
^'•_ ^u A^^ ' wi'^ \. Z' y^^c- ^^^ ^< 




IC) 1915 Henry Mac Nair 



FINDING-MAP OF ROUTES AND DISTRICT MAPS 
Nutr 's refer to pages. 



THE FAVORITE 

MOTOR WAYS 

§r NEW ENGLAND 

Historical and Descriptive 

By 
L. H. BAKER 




With Illustrations, Comprehensive 
Road Maps and Sky- Line Sketches 



New York 

HENRY MacNAIR 

19 15 






Copyright 191S 

by 
L. H. BAKER 



All rights reserved 



>.'- 



JUN I 1915 

©C1.A406076 



KELLOGG 
N. Y. 



PREFACE 

THE purpose of this book is to add to the pleasure 
of automobile touring in New England by 
supplying, in concise form, information in re- 
gard to such points of interest as are met with on 
some of the principal highways of the region. It is 
not intended primarily as a path-finder, as it keeps 
for the most part to main lines of travel, but rather 
aims to answer the numerous questions which con- 
stantly occur to the tourist as to the significance of 
monuments and tablets, the identity of prominent 
buildings, the precise location of historical points, etc. 
If one thing beyond another has been "borne in" 
upon the writer in the preparation of the work, it is 
a revelation of the number of errors which creep into 
print. While many of these errors — quotations 
which do not appear in the originals from which they 
are quoted; pictures which do not show the places 
supposed to be pictured; mistaken references; con- 
flicting dates; erroneous directions as to precise lo- 
cations; history made out of legends and a perversion 
of historical facts — have been found and adjusted, 
it seems almost too much to expect that other mis- 
takes — and perhaps those of even greater import — 
have not been retained or introduced. 

Out of this experience the writer is moved to 
preface his work with the words used by Cotton 
Mather in closing his Magnalia : 

"Reader, Cartegena was of the mind that unto 
those three things which the ancients held impossible, 
there should be added this fourth, to find a book 
Ijrinted without erratas. It seems the hands of 
Briareus and the eyes of Argus will not prevent 
them." 



CONTENTS* 

I The Main Entrance to New England 

from the South 13 

(i) New York to New Haven 14-26 

(2) New Haven to Springfield 27-34 

II The Connecticut Valley and Sunapee 

Lake.. 35 

Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H. 36-47 

III Through the Heart of the Old Bay State. 50 
Springfield to Boston 51-61 

IV The Shore Line 62 

New Haven to New London, Conn. . . . 63-68 

V Through the Narragansett Country to 

Boston 69 

(i) New London to Boston via New- 
port and Taunton 70-85 

(2) Fall River to Boston via Ply- 
mouth 86-99 

VI From Massachusetts Bay to the White 

Hills 100 

(i) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., via 

Concord 102-115 

(2) Boston to North Conway via 

Portsmouth 1 16-133 

VII Through Lower Maine 134 

Portsmouth to Portland and North 

Conway i3S-i43 

VIII Among the Mountains 147 

(i) Plymouth to North Conway. . . 148-157 
(2) North Conway to Plymouth. .. 159-167 

IX The Return from the Hills 169 

(i) North Conway to Portland and 

Portsmouth 170-178 

*For quick reference in locating the various routes and 
maps shown in this volume use Finding-Chart, inside front 
cover. 

5 



6 CONTENTS— Continued 

(2) North Conway to Boston via 

Portsmouth 179-200 

(3) Plymouth to Boston via Con- 

cord 201-216 

X Down the Connecticut 217 

Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, 

Mass 218-228 

XI Toward the Berkshires 229 

Boston to Greenfield v^a Concord, 

Mass 230-242 

XII Over the Mohawk Trail 243 

Greenfield to Springfield via Williams- 
town 244-254 

XIII The Great Post Road ' 255 

(i) Boston to Springfield 256-263 

(2) vSpringfield to New Haven 265-271 

XIV The Berkshires Again 274 

Springfield to Greenfield via Williams- 
town 275-284 

XV In Northern Massachusetts 285 

Greenfield to Boston 286-297 

XVI Through the Old Colony and Beyond . . 298 
(i) Boston to Fall River via Ply- 
mouth 299-309 

( 2 ) B oston to New London, Conn ..31 0-3 2 2 

XVII Along the Sound 323 

(i) New London to New Haven. . .324-328 

(2) New Haven to New York 329-337 

XVIII Western Entrances to New England. .. . 338 
(i) New York to Poughkeepsie and 

the Berkshires 339~"34i 

(2) Albany to the Berkshires and 

Burlington 342-344 

(3) Lake Champlain to the White 

Mountains 345-346 

Recommended Hotels with rates, capacity, 

amusements, etc 9-1 1 

Index of places mentioned in the text 347^352 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 

Pomtoosuc Lake, in the Berkshires 13 

Centre Church, New Haven Green 26 

PhilHps Hall, Yale University Campus 28 

Lake Sunapee and the Granliden 34 

A New England Landscape 50 

An old Oak at the ' ' Wayside Inn " 57 

The Beach and The Mathewson, Narragansett 

Pier 68 

Old Stone Mill at Newport, R. 1 77 

One of Boston's large hotels, The Copley Plaza. . 85 

Plymouth Rock Monument 90 

Old Major John Bradford House 93 

On a Stern and Rock-bound Coast 99 

Golf in the Mountains loi 

Sky-line Sketch of the Sandwich Range. 114 and 203 

The Rocky Shore at Marblehead 117 

Old Witch or Roger Williams House 119 

Tristam Coffin, " Whittier's Schoolmaster" House 128 

Looking North from Ossipee (Sky-line). .131 and 181 

From the Intervale, North Conway (Sky-line).. . 133 

The Wentworth at New Castle, N. H 134 

Mounts Washington and Madison from the Glen 

Road 143 

Crawford Notch from Elephant's Head 146 

The Mount Washington at Bretton Woods 147 

Franconia Mountains from Campton Hills 1 48 and 166 
Franconia Notch and Echo Lake from Artist's 

Bluff 151 

Presidential Range from Bretton Woods. .153 and 161 

Site of the Willey House in 1837 155 

Snowcapped peaks of the Presidential Range. ... 158 

Crawford House and the Notch in 1837 162 

Ascent of Mount Willard by Burro 167 

Dixville Notch and Lake Gloriette 168 

Crossing a Branch of Pine River at Ossipee 178 

Old Chain Bridge at Newburyport 189 

7 



8 ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued 

Page 

The Farragiit at Rye Beach 216 

One of New Hampshire's Giant Elms 217 

The Connecticut River and Mount Holyoke. . . . 228 

The Aspinwall at Lenox, Mass 229 

"Minute-Man " statue of Capt. John Parker .... 232 

Grace Hall, Williams College 246 

Longfellow House, ' ' The Old Clock on the Stairs " 250 

The Great Post Road 255 

Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks in the distance. 264 

Lake Onota at Pittsfield, Mass 271 

The Greylock at Williamstown 274 

The Peaceful Valley of the Hoosic 276 

Lake Sunapee from the Granliden 284 

A distant view of the Berkshire Hills :... 285 

Old Orchard House and School of Philosophy. . . 291 

Scene of the Concord Fight 295 

Home of Harvard's Presidents for 120 years. ... 297 
The Shore and The Griswold, Eastern Point, 

Conn 322 

West Rock at New Haven, Conn 323 

LIST OF MAPS 

See also Finding- Chart, inside front cover 

Exits from New York City toward New England. 1 2 

Road Map of the New Haven District 16-17 

Lower Metropolitan Boston 48-49 

Narrangansett Bay District 80-81 

Quincy, the home of two Presidents 97~3oi 

Upper Metropolitan Boston 11 2-1 13 

Salem and her Landmarks 120-195 

Heart of the White Mountains 144-145 

Portland to Naples via Poland Spring 172 

The Lower Maine Coast 174 

The New Hampshire Coast 186 

Lake Winnepesaukee District 208-209 

Upper Berkshire Region 240-241 

Lower Berkshire Region ' 272-273 



SELECT HOTELS AND INNS 

ON OR NEAR THE ROUTES DESCRIBED 
A dagger (f) in the text indicates that hotel may be found in this list 



Minimum prices are invariably given 

Any criticisms of the service or charges at places mentioned, or suggestion 

for additions to this list will be welcomed by the publisher 



Albany. N. Y., The Ten Eyck 

E. 300. $2; bath, $3- Garage, Grill 
Alton Bay, N. H., Oakbirch Inn. 

A. 35. l3-50-$6; Bath, $s->W 

June 20-Oct. I. Garage, Tennis 
Antrim, N. H., Greystone Lodge 

A. 6s, I3; bath, ^4. June i-Oct. 
Augusta, Me., Augusta House 

A. 150, $3; 75 bath, $4. Garage 
Beach Bluff, Mass., Hotel Preston 

A. 200, $5; bath, $6. Garage, Golf 

June 19-Sept. 10. Tennis, Bathing 
Belgrade Lakes, Me., The Belgrade 

A. 225. S3; bath, $4. 

May 25-Oct. I. Golf, Tennis, Fishing 
Bennington, Vt., Walloomsac Inn 

A. 100, $3 

June-Nov. Golf, Tennis, Garage nr. 
Bethel, Me., Bethel Inn 

A. 30, $3; bath, $4. 
Bethlehem, N. H., The Sinclair 

A. 225, $3-50; bath, $6. Garage 

June 2i-0ct. 5. Golf, Tennis 

The Maplewood 

A. 400, $5; bath, $6 

July i-Oct. I. Golf, Tennis 
Boston, Mass., Copley Plaza. Copley sq. 

E. 500, all bath — single. $3-$S; 
double. $5-18. Grill, Garage nr. 

The Puritan, 390 Commonwealth 

E. 200, $2; sitting room, bedroom, 
bath, $4. Grill, Roof-garden 

Hotel Touraine, Boylston & Tre- 

mont. E. 150, 12.50; bath, $4 

The Bellevue, 17 Beacon st. 

E. 250, $2; bath, $3.50. Grill 
• Hotel Essex, Atlantic ave. & Essex 

E. 350, $1.50; bath, $2.50 

Hotel Lennox, Exeter and Boylston 

E. 250, $2; bath, $3. 

Hotel Somerset, Commonwealth ave. 

E. 300,_$2.5o; bath $3 

Westminster, Copley sq. 

E. 250, Si. so; bath, $3. Roof-g'd'n. 

Vendome, Commonwealth & Dart- 
mouth 

A. 200, $5, all bath, E. in summer 

Commonwealth, opp. State House 

E. 214. $1; bath. Si. so 

American Rathskeller 

Washington & Hanover sts. 
Brandon, Vt.. Brandon Inn 

A. 100, S3-50; bath, $4-00. Gar. 
Bretton Woods, N. H., The Mount 
Washington. July 8-Oct. 15 

A. 550, S7; bath, $S 

Garage, Golf, Tennis 

The Mount Pleasant. June i6-0ct. i 

A. 27s, $6; bath, $7- Golf, Tennis 



Bridgeport Conn., The Stratfield 

E. 275, |i; bath. Si. 50 
Briarcliff Manor, N. Y., Briarcliff 

Lodge. A. 200, apply. 

May 8-Nov. Garage, Golf, Tennis 
Bronxville, N. Y., The Gramatan 

A. 260, S4; bath, $5. Grill, Garage, 
Golf, Tennis 
Brookline, Mass., The Beaconsfield 

A. 175. all bath, Ss- Garage, Tennis 
Brunswick, Me., Hotel Eagle 

A. 60, 52. 50; bath, $3 
Burlington, Vt., Hotel Vermont 

A. 200, S4; bath, $5. Roof-garden 

Van Ness House 

A. 125. $4; bath, $5 

June i-Oct. 15. Roof-garden, Grill 
Chatham, Mass., The Mattaquason 

A. 84, S4. June 26-Sept. 8. Golf, 
Tennis, Bathing 
Claremont, N. H., Hotel Moody 

A. 100, $3; bath, S3-50. Golf, 
Tennis, Garage nr. 
Concord, Mass., Colonial Inn 

A. 40. S2,5o; bath, $3-50. Garage 
nr.. Grill. Tennis 
Concord. N. H.. Eagle Hotel 

A. 100, S3-S0; bath, $5. Garage nr. 
Crawford Notch, N. H., Crawford 
House 

A. 300, S4-50; bath $6 

June 22-Oct. 4. Garage, Golf, Ten- 
nis, Burro Mountain Climbing 
Danbury. Conn.. The Green 

E. 150, Si; bath. Si. 50. Grill, 
Garage nr. Grill, Golf 
Danville, Vt., Thurber's 

A. 20, $2 
Dixville Notch, N. H., The Balsams, 

A. 125, $5; bath, S9. Golf, Tennis. 
All conveniences. June 26-Oct. 11. 
Fabyan's Fabyan House 

A. 300, S4.S0; bath, S6. June is-Oct.i 
Fairhaven, Mass., Tabitha Inn 

A. SO. $4; bath, $5. May is-Oct. 15 
Fairlee, Vt., Kaulin (family) 

A. 35. $3; bath, S3.50-S5 

June 24-Sept. 15. Golf, Tennis 
Falmouth, Mass., The Sippewisset 

A. 150, $5. June lO-Sept. Golf, 
Boating, Fishing, Bathing 

Terrace Gables, May 28-Sept. 
A. 100, S3S0; bath SS- 
Flume House, N. H., Flume House 

E. 100. $2; bath. S2.50 

May 30-Oct. 20 
Gardner. Mass., Windsor Hotel 

A. 60, $3; E. $1.50 



10 



LIST OF HOTELS— Continued 



Gloucester, Mass., The Moorland 
(Bass Rocks) June 12-Sept. 25 
A. 250. $3-50 
Gorham, N. H., Mt. Madison Ho. 
A. 100, $3; bath, $4. Garage, 
Tennis, Mountain Climbing 
Grand Isle, Vt.. Island Villa 
Great Barrington, Mass. 

Berkshire Inn. May 26-Nov. i 
A. 130, I4; bath, $s-$6 

Golf. Tennis, Garage nr. 
Greenfield, Mass.. The Weldon Hotel 
A. 125, $3-$S; E. $i-$3. Grill, 
Garage, Golf, Tennis 
Greenwich, Conn., The Edgewood 
A. 250, $5; bath, $6 
May 29-Oct. Golf, Tennis 
Groton, Conn., The Griswold (Eastern 
Point). A. 500, Is, bath I7 
June i6-Sept. 15. Garage, i8-h. 
Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing 
Hanover, N. H., The Hanover Inn 

A. 75. $3; bath, $4 
Harrison, Me., Summit Springs Hotel 
A. 60, $2. June 30-Sept. 10. Golf. 
Tennis, Fishing 
Hartford, Conn., Allyn House 

E. ISO, I1.50; bath, $2.50. Grill 
Hotel Bond and Annex 
E. 300, $i-$3; bath, $2-$3. Grill 
Heublein Hotel 

E. 100, I1.50; bath, $2.50. Grill 
Holderness, N. H., Asquam House 

A. 150, $3] bath, I4 
Intervale, N. H., Intervale House 
A. ISO, $3-So; bath, $5 
June 20-Oct. 15. Garage, Golf 
Ipswich, Mass., Agawam House 

A. so, $2.50; bath, 13-50. Garage, 
Grill, Boating 
Jackson, N. H., Wentworth Hall 
A. 250, $5; bath, 16 
June 2S-0ct. i 
Jefferson, N. H., The Waumbek 
A. 500, $5; bath, I7 
June 20-Sept. 20. Golf, Tennis 
Keene, N. H., Cheshire House 

A. 200, $3; bath, $3-50. Garage nr. 
Kennebunkport, Me., Breakwater 

Court. A. 250, $s; bath, $7. 
Kineo, Me., New Mt. Kineo House 
A. 600, I4; bath, $6 
June 26-Sept. 27. Golf, Tennis, 
Boating, Fishing 
Lake Dunmore, Vt., Lake Dunmore 
Hotel. June is-Sept. 15 
A. 100, S3; bath, $4 
Lake Sunapee, N. H., The Granliden 
A. 200, $5; bath, $6. June i6-0ct. i 
Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, 
Fishing 
Lakeville, Conn., Wononsco Hou.se 
A. 75. 12.50; bath, $300. Boating, 
Fishing, Ciarage, GoU, Tennis 
Lee, Mass., Greenock Inn 

A. 100, I2.50; bath, $3.50. Garage, 
Golf, Tennis 



Lenox, Mass., The Aspinwall 

A. 300, $5; bath, $6 

June 19-Oct. 20. Grill, Garage, 
3 Golf Courses, Tennis 

Curtis Hotel. Apr. 24-Nov. i 

A. ISO, $4\ bath, $6. Garage, Golf, 
Tennis 
Lyme, Conn., Old Lyme Inn 

A, 45. $2.50 

May i-Nov. i. Tennis, Boating 
Magnolia, Mass., The Oceanside 

A. 515, $5; bath, $6 

June 15-Sept. 20. Bathing-Boating 
Manchester, Vt., The Equinox 

A. 250, $5; bath, $6 

June 15-Oct. 15. Ekwanok Golf 
Club, Tennis, Fishing 

MacNaughton's 

A. 25, $4. May i-Nov. i 
Mansfield, Mass., The Tavern 

A._ so, $4; bath. Is 
Marion, Mass., The Sippican 

A. 100, I4; bath. Is. June-Sept. 
Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating 
Millbrook, N. Y., Millbrook Inn 

A. 40, I4; bath, 16. Mayi2-Nov. i 
Garage, Golf, Tennis 
Montreal, Can., The Windsor Hotel 

E. 600, I2; bath, I3. Garage, Grill 
Narragansett Pier, R. I., The Ma- 
thewson. June 22-Sept. 15 

A. 290, I4; bath, 16. Grill, Garage, 
Golf, Tennis, Boating, Bathing 

The Imperial. June 15-Sept. 25 

A. 200, $5; bath, 16. Garage, Golf, 
Tennis 

The Gladstone. June-Sept. 

A. 250, I4; bath, 16. Grill, Garage, 
Golf, Tennis 
Natick, Mass., Old Natick Inn 

A. 18, I3; bath, I4; double, I7 
Newburyport, Mass., The Wolfe 
Tavern. Grill, (jarage. Boating 

E. 50, |i; bath, I2; double, I3 
Newcastle, N. H., The Wentworth 

A. 500, Is; bath, 16 

June 26-Sept. 15. Golf, Tennis, 
Boating, Hot and Cold Sea- Water 
Baths 
New Haven, Conn., Hotel Taft 

E. 350, I1.50; bath, I2.50. Grill 
New London, Conn, (see also Groton) 

The Mohican 

E. 300, I1.50; bath, I2.50 
Newport, N. H., Newport House 

A. 50, I3; bath. I3.50. Grill 
Newport, R. I., New Cliffs Hotel 

A. 120, I4; bath. Is. June-Sept. 

Muenchener-King Cottages 

A. 100, I4; bath. Is 
Northampton, Mass., Draper Hotel 

E. 100, li; bath, I2. Grill, Garage 
North Conway, N. H., The Kearsarge 

A. 100, I3.S0; bath, I5-I6 

June 2S-Sept. 30. Garage, Golf, 
Tennis, Fishing, Dancing 
Northfield,Mass.,TheNorthfield A.iio, 

I3; bath, I4 Garage, Golf, Tennis 



LIST OF HOTELS— Continued 



11 



North Woodstock, N. H., Deer Park 
Hotel. June i-Oot. lo 
A. 20o.»$4: bath. $5 
Ogunquit, Me., Sparhawk Hall 

A. 250, $5; bath, $7 
Pittsfield, Mass., The Maplewood 
A. 17s. S4; bath, $6. May 27-Nov. i 

Golf, Tennis at Country Club 
The Wendell 

E. 250, $1.50; bath, $2.50 
Plymouth, Mass., Hotel Pilgrim 
E. 85. $2; bath, double, $5 
June is-Sept. 15. Gar., Golf, Tennis 
Poland Spring, Me., Poland Spring 
House. Jan. i-Oct. 15 
A. 5S0, $6; bath, I7. Golf, Tennis 
Mansion House A. 150, $4; bath, $5 
Portland, Me., The Lafayette 

A. 200, $4; bath, $5-$6. Garage nr. 
Portsmouth, N. H. (see Newcastle), 
Rockingham Hotel 
A. no, $4; bath. $5. Grill, Golf 
Profile House, N. H., Profile House 
and Cottages. July i-Oct. i 
A. SCO, $6; bath, I7. Garage, Boat- 
ing, Fishing, Golf, Tennis 
Prout's Neck, Me., The Checkley 
A. 200, $3; bath, $4.50 
June 20-Sept. 20. Golf, Tennis, 
Bathing. Boating 
Rangeley, Me., Rangeley Lake 
House. June i-Oct. i 
A. 200, $5; bath, $6. Garage nr. 
Golf, Tennis, Fishing 
Ripton. Vt., Bread Loaf Inn 

A. ISC $.3-$6. June i6-0ct. 20 
Rockport, Ma.ss., Turk's Head Inn 
A. 100, $3.50; bath, $5 
June 23-Sept. 10. Golf, Tennis, 
Boating. Bathing 
Rockland, Me.. The Sam-0-Set 
A. 200. $5; bath, $12 up double 
June 17-Sept. 9. Garage, Golf. 
Tennis, Boating, Bathing 
Rutland, Vt., The Berwick 

A. 100, $1; bath, $1.50; E. $3 
Rye Beach, N. H., Farragut House 
A. 200, $6; bath. $7. June 17-Sept. 8 
Garage, Golf, Bathing, Boating 
Saybrook, Conn., Fenwick Hall 

A. 150, $3; bath, $5. June 21-Sept.iS 
Shippan Point, Conn., Hotel Manor 
A. 67, $3. 50; bath, $5 
June 15-Sept. 15. Garage, Golf, 
Tennis, Boating, Bathing 
Short Beach, Conn., The Arrowhead 
A. 23, $2.50. Golf, Tennis, Boat- 
ing, Bathing 
Soo Nipi Park Lodge. June 22-Sept.20, 
A. 100, $4; bath, $5 Garage, Golf, 
Tennis, Boating 
Sound Beach, Conn., Ye Olde Green- 
wich Inn. May 30-Oct. i. 
A. 123, $4; double, with bath, |io 
Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, 
Southboro, Mass., SouthVioro Arms 
A. 12. S6: bath, dnuble, E. $4 
Apr. 15-Dec. 10. Dinner |i.so 



South Williamstown, Idlewild Inn 

A. TOO, $3-50; bath, $5 

May 28-Nov. I 
Springfield, Mass., The Kimball 

E. 350, I1.50; bath, I2. Grill 

The Worthy 

E. 250. $1.50; bath, $2. Grill 
Springfield, Vt., The Adnabrown 

A. 40, $2. 50; bath, $3-50. Tennis 
Stamford, Conn., The Davenport 

E. 100, $1; bath. I1.50 
Stockbridge, Mass., Red Lion Inn 

A. 200, apply. Apr. 15-Dec. i 
Sudbury, Mass., Longfellow's Way- 
side Inn. A. 15, $3.50. Garage. 
Special Dinners 
Sudbury, Vt., Hyde Manor 

A. 100, $4 

June i-Oct. I. Garage, Tennis 
Swampscott. Mass.. New Ocean 
House. June 21-Sept. 10. 

A. 27s. $5; bath, $7- Garage. Golf, 
Tennis, Boating, Bathing 
Templeton, Mass., Templeton Inn 

A. 108, I3; bath, $4 

May 28-Oct. 10. Garage, Tennis 
Twin Mtn. House, Twin Mtn. Ho. 

June 28-Oct. I. A. ISO, $4; bath Is 
Walpole, N. H., Walpole Inn 

A. 30, I4; bath, $5. May 28-Nov. i 
Watch Hill, R. I., Ocean House 

A. 400, $5', bath, $6 

June is-Sept. 15. Garage, Go'f, 
Tennis, Bathing, Fishing, Boating 

Watch Hill House 

A. 17s. $5; bath, double. $10 

June 2-Sept. 15. Garage, Golf. Ten 
nis. Bathing, Boating 

The Colonial. A. 100, I4 
Waterbury, Conn.. The Elton 

A. ISO. $3.50. E., Ii.so 
Waterville, Me.. Hotel Elmwood 

A. 80, $3; bath, $4. Garage, Golf 
Whitefield, N. H., Mountain View 
House. June is-Oct. 10 

A. 150. $4; bath $5 
White Plains, N. Y., Gedney Farms 

Hotel. A. 200, $4; bath. $6. 
Garage, Golf, Tennis 
White River Jet., Vt., White River 
Tavern. A. 40, $3; bath, $3-50 
Garage, Golf. Tennis 
Williamstown, Mass., The Greylock 

A. 150, $4; bath. Is 

May I. -Nov. i. Grill, Garage, 
Golf, Tennis, Swimming Pool 
Winthrop, Mass., Cottage Park 

Hotel. A. 125, I3; bath 4 
Woodstock, Vt., Woodstock Inn 

A. 90, Is; bath 16 
Worcester, Mass., The Bancroft 

E. 300, I1.50; bath, I2. Grill, 
Golf, Tennis, Roof-garden 
York ClifTs, Me., Passaronaway Inn 

A. 150. I4.50; bath, 16 

June 20-Sept. I. Golf, Tennis 




lO-i 



5- 



Copyright, 1915, Henry MacNair 

Exits from New York 




I 

The Main Entrance to New England from 

the South* 

(1) New York to New Haven, 74.2 Miles 

This outlet from New York should furnish an 
auspicious beginning for a tour of the New England 
States. 

The face of the country is pleasant and the route 
runs sufficiently near the shore line to afford fre- 
quent views over Long Island Sound. 

The roads themselves are of the first grade through- 
out, and those which run through the cities will be 
found to compare most favorably with the streets of 
the cities which will be met with farther east. 

From New Rochelle, the route follows pretty closely 
the line of the old stage route between New York 
and Boston, which started about the time of the 
Revolution. 



*The entrance to New England from New York and Hudson 
River points to the Berkshires is briefly outlined in Chapter 
XVIII, pages 338-346. 

13 



14 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



(I) New York City to New Haven, Conn., 74.2 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 329-37 
See map, page 12 

o. New York. Fifth avenue and Central Park at 
59th street. Leaving The Plaza, with its bronze 
equestrian statue of General Sherman, the route 
runs northwest through the winding driveways of 
Central Park, passing to the left of the "Mall" and 
curving right at Webster's statue, shortly comes 
in sight of the reservoirs. 

2.9 Turning sharply to the left at a poHce signal box 
the run continues up Seventh avenue and at 

4.6 145th street, turns to the right and crosses the 
Harlem River. 

5.2 At the subway kiosk, turn to the left on Mott 
avenue, continuirg almost straight ahead into the 
Grand boulevard or Concourse, one of the finest 
driveways in the metropolis. The statue on the 
left at this point is that of General Franz Siegel. 

9.5 Turning to the right on Fordham road, the route 
enters Bronx Park and crosses Bronx River. 

Just beyond this turn on the Concourse is the 

"Pee Cottage," where the eccentric genius lived. 

Bronx Park contains besides the Zoological 

gardens which the route passes, the Botanical 

gardens and the old Lorillard mansion. 

We are now on Pelham parkway, which passes 
through the embryotic "Pelham Park," curving 
to the left and crossing Eastchester Bay. The 
route continues into the "Shore road" curving 
to the left at its end, into Echo avenue. 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 15 

17.5 At the end of Echo avenue the route turns to 
the right at a hotel on the main street of 

fNew Rochelle. The business center of the city 
is at the left. 

Just after entering Main street on the left in a 
reverse fork of the roads, is a tablet "erected to 
indicate the Old Post Road, extending from New 
York to Boston, originally an Indian Trail, opened 
by royal commission in 1672. As the road to 
New England, it was known in Colonial days as 
the King's Highway. Over this road Paul Revere 
carried the news of the battle of Lexington. Its 
dust was hallowed by the tread of patriots' feet all 
through the war of the Revolution." 

This inscription does not say on what part of 
the Post Road Revere carried the news of Lexing- 
ton, but it was not at this end. Revere undoubtedly 
did pass over this portion of the road on many 
occasions, before the Revolution and after, but not 
with the first news of the opening of hostilities. 

This is a region of new houses, and such of the 
old landmarks as remain are rapidly giving place 
to residences of modern construction. The coun- 
try is rolling, the road passing with easy grades 
from one hill to another for many miles. 

1 9. 1 Running through Larchmont which was named 
from a row of larch trees planted to screen one of 
the early mansions, the road passes over the shoul- 
der of Heathcote Hill (at the left), the scene of a 
Revolutionary engagement, but now covered with 
modern houses. 



J 6 To Pittsfield 



To Pittsfield 




To Hartford 



To Hartford 



17 



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Fall 



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Durham Center. 




^North Guilfor^t 



JjNorthJBrantord 




Giiilfor 

Halleck 
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1915 Henry Mac Ndir 



E NEW HAVEN DISTRICT 



18 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

This section is intimately connected with the 
Hfe of James Fenimore Cooper, who married one 
of the daughters of Heathcote Hall and lived for 
some time in this vicinity. In the house which 
he built on a shoulder of the hill he began his 
literary career, and the scene of "The Spy" is laid 
in this vicinity. Nothing remains that is closely 
connected with his life here unless it be a little house 
in which he lived for a short time immediately 
after his marriage, and this, if standing, is so 
changed as to bear no resemblance to its original 
shape. 
20. 2 Mamaroneck. At the entrance to this village, 
on the right, is the chimney of the Disbrow house 
which was erected in 1677, and in which Harvey 
Birch, the hero of Cooper's tale of ''The Spy", was 
supposed to have been secreted. 

This section was, during the greater part of the 
Revolution, common or neutral ground, and was 
frequently visited by portions of both the contend- 
ing armies. 

22.5 Beyond Mamaroneck, on the right, with tall 
white columns, is the Jay mansion where John Jay, 
the statesman and jurist, spent his boyhood. The 
original house was one room deep and eighty feet 
long. 

23.6 On the left, at the top of a hill are the large 
buildings and extensive grotmds of an Old Ladies' 
Home. 

24.2 Rye. Near the center of the town, a little 
back from the road on the right, is Christ's (Epis- 
copal) Church. The original organization of this 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 19 

church dates from 1695, and among its valued 
possessions are a silver chalice and chalice cover 
presented to the church by Queen Anne. James 
Fenimore Cooper attended this church during his 
residence in the vicinity. 
24.5 A little beyond, as the route bears to the right 
at the flagpole (crossing the trolley Hne diagonally) 
is the Public Library of brick in Colonial style, 
and the Municipal Hall, which was a tavern as 
early as 1731, and entertained Washington, La- 
fayette, and other men of note. 

26.1 Upon entering Porchester the route bears 
to the left and runs directly through the town. 

27.2 Crossing Byram River which here forms the 
boundary between New York and Connecticut, 
the route enters New England. It is related that 
this stream received its name from an Indian village 
which was located on its banks and was called 
Buy rum village, on account of its chief trade. 

On the left (28.), at the top of a rise, is Edge wood Gate- 
way, entrance to the Edgewood Hotel. 

t Greenwich, Conn. The route does not pass 
through the business center, which extends down 
the hill at the right. On the ridge are attractive 
churches and residences. 

29.2 On the left, as Greenwich avenue (main street) 
comes in, is the Presbyterian church and beyond 
is a large Congregational church with the Soldiers* 
monument before it. Across the road from this 
is the entrance to Millbank, once the estate of 
"Boss" Tweed. 

29.5 It is said that the Congregational church is 



20 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

erected on the highest land which occurs so near 
the sea at any point on the coast between Maine 
and Florida, except at Navesink Highlands. 

29.8 A little further on, at the right, is the magnif- 
icent property of the Episcopal church and directly 
opposite, with cannon before it, is **Putnam Cot- 
tage" formerly the Knapp Tavern, maintained as a 
Putnam memorial and open to visitors at certain 
times. There seems to be a conflict of opinion as 
to whether this is the house where General Israel 
Putnam was stopping at the time of his famous 
ride down the cliffs. The room in which he was 
shaving when surprised by the British soldiers is 
shown, but not only is the authenticity of this part 
of the story doubted, but another house is said to 
have been his dwelling place at the time of the 
raid. There can be no doubt, however, that this 
is a fine old house with unusually large hinges to 
swing the Dutch (halved) front door and an ex- 
cellent full length (modern) painting of General 
Putnam. 

Just beyond this interesting house, on the brow 
of the cHif is the little Putnam Hill Park contain- 
ing a monument marking the spot "where on 
Feb. 26, 1779, Gen. Israel Putnam, cut off from 
his soldiers and pursued by British cavalry galloped 
down this rocky steep and escaped, daring to lead 
where not one of many hundred foes dared to 
follow." A modern flight of steps has been cut 
down the face of the cliff and the location of the 
old steps which were cut or built for the benefit 
of churchgoers, is not precisely known. It is not 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 21 

generally considered to-day, however, that Putnam 
rode down the old steps, but that he descended by 
a cow-path which cut off the curves in the road 
which then ran along the top of the cliff and de- 
scended in a sort of S. The road has been filled 
at this point so that the present sheer descent is 
not much more than half what it was when Putnam 
took his ride. 

The Mianus River is crossed at the village of 
the same name and the road soon reaches 

34.6 fStamford (Pop. 25,000). This is a busy city 
with large manufactories of locks, etc. The route 
does not pass through the business streets, but 
runs straight through the open square with the 
City Hall on the right, and follows the trolley line 
to Darien. 

36.2 Crossing Noroton River, the route passes 
through the village of the same name. Here is 
located the Connecticut Soldiers' Home, which, 
however, is not in sight from the road. 

39.1 At Darien the road passes under the railroad 
and continues on the main thoroughfare. 

On the site of the present, square-towered 
Congregational church stood a church where those 
attending service on July 22, 1781 were, with their 
pastor, taken prisoners by a party of tories. 

42.4 Norwalk. At the entrance to this town on 
the right, is the Hospital. At the foot of the hill, on 
the left, is the 

42.6 Armory and on the right a drinking fountain 
erected in memory of Nathan Hale. On one side are 



22 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

inscribed the words ** The path of duty was the way 
to Glory." The bronze tablet on the other side 
was "given by the children of the town in loving 
memory of him whose last words were *I only regret 
that I have but one life to lose for my country.'" 
The route now follows the main trolley line with 
many curves and grades through the town, and 
continues with the line to Bridgeport. At the 
flagpole on the left is the library. 

43. A little beyond on the left, as the route curves 
to the right, is the old Norwalk Hotel, which was 
an hostelry in the time of the Revolution and an 
important tavern in the days of the stage-coach. 
Here the road crosses Norwalk River and ascends 
a steep grade. 

43.4 Part way up the hill, on the right, is the 
Town Hall, a red brick building which might well 
be either an old church or schoolhouse rather than 
what it really is. 

Descending a grade, the road crosses Saugatuck 
River into the village of 

46.3 Westport. On the left, as a branch trolley 
line leaves the road, is the old stage tavern which 
was a relay house in coaching days. 

Over at the right is Green's Farms church, 
and on the left by the roadside, Birge's wells. 

Crossing a small river, the road enters the village 
of Southport. 

50.3 On the right, just beyond a turnout of the 
trolley line and opposite the Pequot poultry farm, 
is a monument marking the place where the Pequot 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 23 

War was ended, in 1637. The Indians having 
been nearly annihilated at their stronghold on the 
Mystic hills, east of New London, the remnant 
was pursued to this spot where it was overtaken 
and destroyed. 

52.1 Fairfield. As the route turns to the right, 
near the station, the Memorial Library, is on the 
left. 
52.3 At the next corner, on the left, is a stone set 
"By David Barlow the cidevant farmer, 1791"; 
"reset by H. J. Beers, July 4, 1855." 

In front of the Town Hall, on the right, is a 
boulder monument commemorating the founda- 
tion of the town in 1639 and its burning by the 
British, July 8, 1779. In this British attack, 218 
buildings were destroyed, so that few, if any, of the 
houses of that day are now standing. 

Here in 1775 John Hancock, who was fleeing 
from British displeasure, was married to Dorothy 
Quincy, who came here from Boston for the purpose. 
At the extremity of the town the old Post Road 
leaves at the left to encircle the broad mouth of the 
Pequonnock River on which is located the city of 

t Bridgeport (Pop. 102,000). This place has no 
Colonial history of its own, having beeen created 
a town long after the Revolution. There is, how- 
ever, on the route one relic of ancient days in the 
shape of an old mile-post bearing the inscription 
XXM standing by the road on the right at the 

to corner of Brewster street, a little after the 
NH road enters the outskirts of the city. 

Beyond this on the right is the Protestant Orphan 



24 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Asylum, and on the left the Burroughs Home for 
Widows. 

Bridgeport is one of the busiest cities in New 
England, being the seat of the manufacture of 
articles of almost every description including 
pianos, sewing machines, silk, toys, cartridges, 
cutlery, paper, typewriters, needles, valves, brass 
goods, chains, automobiles, etc. 

Besides this it is the home of Barnum^s Circus, 
the winter quarters of which are near at hand as 
the road passes under the railroad. 
55. The route follows the left branch of ■ the trolley 
line to the center of the city. 

55.7 Upon making a turn to the right, the house 
on the right with the figure of a sea-god before it, 
is one of the houses which P. T. Barnum occupied. 

56.3 At a prominent cross street, St. John's 
Episcopal Church is on the left and a beautiful 
fountain, erected as a memorial to Nathaniel 
Wheeler, the father of the Wheeler & Wilson Sew- 
ing Machine, is on the right. 

56.8 Continuing straight through the city on Fair- 
field avenue, the route crosses Main street (the 
Stratfield Hotel being one block to the left), passes 
beneath the railroad at the station, and crossing 
the Pequonnock River and an arm of the 
harbor, bears to the left through Connecticut 
avenue. 

Stratford is one of the old towns of Connecticut, 
having been settled in 1639, and is the type of many 
New England towns with its broad main streets 
shaded by rows of great elms. 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 25 

60.3 The route turns to the left on Main street 

and (60.6) to the right with a branch trolley line. 

Crossing the Housatonic River, which has its 

source in the Berkshire Hills near Pittsfield, Mass., 

the route enters 

Milford. On the left is a flagpole and a boulder 
which is inscribed "Liberty, 1766." It has been 
said that "there is no fact or legend connecting 
the patriots with the rock" but that it was popu- 
larly known as "Hog Rock, " from the legend con- 
tained in the following ancient stanza which is given 
by Stephen Jenkins in "The Old Boston Post Road". 
" Once four young men upon ye rock 
Sate down at shuffle board one daye; 
When ye Deuill appearde in shape of a hogg, 
And frightened ym so they scampered awaye 
And left Olde Nick to finish ye playe." 

Milford furnished one of the many hiding places 
of the regicide judges of King Charles I. 

The Memorial bridge, erected to commemorate 
the 250th anniversary of the settlement of the town 
and located only a few steps off the main route, 
as it turns to the left, is unique and worthy of 
inspection. 
65.2 The route turns to the left with the trolley 
line in the center of the town, and passing under 
the railroad bears to the right and follows the 
direct road to 
72.6 t New Haven (Pop. 133,600). At the entrance 
to the city the road crosses West River bridge, 
which was the scene of an engagement in the 
Revolution. 

Here it bears to the left on Davenport avenue 



26 



FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



and near the end of the avenue passes the hospital, 
on the right. 

73.8 Opposite the hospital, the route turns to the left 
on York street and upon reaching Chapel street, 
turns to the right. 

This is the largest city in Connecticut and for- 
merly divided with Hartford the honors of the Capital. 

It is the seat of large manufactories of a great 
variety of products and is the home of Yale University 
which occupies the center of the city. The prin- 
cipal buildings of the college are on the left as the 
route passes through Chapel street. 

Opposite Vanderbilt 
Hall, on Chapel street, 
is the house which was 
built in 1789 by Roger 
Sherman, a signer of the 
Declaration of Indepen- 
dence and the first Mayor 
of New Haven. 
74.2 On the left is the 
Green, at the center of 
the city, facing which is 
the skyscraping Hotel 
Taft. 

The map on pages 16-17, 
shows in detail the various 
routes into and out of New 
Haven. 

Continued to Springfield 
on next page. 

Continued to New London 
on page 62. Centre Church 




MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 27 

(2) New Haven to Springfield, 63.6 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on page 265 
A map of New Haven district is on pages 16-17 

From New Haven to Springfield, little introduc- 
tion is necessary. If one is traveling north from New 
Haven this is the most approved way of going. 

The road is pleasant, but in a very different way 
from that over which we have come from New York. 
There are no frequent villas along the road as there 
were in the suburbs of the great city ; there are no views 
of the Sound or of the sea; but merely an excellent road 
through the country, at first in the flat bottom of a 
wide valley, then over rolling hills and finally on the 
elevated bank of the Connecticut River. 

After getting fairly out of New Haven, the route is 
well nigh unmistakable except in passing through the 
cities of Meriden and Hartford. 



74.2 Leaving Chapel street the route runs north 
on Temple street, which bisects the historic Green. 

Here Benedict Arnold, who was a druggist and 
bookseller of the town, drew up his little company 
and demanded the keys of the powder house when 
the news of the battle of Lexington came. Here 
a patriotic band of Yale students was reviewed 
by Washington on his way to take command of the 
army at Cambridge. 

On the left are the three churches which give the 
street its name. Trinity, Centre and United. 

Centre church which was erected in 18 14, is 
built over a part of the old burying ground. Be- 
neath the church is a crypt in which stand 140 
tombstones all bearing dates prior to 1779. 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 29 

Behind the church are the original gravestone 
and a more modern monument to John Dixwell, 
one of the regicide judges of Charles I. The old 
stone bore the inscription, "J. D. Esq. Deceased 
March ye i8th in ye 82d year of his age i68f." 

On the back walls of the church are tablets to 
Theophilus Eaton, the first Governor of New Haven 
Colony and to Stephen Goodyear, the first Deputy 
Governor. 

United church at the corner of Elm street, was 
erected in 1815. From this point, on Elm street 
at the right of Temple is the Free Public Library 
and the Court House. At the left of Temple street 
are two Colonial houses. The first is the Pierpont 
house, erected in 1767, and now the home of Rev. 
Anson Phelps Stokes. The other house, of about 
the same age, is now the home of the Graduates' 
Club. 

Continuing on Temple street, beyond the Library 
is the Parish house of Centre church. In the 
house at the left on the second corner above 
(Grove street), lived Noah Webster. 

Turning to the right on Trumbull, or any parallel 
street the route reaches State street, on which 
it turns to to the left. 

At a small bridge over Mill River is the best 
view of East Rock, with its monument to the 
soldiers of three wars. 

Beneath the bridge which stood here in 1660 
the regicides are said to have hidden as their 
pursuers crossed above. 



30 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

76.5 A little beyond the car barns the route turns 
to the right with a branch trolley line over the 
railroad. 

77. Crossing the Quinnipiac River and meadows 
the route enters upon a level run hardly broken 
for fifteen miles. Passing through the village 
of Montowese, the road soon reaches 

82.6 North Haven. Here, on the right, is an 
old cemetery located, rather unusually, on what 
appears to be a part of the village green. 

On the plains beyond there was formerly a line 
of large Colonial houses at the left of the road. 
These have now disappeared save one, a brick 
structure, which bears the date 1759. The loca- 
tion of this old residence and of those which have 
gone makes it evident that this was one of the main 
roads in Colonial times, though the stage routes 
between New Haven and Hartford ran both far- 
ther toward the east and the west, the main turn- 
pike following the west side of the Quinnipiac. 

Ahead on the left the Hanging Hills of Meriden 
are now seen, rising to the elevation of 1,000 feet. 

87.7 Upon reaching Wallingford the route does not 
pass through the business center of the town, this 
being located on the ridge at the right. 

90.8 Continuing across "the plains" over what was 
a few years ago a road deep in sand, the route turns 
sharply beneath the railroad and joining the old 
Turnpike, passes through the village of Tracy 
(Yalesville station) which is on the outskirts of 

94. t Meriden (Pop. 27,000). Entering the city on 
Cook avenue the route turns to the right at the 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 31 

end of the avenue, on Main street, and bears to the 
left, before reaching the station, on Colony street. 

This is called "Silver City" on account of the 
great amount of silver-plated ware manufactured 
here. 

A little beyond the center of the city the Connect- 
icut Reform School is on the ridge at the left. 
94.8 Do not turn to the right with the trolley line, 
but cross the railroad just beyond. 

On the right is Mt. Lamentation, about 1,000 
feet high, which is said to have received its name 
from the wailing or lamentation of a party search- 
ing for one who had become lost on the mountain. 
At the left is seen the city of New Britain, about 
four miles distant. 
100. Berlin. This was the home of the tin-peddler 
business. Tinware was manufactured here as 
early as 1740 and here, after the Revolution the 
Yankee peddlers obtained their stock which they 
carried throughout the Eastern states, at first on 
horseback and then in gaily painted carts. From 
Berlin the road follows a rolling turnpike to 
no. fHartford (Pop. 99,000). This is the capital 
city of Connecticut, and the home of many large 
insurance companies. Though situated forty miles 
above the mouth of the Connecticut River, it was 
formerly something of a port, with a goodly num- 
ber of vessels engaged in the West Indian trade. 

Upon entering the city the route passes the 
Hospital on the left. 

A little beyond this, opposite a church with a 
clock, a branch trolley line leaves to the right. 



32 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

A short distance down this side street is the stone 
marking the site of the Charter Oak. 

When crossing the bridge over the Httle Park 
River, the Capitol, located in the attractive Bush- 
nell Park, is seen at the left. 

Immediately beyond, on the right is the City 
Hall, the Morgan Art Memorial and the adjoining 
Wadsworth Atheneum, which includes the Public 
Library. In front of these buildings is a statue 
of the patriot Nathan Hale. 

The Atheneum stands on the site of the home 
of Colonel Wadsworth, a trusted friend of Wash- 
ington. Here Washington met the French Com- 
mander Count de Rochambeau in 1781, and dis- 
cussed with him plans for the Yorktown campaign. 

Among Hartford's leading hotels are The Bond and 
AUyn House. 

1 1 1.3 Turning to the right in the center of the city 

at the old State House, the route passes the post 

office and curves along the Connecticut River. 

112. From the bridge over the Connecticut, erected 
by a corporation of several towns, the plant of the 
Colts Arms Manufacturing Company is seen down- 
stream. Up-stream the view extends to the hills 
near Springfield, and behind is the Keney Memorial 
Tower. 

113. At East Hartford the route enters upon a 
remarkable series of village streets, such as is met 
with nowhere outside of New England. 

1 1 7. 1 South Windsor. This was a depot for pris- 
oners in the Revolution. The lines of ancient 
elms were planted by British and Hessian captives 
under the direction of Lafayette. 



MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 33 

1 18.5 East Windsor Hill. Near the old cemetery 
on the left was the birthplace of Jonathan Edwards. 
A stone to the memory of his father, Rev. Timothy 
Edwards, is in the cemetery. 

119. A little beyond this, on the left, is a prominent 
white house with a Colonial doorway. This is 
the Grant house, an ancestral home of the family 
from which descended Ulysses S. Grant. 

iig.2 On the left are the old brick buildings which 
formerly housed the Connecticut (now Hartford) 
Theological Seminary. One of the buildings bears 
the inscription "Oraculum, University of Benev- 
olence." 

The road is lined by extensive tobacco farms. 

124.8 Beyond Warehouse Point the road approaches 
the river near the railroad bridge, then ascends 
the ridge which it follows through Enfield and 
Longmeadow. 

128.5 At Enfield is a broad view on each side of 
the ridge. The Shaker Village' Hes in the valley 
at the right and the extensive powder mills at 
Hazardville are on the right about two miles from 
the route. 

132.2 Passing, on the left, Conchusett farm, the 
road enters Massachusetts at State Line Park. 

134. Longmeadow. The bell in the church on the 
green has an unusual history. It was cast by Paul 
Revere in 18 10, was cracked in celebrating the close 
of the War of 18 12, and recast by Revere. This is 
probably the only bell in existence which was twice 
cast by the firm during the lifetime of Paul Revere, 



34 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Richard Salter Storrs was for many years the 
pastor of this church. 

134.2 At the end of the main village, on the left, 
with a brown mile-stone before it, is the Ely 
mansion, where lived Eleazer Williams, who is 
supposed to have been the lost Dauphin, Louis 
XVII of France, the son of Marie Antoinette. 

136. At the end of Longmeadow street is a view 
of Springfield, with Mt. Tom and the Holyoke 
range beyond it, to the left of the sharp tower of 
the City Hall. Immediately at the right is Forest 
Park, a monument to President McKinley and the 
Barney mausoleum and residence. 

137.8 Entering fSpringfield (Pop. 89,000) the route 
proceeds directly to the center of the city at Main 
and State streets. 

The route to Boston turns to the right on State street 

(page 51). 

The routes to Pittsfield and Greenfield keep straight 
ahead on Main street. (See page 275.) 

For the Kimball Hotel, turn right on Bridge street to 
Chestnut. 




Lake Sunapee and the Granliden 



II 

The Connecticut Valley and Sunapee Lake 
Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H., 169 Miles 

This route supphes to the tourist from New York 
a direct and in many respects an attractive way of 
reaching the White Mountains. It does not follow 
the hne of the railroad through the length of the 
Connecticut valley because it seems more desirable 
to enter the mountains by way of Franconia Notch 
than to encircle this delightful section and thus fail 
to see some of the best features of the region. At 
the same time this route takes advantage of one of 
the great longitudinal highways of the State of New 
Hampshire on which the grades are less frequent 
than on the river road above Brattleboro. 

The fact that the route also passes Sunapee Lake 
does not add greatly to its advantages unless the 
tourist is to spend some time in this vicinity, because, 
while Sunapee is a delight to those familiar with its 
shores, it does' not offer many views of itself to the 
passerby. In fact, the only way to really see the 
lake is to view it from a boat or a mountain. 

Beyond Sunapee there is little to commend the 
route except the fact that it leads to the most desir- 
able gateway of the mountains and that the distance 
across country to Bristol is not great. 

The Connecticut valley in Massachusetts contains 
much of historic interest, this having been the frontier 
in the time of King Philip's and the French and 
Indian wars, and for more than fifty years the scene 
of repeated attacks by the Indians. 

35 



36 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H., 169 Miles 

Shown in reverse direction on pages 218-228 

0. Springfield. Proceeding up Main street with the 
group of Municipal buildings on the left, the route 
passes beneath the railroad near the station. 

1. At the monument to Spanish War soldiers, we 
bear left, passing the stone Memorial church on 
the right. 

1.7 Cross the Connecticut River. 

1.9 Immediately beyond the bridge, the common at 
West Springfield is on the left. Here is a boulder 
monument marking the site of the Hessian camp 

in 1777. 

Turning sharply to the right, along the river, 
through a part of West Springfield, Mt. Tom, with 
its gilt-tipped paviHon, appears prominently at 
the left. 

3.5 The Springfield Country Club is on the left. 

4.4 Over at the right the manufacturing town of 
Chicopee is seen across the river. 

6.3 Leaving the river road to avoid the center of the 
city of Holyoke, the route crosses beneath the 
railroad at Ingleside station and passes through 
the districts of Elmwood and Holyoke Highlands. 
tHolyoke (Pop. 57,500) is the seat of important manu- 
factories of paper, satin, cotton, etc., power for the opera- 
tion of which is furnished by the Connecticut River. The 
water is carried by canals in three levels with a total fall of 
60 feet. A new hotel. The Nonotuck, will be opened dur- 
ing the Summer of 19 15. 

To visit Mt. Holyoke, which may be ascended by auto- 
mobile (10 per cent grades), keep along the river road to 



THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 37 

Holyoke, passing through the length of the city on Main 
street, cross the Connecticut to South Hadley Falls and 
proceed thence to South Hadley where Mt. Holyoke College 
is passed on the right. At South Hadley bear left, go 
through the pass "Thermopylae" where a shoulder of the 
mountain comes down to the river, and soon after turn 
to the right on the road to the summit. Although the 
elevation is not great, the view from this peak has often 
been called the finest in America. 

To rejoin the main route at Northampton, the best course 
is by way of Hadley, with its remarkable streets and elms, 
rather than by the picturesque Hockanum Ferry road. 

Passing, on the main route, through the High- 
lands, the road soon returns to the river, with its 
attractive scenery. 

10.7 At the entrance to Mt. Tom Park, where cars 
are taken for the ascent of the peak, is Kenilworth 
Castle, of brownstone on the left. 

The view of the Holyoke Range from this point 
is particularly fine. 

Skirting the Mt. Tom Range, on the left, the 
road descends to the level of the river, passing 

13. Smith's Ferry and the home of the Holyoke 
Canoe Club, on the right. 

15.3 The Ox-Bow of the Connecticut, so prominent 
in the view from Mt. Holyoke, is passed at the left. 

17.5 t Northampton (Pop. 19,500). Entering the city 
on Pleasant street, the post ofhce is on the left and 
the railroad station a short block at the right. 

The Draper Hotel is at 171 Main street. 

To visit Smith College {yi mile) turn to the left on 
Main street, and pass the municipal buildings on the left. 
The college is on the right at the top of a slight grade. 

17.5 The through route proceeds directly across 

Main street, into King street, passing the Court 



38 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

House on the left at the corner. Here also is a 
small boulder monument marking the site of the 
first church in Northampton. 

Just beyond, on the right, is the Y. M. C. A. 

A little beyond this, after passing the Roman 
Catholic school is a yellow brick house standing 
somewhat back from the street and bearing a 
tablet. This is the site of the home of Jonathan 
Edwards, the eminent divine of Colonial days who 
ministered to the church in Northampton from 
1727 to 1750. The stump of the great Edwards 
elm which fell in 19 13 is seen on the grounds, near 
the street. 

As we proceed along King street, Round Hill 
is on the left. Here Jenny Lind spent her honey- 
moon in 1852. 
19. Upon crossing a bridge over the railroad, the 

village of Hatfield is seen at the right. 
20.5 Laurel Park, a Methodist camp-meeting ground 
is passed on the left. 

Here an attractive view ahead includes the 
Sugar Loaf mountains and Mt. Tobey, with the 
valley of the Connecticut between them. 
26.5 Passing through a rich farming country which 
produces great quantities of tobacco, corn and 
onions, the village of Whateley is seen at the left. 
28. Approaching South Deerfield, the Sugar Loaf 
mountains are on the right, the south peak having 
a house on the summit. 

On these mountains it is said King Philip had 
headquarters from which he directed the attacks 
of his warriors upon the valley settlements. 



THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 39 

29.5 In t South Deerfield, on the right, in an open 
triangle, is a monument marking the site of the 
battle of Bloody Brook in which Captain Lathrop 
and his band of eighty-four young men, "the 
flower of Essex," from the eastern shore of Mas- 
sachusetts, were ambushed and killed by the 
Indians in 1677. 
30.4 From the overhead railroad crossing at the 
end of the village, Mt. Tom lies directly down the 
track. 

The Pocumtuck range of hills is on the right as 
the road passes through Mill Village (32.4) and 
approaches Old Deerfield, the scene of many 
Indian attacks between 1675 and 1709. 
34. Deerfield. Many sites in the village are marked 
with tablets, and there are many old houses, 
particularly rich in Colonial doorways. 

The manufacture of fine basketry and hand- 
woven fabrics is carried on in several places. 

Near the center of the village, a road at the right 
leads to the nearby Memorial Hall which contains 
remarkable collections of Indian and Colonial 
relics. 

At the village green, on the left, is the Soldiers' 
monument and tablets marking the site of the 
ancient '^Indian House," the stout door of which, 
hacked by the tomahawks of the Indians is pre- 
served in Memorial Hall. 

By the roadside here, also, is a brownstone 
fountain-to-be marking the site of the old fort well. 

Upon leaving Deerfield, the elevation across the 
valley at the left is Arthur's Seat, around which 



40 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the Fitchburg Division railroad makes a long de- 
tour to the south on its way to Hoosac Tunnel. 

36. At the entrance to f Greenfield (Pop. 10,400), 
the road crosses the Deerfield River, where it breaks 
through the hills to join the Connecticut, and turn- 
ing to the left, follows Green River to the railroad 
station. 

37.3 Turning to the right under the tracks, the route 
ascends, passing the Soldiers' monument on the 
left, and crosses Main street. 

The Weldon Hotel is reached by a right turn on Main, 
and next left on High street. 

For the Mohawk Trail over Hoosac Mountain to Wil- 
liamstown see page 244. For the route to Boston see page 
286. 

Leaving Greenfield by Federal street, the route 
passes Poet's Seat, a square stone tower on Rocky 
Hill at the right, and runs through a prosperous 
farming country to 

43.9 Bernardston, where it turns to the right in 
the center of the village. 

47.3 When descending a grade toward a prominent 
three-corners, where the route bears to the right, 
the grove known as Mt. Hermon Pines is seen over 
at the right. 

After bearing to the right at the three-corners, the 
first road at the right leads through this grove to Mt. 
Hermon, the location of the D. L. Moody School for boys. 
The buildings are open for inspection, and there is an 
excellent view over the valley of the Connecticut. The 
return to the main route is by a road nearer the river. 

48.5 The road now crosses the Connecticut River 
and climbing a winding grade, enters 



THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 41 

49.3 fNorthfield. Northfield street, 200 feet wide 
and shaded by four rows of elms, is one of the best 
of the many dehghtful streets found in the old New 
England towns. The boulder monument on the 
right at the entrance to the street, marks the site 
of a large oak beneath which the first religious 
services in the town were held, 1673. 

49.6 A little further up the street on the left, is a 
tablet marking the place of the first settlement 
of the town in 1672, and the site of an old fort. 

49.9 On the right is the Belcher Memorial fountain. 

50.3 Passing the Library, on the right, the road 
descends a slight grade and crosses a bridge into 
East Northfield. 

On the left just before reaching the bridge is a 
boulder marking the site of an early fort and over 
at the right, the Schell mansion "Greytowers" 
is seen. 

In the ledge in front of the church, on the right, 
is cut this inscription, "Here, July 23, 1748, Aaron 
Belding was killed and scalped by the Indians." 

50.7 Over at the right is The Northfield, one of the 
few large temperance hotels in Massachusetts. 

51.2 At the end of the village, where the view opens 
out over the Connecticut valley, on the left, at the 
beginning of a long descent, is the favorite "Sun- 
set Tree" of Dwight L. Moody, whose residence 
was the white house (the last on the street) almost 
directly opposite. 

Just beyond are the entrances to the grounds of 
Northfield Seminary, the Moody School for Girls, 



42 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

some of the buildings of which are seen at the- 
right. 

51.3 Part way down the hill at the right, is a mon- 
ument erected to Nathaniel Dickenson, killed and 
scalped by Indians at this spot, 1747. 

52.3 The route now crosses the Massachusetts-New 
Hampshire State line. One monument is on the 
right and another in a field on the left. 

From this point the Connecticut River forms the line 
between New Hampshire and Vermont. The route here 
enters one of the three highways to the White Mountains, 
which the State of New Hampshire has chosen for improve- 
ment and upon which most of the work has already been 
completed. A feature of these highways which adds 
greatly to the convenience of the tourist is the marking 
of the road by a band of distinguishing color upon tele- 
phone poles, fence posts, etc. The blue bands on this 
route may be followed for sixty miles, to Newport. 

Just out of view up the river is the plant of the 
Connecticut River Power Company, whose high 
tension lines are frequently seen in this section. 

57.3 Crossing the Ashuelot River, the route turns 
to the right into Hinsdale, N. H. 

The road to the left, up-grade, leads to Brattle- 
boro, Vt., seven and one-half miles. 

The route now leaves the Connecticut valley for 
that of the Ashuelot, and passes several manufac- 
tories of tissue paper. 

60.3 Passing through the double village of Ashuelot, 
and continuing on the left-hand side of the river, 
the road reaches 

63.3 Winchester. Upon crossing the railroad at 
the entrance to the village, one of the houses in 



THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 43 

the wooden block seen across the river, is the birth- 
place of Gen. Leonard Wood. 

Crossing the river the road immediately turns 
to the left in Winchester square. 

The brick church in the square is a memorial, 
erected on the site of the church in which the 
Universalist Creed was adopted in 1802. 

65.3 Two miles beyond Winchester the road crosses 
the outlet of Forest Lake, a glimpse of which may 
be had at the right, and then skirts the base of the 
Ashuelot Mountains. 

68.8 Passing through the village of Westport the 
route again crosses the Ashuelot. 

70. West Swanzy. The route does not pass through 
the center of the village. 

This was the home of Denman Thompson (Josh 
Whitcomb) whose house was in the village about 
one-half mile from the through road. 

To visit the Thompson place, turn to the right through 
the covered bridge and again to the right at the first prom- 
inent corner. The house is then on the right with smooth 
paving before it. Denman Thompson's grave may be 
seen from the road in the cemetery at the left near the 
house. 

On the right as the road approaches Keene, are 
excellent views of Mt. Monadnock. 

76.8 Turning to the right across the river the route 
enters 

76.3 t Keene (Pop. 10,000; elevation 500 feet). 
As the road turns to the left into Main street the 
State Normal School is on the right. Nearly 
opposite the entrance into Main street is the road 



44 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

from Keene to the region about Mt. Monadnock 
and thence to Boston. 

Keene is the commercial center of southwestern 
New Hampshire. The route passes through the 
center of the city, crossing the railroad at the 
station and bearing sHghtly to the right at Central 
square. 

Facing the square is the Cheshire House. 

76.8 On the right just beyond the square is the 
high school. 

77.3 On the left, at an open triangle is the county 
jail. For six miles the road now winds through 
a wooded country with a gradual ascent to the 
elevation of 1,000 feet. 

84.2 Part way down a long and rather steep descent, 
on the right, is a mica mine and near the foot of 
the grade (84.7) the road again meets the Ashuelot 
River which it crosses on a stone arch. The 
glimpse of the stream at the left is particularly 
attractive and here a few rods from the road down 
the river, is a large boulder known as the DeviPs 
Chair. 

85.4 At Gilsum the road turns sharply to the right 
and continues along the Ashuelot, now hardly more 
than a rushing trout brook. The balsam fir is 
plentiful throughout this section, and may be 
readily distinguished among the other trees by its 
sharp spire-like tops. 

92.3 Bearing to the left across a pond the road 
passes through the village of Marlow. 



THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 45 

95.7 On the right is Stone Pond. Between this 
point and Trout Pond, a mile beyond, is the height 
of land on this portion of the route. Stone Pond 
feeds the Ashuelot River while the waters of Trout 
Pond flow north into the Sugar River and thence 
into the Connecticut at a point some fifty miles 
north of the mouth of the Ashuelot. 

98.6 In a swamp on the left are many tamarack 
trees. 

99. The Lempster Mountains, ranging from 1,800 to 
2,000 feet in height appear on the right, and are 
prominently seen for the next five miles. 

1 01. Passing through the hamlet of East Lempster, 
where the elevation is about 1,200 feet, the road 
descends along the water courses leading into the 
south branch of the Sugar River. 

103. The first glimpse is obtained ahead at the 
right, of the Sunapee Mountains, which rise from 
the southern extremity of Sunapee Lake. 

107.5 After passing through Mill Village the Croy- 
don Mountains, which have an elevation of about 
3,000 feet, are seen ahead on the left. Crossing 
Sugar River the road enters 

112. t Newport (Pop. 4,000; elevation 850 feet). 
At this point the route leaves the State highway 
with its blue guides and at the center of the town 
turns to the right by the Newport House. Fol- 
lowing the valley of the Sugar River, the road 
passes through the village of Guild and reaches 

118. t Sunapee Harbor. The road hardly enters the 
village, however, bearing to the left on its outskirts, 



46 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

and following the general trend of the shore of 
Sunapee Lake to its head at George's Mills. 

1 19.3 The only general view of the lake which the 
route affords is that obtained from an elevation 
reached soon after passing the first road at the 
right leading to the Granliden. 

Sunapee Lake is eight miles in length and has 
an extreme width of two miles. Its elevation is 
1,090 feet. 
12 1.8 At George's Mills the head of the lake is 
reached. 

Upon ascending the grade beyond George's 
Mills, the road skirts the shores of Otter Pond. 

At the right is the road to Soo Nipi Park. Little 
Sunapee or Twin Lake, which lies at an elevation 
of 1,217 f^^t, is on the left. 

126.4 Turning to the right, the route enters Main 
street 

127. New London, and continues through the vil- 
lage, passing Colby Academy on the left. 

127.2 Just beyond the Academy the route turns 
to the left up-grade. At the top of the hill, where 
the elevation is about 1,400 feet, is a broad view 
at the left overlooking Pleasant Pond, the hills 
of Wilmot and the mountains beyond. Descend- 
ing the hill, Mt. Kearsarge, with an elevation of 
2,900 feet, is straight ahead. 

128.7 Turning to the left at a four-corners, the road 
continues to descend and runs along the lower end 
of Pleasant Pond to Elkins (130). Turning to 
the right here, along the outlet of the pond, the 
road passes directly through 



THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 47 

132.3 Wilmot Flats to the village of Cilleyville. 

134.2 Here the route turns sharply to the left, the 
road straight ahead leading to Franklin. 

At West Andover the route joins the line of the 
railroad between Franklin and White River Junc- 
tion and follows it through South Danbury to 

1 4 1. 5 Danbury. Here the route turns to the right 
across the railroad, and upon crossing the outlet 
of Bog Pond at 

143, Elmwood, turns to the left and follows the 
course of Smith's River. 

150.2 Turning to the left, the route ascends over a 
shoulder of Round Top Mountain and descending, 
crosses Newfound River and enters 

1 5 1. 7 Bristol. The route does not pass through the 
center of the town which is one-half mile at the 
right, but turns to the left and ascends the river. 

152.5 Upon reaching Newfound Lake, the route 
turns sharply to the right around the foot of the 
lake and follows the general course of its shores 
for about six miles. 

Beyond the head of the lake, the road descends 
a long grade with one of the feeders of Baker River, 

166.5 Turning sharply to the right at the end of the 
road the route soon ascends above the valley of 
Baker River and upon descending enters 

169. fPlyinouth. Small park at the end of High 
street. 

For the trip through the White Mountains, see page 148. 
For the route to Boston see page 201. 



Continued on pages 112-113 




48 To Providence 



To Taunton LOWEI 




LOPOLITAN BOSTON 



To Plymouth 




Ill 

Through the Heart of the Old Bay State 

Springfield to Boston, 95 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter XIII 

Before the first white settlers came to New England, 
an Indian trail through the wilderness ran between the 
intervales of the Connecticut River and the shores of 
Massachusetts Bay. This Indian trail was succeeded 
by the Bay Path of the colonists, which in turn gave 
place to the Great Post Road over which mails were 
carried first by post riders and then by the stages 
which transported passengers between Springfield and 
Boston for more than half a century. Upon the ad- 
vent of the railway this road for the first time in 
its history lost its character as a through route, but 
this has now been fully restored to it by the auto- 
mobile and the construction of the State Highway 
which follows not absolutely but in a general way, 
the course of the old path. 

Over this road have traveled many of the men 
whose names stand out in the history of the nation. 
Washington passed over it at least twice, and three 
or four of his successors in the office of President 
have followed in his footsteps in this respect. 

50 



THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 51 

Springfield to Boston, 95 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 256-264 

o. Springfield. Leaving the corner of Main and 
State streets, the route ascends the grade on State 
street, passing on the left, the statue of Deacon 
Chapin, an early settler, whom Saint-Gaudens 
has taken to typify "The Puritan." Directly 
beyond is the Library and Art Museum. On 
the right is the Church of the Unity and High SchooL 

Again on the left is the Cathedral and the United 
States Arsenal, the home of the Springfield rifle, 
and where most of the small arms used by the 
North in the Civil War were manufactured. 

Immediately beyond, on the left, is Benton Park 
on which stands the Wait Guide Post or Boston 
Stone, erected in 1763 by a Mr. Wait of Brookfield, 
who lost his way here in a snowstorm and set up 
the stone as a guide for future travelers. Here 
also is a boulder monument commemorating the 
closing scenes of Shay^s Rebellion, which were 
enacted on this spot in 1787. 

1.4 Keeping to the left at an open triangle the route 
enters Boston Road and passes a large motor- 
cycle factory on the right. 

3. At St. Michael's cemetery the route, leaving 
the trolley line, bears to the right, and crosses 
Springfield Plains. At the left is a ghmpse of 
Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range, and on the right 
are the Wilbraham Mountains. 



r>2 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

4.9 On the left is Five-mile Pond, so named on 
account of its distance from Springfield. 

9.2 Passing Nine-mile Pond, on the right, the route 
enters North Wilbraham, crosses beneath the rail- 
road and skirts a quiet stretch of the Chicopee. 
Upon approaching Palmer, the conical peak of 
Mt. Dumpling is seen ahead on the left. 

13.2 Under a large elm on the right is a tablet stat- 
ing that Washington twice passed beneath the tree, 
and in 1775, when on his way to take command of 
the Continental army at Cambridge, stopped here 
to address the citizens who had come to meet him. 
Upon entering Palmer the State Epileptic Hospital 
at Monson, is seen at the right on the slopes of 
Chicopee Mountain. 

15.2 Palmer is at the junction of the Boston & 
Albany and the Vermont Central (New London & 
Northern) Railroads. At the center of the town 
the route turns squarely to the left and then to the 
right on the state road. 

16.7 Passing under the railroad in two dangerous 
crossings, the road ascends the picturesque valley 
of the Quaboag River. 

The valley opening at the right extends into 
Brimfield and thence to Sturbridge and Webster. 
This is the route of the Southern New England 
Railroad, which, making a long loop, crosses the 
valley of the Quaboag and skirts the Brimfield hills. 
About two miles at the right, but hidden by the 
intervening hills, rises Steerage Rock, which is said 
to be a point from which the Indians laid their 
courses through the wilderness. 



THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 53 

2 1. Over at the right is West Brimfield station 

24. At West Warren begins the trolley line which 
the route follows to Worcester. Passing through 
this village and Warren, both small manufacturing 
towns, the road reaches 

30.2 West Brookfield. On the left at the entrance 
to the town is Wickaboag Lake. On the right in 
the center of the village is the Old Tavern which, 
built in 1760, has sheltered Washington, Lafayette, 
John Adams and other notables. 

On the green is an old mile-stone ** Boston 63 
miles" and nearly across the street as it curves to 
the right (No. 42 South Main street), is the house 
formerly occupied by Prof. Austin Phelps, the 
father of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward. 

The road now skirts Foster's Hill, the site of the 
first settlement of Brookfield. On this hill are 
several tablets marking scenes in King Philip's 
war and the rock where Whitfield preached in 1741. 

;^^. As the road ascends Brookfield Hill, on the right 
is ** Brookfield Farmhouse" with a remarkably 
fine Colonial doorway and windows. Following 
the trolley line through Brookfield the route soon 
passes through the village of 

35.8 East Brookfield where Lake Lashaway, or 
Furnace Pond, is on the left. 

38.5 On the left are three monuments pertaining 
to the Bemis family which settled here in 1721, 
one of which marks the site of the first frame house 
erected in Spencer. 

39.5 Spencer (Pop. 6,700) is the seat of a large 
manufactory of boots and shoes. In front of the 



54 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Town Hall, on the left, is a monument to Elias 
Howe, an inventor of the sewing machine, and his 
brothers who were also inventors of note. 

There is a stiff up-grade through Spencer as the 
road here reaches the top of the ridge which 
crosses central Massachusetts, with an elevation of 
1,200 feet. In finding its way across this ridge, 
the railroad makes a detour to the south so that 
the distance by rail between East Brookfield and 
Worcester is five miles longer than that by the road. 
The highest elevation reached by our route is about 
1,050 feet. This ridge is naturally a prominent 
watershed, and some of the streams in this vicinity 
find their way into Narragansett Bay, some into 
the Thames River, and some into the Connecti- 
cut. 

43.5 On the right lived Lewis Allen a tory who, at 
his request, was buried in his garden near the road 
"so that he might hear the stage go by with the 
news from Boston." 

44.5 Leicester. Leicester Academy, on the left, 
was established in 1784. On the common is a 
boulder monument to the minute men who marched 
from this point in 1775. 

The last house on the left at the brow of the 
hill, marked as the site of the first house in Leicester, 
was the residence of Samuel May, a noted anti- 
slavery worker. 

46.3 Descending through Cherry Valley, the scene 
in 1876 of a disaster caused by the breaking of a 
dam, the route reaches 



THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 55 

48.6 t Worcester (Pop. 146,000). Entering the city 
on Main street the route passes Clark University 
on the left. 

49.2 On a hill at the left may be seen the castle-like 
buildings formerly occupied by Oread Seminary, 
an important school for girls. 

The leading hotel of Worcester is The Bancroft. 
Near the center of the city, on the right, is the 
Post Office, of marble with a square tower. 

50.5 A little beyond this is City Hall, around which 
the route turns to the right. At the side of the 
building is a statue of Senator George F. Hoar, 
and in the park at the rear, a monument over the 
remains of Col. Timothy Bigelow and other 
Revolutionary soldiers and the Soldiers' monument 
"Victory." 

50.9 Turning to the left opposite the new Union 
station, the square granite tower of the old station 
is on the right. At the top of the hill as the 
route turns to the right is the State Asylum for 
the Insane. 

53. The road now crosses Lake Quinsigamond at 
the "White City" amusement resort. A little 
beyond, the Boston & Worcester trolley line leaves 
to the right. The road straight ahead is said to be 
the first turnpike for which a charter was granted 
in Massachusetts. 

55.1 From the brow of Shrewsbury Hill is an ex- 
cellent view at the left extending from Worcester 
to Mt. Wachusett (with a house on its summit). 
The large estate on the left is that of C. H. Hut chins, 
president of the Crompton-Knowles Loom Works. 



56 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

56.1 Shrewsbury. At the center of the town is 
the common with a brick schoolhouse used since 
1830 at its upper end and a small boulder mon- 
ument, at the church, to 128 minute-men who 
marched from here at the Lexington alarm. In 
the church here, John B. Gough delivered his first 
temperance lecture. 

56.8 On the right is a tablet marking the place 
where "Luther Goddard, a noted clock maker, 
established the first, factory for the making of 
American watches, about 1790." At the factory 
across the road leather has been continuously 
made since 1803. 

57.1 Near the bottom of the hill, on the right, 
standing a little above the road, is the home of 
Gen. Artemus Ward who had command of the 
troops at Cambridge before the arrival of General 
Washington. 

Opposite the house is an old mile-stone. 

57.4 A little beyond this, in the forks of the road 
stands a house once kept as a tavern by Levi 
Pease, "The father of the Turnpike, " who estab- 
lished a stage line between Boston and Hartford 
in 1783, held the first contract made by the United 
States Government for the carrying of mails, and 
received the first charter granted in Massachusetts 
for a turnpike. 

60.6 The route now passes directly through the 
center of Northboro. 

62.7 On the right is a small monument marking 
the site of an old garrison house where Mary 
Goodnow was killed by Indians in 1707. 




An Old Oak at the "Wayside Inn»» 



58 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

65.5 The route skirts Williams Pond at the head of 
which, as the road turns to the left, is the old 
Gates Tavern estabUshed in 1665. 

66. Marlboro (Pop. 14,600). As the route reaches 
the main street of the city, the Library is on the 
left. Just beyond the Soldiers' monument on 
the left is G. A. R. Hall, on the front of which is 
"John Brown's Bell" which hung in the engine 
house at Harper's Ferry where Brown made his 
fight and was captured. This bell he expected to 
ring as a signal for the uprising of the slaves. 
Beyond G. A. R. Hall is the high school. On 
the right the route passes the railroad station, 
City Hall and one of the several large manufac- 
tories of men's shoes in the city. 

66.5 At the lower end of the city the route turns 
sharply to the left with a branch trolley Hne, at 
the end of which (67.0) it bears to the right and 
continues on the State highway. 

The right-hand road (66.5) leads to the Southborough 
Arms and to Boston via Framingham and Wellesley. 

7 1. 1 Some five miles beyond Marlboro, on the left, 
is Red Horse Tavern made famous by Longfellow's 
"Tales of a Wayside Inn," but in itself an interest- 
ing specimen of a Colonial tavern. About the 
house are oaks of remarkable size and of great age. 

71.6 On the left is a tablet marking the site of an 
old stone garrison house. From this point an ex- 
cellent view is obtained of the Wayside. 

75.1 Passing through j South Sudbury the route 
crosses the meadows of the Sudbury River and 
passes directly through 



THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 59 

77.2 Wayland. The village church, on the right 
was erected in 18 14. 

79.4 On the right is the beginning of the Connecticut 
Path, which was an early trail through the forests 
to the Connecticut settlements. 

80.6 Weston. The bell in the stone church on the 
left was cast by Paul Revere in 1801. 

At this point the more attractive route into 
Boston turns sharply to the right. 

To avoid Boston for points along the North Shore and 
the White Mountains by way of Portsmouth, keep straight 
ahead to Waltham, following the route outlined on the 
next two pages. 

Running, on the main route, across country from 
Weston for about three miles, the route crosses 
the Charles River (83.3) at Norumbega Park 
and enters the Commonwealth avenue boulevard. 

This excellent road, which passes through some 
of the best residential suburbs of Boston, will 
take us through Auburndale, Newton Centre, 
and a part of Brookline, passing the Beaconsfield 
Hotel (90.8), and may be followed to the center 
of the city (95.0). 

Among the better hotels on Commonwealth avenue 
are The Puritan, and The Somerset. A right turn around 
The Vendome into Dartmouth street will take one to 
the Copley Plaza, the largest of the Boston hotels. 

For the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 102. 

For the route to Portsmouth and North Conway see 
page 116. 

For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway see page 

135. 

For other routes see Finding-Map, page 2. 



GO FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

To reach the North Shore without entering Boston and 
avoiding all city streets. 

80.6 At Weston the route keeps straight ahead on 

the Post Road to the city of Waltham. 
84.0 The great watch factories, which are not 

clearly seen from the road, are on the right near the 

center of the city. 
84.5 Upon coming in sight of a railroad crossing, 

we turn to the left and upon passing beneath a 

railroad, bear to the right. 
86. On the right are the Waverly oaks which do 

not properly impress themselves upon the passer 

in the road, although they are in reality of great 

size and very old. 

86.5 Here the road turns very sharply to the right 
and passes the entrance to Beaver Brook Reserva- 
tion in which the great oaks are located. 

On the left is the McLean Asylum for the insane. 
The route does not cross the tracks but bears 
to the left and runs with the railroad to 

87.6 Belmont. Here again it bears to the left 
and runs along the borders of a great market 
gardening section. 

88.6 On the right is Spy Pond. 

At the entrance to Arlington near the shores 
of this pond lived J. T. Trowbridge, the writer, at 
No. 152 Pleasant street. The house sets back 
from the road at a curve to the right, and the 
number is marked in the sidewalk. 

88.6 Arlington. At the center of the town the 
route turns to the right on Massachusetts avenue, 



THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 61 

which was the course of the British advance toward 
Lexington at the beginning of the Revolution. 
Paul Revere' s famous ride took him up this road. 
Running for a short distance on Massachusetts 
avenue, the route turns to the left directly beyond 
the railroad crossing at the old Cooper Tavern. 

90.2 On the outskirts of ArHngton, at the outlet 
of the Mystic Lakes, the route turns to the right 
on a reverse curve and follows the Mystic Valley 
parkway to 

92.3 Medford. At the end of the winding park- 
way the route turns to the left across the Mystic 
River and at Medford square, turns to the right 
with no trolley Hne. 

On the left in the square is the old Seccomb 
house now used for city offices. 
93.2 Keeping straight through on Riverside street, 
the route passes, on the left, the plantation house 
of Matthew Cradock, the first governor of Mas- 
sachusetts Colony. This is one of the first brick 
houses built in New England, and is, in fact, one 
of the oldest houses standing in this part of the 
country. It was built in 1634. Cradock never 
occupied the house personally as he did not visit 
America, but did his governing from the other side 
of the water. 

93.7 At the end of the road, the route turns to the 
right on a parkway and then at the first left, where 
it enters the 

94.1 Revere Beach boulevard and joins the route 
from Boston to Portsmouth. (See page 116.) 



IV 

The Shore Line 
New Haven to New London, 53 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter XVII 

Of the two main routes between New York and 
Boston, that by way of Springfield is, all things con- 
sidered, the better. 

The route along the Shore Line is, however, far 
from unattractive, including as it does some of the 
finest roads in New England and affording an oppor- 
tunity to visit the great resorts of Watch Hill, 
Narragansett Pier and Newport. 

Perhaps there is no stretch of road of equal length 
in all New England on which there are standing so 
many houses of the Colonial period as on this road 
between New Haven and New London. 

Each of these old places, many of them with over- 
hanging second and third stories, seems to invite the 
investigation of its history, but they are so numerous 
that even a mention of them other than in this gen- 
eral and superficial way, is beyond the scope of ^the 
present writing. 

The towns of Branford, Guilford and Saybrook 
were settled before 1640, the other settlements are 
nearly as old, and all have escaped the inundation of 
manufacturing enterprise which has swept away the 
old landmarks in so many places. 

62 



THE SHORE LINE 63 

New Haven to New London, 53 Miles 

For road map of New Haven section, see pages 16-17 
Shown in reverse direction on pages 324-328 

o. New Haven. Leaving the green on the left, 
the route follows Chapel street, through one of the 
least attractive sections of the city, crossing 

1.2 Mill River as it enters New Haven Harbor, 

1.8 Turning to the right on Ferry street, the 
Quinnipiac River is crossed at the head of the 
harbor. 

2.7 At Forbes Corners the route bears to the left, 
avoiding the road to Morris Cove. 

4.2 Passing through East Haven, the "Old Stone 
Church" is on the left. 

5.2 On the left is seen Lake Saltonstall, on which 
the college boat races were formerly held. 

7.2 Upon entering Branford, on the left is the 
Blackstone Memorial Library, said to be the finest 
building of its kind in Connecticut. The library 
and its ample endowment are the gift of Timothy 
B. Blackstone, formerly a Chicago railway president. 
On Montowese street at the. right (off the main route) 
is the site of the Russell parsonage, in which Yale College 
was formed. 

After leaving Branford the route runs for some 
miles through the country at a considerable dis- 
tance from the shore. Upon joining a trolley line 
we follow it into the old town of 

16.2 Guilford. Opposite the lower end of the 
green, around which the route turns to the left, 
is the Halleck house (over stores) standing on 



64 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the site of the birthplace of the poet Fitz-Greene 
Halleck. Here he also spent the later years of his 
life. His burial place is in the cemetery on the 
right after passing the green. 

To visit the free Historical Museum owned by the 
State and lodged in one of the oldest houses in New Eng- 
land, keep straight ahead across the trolley line at the 
lower end of the green, on Whitfield street. The "Old 
Stone House," as it is called, built in 1639, is on the left, 
less than one-half mile down the street. 

Guilford was the birthplace of Rev. W. H. H. ("Adiron- 
dack") Murray, and here was one of the many hiding 
places of the regicide judges of Charles I. Neither, how- 
ever, is on the line of the route. 

At East River station the railroad is crossed 
and there are then views of Long Island Sound 
and Falkner Island light. 

20.8 Upon entering Madison, at the further end 
of the green is the memorial Town Hall with tablets 
containing Civil War rolls. The main street of 
this fine old town is shaded by four rows of elms 
and lined with houses of the Colonial period, among 
which is an old inn, on the left. 

23.7 Crossing Hammonasset River the route enters 

24.8 Clinton. On the left is the home of Pond's 
Extract. 

25.2 Upon the green, at the left, is a monument, 
surmounted by a group of books, which marks the 
place where the earliest classes of Yale College 
were taught by Rector Abraham Pierson, the first 
president of the College and pastor of Killingworth 
(now Clinton) church. The college at this time, 



THE SHORE LINE 65 

was located at Saybrook Point, but as President 
Pierson refused to go there, the students were 
obliged to come to him and the college was prac- 
tically at Clinton though the commencements 
were held at Saybrook. 

Immediately beyond this green, on the left, is 
a large well-kept Colonial house, which contains 
the John Stanton collection of Connecticut an- 
tiquities. 

In front of Morgan School, on the left, are statues 
of Charles Morgan, the founder of the school, and 
"the good and learned Abraham Pierson." 

Longfellow's poem, "The Birds of Killing wor th , " 
one of the "Tales of a Wayside Inn," refers to this 
region. 

Grove Beach is on the right. 

28.7 Crossing two branches of the Menanketesuck 
River the route enters and passes through the 
town of 

29.5 Westbrook. The views of Long Island Sound 
obtained beyond the village are the last open sea 
views afforded by this route before reaching New 
London. 

33.2 fold Saybrook. At the end of the road the 
route turns to the left around the Inn. Directly 
ahead across the street is an old mile-post of red 
sandstone, which gives the distance to Hartford 
as forty-one miles. 

A turn to the right on the main street of the town will 
lead one to the home of the First Church, which was or- 
ganized in 1646, in the "Great Hall" of the Fort. Con- 
tinuing below the church, and turning to the left, we may 



66 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

reach (ij^ miles) Say brook Point, where the first settle- 
ment of the town was made in 1635. 

In the Point cemetery is the unlettered and transplanted 
tombstone of Lady Fenwick, who died here in 1648. 

Here, too, was located Yale College during the first years 
of its life, the site of the old school being marked by a 
boulder monument. 

33.2 Continuing on the main street from the center 
of Old Saybrook, the route bears to the right at 
a fork in the village and soon reaches the 

36.5 Connecticut River which is crossed about three 
miles from its mouth, by a toll bridge some 1,600 
feet long. The site of the primitive old ferry used 
up to a few years ago, is seen below near the rail- 
road bridge, and the spire of Old Lyme is ahead 
at the right. 

37.5 The route does not pass through this fine old 
village with its venerable trees and Colonial 
mansions, but turns inland at the entrance to the 
town and for the remainder of the distance to New 
London runs far back from the shore. 

42.5 On both sides of the road is the M. F. Plant 
State Game Preserve. 

44.5 The lower end of Pataguanset Lake is on the 
left. 

45.8 Passing through East Lyme (Flanders P. O.) 
the road makes 

46.7 a double crossing of the Niantic River, crosses 
the township of Waterford, and enters 

52. t New London (Pop. 19,600). This was formerly 
a whaling center from which a large number of 
vessels engaged in the trade. 



THE SHORE LINE 67 

The harbor, formed by the broadened mouth 
of the Thames River, is one of the best on the New 
England coast. From this point boats run to 
Fisher's Island, Block Island and New York, and 
here terminates the New London & Northern rail- 
road, now a part of the Central Vermont (Grand 
Trunk) system. 

The through route toward Boston enters the 
city on Bank street, passing, on the left, the large 
Colonial house which is now the home of the 
New London County Historical Society. This 
is one of the many New England mansions which 
entertained both Washington and Lafayette. 

A second house of the Colonial period, a little 
beyond, is the home of the Elks. Reaching State 
street, at the center of the city, the route 

S3, turns to the right and crosses the railroad tracks 
to the Groton ferry. 

(Continued to Boston on page 70.) 

Points of Interest in New London. 

This route does not oflfer the tourist an opportunity to 
see the chief points of interest in New London. The area 
of the city is, however, not large, and a short detour will 
amply repay the traveler. 

For many people interest will be centered in the old 
Town Mill, which is in fact one of the most notable relics 
standing in New England. New London was founded 
by John Winthrop, Jr., who came here from Ipswich, Mass., 
about 1645. Soon after this, probably in 1650, Winthrop 
built this mill which is not only still standing, but is still 
in daily use as^a grist mill. To visit this old landmark: 
upon entering State street turn to the left and crossing 
the "Parade" above the Soldiers' Monument, turn to 



68 



FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



the right with a trolley line on Main street, and pass a 
large savings bank, on the right. About one-half mile 
beyond this, on the right, is the Old Mill. Winthrop's 
house stood nearby. 

From this point continue a short distance on Main 
street, turn to the left on Williams street, and then bear 
left into Huntington street. On an embankment at the 
right stands the schoolhouse where Nathan Hale, the 
patriot, was teaching when he received his commission 
to enter the Continental Army. In the open square just 
beyond is the statue of John Winthrop. 

At the fork of the roads as Broad street comes in from 
the right, is "Mt. Vernon House." 

Directly beyond this, at the head of State street, is the 
Court House, built in 1767, in front of which is the fire- 
men's monument. Opposite, on the corner of State street, 
is the Public Library. 

State street, which is the main business street of the 
city, will take us either to the Mohican Hotel or the Groton 
Ferry, whence a road along the east bank of the Thames 
leads to the Griswold at Eastern Point. (See page 70.) 




:0^ 



The Beach and The Mathewson at Narragansett Pier, R. I. 



Through the Narragansett Country to Boston 

(1) New London to Boston, 118.6 Miles 
(2) Fall River to Boston, via Plymouth, 108 Miles 

The section traversed by this route is noted histor- 
ically as having been the home of the Indian tribes 
which caused more trouble to the colonists than any 
others in New England. The savage Pequots and 
the Narragansetts under King Philip, were a constant 
menace to the settlers until they were virtually de- 
stroyed by the battles at Mystic, Conn., and in the 
great Rhode Island swamp fight, near Wickford. 

The face of the country through this eastern corner 
of Connecticut and across the State of Rhode Island 
is less attractive than that in other parts of the route, 
although there are many noble views of the sea and 
of the delightful shores of Narragansett Bay. 

The route selected as the best between New London 
and Boston crosses Narragansett Bay to Newport by 
a ferry, the passage of which is broken by a run of a 
mile across the island of Conanicut. This ferry trip 
occupies an hour, and is a pleasant and interesting 
variation to the ordinary features of a tour. The 
route by way of Providence is doubtless somewhat 
shorter, but the eight miles of city streets through 
Providence and Pawtucket make it far less attractive 
than this route by way of Newport. An added in- 
terest is obtained if the tourist elects to take the 
longer route from Fall River, which includes the shore 
resorts on Buzzards Bay, the line of the Cape Cod 
Canal and points of historic interest at Plymouth. 

69 



70 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

(l) New London to Boston, 118.6 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter XVI, page 310 

o. The "Parade," New London, State and Bank 
streets. Running to the ferry at the foot of State 
street, the route crosses the broadened mouth of 
the Thames River. 

Above the railroad bridge at the left is the course 
of the Yale-Harvard boat races which either start 
or finish at the bridge. 

Straight ahead is Fort Griswold on Groton 
Heights and the monument, 134 feet high, erected 
as a memorial to those who fell in the massacre 
which took place here during the Revolution. 

o.i Upon leaving the ferry at Groton the route 
turns to the right along the river and follows the 
trolley line. At the second corner, on the left, 
is the Avery house, to which the wounded were 
carried during the attack on Fort Griswold. At 
the right on the New London side, is Fort Trumbull. 

2.5 Upon crossing under the railroad, at the left 
is the monument "erected on the site of the home 
built in 1656 by Capt. James Avery, the founder 
of the family now known as the Groton A very s. 
This Hive of the Averys was owned and occupied 
by its valiant builder until his death. Its later 
ownership and occupancy passed in regular order 
of descent from father to son until it was burned 
on the night of July 20, 1894, Hinc illoe lacrimw." 

3 . 5 After passing through the hamlet of Poquonnock 
Bridge, on the right as the trolley line leaves the 
route, is the Town Hall of Groton, which is placed 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 71 

in this seemingly out-of-the-way part of the town 
to accommodate the inhabitants of the widely 
scattered villages which it contains. 

^.8 A Httle beyond a dilapidated trotting park, the 
road curves to the right and ascends the long steep 
slope of Fort Hill. Upon turning sharply to the 
left and reaching the second burial place at the 
top of the hill, a stop should be made for the view. 
From the wall enclosing the little cemetery of the 
Burrows family, the view includes Stonington and 
Watch Hill at the eastward; the mouth of Mystic 
River nearer at hand and Fishers Island, N. Y., 
beyond. Farther around toward the west is the 
mouth of the Thames with Hotel Griswold on the 
Groton side, and farther still is Groton monument 
and New London. 

This hill was the site of the fort of the Pequot 
Chief Sassacus who was defeated by Major John 
Mason with his band of colonists and friendly 
Indians, in 1637. The fort is supposed to have 
been located on the summit of the hill between the 
two cemeteries. 

Upon descending this hill the road encounters 
another of almost equal height, the southern 
shoulder of Pequot Hill. At the top of this hill 
a road at the left leads to the monument " erected 
by the State to commemorate the heroic achieve- 
ment of Maj. John Mason and his comrades." 

6.9 Descending the sharp slope of the hill the route 
turns to the left and follows the trolley line across 
Mystic River (7.2) through Mystic. It is a sur- 
prise to learn that this well-known name is here 



72 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

owned by no town. West Mystic, which is sep- 
arated from Mystic only by the river, is a part of 
Groton, while Mystic itself and Old Mystic, two 
or three miles to the north, are in the town of 
Stonington. 

9.0 The route now runs near the shore of Fishers 
Island Sound, passing on the right a lighthouse 
which seems to be set at an unusual distance from 
the sea. Offshore is Fishers Island, and ahead 
on the right the town of 

Stonington. This was formerly a great whaling 
center and the terminus of the Stonington Line 
of steamers which was one of the principal passenger 
routes between Boston and New York. 

The town contains many old residences. In 
1S14 it was bombarded for three days by several 
British warships, but the repeated attempts to 
effect a landing were frustrated. 

1 1.5 The route bears to the left just before reach- 
ing the railroad crossing and does not enter the 
town. 

After passing Stonington there are two or three 
opportunities to see f Watch Hill with its many 
hotels and summer houses, over at the right. 

It seems strange that a country so filled with 
boulders and rocks of every description as this, 
should have proved attractive to the pioneers, 
but here they came as early as 1649, when William 
Chesebrough, who had been a prominent man in 
the settlements near Boston, built his house at the 
head of 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 73 

14. 1 Wequetequock Cove, which is passed on 
the right. 

16.9 On approaching Westerly, in fact in what seems 
to be the center of the town, the route crosses the 
Pawcatuck River which here forms the boundary 
between Connecticut and Rhode Island. The 
community on the Connecticut side is a part of 
Ston'ngton. 

17. Westerly, R. I. (Pop. 8,700), is noted for its 
quarries of fine granite, the derricks pertaining 
to which are seen at many points. At the center 
of the town the Post Office, Public Library and 
High School are passed, on the left, and the Court 
House on the right. 

1 7. 1 Just beyond, as our route bears to the left 
on Granite street the road at the right, Elm street, 
leads to f Watch Hill, which is about six miles off 
the direct route. Among its better hotels are the 
Ocean House and the Watch Hill House. 

17.2 Bearing to the right, and running across country 
the route nears the shore and affords many fine 
views of the sea and of the series of great lagoons 
which line the coast of Rhode Island from Watch 
Hill to Point Judith. 

24. On the right is a monument erected by the 
State to General Joseph Stanton, Jr., the first 
United States Senator from Rhode Island under 
the Constitution, 17 90- 17 93. 

25.5 Charlestown "Pond," the largest of the lagoons, 
is close at hand. On the outside of the bar which 
cuts this pond off from the sea, is Charlestown 



74 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Beach, which is, however, reached from a point 
some miles further on. 
After passing through the Httle village of 
28.4 Charlestown on the left is an old inn. (29.2.) 
On the right is a fountain erected as a memorial 
to Margaret Weeden "who lived on this farm from 
1826 to 1863 and brought this water here." 

34.7 The square tower on the left is a private 
water tower. 

Point Judith is now at the right and may occa- 
sionally be seen across Point Judith Pond. 

35.8 About one-half mile back from the. road, on 
the left, is the birthplace of Commodore Oliver H. 
Perry, who in 18 13 commanded the squadron 
which captured the British fleet on Lake Erie. 

38.2 Wakefield. After crossing the railroad at the 
station, the route turns sharply to the right and runs 
almost directly south. 

38.8 At the four-corners, where the road straight 
ahead is marked for Providence, turn to the right 
and cross the railroad. 

For the more direct route, which does not pass through 
the center of Narragansett Pier, turn to the left at 39.4. 

See map, pages 80-81, for complete layout of the roads 
in this section. 

40.9 At t Narragansett Pier the route turns to the 
left along the shore. 

Just at the right is the Casino, and a road by the shore 
runs in front of some of the more important hotels, the larg- 
est being The Mathewson. From this point is a fine view 
across the mouth of Narragansett Bay to Newport. 

Above this point, the road makes several sharp 
turns, but is unmistakable. 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 75 

42.2 At the covered bridge over the outlet of Narrow 
or Pettaquamscutt "River," Tower Hill is on the 
left. 

The road now ascends the ridge which forms the 
backbone of Boston Neck, and from which there are 
frequent views over Narragansett Bay. 

On the left, across the valley in which lies 
Narrow River, is McSparren Hill, on which was the 
home of Rev. Dr. McSparren, the rector of the 
first Episcopal Church in New England. The 
church is still standing in the town of Wickford, 
which is reached by the route to Providence. 
45.8 On the right is St. John's Church, 
47.2 Saunderstown. At this point our route leaves 
the direct road to Providence and turning to the 
right, descends the slope of the ridge to the two- 
parted ferry by which we are to reach Newport. 
From the ferry slip Dutch Island lies directly 
ahead, with the great Conanicut Island beyond. 
Looking along the main land at the left, Plum 
Beach is seen. The ferry rounds the upper end 
of Dutch Island, which is entirely occupied by the 
works and garrison of Fort Greble and touches 
on the eastern side. 

Conanicut Island, which is the immediate destina- 
tion of the ferry is nine miles long and contains the 
town of Jamestown. The distance across the 
island is about a mile. Beaver Tail light which 
is at the lower extremity of the Island, is the oldest 
light in America, having been established in 1667. 
Near the ferry slip on the other side are a number 
of large but rather uninteresting hotels. 



76 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

The second ferry runs to the south of Rose 
Island, on which is a lighthouse and which is used 
chiefly as a powder magazine. - ■ 

At the right is Fort Adams at Newport, which 
was established during the presidency of John 
Adams. Directly ahead is Goat Island, which is 
occupied by Fort Warren and a torpedo station. 
As the ferry rounds this island, on the left are seen 
the buildings of the War College. 

The boat now lands at f Newport, the finest shore 
resort in this country. Its age is made manifest 
upon landing, by the width, or lack of width, of 
the streets. Thames street, on which we turn to 
the left upon leaving the ferry slip, is said to have 
been widened. Turning to the right at Washington 
square, we are in the center of the city. 

Here in the season are guides without number, 
but with well established ideas as to the value of 
their services. The "Cottage" drive at least should 
be taken, and the longer shore drive will not only 
give a better idea of the various features of the 
place, but will afford some delightful views. 

During the Revolution Newport was occupied by the 
British. Lord Percy commanded here and the fleet of 
Admiral Howe wintered here, 1777-78. 

There are many points of historic interest in the city. 

At Washington square is the monument to Commodore 
Oliver H. Perry, the hero of the Battle of Lake Erie, and 
the author of the famous despatch, "We have met the 
enemy and they are ours." Here Perry lived after the war. 

Beyond this monument is the old State House which was 
built in 1742, and served as a hospital in the Revolution. 



i^ 




A 



78 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Running easterly, with the Perry monument on the 
left, and bearing to the right on Truro street, behind the 
State House, we enter Bellevue avenue, and pass, on the 
left, the Jewish cemetery and the Redwood Library which 
was established in 1750, 

On Bellevue avenue are the Muenchener-King cottages, 
and nearby is the New Clififs Hotel, which, though of limited 
capacity, afford the best accommodations for the tourist, 
there being no hotels such as are seen at Narragansett 
Pier. 

Nearly opposite this is Truro Park at the lower end of 
which stands the Old Stone Mill, the origin of which has 
been the subject of much discussion and study. The 
chief theories are that it was either built in the eleventh 
century by the Norsemen or in the seventeenth century 
by Gov. Benedict Arnold, who died in 1678 and bequeathed 
it as "my stone-built wind-mill." Longfellow, in "The 
Skeleton in Armor," makes it the bower and memorial 
of a viking's wife. The opening scenes of Cooper's "Red 
Rover" are laid in this vicinity. 

In the park stands a statue of Com. Matthew C. Perry, 
who directed the building of the first steam vessel of our 
navy and in 1854 concluded the treaty which opened 
Japan to the world. 

Here also is a monument to William EUery Channing, 
who was born in Newport in 1780. 

49.0 To leave Newport the route starts at Wash- 
ington square with the Perry monument on the 
right and runs northeast with the trolley line, 
passing the City Hall on the right, and the Soldiers' 
monument. 

5 1. 1 Two miles beyond, at a prominent fork, the 
route bears to the right and follows a branch trolley 
line to Tiverton. 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 79 

The Island of Aquidneck or Rhode Island is 
about fifteen miles long and besides Newport, con- 
tains the towns of Middletown and Portsmouth. 

56.0 From the summit of Quaker Hill, the view 
overlooks the Sakonne "River," at the head of 
which is the Stone bridge (now in fact of steel) 
leading to the main land. On the heights beyond 
are the chimneys and spires of Fall River, among 
which there stands out prominently the great 
church of St. Anne. 

61.2 The route now descends through Portsmouth 
and crossing the bridge regains the main land at 
Tiverton. 

From Pocasset Hill and the high land which 
the route follows toward Fall River, the view 
across the bay includes Mt. Hope, where King 
Philip met his death, and the spires of Bristol. 
On the outskirts of Fall River the route crosses 
the State line into Massachusetts. 

Fall River (Pop. 119,000). This is the largest 
cotton milling center in America and presents a 
remarkable conjunction of water-power and water 
transportation. The Quequechan River running 
from the Watuppa Lakes, which lie but two miles 
east of the center of the city, has a fall of 127 feet 
in one-half mile. The route enters the city on 
South Main street. Opposite South Park is the 
Church and College of St. Anne. 

67.5 At the center, the City Hall, on the right, is 
built over the Quequechan, which crosses the line 
of Main street. By the side of City Hall is a 
fountain erected by Henry G. Coggswell of San 



To Providence 




80 



NARRAGANS; 



I Providence 



To Taunton 




\h [ditonS PI 

^NEWPORT 



A 



ri 



A 



/V 



C 



o 



c 1'^ '^ 



1(0 l9|5_Henry_iVlacNadrl 



Y DISTRICT 



81 



82 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Francisco, who "in 1833 as a boy marched to the 
music of the bell." 

This was also the scene of the Battle of Fall River, 
a Revolutionary engagement. 

At this point the route to Boston by way of New Bed- 
ford, the Buzzards Bay resorts, Cape Cod Canal and 
Plymouth, leaves on the right by Pleasant street, page 86. 

The direct route continues on Main street to 
Elm, where it turns to the left, and then to the 
right on Durfee street between the Armory and 
the Textile High School. At the foot of the grade 
the route turns to the left under the railroad and 
at once to the right on Davol street. 
69.3 Crossing the Taunton River the route turns 
to the right, up stream. The river maintains 
its width for several miles and the views are most 
pleasing. 

75.3 After passing through the villages of Potters- 
ville and Somerset, the route crosses an arm 
of the river and passes Dighton Rock Park, on 
the right. 

77. Dighton Rock has scratched upon its face rude 
hieroglyphic signs which have been attributed by 
various authorities to the Norsemen, the Phoeni- 
cians and the American Indians. The rock is not 
near the park which bears its name, but something 
over a mile above and on the other side of the 
river. The precise location is almost directly 
across the river as the route jogs to the left in 
Dighton. The center of the village is over at 
the left. The route crosses the railroad at the sta- 
tion and passes through the village of Segreganset. 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 83 

79.5 Crossing Three Mile River, the route enters 
by Somerset street, and keeps straight through 
Taunton (Pop. 34,000), the seat of extensive 
manufactories of stoves, furnaces, etc. 

83.3 At the center of the city, on the left, is the 
Green on which is a monument marking the spot 
where on October 25, 1786, General David Cobb 
with 400 troops defeated a body of insurgents in 
Shay^s Rebellion. Here also in 1774 (before the 
battle of Lexington) the citizens of Taunton raised 
a flag bearing the inscription "Liberty and Union." 

On the right, opposite the green, on the site now 
occupied by the National Bank stood the house of 
Robert Treat Paine, a signer of the Declaration of 
Independence. 

The route crosses the railroad at North Raynham, 
passes through the great Cedar swamp and the 
village of South Easton. 

95. Beyond this village the road passes through one 
of the great Ames estates, of which there are several 
in this vicinity. The residence is over at the right. 
There follows a long stretch of wild or sparsely 
settled country, broken only by the town of 
Stoughton. 

99.5 In passing through the center of this town the 
route bears to the left and then to the right. 

As the route runs over the rolhng turnpike road, 
the Blue Hills on the outskirts of Boston are 
seen rising directly ahead. On the summit of 
the Great Blue Hill is a weather forecasting sta- 
tion. The elevation of this hill is 606 feet. 



84 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

103.9 -^t Ponkapoag, the turnpike enters the road 
from Canton, and two miles beyond the road runs 
over a shoulder of the Blue Hills. 

106.4 At the entrance to the Reservation, on the 
right, the route bears to the right and descends 
from the shoulder of the Hills to the parkway 
below. 

108.6 Turning to the left and running through the 
parkwa^^ the route crosses the Neponset River at 
Mattapan and continues straight ahead on Blue 
Hill avenue. (See map, pages 11 2-1 13.) • 

III. At Morton street, we turn to the left and run 
first between Austin and Pierce farms, both city 
institutions, and then between Franklin Park 
and Forest Hills cemetery. 

113. Passing under the elevated and steam railroads 
at Forest Hills, the route enters a series of park- 
ways which continue practically to the center of 
Boston. 

1 13. 1 On the left is Arnold Arboretum, a botanical 
garden in which is located Bussey Institute, one 
of the activities of Harvard University. 

1 14.5 On the left is Jamaica Pond. 

1 1 5.3 Leverett Pond is on the left and the Little 
Wanderers' Home on the right. On the right is 
Parker Hill, on which is a large hospital. 

1 1 6. 7 On the right at the second crossing of Brook- 
line avenue, is Miss Wheelock's School for kinder- 
garten teachers. The medallion over the entrance 
represents Froebel instructing a group of children 



THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 85 

whose faces are those of children of graduates of 
the school. 

At this point the route crosses Brookline 
avenue diagonally, and bears to the right on 
Bo^dston street with a trolley line, passing on the 
left the baseball grounds of the American League. 
1 1 7.2 Bearing to the left on Charlesgate West the 
route crosses above the railroad and turns to the 
right on Commonwealth avenue, whence a right 
turn on Dartmouth street takes us to Copley square, 
fBoston (118.6) (see map, page 304). 

F'or the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 160. 
For Portsmouth and North Conway see page 116. 
For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway, page 135. 
For other routes see Finding Map, inside front cover. 




The Copley Plaza, one of Boston's Large Hotels 



86 FAVORITE MOTORWAYS 

(2) Fall River to Boston, via Plymouth, 108 Miles 

Total distance to Boston from New London, 175 miles 
Shown in reverse direction on pages 299-309 

o. Fall River (Pop. 119,000). From City Hall 
the route runs east on Pleasant street along the 
course of the Quequechan River and crosses the 
"Narrows " between the two Watuppa Ponds which, 
fed by immense springs, are the source alike of 
the city's water supply and the power for its 
mills. 

2.3 Here we enter the turnpike which leads directly 
to New Bedford. 

6.9 On the right is Westport Factory and on the 
left Lincoln Park, an amusement resort. 

10. 1 After passing through the village of North 
Dartmouth the route soon enters 

12. New Bedford (Pop. 96,600). This was formerly 
a great whaling center, more than 300 whaling 
vessels sailing from this port in 1857, but is now a 
place of large manufacturing interests, including 
more than forty cotton mills. 

From the high land at the entrance to the city 
the view overlooks the harbor, which is formed by 
the broadened mouth of the Acushnet River as it 
enters Buzzards Bay, and Fairhaven beyond. 

The route passes through little of the city, de- 
scending directly to the business center where 
it turns to the right for a block either on Pleasant 
or Purchase (main) street, and then left down the 
grade on Middle street to the river. 



THE OLD COLONY 87 

13.7 From the great bridges over the Acushnet, the 
view behind includes many of the mills which line 
the water front. 

14.2 fFairhaven (Pop. 5,000). Upon entering this 
town, the great High School building is straight 
ahead. This school, with other public buildings, 
the equal of which is probably possessed by no 
other town of the same size in New England, was 
made possible by the assistance of Mr. Henry H. 
Rogers, of the Standard Oil Company, who was 
born in Fairhaven and maintained a residence here. 
Immediately after crossing the bridge the route 
turns to the right and at Center street (14.8) turns 
to the left and passes the post office on the left, 
and on the right the Millicent (memorial) Library, 
the magnificent property of the Unitarian Church 
which occupies an entire square, Tabitha Inn and 
the Rogers School. 

Beyond this the route turns to the left on Rotch 
street and to the right at the block beyond, with 
the trolley line. From here the route follows a 
very irregular course as it passes around the various 
indentations which mark the shores of Buzzards 
Bay. 

19. Mattapoisett. The route passes through the 
village with views of the bay. 

24. Upon entering f Marion, the route turns to the 
right on Main street and at the center of the 
town, turns to the left on Front street. 

Marion is located on Sippican Harbor and has a 
great wireless sending station of the Marconi 
Company, which works direct with Norway. 



88 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

The messages are sent mechanically at the rate of 
about loo words per minute and are received upon 
a photographic film. The receiving station at this 
end is located at Chatham on Cape Cod, about 
twenty miles away. 

The Sippican, a summer hotel, overlooks the harbor. 

29.3 Wareham. Turning to the right at the end 
of the road and passing through the main street 
of the town, the route turns to the left across the 
railroad and over the Agawam River. Following 
along the open reaches of the river and again cross- 
ing its course the road enters 

31.5 East Wareham. Here it again crosses the 
river which on the left appears like a pond, and 
turns to the right, passing the post office on the 
right. 

32.3 At Onset Junction station, on the left, the 
road turns to the left and reaches the summer 
town of Onset which, gay and populous in August 
is almost deserted in October. Here the road 
skirts for a short distance the shores of Onset Bay, 
and soon crosses its head. 

35.3 At the bridge over the railroad is a good view 
at the right down the bay. Grey Gables, the 
former summer home of President Cleveland, is 
seen, about two miles down the bay, but at such a 
distance it is difficult to identify it among the 
many cottages of similar type which dot the shores. 

35.7 When crossing the mouth of Buttermilk Bay, 
at the right beyond the railroad is the home of 
General Taylor, chief owner of the Boston Globe. 



THE OLD COLONY 89 

36. The route now turns sharply to the right and a 
short distance beyond, bears to the left at Buzzards 
Bay station. 

36.6 At the right, just off the direct route, is the 
Town Hall of Bourne, with a Soldiers' monument 
before it, and just beyond it a bridge over the 
Cape Cod Canal. 

The direct route is by the north side of the canal. 

The road on the south side of the canal which is the 
route to all points on the cape, gives equally good views, 
and is not materially longer. Cape Cod Canal is about 
eight miles in length and carries eighteen feet of water. 
It saves some sixty miles of dangerous navigation between 
New York and Boston. The project was considered in 
early Colonial days and frequently revived, but was only 
brought to completion in 19 14. 

At this point the route to Falmouth and the south shore 
of Cape Cod with its numerous summer hotels, also 
crosses the railroad bridge to the right. 

On the northern and most direct route the road 

follows the line of the canal to 

41. Sagamore bridge, at which point there are 
large car works on the southern bank of the canal. 
Turning to the left here (the right leading to 
Cape Cod points), the route traverses a rolling, 
sparsely settled section to Plymouth. Though 
most of this region is wooded with small oaks and 
pines, there are occasional farms and cranberry 
bogs and a few views over Cape Cod Bay. 

44.1 At the extreme left a glimpse is had of Great 
Herring Pond. 

45.3 When descending a rather sharp grade we come 
upon the best view which the route affords of the 
broad expanse of the bay and the encircling arm 
of the cape beyond. This view deserves more than 




Plymouth Rock Monument 



THE OLD COLONY 91 

the mere glimpse which will be obtained if no stop 
is made, as the elevation is sufficient to make it 
particularly attractive. 
46. At the foot of the hill another view is obtained, 
but at about the level of the sea. Two miles be- 
yond is a third and last view of the bay. 

49.4 Passing Indian Hill farm the road soon skirts 
the shores of 

50.6 Fresh Pond, which is the terminus of the 
street railway line from Plymouth. After passing 
through the scattered village of Manomet the road 
climbs the long slope of Manomet Hill through the 
woods and upon descending the other side emerges 
upon a series of superb views over 

55.5 Plymouth Harbor and the adjacent waters. 
The long spit extending out from the south 

shore is Plymouth Beach; that stretching down 
to meet it from the north is Duxbury Beach, with 
the Gurnet lights upon its extremity. 

Within this upper bar lies Duxbury Bay in which 
is Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims spent their 
first Sabbath in the harbor. On this island is 
Pulpit Rock. 

Across the harbor rises the Myles Standish 
monument, topped with a figure of the valiant 
captain. This monument stands on Captain's 
Hill, Duxbury. Passing Hotel Pilgrim at the left, 
the route now enters 

t Plymouth (pop. 12,000), and the direct road passes 
straight through on the main street. A stop will 
naturally be made however, to visit the points 
of historical interest, among which are the following : 



92 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

58. Town square is at the left near the center of the 
town. Here are clustered the Town Hall, the 
Church of the Pilgrimage and First Church. 

Here also is the main entrace to Burial Hill, on 
which stood the first fort and watch tower of the 
Colony. 

In the burial ground are many ancient stones, with 
interesting and quaint inscriptions, the oldest being that 
of Edward Gray, a merchant who died in 1681. 

Turning at Town square from the main street to the 
right we enter Leyden street, on which were built the first 
houses in the town. 

At Carver street is the site (marked) of the first common- 
house where on February 27, 162 1, the Pilgrims exercised 
the right of popular suffrage "and Myles Standish was 
chosen Captain by a majority vote." 

At the foot of Leyden street we turn to the left along 
the water-front and soon reach Plymouth Rock. 

Opposite this, on Water street, is Cole's Hill, where 
those who died during the first winter were buried. The 
graves were levelled to prevent their number being dis- 
covered by the Indians, and the following spring wheat 
was sown as a further shield to the graves. This is at the 
foot of North street, through which we may regain the 
main street. The linden trees on the left as we pass up 
North street are more than 100 years old. 

Turning to the right on the main street (now Court) 
we pass the Court House, on the left, and at the corner 
of Chilton street on the right reach Pilgrim Hall, which 
contains a valuable collection of objects which are related 
more or less intimately to the history of the Colony and 
the lives of its important men. The "trusty sword of 
Damascus" which was so ably wielded by Myles Standish 
is here, with Peregrine White's cradle, John Alden's bible 
and many other interesting relics. 

Continuing along Court street a turn to the left on 
Cushman street and then to the right on Allerton, will 



THE OLD COLONY 93 




The Old Major John Bradford House 

bring us to the National monument to the forefathers 
on the summit of a hill which presents a broad and at- 
tractive view over the harbor and adjacent country. 

Returning now to the main street and resum- 
ing our route we follow Court street through North 
Plymouth, passing the extensive works of the 
Plymouth Cordage Company, on the right (60.6). 

Upon crossing Jones River at the entrance to Kingston 
a road at the right follows the river and leads to the un- 
marked house of Major John Bradford, which is elevated 
above the road, on the left, a little beyond the crossing 
under the railroad. This house was partly destroyed in 
King Philip's war and is further noted as being the house 
from which was loaned and lost the Bradford History 
which after an absence of more than 100 years was re- 
turned to the State of Massachusetts, from England, in 

1897. 

Turning to the left at the corner just beyond the house 
and crossing the railroad, Bradford's Lane is reached at 
the right. This lane leads to the site of the house of 
William Bradford who was the second governor of the 
colony. The site is marked by a boulder. Just beyond 
the lane the road rejoins the main route. 



94 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

63. Passing, on the direct road, through Kingston, 
the route crosses the railroad at the station. 

On the right is a nearer view of the Standish 
monument. 

66. The road leaving at the right leads to South 
Duxbury where Myles Standish and John Alden 
lived. 

66.5 A church and cemetery are passed in the woods 
on the left. 

67.5 The towers of the wireless station at Dux- 
bury are seen on the right. 

70.9 Marshfield. In the open triangle at the 
chiu^ch, as the route turns to the left, is a monument 
to Daniel Webster (d. 1852) whose home was in 
this vicinity. 

Upon crossing the railroad at Marshfield Centre 
station the route bears to the left, and again to 
the left at the next comer. 

Upon crossing over the railroad and passing 
East Marshfield station, the road bears sharply 
to the right and at the next comer turns again 
to the right. 
76.8 Overlooking Little*s Bridge from this point and 
the lowlands along North River, Scituate water 
tower is seen on the hills ahead. 

About a mile beyond Little's Bridge is the birth- 
place of Samuel Woodworth, the author of "The 
Old Oaken Bucket." 

77.8 As the route reaches the junction of several 
roads, the Woodworth cottage with its old well 
sweep is the third house at the left on Pond street 



THE OLD COLONY 95 

about one-half mile off the route. As the route 
turns here to the right, it passes between the 
"wide-spreading pond" and "the mill that stood 
by it." The old mill bears the date, 1640. 

78. At this point Greenbush station is over at the 
right. Passing through a part of Scituate with 
the water tower on the right, and the village of 
Egypt, the road bears sharply to the left at a 
prominent comer and crosses the railroad at 

82. North Scituate. A little beyond this crossing 
on the banks of Bound Brook, on the right, is the 
stone marking the boundary between the colonies 
of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay. This vicinity 
was the home of the family from which Abraham 
Lincoln is supposed to have been descended. 

82.5 Just beyond the bound stone on the left, a 
Httle above the road are two old houses still in 
possession of the Lincoln family. The little house 
standing farthest back from the road was built by 
Mordecai Lincoln, the first of the line in this country, 
for his son Isaac. The house of Mordecai is still 
standing, on the farther side of the pond, beyond 
the mill. 

84. Upon entering Cohasset, the green with its 
quaint church, is passed on the right. 

To reach the famous Jerusalem road with its extensive 
views over the sea, turn to the right a little beyond the 
green and upon reaching the shore, follow around to the 
left. Off shore at this point is Minot*s Ledge light, and 
the view to the northward looks across the mouth of 
Boston harbor to the North Shore as it stretches down 
toward Cape Ann. Running out from the mainland is 
the fNantaskftt peninsula. (See map, pages 48-49.) 



96 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Keeping ahead on the direct road, the route 
crosses the railroad (85.7), passes North Cohasset 
station and again crosses the railroad at Nantasket 
Junction (87.5). 

87.7 Turning to the left the route skirts the shores 
of Hingham Harbor and enters 

88.6 Hingham. This is one of the famous old 
towns of the State with a history extending back 
to the earliest days of the colonies. A short dis- 
tance off the route is the oldest church edifice 
standing in New England. 

To visit this "Old Ship" as it is called, turn to the left 
across the tracks at the station. The church, which has 
a central belfry, stands just beyond, on an elevation at 
the left, by the cemetery. 

Beyond the station, the route bears to the right. 

90.8 Cross Weymouth Back River. 

92.8 Weymouth Fore River. From the bridge, the 
Fore River Ship Building Works are on the left. 
Here many large vessels, including several battle- 
ships have been constructed. 

We now enter Quincy, which was the birthplace 
and home of two presidents and many other men 
of note. 

94.8 On approaching the center of the city the route 
passes the post office on the left and the Library on 
the right, and reaches the "Stone Temple" in the 
fork of the streets on the left. This is the Unitarian 
church in which the two presidents, John Adams 
and John Quincy Adams are buried. The building 
derives its name from the fact that it is built of 



THE OLD COLONY 



97 




material taken from a quarry given to the town 
by John Adams with the request that the stone 
be used for a "Temple." 

To visit the homes of the presidents, 
which are open to visitors, turn to the 
left around the Temple on Hancock 
street. About one-half mile down the 
street, on the left is Christ Church at 
the corner of Elm street, before which 
is a curious fountain embellished with 
figures and texts in the manner of a 
^^^sx"""" wayside shrine. Opposite this foun- 

~~lfMdarns School *^i^ ^^^^ ^^ *h® right, with the trolley 

wj!i^ line. Pass Adams school and turn to 

^P hSs^^ the left on Franklin street. The two 

\^ houses are on the right, at the junc- 

tion of Independence avenue. 

94.8 The direct road bears to the right at the "Tem- 
ple" on Hancock street. 

95. On the left at the fork of Hancock and Adams 
streets is Adams Academy, which stands on the 
site of the birthplace of John Hancock. 

To visit the fine old mansion of the Quincy family 
(3/10 mile), continue on Hancock street. The house is 
on the right next the High school. Here was born 
"Dorothy Q.," the wife of John Hancock. 

95. The route bears to the left on Adams street, and 
crosses over the railroad. Just beyond, on the 
right, at the corner of 

95.3 Newport avenue is a long, old-fashioned house 
with many chimneys. This is the "Golden Wed- 
ding House" so called because the golden weddings 
of John Adams, John Quincy Adams and Charles 
Francis Adams were celebrated here. 



98 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Upon approaching East Milton some of the 
Quincy granite quarries are seen at the left. On 
the top of Forbes Hill at the right, is a stone water 
tower. 

97. East Milton. The railroad which is crossed at 
the station, is about on the line of the first rail- 
road (horse-drawn) in this country, built in 1826 
to transport stone from the Quincy quarries for 
the construction of Bunker Hill monument. 

98. Continuing through on Adams street the view 
at the right looks out over Boston Harbor, and 
includes the tower of the Boston Custom House. 

98.8 Bearing to the right through Milton the road 
crosses the Neponset River, passing between the 
factories of the Baker Chocolate Company. 

98.9 The route immediately bears to the left and 
follows Morton street. 

100.4 Upon crossing Blue Hill avenue, the road 
passes between 

101.4 Austin and Pierce farms, both institutions 
for the insane. Beyond this, Franklin Park is 
on the right and Forest Hills cemetery on the left. 

102.5 At Forest Hills the road crosses directly under 
the elevated and steam railroads and ascends a 
shght grade beyond. On the left is Arnold Arbore- 
tum, in which is Bussey Institute, one of the de- 
partments of Harvard University. 

The route now continues through various sec- 
tions of the parkway system of Boston for about 
three miles, the sections merging one into another 
in a continuous roadway. 



THE OLD COLONY 



99 



104. Jamaica Pond is passed, on the left. After 
croSvSing trolley lines on Huntington and Brookline 
avenues, the end of the 

106.2 Riverway is reached at a second meeting with 
Brookline avenue. Crossing this avenue diagonally, 
the route enters Boylston street and passes, on 
the left, the American League baseball grounds, 
beyond which it bears to the left on one of the 
roads of the Fenway and crossing the railroad 
enters Commonwealth avenue, whence a right turn 
on Dartmouth street takes us to Copley square, 
t Boston (108). 

For the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 102. 

For Portsmouth and North Conway see page 1 16. 

For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway, page 135. 




"On a Stern and Rockbound Coast' 



VI 

From Massachusetts Bay to the White Hills 

(1) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., 138 Miles 

(2) Boston to North Conway, 152.5 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter IX 

There is little that can be said as to the advantages 
of one of these routes over the other as a means of 
reaching the White Mountains. The routes are of 
about equal length and each passes through a section 
of the country which has its own particular features 
of beauty and interest. 

If, however, the round trip is to be made from 
Boston to Boston, it is better, all things considered, 
to go by way of Plymouth and return by way of Con- 
way. In making the circuit in this direction, the 
grades are taken on their easier side both going and 
coming. 

Both routes traverse the State roads of Massa- 
chusetts, and each uses one of the great highways 
which New Hampshire has constructed for the benefit 
of the traveler to the White Hills. 

These New Hampshire roads, unlike any others in 
New England, are marked by bands of distinguishing 
color on the fence posts, telephone poles, etc., which 
entirely obviate the necessity of using running direc- 
tions unless it be in passing through the center of some 
of the cities. 

100 





0) 



102 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

(1) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., 138 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 201-216 
See map, pages 112-113 

o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs 
north on Dartmouth street and turns to the left 
on Commonwealth avenue or Beacon street. 

0.7 At Massachusetts avenue it turns to the right, 
crosses Charles River and enters Cambridge. 

2.2 At Central square it turns to the. right on 
Prospect street, which carries a car line. 

3.1 Turning halfway to the left on the concrete 
approach to a large railroad bridge, the route runs 
straight through Union square, Somerville. 

3.3 A little beyond the square the route turns to 
the right on Walnut street up a steep grade. Upon 
descending the grade it crosses Broadway, jogging 
a Httle to the right, and passes Broadway Park, 
on the right. 

4.4 At the end of the park it turns to the left on 
Mystic avenue. The buildings of Tufts College 
are seen on a hill above the Mystic trotting park. 

Crossing Mystic River, the route enters 

6.5 Medford square, and immediately turns to the 
left. On the corner at the right when making 
this turn, is the quaint old Seccomb house, now 
used for city offices, and just in the rear of this is a 
fine old garrison house of brick. 

6.7 On the left is the Armory and on the right the 
Library which occupies the house of Thacher 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 103 

Magoun, a noted Medford shipbuilder, who built 
his house as he did his ships. All the rooms save 
two of high stud which were intended for the social 
purposes of his wife, were made like a ship's cabins. 

7.6 On the right is the City farm. 

9.2 Entering the attractive residential town of 
Winchester, with the High school on the right, the 
route crosses the railroad near the station and soon 
enters 

1 1.6 Woburn. On the square at the left is a Civil 
War monument, a boulder monument to soldiers 
of the Spanish War and (under glass) a ventilator 
cowl of the battleship Maine. 

[3.7 Passing through North Woburn, the road 
winds over what has sometimes been called the 
snake route to Wilmington Junction, passes 

16.8 Silver Lake on the left and crosses the Shaw- 
shine River. 

When approaching Tewksbury, the State Alms- 
house is seen on the right. 

22.3 After running through this village the road 
crosses several railroad tracks at Wamesit, the 
Indian name for the region, and passing the Shedd 
playground on the left, enters 

26.6 Lowell (Pop. 106,000). This is a cotton 
manufacturing center, built around the mills which 
were established at Pawtucket Falls in 1823. 

At the entrance to the city, the route bears to 
the left on Rogers street, and turns to the right 
with a branch trolley line, on High street. At 
Church street it turns to the left and crosses the 



104 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Concord River. Turning to the right on Central 
street we reach the center of the city, and turn to 
the left on Merrimack street. 

27.4 A little after turning into Merrimack (main) 
street, we pass on the right, St. Anne's Episcopal 
Church, erected in 1824, "a monument to the 
religious purpose which animated the first manu- 
facturers." 

Lucy Larcom, who was a mill girl here about 
1840, says: "I admired the church greatly. I had 
never before seen a real one ; never anything but a 
plain frame meeting-house, and it was like a leaf 
out of an English story-book." 

Immediately beyond the church is one of the 
canals supplying power to the mills and just be- 
yond, as the route bears to the right on Moody 
street, is the statue of Victory, on the left, and a 
monument to Charles A. Taylor and others, the 
first to fall in defence of the Union at Baltimore, 
April 19, 1 86 1. 

27.5 Standing in the fork of the streets is City Hall, 
and directly beyond it the Library. 

28.1 We now cross what will probably be found to 
be the dry bed of the Merrimack River, all of the 
water being diverted by canals for the use of the 
great mills. The peculiar rock formations which 
are exposed are, however, of some interest, this 
portion of the river bed having carried the rapids 
below Pawtucket Falls. 

Beyond the river, the route turns to the left 
opposite the yellow brick buildings of the Lowell 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 105 

Textile School, and entering the Merrimack 
boulevard, the scene of former automobile races, 
follows the river closely for several miles. 

31. The village of North Chelmsford is on the op- 
posite side of the river. 

32.4 On Tyng's Island, at the left, is the home of 
the Vesper Country Club of Lowell. This island 
was the favorite dwelling place of Passaconaway, 
one of the most important of the New Hampshire 
Indian chiefs and of his son Wannalancet, the last 
sachem of the Merrimack River Indians. Both 
were faithful friends of the colonists. 

Just beyond this island, on the other side of the 
river, is seen a large yellow house standing on high 
land back from the road. This is the Jonathan 
Tyng estate. Here Hannah Dustin stopped on 
her return from Indian captivity in 1697. In 
the lane leading to the house stands a boulder 
monument to the memory of Wannalancet, who 
died here in 1696. 

34.7 Crossing Tyngsboro bridge and passing through 
the town, the road traverses a pleasant rolling 
country on a ridge above the river valley. 

36.8 The Massachusetts-New Hampshire State line 
is crossed, the boundary stone being on the left. 

37.2 A short distance beyond this, the tablet on the 
right marks the site of one of three early churches 
in Dunstable. The location of these churches 
shows something of the changes which have taken 
place in the centers of population since the days 
of the early settlements. 



106 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Dunstable, now a Massachusetts town lying 
west of Tyngsboro, formerly included the site of 
the present city of Nashua. 

37.8 At the old cemetery on the left — the oldest 
in New Hampshire west of Portsmouth — is a 
monument to a second church. 

39.8 On the left, opposite the beginning of a trolley 
line, is a third tablet, this marking the site of the 
first church in Dunstable. 

40.8 Entering Nashua, the route passes the John 
M. Hunt Home for aged couples, on the right. 

41.6 Nashua (Pop. 26,000) has large manufactories 
of shoes, cotton, etc. Just beyond the center of 
the city, the Nashua River is crossed. The brick 
building, just ahead, with a square tower and clock 
is the Public Library. 

This part of the city, beyond the river, was at 
one time incorporated as a separate town under 
the name of Nashville, as the result of a quarrel 
in regard to the location of the Town Hall. 

Leaving the Soldiers' monument on the left, the 
route passes through a part of the best residential 
section of the city. 

43.9 The pumping station of Nashua's water system 
is on the left. 

47.4 Thornton's Ferry. At the cross-roads on the 
right, is a monument erected by the State in 
memory of Matthew Thornton, a signer of the 
Declaration of Independence. 

48.9 Running by a bend of the river, the road passes 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 107 

through Merrimack village, where the Souhegan 
River is crossed. 

50.8 The only village in the next ten miles is that 
of Reed's Ferry. A Httle west of this place is the 
birthplace of Walter Kittredge, the author of 
"Tenting on the Old Camp Ground." 

58.5 The route now turns to the right and enters 
Second street, 

Manchester (Pop. 70,000). This, the largest 
city of New Hampshire, is a great cotton manu- 
facturing center, the mills standing in solid ranks 
along the river which has here a fall of about 
fifty feet. 

This was formerly a great resort of the Indians 
and the home of one of the tribes who called it 
Namoskeag (fishing place) or Amoskeag, as the 
falls are now known. In the days of the early 
settlements also, the fisheries at this point were a 
valuable asset. It is said that the shad were 
so thick as to crowd each other in their passage 
up the falls, "so that you could not put in your hand 
without touching some of them." 

Turning to the right on Granite street, at the end 
of Second, the route crosses the river, and affords 
a view of a portion of the imm.ense mills. 

59.1 Passing the railroad station on the right, 

the route turns to the left on Elm (main) street, 

and passes through the business center of the city. 

Turning to the right on Webster street, the route 

leaves the city. 

66.7 A few miles beyond Manchester, the tower on 



108 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Hooksett Pinnacle is seen straight ahead, and 
soon comes more prominently into view. 
67.8 On the right is St. Mary*s Roman Catholic 
School for girls. 

Just beyond, on the right, opposite a road com- 
ing in from the left, is a well preserved mile-stone 
bearing the date 1790, and giving the distances to 
Haverhill thirty-two, and Chester, sixteen miles. 

69.4 At the top of a grade, on the right, is an almost 
undecipherable mile-stone, bearing the date 1790. 

71. At the village of Suncook, the route crosses the 
Suncook River, a brawling stream which furnishes 
power for many mills. 

A Httle beyond the village, at the top of the ridge, 
on the right, is a third mile-stone, this one dated 
1793, and bearing the letters D. K., these being 
undoubtedly the initials of the keeper of the tavern 
before which it stood. The hitching ring in this 
stone is an unusual feature. 

73.1 Passing through Pembroke, the route soon 
crosses the Merrimack and enters 

76.8 t Concord (Pop. 21,500). This is the capital 
of New Hampshire. At 52 South Main street, 
through which the route enters the city, is the 
former home of President Franklin Pierce, on the 
left. The house is marked by a stone on the 
lawn, and a companion stone in the same grounds 
marks the site of an old garrison house. 

78. At the center of the city is the State House, 
surrounded by other public buildings. 

Opposite the State buildings is the Eagle Hotel. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 109 

In front of the Capitol, the grounds of which 
are entered through a Soldiers' memorial archway, 
are statues of Franklin Pierce (erected in 19 14), 
General Stark, Daniel Webster and John P. Hale, 
the first avowed anti-slavery member of the United 
States Senate. 

On the right of the Capitol is the State Library 
and behind it the Post Office, Historical Building, 
City Hall and a statue of Com. George H. Perkins, 
whom Farragut called "the bravest man that 
ever trod the deck of a ship." 

A mile west of the center of the city on Pleasant street, 
is Pleasant View, the former home of Mrs. Mary Baker 
Eddy, and a little beyond, at the right, is a monument 
marking the site of an Indian massacre in 1746. 

Farther out on the same road is St. Paul's school for boys. 

79.7 Bearing to the left beyond the center of the 
city, the route passes the State Prison. 

84.2 At the village of Penacook the road crosses 
the Contoocook River. At the junction of this 
stream with the Merrimack is Dustings Island, 
where Hannah Dustin, in 1697, killed her Indian 
captors, and from whence she made her way by 
canoe to her home at Haverhill. 

84.6 On the right is an old inn, bearing the date 
1787. 

86.4 At the entrance to Boscawen, in the rear of the 
first house in the village, on the right, is a boulder 
marking the site of the Old Fort which was 100 
feet square and built of hewn logs. The site chosen 
for this fort, like that of some of the forts which 



no FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

were erected along the Connecticut River, is a 
bench dropping sharply to the river bottom. 
86.8 A httle further on, at the right, are two tablets, 
one marking the site of the birthplace of Gen. 
John Dix, 1798, and the other the site of the old 
law office of Daniel Webster, whose birthplace was 
in Salisbury, a few miles at the left of the route. 

General Dix was in the War of 18 12, at the age of 
fourteen; was a Lieutenant at sixteen, a lawyer, Post- 
master of New York and Assistant Treasurer of the United 
States. As Secretary of the Treasury under Buchanan 
he sent to New Orleans the famous message: ".If anyone 
attempts to haul down the American flag, shoot him on 
the spot." He was prominent in the Civil War, the first 
president of the Union Pacific RR, Minister to France 
and Governor of New York. The late Rev. Morgan Dix, 
rector of Trinity Church, New York, was his son. 

90.8 At Gerrish is the Merrimack County farm. 

93.9 On the right at Webster Place station, is an 
Orphan's Home and School. The original house 
in this group of buildings is Elm farm, one of the 
homes of Daniel Webster from 1800 to 1852. 
In front of the house is a boulder bearing an 
appropriately inscribed tablet. 

96.4 The route now enters f Franklin, where the Mer- 
rimack River is formed by the junction of the 
. Pemigewasset and the Winnepesaukee. 

The road straight ahead leads to Bristol and 
Newfound Lake. 

The main route doubles upon itself to the right, 
crosses the Pemigewasset and passes through 
FrankHn Falls, following the course of the Win- 
nepesaukee. (See map, pages 208-209.) 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS HI 

98. At the top of the hill just beyond the town, is 
a tablet on the left calling attention to a stone 
mortar which was used by the Abenaki Indians 
and the pioneer settlers for grinding corn, etc. 
This samp mortar is contained in the first boulder 
or out-cropping of ledge directly behind the tablet, 
and is well worth a visit. 
100. Tilton. This is perhaps the most profusely 
embellished town of its size in New England. At 
the entrance to the village is a park (overgrown) 
on the left, with statues; at the railroad station 
is a fountain surmounted by the figure of an Indian ; 
behind the station is a statue of "Squantum, Chief, 
1620;" a little further on is another fountain with 
an Indian and at the end of the town, on the right, 
is an island park (overgrown) with more statues. 

Above the town on the summit of a steep hill 
at the right is the Tilton memorial arch, fifty-five 
feet high, a private memorial of the Tilton family. 

On the hill above the town at the left, is Tilton 
Seminary, with a clock in its tower. At the left 
as the road passes the island park, is the Tilton 
residence, on the brow of the hill above the road. 

The route now enters the lake region and presents 
an almost unbroken series of superb views. 

1 01. 1 The Belknap mountains, which lie to the 
south of Lake Winnepesaukee, are ahead at the 
right. On the right is Little Bay, followed closely 
by Sanbornton Bay, both enlargements of the Winne- 
pesaukee River. 

106.5 At Winnesquam bridge, vSan*bornton Bay is at 
the right and Lake Winnesquam at the left. 



To Portsmouth 




112 



Continued on puy^^ ^a 49 UPPER METI 



Newburyport 




AN BOSTON 



113 



114 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



«(!•' V'f „|-e ^i(f^ 
/ f^edHiii \ 




y^OiSffiee 



5dr?cf^v/c/? /^an^e from h^/nnepesdukee Ouf/er 

Beyond the lake rise Red Hill and the mountains 
of the Sandwich range. Over Mt. Israel, which 
seems to be the left-hand section of Red Hill, are 
Sandwich Dome and Tri-pyramid, its side scarred 
by a double slide. Over Red Hill rise Mt. Whiteface 
and Passaconaway, while still further to the right 
is the rounded Toad Back or Paugus Mountain 
and the sharp peak of Chocorua. This is followed 
by the nearer Ossipee range, the highest peak 
of which is Mt. Shaw. 

The Sandwich mountains have an elevation of 
about 4,000 feet. 
109.4 fLaconia and the adjoining town of Lakeport 
are manufacturing places obtaining water power 
from the Winnepesaukee River. One of the 
principal manufactories is the Laconia Car Works. 
Upon leaving Lakeport, the road follows closely 
the shores of Long Bay. 
1 1 5.7 Lake Winnepesaukee (elevation 500 feet). 
On the right at the crossing of the outlet of the 
lake, is Endicott's Rock, protected by a canopy 
which is surmounted by the figure of an Indian 
looking away across the lake. This rock was 
marked in 1652 by surveyors sent out by Governor 
Endicott to determine the headwaters of the 
Merrimack river and bears the Governor's name, 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 115 

the initials of the surveyors and commissioners, 
and the date. A large modern tablet behind the 
rock within the canopy, recites the story of the 
expedition. 

At this point also was located the fish weir, 
by means of which the Indians were accustomed 
to take great quantities of shad as they ran into 
and out of the lake. 

Just ahead on the right, is the village of Weirs, 
but this the route does not enter, keeping instead 
straight ahead up the hills and obtaining grand 
views of Winnepesaukee and the mountains of 
the Sandwich and Ossipee ranges. 
1 1 8. At the highest point, Whiteface and Passacon- 
away are seen over Red Hill, with Chocorua just 
to the right. 

1 19.3 Below, at the left, is Lake Waukewan. 
Descending a steep grade, the railroad is crossed 

at Meredith station and the route leads straight 
through the village. 
124.7 The road now skirts the shores of Squam Lake 
for some distance, passes White Oak Pond on the 
left and at 

128.4 t Holderness follows the shores of Little Squam, 
furnishing a succession of most attractive views. 

132.5 At Ashland, the route turns sharply to the 
right and soon rejoins the Pemigewasset River, 
which was crossed at Franklin. 

134. 1 After crossing the Pemigewasset, the road 

follows the intervales of the river to 
138.3 t Plymouth. (Elevation 473 feet.) 

(Continued through the White Mountains on page 148.) 



116 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



(2) Boston to North Conway, 152.5 Miles 
The Shore Route to Portsmouth 

Reverse description on pages 179-200 
See map, pages 112-113 

o. Boston, Copley square. Running north on Dart- 
mouth street, the route turns to the left on Com- 
monwealth avenue or Beacon street. At Massa- 
chusetts avenue, it turns to the right, crosses the 
Charles River and enters Cambridge. 

2.2 At Central square it turns to the right on 
Prospect street which carries a car line. 

3.1 Turning to the left across a large railroad bridge, 
it runs straight through Union square, Somerville. 

3.3 A little beyond the square, the route turns to 
the right on Walnut street, up a steep grade. 

Upon descending the grade, it crosses Broadway, 
jogs a little to the right and (4.2) passes Broadway 
park on the right. 

Entering the Metropolitan park system, the 
route crosses Mystic River and turning to the right 
beyond, enters the Revere Beach boulevard (5.2) . 

6.4 Everett. Passing through the borders of the 
settled portion of this town, the main part of 
Chelsea lies at the right with the U. S. Marine 
Hospital appearing prominently on one of the hills. 

Straight ahead is Powder-Horn Hill. After 
skirting the shoulder of this hill, the Soldiers* 
Home is seen on the summit, at the right. 
9. At the first (left) curve beyond the spice mill, is a 
tablet on the right, marking the scene of an engage- 
ment in the Revolution at which Israel Putnam 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 117 

won the first commission as Major General granted 
by the Provincial Congress. 

I0.2 Revere Beach. While running along the beach, 
Nahant lies at the right, across the bay; the State 
Bath-house, of brick, is passed on the left, and the 
Point of Pines is at the end of the beach. 

13.6 Crossing Saugus River, Lynn is seen straight 
ahead. The square tower is on High Rock, in the 
center of the city, and commands a fine view. 

At the left, beyond the railroads, are the works 
of the General Electric Company. 

15.2 Lynn (Pop. 89,000), is a center for the manu- 
facture of women's shoes. 

Bearing to the right at the station (with clock) 
of the narrow gauge Boston & Revere Beach RR, 
the route keeps straight through. 

15.6 At an open triangle on the right, is the build- 
ing of the Lynn Women's Clubs. 




The Rocky Shore at Marblehead, Mass. 



118 MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 

The following detour will be necessary while Paradise 
Road is under repair during 19 15. 

The road at the right leads to the Lynn Shore Drive, 
which may be followed through Swampscott to Marble- 
head or Salem. On this detour one follows the old 
Puritan road, passing several shore resort hotels, most 
prominent among which are the New Ocean House at 
Swampscott and Hotel Preston at Beach Bluff. 

The direct route keeps straight ahead on the 
smooth paving. 

16.7 At t Swampscott it jogs left and right and then 
continues on Paradise road. Upon approaching 
Salem, after crossing the railroad, some distance 
over at the left may be seen the High School v^hich 
is located near Gallows Hill, where the "witches" 
were hanged. The yellow brick buildings of the 
State Normal School are on the right. 

20. The road from Marblehead rejoins the main route. 
The route now passes through the heart of the 
district devastated by the great fire of 19 14, and 
reaches the center of (see map, page 120) 

Salem (Pop. 43,700). This is called the Witch 
City, and contains many points of interest, a few 
of which are located directly on the route. 

2 1 . 1 On the right in a small open square is a statue 
of Father Matthew, the Apostle of Temperance. 

21.2 The route turns to the right on the narrow 
main street (Essex) of the city and immediately 
to the left on St. Peter's street. 

On Essex street opposite the head of St. Peter's, 
with a large anchor before it, is the East India 
Marine Hall and Museum,with excellent collections. 

21.3 Turning immediately to the right at the 
venerable St. Peter's Church, we pass the rear 




The Old "Witch" or Roger Williams House at Salem 



120 



FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



of the armory and, just beyond, the Nathaniel 
Ward house erected in 1684, and now standing 
on the grounds of the Essex Institute. 
21.4 At the end of Brown street, the statue of 
Roger Conant, an early settler, is passed on the 
right. Here, on Washington square, are several 
substantial homes erected by the sea merchants 
a century ago, one of which is occupied by the 
Salem Club. At the boulder monument to soldiers 
of the Civil War, the route turns to the left and then 
to the right on Bridge street. 



BEST ROUTE THROUGH 

SALEM, MASS. 




Other points of interest off the direct route, the loca- 
tion of which is shown on the map above, are: 

2. Witch, or Roger Williams house, on Essex street. 

3. The Court House, in which are shown the witch pins. 

4. Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street. 

5. The Custom House, where Hawthorne worked. 

6. The House of the Seven Gables, Turner street. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 121 

22.4 From the bridge between Salem and Beverly, 
the State Asylum for the insane is seen on a hill 
far at the left, up the Danvers River, and Salem 
Willows, a shore resort, on the right. 

22.7 Beverly (Pop. 18,600). This is a well-known 
resort for people of wealth, the shore line from here 
to Gloucester, fourteen miles, being almost wholly 
occupied by summer homes. During the admin- 
istration of President Taft, it was the summer 
capital. The route passes through a particularly 
unattractive section of the city, bearing to the left 
on Rantovil street, with a branch trolley line soon 
after crossing the bridge. 

To visit the shore, keep straight ahead on Cabot (main) 
street, turning to the right at the next corner. This trip 
takes in the North Shore resorts of Magnolia, the Ocean- 
side Hotel, and Gloucester, The Moorland (See map, 
pages 112-113.) 

On Rantoul street, the route passes the post 
office on the right, and railroad station on the 
left. 

23.9 At the end of the street it turns to the left and 
follows the trolley line. 

24.1 On the left are the factories of the United Shoe 
Machinery Company, 1,220 feet long. 

On hills at the right are Beverly Hospital and 
Salem Reservoir. 

25.2 Just beyond the brick fire engine house, where 
the route turns to the right, is a tablet, on the left, 
marking the site of the first cotton mill in America, 
which was visited by Washington in 1789. 



122 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

26.7 Wenham Lake, on the left, at North Beverly, 
is the source of early shipments of ice to England. 
Thackeray says: "Everybody (of the genteel 
world, of course) has the same everything in London. 
You see the same coats, the same dinners, the same 
boiled fowls. . . and the same lumps of Wenham 
Lake ice." 

27. The boulder monument at the side of the lake 
commemorates a sermon preached on this spot 
by Hugh Peters in 1636. 

27.2 Immediately beyond, at the cemetery, on the 
right, is a quaint milestone erected in 17 10, bearing 
the inscription: "Job 30:23. For I know that Thou 
wilt bring me to death and to the house appointed 
for all living." 

27.7 Opposite Wenham Church is another mile- 
stone, and still another one-half mile beyond, both 
on the right. 

29. Soon after crossing the railroad at Hamilton- 
and-Wenham station, the polo grounds of the 
Myopia Club are on the right, and immediately 
beyond, on the left, next to the schoolhouse, is 

29.4 The former home of Gail Hamilton (Mary A. 
Dodge) a writer during and after the Civil War. 

29.9 Hamilton Church. Rev. Manasseh Cutler, 
who was largely instrumental in fostering the 
immigration which settled Ohio, was pastor here. 

30.3 A little beyond the church, on the left, is the 
residence of George von- L. Meyer, former Secretary 
of the Navy. The house is of terra-cotta, with an 
Italian garden beyond. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 123 

31.3 Beyond the three-corners where the road turns 
sharply to the left, is the residence of Congressman 
Gardner. The buildings are on the right, dark 
red. Glimpses only are had of the house. 

32.3 On the left is another old mile-stone. 

32.6 The inscription on Appleton's Bridge recites 
the stages of its construction. 

33.7 On the culvert over a brook at the entrance to 
Ipswich, on the right, is the following in regard 
to the road traversed: "This road, from Rowley 
to Salem, was laid out in the year 1640 by order 
of the General Court. It was then known as the 
Bay Road, and was the first road thus authorized." 

33.9 Entering f Ipswich, the tablet at the head of 
the green, marks the site of an early church. The 
route follows the trolley line through the town. 

36.4 Midway between Ipswich and Rowley is the 
pumping station of the Ipswich water-works, on 
the left. 

38. Rowley is the seat of Dummer Academy. 
41.7 Approaching Parker River bridge, the Oldtown 
Hills lie directly ahead across the river. 

42.2 After crossing the bridge, on the left, is an 
attractive monument erected to the first settlers 
of Newbury, who landed near this spot in 1635. 

43. Rounding the shoulder of Oldtown Hill, the 
view at the right includes the sand dunes and 
cottages on Plum Island and the mouth of the 
Merrimack River. 

44.7 At Oldtown Upper Green, on the left, is a 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 125 

monument marking one of the camping places of 
the forces of Benedict Arnold on the expedition to 
Quebec in 1775, and a monument to Newbury 
soldiers of the Civil War. 

Near the church is a group of old houses; on 
the left the house of Henry Sewall, built about 
1678; next beyond the church, the Tristam Coffin 
house where was born Whittier's schoolmaster. 
45.1 Just beyond is the Ilsley house and opposite, 
the Tappan house, both built before the Revolution. 

fNewburyport (Pop. 15,000) has many points 
of interest. High street, upon which the route 
enters, runs the length of the city and is one of 
the fine streets of New England. 

The old Wolfe Tavern is at the right, on State street. 
45.8 At the head of the "mall" is a bronze statue of 
Washington by J. Q. A. Ward, who also made the 
Washington which stands before the sub-treasury 
in Wall street, New York. 

Off the route is the mansion of "Lord" Timothy Dex- 
ter, on High street, a little above the railroad; on Federal 
street is the church, beneath the pulpit of which is buried 
George Whitefield, the renowned Calvanistic preacher, 
and behind this church is the birthplace of William Lloyd 
Garrison. Chain Bridge, the first suspension bridge in 
America, spans the Merrimack two miles above the rail- 
road, at which point, on an island, is the home of Harriet 
Prescott Spofford. 

Upon meeting a trolley line the route turns to 
' the right with it on Winter street and passes the 
railroad station, on the left. 
46.5 Crossing the Merrimack River, the route 
continues through 



126 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

48.5 Salisbury. 

At this point the shore route by way of Salisbury, 
Hampton and fRye Beaches, leaves to the right, but it is 
not recommended on account of its chronic state of un- 
comfortable roughness. To speak quite frankly the 
New Hampshire beach as a whole seems to promise more 
than it fulfills, and the more attractive part at Rye, with 
the Farragut in its setting of gnarled old trees, is better 
reached by turning off at Hampton (56.0), returning by 
way of Rye Center, when the rougher parts and sharper 
turns are thus avoided. The map on page 186 shows 
the three routes. 

51.0 After passing through a pine grove at a promi- 
nent four-corners, the Hne between Massachusetts 
and New Hampshire is crossed. The boundary 
stone is on the left. 

51. 1 Smithtown, a trolley junction, is at the en- 
trance to Seabrook. This is an elongated village, 
chiefly noted for its automobile traps. 

54.1 Hampton Falls adjoins Seabrook. Opposite 
an old brick building, is the Wells homestead, 
"Elmfield," often visited by the poet Whittier. 

54.2 Just beyond, on the left, is a monument erected 
by the State to Meshech Weare, the first President 
of New Hampshire. 

55. Beyond Hampton Falls, the line of cottages at 
Hampton Beach is seen across the marshes at the 
right. 

56. Hampton. At the entrance to this town, just 
after crossing the railroad the road turns sharply 
to the left around an old "haunted" house. This 
was the residence of Gen. Jonathan Moulton, who 
owned large tracts of land on the northern shores of 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 127 

Lake Winnepesaukee. His wealth was reputed to 
have been obtained by the sale of his soul to the 
Evil One for as much gold as could be contained in 
his great top boots. The General was supposed to 
have placed the boots in one of the fireplaces of the 
house to receive the gold as it was poured down the 
chimney. 

Leaving Hampton, the route into Portsmouth 
passes through a farming and wooded country. 

60.5 After crossing the second railroad bridge, the 
route skirts the shoulder of Breakfast Hill, Green- 
land, so named because in 1696 a band of Indians 
was attacked here while at breakfast and defeated. 

61.6 The spires of Portsmouth are now seen, and 
directly ahead is Mount Agamenticus, at York, Me. 

62.7 The extensive estate on the right is * 'Win- 
chester*' farm. 

The road to the right, "Elwyn road," next left joining the 
trolley and next right leaving the tracks, leads to Newcastle 
Island and The Wentworth, a large summer hotel which 
was the headquarters of the Russo-Japanese Peace Com- 
missioners in 1905. The conferences, however, were held 
in the Naval stores room at Kittery, across the river. 
6 7 . The route now enters f Portsmouth, a city having 
a population of 11,000, and possessing many quaint 
features and places of interest. A few of these will 
amply repay the tourist for the shght detour 
necessary to visit them. (See next page.) 

To pass directly through the city and on to the 
White Mountains, it is only necessary to follow the 
yellow bands which mark the route of the State 
road. 



128 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

To visit Portsmouth's chief points of interest. 

Turning to the right from the main route, on State 
street, the house on the corner at the left is where Admiral 
John Paul Jones resided. In this port he fitted out the 
Ranger in 1777, and the America in 1781. 

At the Post Office, turn to the right and at the next 
street (Court), to the left. On the corner at the right 
when making this turn, is the Governor Langdon house, 
a mansion which Washington called the best house in 
town. Here was entertained Louis Phillippe, afterwards 
King of France, Lafayette, John Hancock, and many 
other notables. 

Continuing down Court street, the "Nutter" house 
(marked) is on the right. This is the birthplace of Thomas 
Bailey Aldrich, and the house of which he wrote in the 
"Story of a Bad Boy". The house is now the Aldrich 
Memorial, and is open to visitors in the summer. 

Turn to the left a little beyond the Nutter house, on 
Chapel street, and continue to Daniels (City Hall). On 
the right-hand upper corner stands the Warner house, 
a three-storied brick building of fine Colonial type. Built 
in 1 7 12 of material brought from Holland, it was the first 
brick house in Portsmouth. The lightning rod is said 
to have been installed in 1762 under the personal super- 
vision of Benjamin Franklin. 

Just beyond, on Chapel street, St. John's Church 
stands at the top of Church Hill. The church, formerly 
known as Queen's Chapel, is open to visitors and retains 
a distinct flavor of the old sea-port. Among other pos- 
sessions are two mahogany chairs presented by Queen 
Caroline in 1732, and a curious font of porphyritic marble, 
brought from Africa in 1758. From this church, in 
accordance with the terms of a bequest made by one of 
the early parishioners. Col. Theodore Atkinson, a portion 
of bread is distributed every Sunday morning after the 
service, to the poor of the parish. In the burying ground 
adjoining the church is the tomb of Governor Wentworth 
and many other interesting memorials. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 129 

Retracing our way on Chapel street and turning to 
the right on Daniels, we soon reach Market square at 
center of the city. Here the Atheneum is on the right. 

67.5 From Market square the route runs straight 
ahead on Congress street, shortly turning to the 
right on Vaughan, passing No. 32, the house where 
Daniel Webster brought his bride in 1808. 

Crossing the railroad near the station the route 
leaves the city, keeping straight ahead as the trolley 
leaves to the left after crossing the mill pond. 

69.2 On the left is the estate formerly occupied by 
Frank Jones, a wealthy brewer. 

71. From the brow of the hill is an attractive view 
of the valley of the Piscataqua River and the hills 
beyond. Mt. Agamenticus is seen at the right. 

72.2 When crossing the toll bridge between Newing- 
ton and Dover Point, Great Bay lies on the left and 
the Piscataqua River on the right. This river forms 
the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine 
for several miles. 

78. Dover (Pop. 13,000) is the seat of large cotton 
and woolen mills. The Cocheco Mills are on the 
right in the center of the city. 

Dover is the oldest place in New Hampshire, 
having been settled in the spring of 1623. 

78.7 Just beyond the mills is a memorial fountain 
in the center of an open square. 

The railroad station is on the left at the crossing. 

79.7 Passing the hospital on the right, the route 
follows the trolley line almost to the center of 

83.5 Somersworth, where it turns sharply to the left. 



130 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

85.5 After regaining the old direct road from Dover, 
the route begins the ascent of a long hill, from the 
top of which is a wide view, embracing many of 
the lower mountains in the vicinity of Milton. 
In very clear weather, Mt. Washington is seen. 
At the foot of the hill lies the city of 

90.1 Rochester. In the center of the city is a 
monument to Rev. Amos Main, "the first settled 
minister of the Congregational Church in the 
Province of Rochester, 173 7-1760." The route 
leaves this monument on the left. 

The left-hand road at this point leads directly to Lake 
Winnepesaukee, see maps, pages 176-177. 

95. At North Rochester (Hayes' Crossing) the 

stream on the right is the dividing line between 

New Hampshire and Maine. 

98.2 At Milton are large ice harvesting plants and 
many summer camps on Milton ponds, at the right. 

From Plummer's Ridge, beyond Milton, the 
hills at the left are the Teneriffe Mountains (1,100 
feet). 

104. Passing through Union the road skirts the base 
of the Middleton Mountains and at 

109. Sanbornville, ascends a steep hill from the 
summit of which Mt. Shaw of the Ossipee range 
appears ahead and at the left. 

109.8 Wakefield. After crossing the railroad at 
the station, the route reaches an elevation of about 
1,000 feet, the highest point touched until after 
it passes Bartlett, more than fifty miles above. 

1 12.5 When nearing the summit of this ridge, the 
Belknap Range, on the further side of Lake Win- 
nepesaukee, is seen at the left. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 131 

1 13.8 On the descent from this ridge, the first views 
of the northern mountains are obtained, including 
(in a clear day) the White Mountains proper. The 
peak of Mt. Chocorua in the Sandwich Range, is 
directly ahead at the beginning of the descent. 

116. A mile beyond North Wakefield (Matthews 
station) the road crosses the railroad and ascends 
a steep grade. (See map, pages 208-9.) 




Looking North from 55/ pee 

1 16.8 From the elevation thus reached, is an ex- 
cellent mountain view ahead, embracing the 
Ossipee, Sandwich and Presidential ranges. 

1 19.5 At the entrance of fOssipee village, the build- 
ings of the county farm are seen at the left. 

121. On the right is Duncan Lake, one of the 
favorite bass-fishing resorts of President Cleveland. 

123. The view overlooks Ossipee Lake. At the 
right of the lake rises Green Mountain. 

After passing through Centre Ossipee, the 
Bear camp Mountains, forming the eastern end of 
the Ossipee Range, come nearly to the road. 

126.8 In the first open meadow at the right, beyond 
a white farm house, is a mound believed to cover 
the grave of Indians killed in battle with Captain 
Lovell's band of Indian fighters in 1725. LovelPs 
Fort was at the further end of the field. 



132 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

127. The small stream now crossed is Lo veil's River. 

A narrow road at the right at the top of a Httle hill 
just beyond this stream, leads {% mile) to Ossipee Lake. 

128. At the railroad crossing (Lake wood station) 

Mt. Washington lies directly up the track. 

After crossing the Bearcamp River, the Ossipee 
Mountains are seen at the left as the road crosses 
the intervale to 

13 1.3 West Ossipee (Whittier station). Eleva- 
tion 470 feet. Here on a slight knoll on the left 
(as a road from the left comes in along the river) 
stood the hotel where the poet Whittier spent many- 
summers. A favorite seat was among the willow 
trees below the hotel site, at the left. 

Among his poems of this immediate locality are 
"Among the Hills," "Sunset on the Bearcamp" 
and * ' Voyage of the Jettie. ' * 

133.5. Moore's Pond is seen at the right. 

After passing through Chocorua village the road 
ascends sharply and reaches the point from which 
the best known view of Chocorua Mountain and 
Lake is obtained. 

136.5 The road now skirts Chocorua Lake, and soon 
presents a new view of the mountain, with its house 
perched upon the ledges. 

1 4 1. 5 A glimpse of Knowles Pond is had on the 
right. 

145.2 When nearing the village of Conway, Mt. 
Kearsarge, with a house on its summit, appears 
directly ahead. 



MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 133 

146.7 At Conway the Presidential Range appears 
across the valley of the Saco and upon leaving 
the village and crossing the river, Moat Mountain, 
and the L-edges^ White Horse and Humphrey's — 
are at the left. 

At the right are the Redstone quarries on the 
extremity of the Rattlesnake Mountains. 

152.5 t North Conway (Elevation 520 feet). This 
is caUed the "Gateway of the Mountains," and has 
long been a popular resort. The broad intervales 
of the Saco enclosed by the Rattlesnake Range on 
the east, Mt. Kearsarge (3,270 feet) and Mt. 
Bartlett on the north, and the Ledges on the west, 
overtopped by Moat Mountain, make an attractive 
series of pictures. 

There are many points of interest in the vicinity, 
among which are Echo Lake, at the foot of White 
Horse Ledge; the Cathedral, at Cathedral Ledge; 
and Diana^s Baths, at Humphrey's Ledge. 

At t Intervale, two miles above are the Cathedral 
Woods, an attractive grove of large pines, entered 
at the railroad station. Here, also, is The Inter- 
vale, a popular hotel. 

Continued through the White Mountains in Chapter 
VIII, page 159. 




from the Jnterva/e, North Conivay 



The Wentworth at New Castle, N. H. 

VII 

Through Lower Maine 
Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter IX 

The construction of State roads in Maine is in its 
infancy, but the work is being prosecuted earnestly 
and there are many stretches of excellent highways. 

The main entrance into the State by way of Ports- 
mouth, which was for years a remarkably poor road 
now furnishes to the automobiling tourist a comforta- 
ble and pleasant drive. 

Between Portland and the White Mountains the 
road conditions are still susceptible of great improve- 
ment, but when this is effected the route will be de- 
servedly popular, as there is an almost entire absence 
of even such grades as are encountered on the direct 
White Mountain route from Portsmouth. The rise 
from sea-level at Portland to the 500 feet elevation of 
North Conway is gradual and without intervening 
ridges of any considerable height. 

The views of the mountains are excellent, and offer 
new contours to those who have only approached this 
side of the mountains by the direct route from Ports- 
mouth. 

134 



THROUGH LOWER MAINE 135 



Portsmouth to Portland, 64.2, and North Conway, 
117.7 Miles 

Reversed on page 170. Map on page 174 

o. Leaving Portsmouth by Market street the route 
crosses the Piscataqua River and enters Kittery, 
Maine. 

0.6 From the old toll bridge the large mill seen at 
the left is a plant erected and fitted for the manu- 
facture of paper, but never used. 

Down the river glimpses are had of the Navy 
Yard and of Seavey's Island beyond, where many 
Spanish war captives were quartered. The con- 
ferences which terminated the Russo-Japanese war 
were held at the Navy Yard. 

The route does not follow the shore line, but runs 
for a few miles straight across an open farming 
country. 

3.4 On the left is Mt. Agamenticus. Although of no 
great elevation, this hill affords a wide and im- 
pressive view embracing the shore line from Cape 
Ann to Cape Elizabeth and often including the 
White Mountains. The summit is the legendary 
burial place of St. Aspenquid, an Indian prophet 
and saint. 

On the line between Kittery and York lived 
Esther Brooks and Betty Potter, who by reason of 
the location of their abode are said to have escaped 
the payment of taxes in either town. When in 



136 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

1837 President Jackson caused to be divided the 
surplus revenue of the nation among the inhabi- 
tants of the United States these ladies, it is believed, 
were the only people in America who failed to 
receive their respective shares. 

6.0 The road crosses York River and bears to the 
right at York Corners. (7. 5".) 

8.5 At York Village the church and town house are 
on the left. Directly opposite, on an elevation 
somewhat back from the road, is the old York Jail 
built in 1653, preserved at the suggestion of .William 
Dean Howells,and containing an interesting collec- 
tion of relics. 

It was intended by Sir Ferdinand Gorges, by 
whom the place was founded, that York should 
become a great city, and under the name of 
Gorgeana it was the first place in America to 
receive a city charter from England. 

8.5 Bearing to the right at the Soldiers' monument, 
the left-hand road being a short cut to York Beach, 
the route passes York Harbor post office on the 
right, and soon bears to the left by Trinity Church. 

10.4 Ahead on the right is Cape Neddick with its 
lighthouse on the Nubble, and Boon Island light 
rises from the sea straight off shore. Stretching 
around toward Cape Neddick is the long curve of 
t York Beach. 

12.9 A little beyond the end of the beach, as the 
road curves to the left after crossing the base of the 
cape, the rocky shore of f York Cliffs, with the Pas- 
saconaway Inn, is ahead on the right. 



THROUGH LOWER MAINE 137 

To reach York Cliffs keep to the right after passing York 
Beach village. The main route is rejoined at Ogunquit. 

17.2 Mt . Agamenticus now about three miles distant, 
is seen at the left. 

18.7 t Ogunquit. This is a favorite resort of many 
artists. At the right is Ogunquit Beach. 

23. On the right is a boulder monument commemo- 
rating the defence of the garrison on this spot June 
9-1 1, 1692, whereby 400 French and Indians were 
successfully resisted and Wells remained the eastern- 
most town in the Province not destroyed by the 
enemy. 

24. Wells; "not a town but a street." Over at the 
right is Wells Beach, which is separated from the 
mainland by Wells River. 

25.8 Immediately after crossing Moreland River, a 
prominent road at the right leads to fKennebunk- 
port, a popular shore resort. Among its large 
hotels is Breakwater Court. (See map, page 174 
for this detour.) 

28.8 Crossing Mousam River the route passes 
directly through 

30.4 Kennebunk and crosses the Kennebunk River. 
For the remaining distance to Portland the road 
runs inland or, to speak more correctly, the shore 
line bears away to the eastward. 

37.4 Upon entering Biddeford, the Weber Hospital 
is passed on the left. Running directly through the 
town, the route crosses the Saco River which here 
forms the dividing line between the cities of Bidde- 
ford and Saco. The combined population of these 



138 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

cities is 23,500. The falls of the Saco at this point 
furnish power for manufacturing and here end the 
log drives on the river, which begin their course in 
the region of the White Mountains. 

Biddeford Pool is about nine miles off the route at the 
right, reached by Pool street. 

39. At the Soldiers' monument, Saco, the road at the 
right leads to Old Orchard Beach. 

44.6 After passing through the villages of West 
Scarboro and 

47.6 Scarboro, the heights of Portland are soon seen 
directly ahead. Crossing Fore River, at the foot 
of the Western Promenade, the route ascends a 
grade at the right and enters 

52. t Portland (Population 58,500). Holmes says 
Portland was "meant for a fine old town to ripen 
like a Cheshire cheese within its ancient rind," 
but the Portland of to-day is far too active a city 
to properly carry out his idea. The city is built 
on a long hill or saddle-back, which terminates at 
both ends in abrupt bluffs along the brows of which 
run the Eastern and Western Promenades. 

When running toward the center of the city on 
Vaughan and Pine streets, the route passes near 
Williston Church (at Carroll and Thomas streets), 
the birthplace of the Christian Endeavor movement. 
At the junction of Pine and Congress (main) 
streets, is a statue of the poet Longfellow. One 
block to the right is the Lafayette Hotel. 

53.3 The direct through route here crosses Congress 
into State street and leaves the city. 



THROUGH LOWER MAINE 139 

To visit some of the attractive features of the city, turn 
right (east) on Congress street. On the left near the 
Soldiers* monument, is the Wadsworth-Longfellow house. 
Here lived Longfellow's mother, Zilpah Wadsworth, before 
her marriage, and here the poet lived as a boy and young 
man. Longfellow's birthplace, however, stands in the 
easterly part of the city near the harbor at the corner of 
Fore and Hancock streets. 

Next to the Wadsworth-Longfellow house is the Preble 
house, which has for its nucleus the mansion of Commo- 
dore Preble. 

Continuing east on Congress street to visit the Eastern 
Promenade with its view of Casco Bay, City Hall is passed, 
on the left. This Hall possesses the somewhat unusual 
feature of a municipal organ. 

On the right, across a small park, are the Federal and 
County Court Houses and the Post Office. 

In the Eastern Cemetery which is passed on the right, 
is a stone to the memory of Henry Wadsworth, for whom 
Longfellow was named. Commodore Preble, who com- 
manded the squadron which in 1803 bombarded Tripoli, 
is also buried here. 

On the right when ascending Munjoy's Hill, is an 
observatory which affords a wide and attractive view in 
every direction. In the clearest weather Mt. Washington 
may be plainly seen. 

Upon reaching the Eastern Promenade the monument 
directly ahead is erected to Henry Cleaves, the first settler 
of Portland, and bears the four names by which the 
peninsula has been known. 

From this point the view over Casco Bay includes the 
U. S. Marine Hospital at the left, the various fortifications 
of the region and the southern entrance to the harbor at 
South Portland, on the right. The Grand Trunk RR 
makes its entrance to the city around the base of the bluff. 

53.5 Returning to the center of the city the route 
leaves Congress street, at the Congress Square 
Hotel, by way of Forest avenue, rejoining the 



140 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

through route on State street just before the first 
railroad crossing, and passing the Deering Oaks on 
the left crosses the railroad at Woodfords. 

56.4 At MorrilPs Corner, just after crossing a second 
railroad, the route bears to the left. The branch 
of the road at the right leads to Poland Spring. 
(See map, page 172). 

58.3 On the right is Riverton Park. Here the road 
crosses the Presumpscott River, which is the out- 
let of Sebago Lake. 

61.5 Highland Lake post office. 

It is difficult to say at what point on this route the 
mountains will first make their appearance. It sometimes 
occurs that Mt. Washington is so plainly seen from Port- 
land that it appears to be only a few miles distant, while at 
other times one may approach within a short distance of 
Conway before the mountains are seen through the haze. 
Excellent views are generally obtained, however, from the 
vicinity of Sebago Lake and at frequent points beyond. 

66.8 Crossing Pleasant River, a branch of the 
Presumpscott, the route passes through Windham 
Centre and North Windham (69.2). 

Sebago Lake, which the road nov^ approaches, 
is fourteen miles long and eleven miles wide. As 
the route nears 

74.5 Raymond, glimpses are had across the lake 
at the left, but the best views are obtained after 
passing through the village. This portion of the 
lake, called Jordan Bay, is cut off from the main 
body of water by Raymond Neck. 

Near the lower end of the neck are Frye*s Rocks, 
which rise about seventy feet from the water and 



THROUGH LOWER MAINE 141 

are painted with a reproduction of scenes said to 
have been originally placed on the face of the cliffs 
by Indians. Here it was that Captain Frye, 
pursued by the savages, leaped from the top of the 
rocks to the water and swam to the nearby Frye's 
Island. 

77.3 On the right is Thomas Pond. In this vicinity 
lived Nathaniel Hawthorne as a boy. The Haw- 
thorne house, now used as a church, stands a little 
at the right of the route on the road leading out 
upon Raymond Neck. At the outlet of Thomas 
Pond, on the right, is a large flat rock from which 
Hawthorne liked to fish and which is known as 
Nat's Rock. 

The State of Maine contains the remarkable 
number of 1,580 lakes which, with the surface of 
its rivers, constitute about one-tenth of its total 
area. The section which this route traverses con- 
tains its full proportion of lake and stream. 

81.5 After crossing Crooked River, and as the road 
from 

82.5 t Poland Spring comes in from the right, we 
reach an elevation above the Bay of Naples, named 
not by reason of its similarity to the famous Italian 
Bay, but because the village of Naples lies at its 
head. Between this bay and Sebago Lake is the 
Songo River, the subject of poems by Whittier, 
Longfellow, and many lesser writers, and famed 
for the beauty of its narrow winding course. 
Steamers from the lower end of Sebago Lake pass 
through this river, the Bay of Naples and to the 
upper end of Long Lake beyond. 



142 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

83.2 Descending to the level of the lakes, the route 
crosses between the bay and Long Lake, through 
the village of f Naples. Long Lake is about fourteen 
miles in length and is deservedly popular as a 
summer camp and cottage resort. 

The views in this vicinity are delightful as the 
White Mountains are frequently in sight, Mt. 
Kearsarge, which from this side has a conical 
appearance, being followed by the Presidential 
peaks and the sharply defined outline of the Notch 
of the Carter Mountains. 

91.9 Following the general course of Long Lake 
the route crosses the Bridge ton & Saco River rail- 
road at the entrance to Bridgeton, The gauge of 
this railroad (two feet) is the narrowest used by 
any commercial railroad in the country. 

Bridgeton. The original name of this town was 
Pondicherry from the abundance of small ponds 
and cherries found here. The route turns to the 
left through the village and then to the right at 
the park and along the shores of Highland Lake, 
another most attractive sheet of water. 

95.9 On the left is Beaver Pond, and just beyond 
Mt. Pleasant is close at hand on the left. 

97.5 The road now crosses Moose Pond by a two- 
parted causeway and rounds Pleasant Mountain 
through the hamlet of East Fryeburg. 

We now enter the valley of the Saco River which 
here makes a great bend to the northward, and in 
the broad intervale of which is the pleasant village 
of Fryeburg. 



THROUGH LOWER MAINE 143 

Before entering the village, however, the Jockey- 
Cap is passed on the right. This great rock, which 
contains a multitude of small garnets, overlooks 
Lovell's Pond, at the left of the road, the scene of 
the last battle of Capt. John Lovell the great 
Indian fighter, who fell here in 1725. In this 
battle the Indian chieftain Paugus was also killed. 
107.3 Passing through Fryeburg the route crosses 
the line between Maine and New Hampshire and 
reaches Centre Conway. Beyond this village the 
route turns sharply to the right and soon crosses 
the Saco River. 

On the right is the Rattlesnake Range with the 
quarries at Redstone on its extremity. Straight 
ahead and at the left are White Horse and Cathedral 
Ledges and Moat Mountain. 

Swinging into the direct road from Portsmouth 
the route runs up the broad intervale of the Saco to 
1 17.7 t North Conway (elevation 520 feet). 

Continued through the White Mountains in Chapter 
Vin next following, page 159. 




Mounts Washington and Madison from the Glen Road 



Dalton 




Jc^ 



\ y ForrestL. 

:y|^' North Litt'letoiiX / ^^^^^^'^'^ 



Sputh" 
Littletoi 



[hitefiel/ 



-^ Littleton 



ncipiidiT^ 



jWing Road 
BETHLEHEM 



Carroll 

\ 



Agassiz Mt 



■^/nonooa^ 



ORAFTON" 00 



.#.- 



Sugar Loaves 



3e 



CRAWFORD HO 



North TwinMt 



, Profile Golf Links 

^ ^ I , 

» / South Twin Mt 

\ Mt.Sarfield 

, Eagle Cliff 1 , (Hayjtach) 

f^G^oZ:^^^ Profile House 

°rc/;/e House 



ProBleL 

Cannon Mt., 
(Old Man of ttie Mountains) 



Mt Pemifewassett 
2,663' <■ 

Flume Lodie 



Bo^Mj-^ 




144 



THE HEART OF TI 




THITE MOUNTAINS 



145 



43 
a, 



The Mount Washington at Bretton Woods 

VIII 

Among the Mountains* 

(1) Plymouth to North Conway, 80 Miles 
(2) North Conway to Plymouth 

Plymouth, standing in one of the gateways to the 
mountains, is situated at the junction of the Pemige- 
wasset and Baker Rivers. Its elevation is 475 feet. 

From this point the main line of the railroad bears 
to the west and follows the valleys of Baker's River 
and its tributaries until it can break through the hills 
and reach the Connecticut. Another line follows the 
Pemigewasset straight into the heart of the mountains, 
and it is this route which our path also follows. 

Section 2 of this chapter describes the trip through 
the mountains in the opposite direction. 

The reader will glean a general knowledge of the 
geography of this wonderful region by studying the 
double-page map on pages 144-5, which shows the 
roads, mountain peaks and other useful detail. 



*Consult Finding Map, inside front cover, for layout of 
routes radiating from the White Mountains. 

147 



148 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Plymouth to North Conway, N. H., 80 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 159-167 
o. Leaving the square in the center of Plymouth 
on the left, the route runs north and crosses Baker 
River (0.6). 
2. On the right are Livermore Falls, now more use- 
ful than ornamental. As the route continues up 
the valley the views of the mountains ahead be- 
come frequent. From a hill near 
6.2 West Campton the Franconia Mountains of 
which Mt. Lafayette is the highest peak, come 
prominently into view lying in great masses at 
the head of the valley. 




Fran con /a Mrs. from Campfon /////s 

From here too is a view up the valley of Mad 
River at the right, including Sandwich Dome with 
Tri-pyramid just beyond and Tecumseh a little 
to the north. 

As the road passes through the villages of Thorn- 
ton, West Thornton and Woodstock the Franconia 
range grows nearer until at North Woodstock, the 
route is really at its feet. 

Over at the right when nearing North Wood- 
stock is the village of Fairview on the eastern bank 
of the river. 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 149 

2 1. t North Woodstock. The route does not cross 
the river, but continues straight through the village. 

Here a right-hand road leads across the river to the 
Deer Park Hotel, rejoining the main route at the farther 
end of the village. 

The elevation at this point is about 900 feet. 
22. Just beyond the town, on the left, is a Reserva- 
tion of the Appalachian Mountain Club. 

From this point the valley narrows and the 
ascent is more pronounced, the road rising about 
600 feet in the course of the next five miles. 

On the right are the Coolidge Mountains with 
rounded summits and the sharper peak of the 
sHde-scarred Mt. Flume. On the left is Mt. 
Pemigewasset, which rises directly behind the 
Flume House. 

After the railroad is crossed at Johnson's Mills, 
the main ascent really begins and continues with- 
out interruption to the 
26. t Flume House, where the elevation is 1,500 feet. 
The climb to this point, the steepest part of which 
is at the top of the hill, is the only serious grade 
which will be encountered between Plymouth 
and North Conway. From this point the road 
continues to ascend for five miles, but the grades 
are neither so long nor so steep. 

From the piazza of the hotel is a pleasant view 
down the valley toward Plymouth, and from this 
point the motintains of the Lafayette range present 
roughly a lay figure of Washington; Mt. Liberty, 
directly in front of the hotel forming the head and 
Mt. Lincoln the feet. 



150 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

From the Flume House, a road at the right leads ]/2 
mile to the foot of the famous Flume. 

At the right also, just above the stables, a pleasant path 
through the woods leads (3^ mile) to the Pool, an 
immense basin worn a hundred feet deep through the rocks 
by the action of the river. The water in the Pool is said 
to be forty feet deep. 

We are now fairly in Franconia Notch, with 
mountains rising sharply on either side. 

After crossing the river a mile above the Flume 
House, the road soon passes on the left 
28.4 The Basin, a great bowl, worn by the action 
of the waters. 

Extending into the basin is an offshoot of the 
ledge in the shape of a human foot of colossal size. 

If the tourist has time to stop here and will make 
a short excursion into the woods beyond the Basin, 
following a path which leads at first a little down- 
stream, he will find a series of beautiful cascades 
coming down the mountain-side. 

The road now runs through the forest for about 
a mile, and upon emerging into the open affords a 
grand view of the cliffs of Cannon Mountain, on the 
left, and Eagle Cliff directly ahead. 

Immediately above the road at the right rises 
Mt. Lafayette, with an elevation of more than 
5,000 feet. The road runs so closely at the base of 
the mountain, however, that no adequate view is 
to be had of the peak. 
3 1. 1 The road now skirts the shores of Profile Lake, 
on the further side of which is Cannon Mountain. 
On the summit of this mountain as seen from the 
pavilion at the head of the lake, is the Profile — 



152 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

"The Old Man of the Mountains" — the crowning 
marvel of Franconia Notch. Just beyond is the 
31.4 fProfile House. The elevation at this point is 
1,950 feet, and this is the height of land. Profile 
Lake is the headwaters of the Pemigewasset which, 
through the Merrimack, empties into the ocean at 
Newburyport, Mass. ; and the waters of Echo Lake, 
just beyond the Profile House, find their way 
northward into the Ammonusuc and Connecticut, 
and thence into Long Island Sound. 

Echo Lake, along the shores of which the road now 
runs, is well named, and under favorable conditions 
the most remarkable echoes may be awakened 
from the vicinity of the boat house. 

The road follows around the lake, at the foot of 
Artist's Bluff, from the summit of which is an im- 
pressive view of the Notch the Lafayette Range. 
34.8 At Profile Golf Links, the outlook is across the 
Gale River valley, in which is located the village 
of Franconia, to Sugar HilL 

From this point the road follows the 1,400 foot 
line of elevation, for several miles, crossing the 
narrow gauge Profile & Franconia Notch RR and 
Gale River, and affording frequent views, at the 
right, of Mt. Garfield (Haystack) and Twin Moun- 
tains. 

Directly ahead, as the road nears Twin Mountain 
House Railroad Station, is Cherry Mountain, from 
the summit of which Crawford Notch was discovered 
about 1773 by a hunter named Nash, who there- 
upon made his way through the Pass and reported 
his discovery to Governor Wentworth at Portsmouth. 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 153 

41.6 At this point the Presidential Range comes 
into view up the valley of the Ammonusuc. 

Crossing the railroad and the river and ascend- 
ing a sharp grade the road reaches 

44.8 fTwin Mountain House, where a turn to the 
left leads to f Maplewood and f Bethlehem, both with 
excellent hotels. Our route turns to the right along 
the Ammonusuc, which has its source in Lake 
Tear of the Clouds high up on Mount Washington. 

48. On the right are the lower falls of the Ammo- 
nusuc, with their peculiar shelving rocks. 

49.5 The route now passes the White Mountain 
House, and Fabyans at which point the elevation 
is 1,573 feet. 

This is the starting point of the railroad which 
runs to the base of Mount Washington, where it 
connects with the cog road to the summit. 

50.3 fBretton Woods, The Mount Washington Hotel. 

From this broad valley, in which are located some 
of the largest hotels in the mountains, is obtained 
the nearest and best view of the whole Presidential 
Range. Mount Washington, the highest peak of the 
northern Appalachians, has an elevation of 6,293 
feet. 







Ppesfdenfidl Range from Bretfon Woods 



154 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

50.6 A little beyond the Mount Pleasant House is a 
memorial chapel on the left, and on the right a 
fountain erected in memory of Samuel J. and John 
F. Anderson, who, as officials of the Portland & 
Ogdensburg RR, as the main line of railroad 
through this region was called at the time of its 
construction, were largely instrumental in opening 
this section to the traveler. From this point there 
is a gradual rise to 

53.5 t Crawford House, where the elevation is 1,893 
feet. 

Here, also, is a parting of the waters, the lake in 
front of the hotel holding the headwaters of the 
Saco River, which finds the ocean on the coast of 
Maine, while streams which descend from the 
mountains on both sides of the hotel flow westward 
into the Connecticut. 

Above the lake is the Elephant's Head, with its 
trunk seeming almost to touch the waters. 

Directly ahead is the narrow Gateway of the 
Notch, filled by the bulk of Mt. Webster. 

At the right of the gateway is Mt. Willard, which 
may be easily ascended, on foot or by ''burro," 
and which affords one of the most delightful views 
to be found anywhere in the region. 

Immediately after entering the Gateway of the 
Notch, the road descends Tug-of-war Hill. On the 
right, when making this descent, are the cliffs of 
Mt. Willard, and on the left are the Flume and 
Silver Cascades. 

The greater part of the road is now through the 
forest, but there are occasional openings and nu- 



156 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

merous glimpses of the mountains which tower on 
either vSide. 

56.2 Willey House (elevation 1,450 feet). The 
site of this house is in the first clearing which allows 
a general view from the valley. At this point 
Mt. Webster is on the left, and at the right is Mt. 
Willey, its face still scarred by the slide which in 
1826 destroyed the Willey family. Looking down 
the valley, Mt. Crawford is on the left and Mt. 
Bemis on the right. Turning backward we see 
Mt. Willard at the head of the Notch. 

As we continue down the valley, following from 
one knoll to another, but always descending through 
the forest, the Frankenstein Cliffs rise sharply 
at the right. 

62.3 The road now reaches the clearing at Bemis 
and is again at the level of the railway. This was 
the location of the house* of Abel Crawford, " the 
patriarch of the mountains, "whose grave was very 
near the present site of the railroad station. Mt. 
Crawford is the only monument to his memory. 
Just below Bemis, the road crosses Nancy's Brook. 

Directly ahead are Mt. Tremont and Bartlett 
Haystack. 

64.3 Crossing Sawyer's River, the road turns to 
the east along the base of the Haystack, with 
Hart's Ledge across the river on the left. 

66.1 On the right is Sawyer's Rock, a great boulder 
by the road which marks the end of the Notch. 
When the hunter Nash reported his discovery of 
the Notch to Governor Wentworth, he was promised 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 157 

a grant of land if he would bring a horse through 
the pass. This he undertook to do with the aid 
of a fellow hunter named Sawyer. The horse 
was brought through with great difficulty, being 
lowered over cliffs and driven through the river 
by the men until they emerged at this point. Then 
Sawyer broke his rum bottle against the ledge 
which he named Sawyer's Rock. 

The valley now broadens and the forest is suc- 
ceeded by cultivated fields. 

68. 1 Bartlett is the first village met with on emerging 
from the mountains, and in fact is the first en- 
countered on this route for nearly fifty miles. 

Looking backward as the road continues down 
the open valley, the great dome of Mt. Carrigain 
is seen directly behind. 

Before us, Mt. Kearsarge at North Conway, 
with a house on its summit comes into view. Pass- 
ing on the left, the cliffs of Mt. Stanton, shrunken 
almost into insignificance by comparison with the 
grandeur of the scenery of the Notch, the route 
crosses the Saco and reaches 

74.1 fGlen Station. Here the road to Jackson and 

Gorham leaves to the left (see map, pages 144-5). 

The road now turns again toward the south and 
passing through Lower Bartlett and f Intervale 
reaches 
80. t North Conway (Elevation 520 feet). 

The route to Portland is described on pages 170-178. 

To Portsmouth on pages 179-200. 







•^ 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 159 

(2) North Conway to Plymouth, 80 Miles 

Reverse of previous section i, page 148. See map, page 144 

As Plymouth stands in the western gateway to the 
mountains, so North Conway occupies the eastern 
portal. Unlike Plymouth it abounds in hotels and 
boarding houses, and is the summer resort of hun- 
dreds who enjoy the life of the summer colony, and 
who are here within reach of all and in sight of many 
of the mountains. 

The immediate vicinity offers many points of 
interest, most of which are more attractive before one 
has made the tour of the mountains than if visited 
after such a trip. 



o. North Conway. Proceeding directly through 
the village, the route reaches 

1.9 t Intervale (Elevation 546 feet). This is the 
junction of the Boston & Maine and Maine Central 
railroads. The chief hotel is The Intervale. 

Directly across the tracks at the station, are the 
Cathedral Woods. From the road at this point 
is obtained one of the best views of the Presidential 
Mountains and other peaks to the north. Mount 
Washington is distant about sixteen miles, air line. 
Soon after leaving Intervale, the route turns to 
the west, passes the road to Jackson on the right, 
where the yellow markers turn. We now pick up 
and follow the red markers past Glen Station on 
the left. Ahead on the right are the cliffs of Mt. 
Stanton (1725 feet), and directly ahead is the dome 
of Mt. Carrigain (4650 feet). 



160 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

1 1.9 Passing through Bartlett, with the dome 
of Carrigain still before us, at the right is Hart's 
Ledge, and on the left the peaks of Bartlett Hay- 
stack. 

13.9 Sawyer's Rock is close by the road on the left. 
Crawford Notch was discovered about 1773 from 
Cherry Mountain near Fabyan^s, by a hunter named 
Nash. Upon reporting his discovery to Governor 
Wentworth, Nash was offered a grant of land if 
he would show that he was able to bring a horse 
through the pass. With the aid of a companion 
named Sawyer, the horse was in fact hauled through, 
being lowered over cliffs and driven through the 
river by the men, until they emerged at this point. 
Then Sawyer broke his rum bottle against the 
ledge which he named Sawyer's Rock. 

15.7 Rounding Hart's Ledge and crossing Sawyer's 
river at an elevation of i,oob feet, the road passes 
through a beautiful forest with glimpses of the 
mountains on either side. 

17.7 Crossing Nancy's Brook, the clearing at Bemis 
is reached. Mt. Crawford is on the right. The 
grave of Abel Crawford, "the patriarch of the 
mountains, " was very near the present site of Bemis 
station, and his house was just beyond. 

For the next two miles, the Frankenstein cliffs 
tower upon the left, and occasional glimpses are 
obtained of Mt. Washington ahead and at the 
right. 

23.8 At the Willey House clearing, the elevation is 
1,450 feet. Directly ahead is Mt. Willard, the 
guardian of the portal of the Notch; on the right 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 161 

is Mt. Webster and on the left Mt. Willey, still 
scored by the slide which in 1826 destroyed the 
Willey family. 

From this point there is a constant ascent, 
culminating in Tug-of-War Hill, at the summit of 
which is the gateway of the Notch. During this 
climb, Silver Cascade and Flume Cascade are 
passed on the right, and the cliffs of Mt. Willard 
are on the left. 
26.5 Passing through the "Gateway," the road 
reaches the f Crawford House, where the elevation 
is 1893 feet. 

Looking backward from here, Mt. Webster 
closes the Gateway and the Elephant's Head is 
seen, the trunk almost dipped in Saco Lake. This 
is the height of land, the waters beyond Crawford 
House flowing into the Ammonusuc and thence 
into the Connecticut River. 

Beyond Crawford's, are constantly broadening 
views of the Presidential Range. 
29.4 Near the f Mount Pleasant House (Bretton 
Woods) on the right is a memorial chapel and on 
the left a fountain-memorial to Samuel J. and 
John F. Anderson who as officials of the Portland 
& Ogdensburg RR, were largely instrumental in 
opening this section to the traveler. 




Pnes/denfidl Ran^e from Breffon Wood6 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 163 

29.7 The Mount Washington, the largest and finest 
resort hotel of New England is at the right, five- 
eighths of a mile. 

Proceeding west from fFabyan's, and passing the 
fWhite Mountain House, the three Sugar Loaves 
are on the left and Cherry Mountain on the right. 
It was from Cherry Mountain that the hunter, 
Nash, discovered Crawford Notch. 
31.9 Following the Ammonusuc River, the head- 
waters of which are in Lake Tear of the Clouds, 
high up on Mt. Washington, the lower falls of the 
river are seen on the left. 

35.1 At fTwin Mountain House, the route turns 
to the left, crosses and leaves the Ammonusuc and 
follows closely the 1,400 foot line of elevation to 
the Profile Golf Links. 

The route straight ahead at this point runs to Maple- 
wood and Bethlehem, the Sinclair Hotel. 

Soon after passing Twin Mountain House 
Station, the Franconia peaks appear ahead and at 
the left, led by the Twin Mountains, and Mt. 
Garfield or Haystack, and followed by Mt. La- 
fayette and the scalloped topped Lafayette Range 
extending to and including Flume Mountain. 

40.8 Crossing Gale River, a branch of the Am- 
monusuc, and the narrow gauge 

42.5 Profile & Franconia Notch railroad, the route 
reaches 

45.2 Profile Golf Links. Here is an attractive view 
across the valley, in which lies the village of 
Franconia, to Sugar Hill. 



164 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

From this point there is a sharp rise of nearly 
500 feet, which is not apparent to the sight, but 
which sometimes causes the tourist to wonder 
whether or not some unknown trouble has devel- 
oped in his motor. 

45.5 Soon after leaving the Golf Links, Mt. Lafay- 
ette (5,270 feet) is seen straight ahead. 

47.8 The route now skirts the shores of Echo Lake 
with Artist's Bluff rising directly above on the 
right. The echoes obtained under favorable con- 
ditions from the boat house on the lake are man- 
ifold and wonderful. From the top of Artist's 
Bluff is an attractive view. 

Across the lake is the rounded head of Eagle 
Cliff, an offshoot of Mt. Lafayette, and at the 
right ahead is Cannon Mountain, which obtains 
its name from the rocky semblance to a piece of 
artillery which may be seen upon its summit. 

48.5 t Profile House (Elevation 1,950 feet). Here 
is another parting of the waters. The outlet of 
Echo Lake flows into the Connecticut, while just 
beyond the hotel is Profile Lake, from which flows 
the infant Pemigewasset. 

Across this latter lake from the pavilion by the 
roadside, is the view of the Great Stone Face — 
The Profile — on Cannon Mountain. Whether seen 
in the morning as the sun first lights up the Old 
Man's Face, or as the afternoon shadows deepen 
the stem features, or as he peers through enfold- 
ing clouds, there is nothing more impressive than 
this sharply chiselled face of stone. 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 16& 

To many visitors the situation at Franconia 
Notch seems shut in and overborne by the moun- 
tains which rise so closely about, but to those who 
once fall within the spell of the place there seems 
to be nothing in the mountains equally attractive. 

A little below the foot of Profile Lake the great 
ledges of Cannon Mountain are seen at the right. 

Franconia Notch is much less in extent than 
Crawford's, but contains more famous natural 
wonders. 
51.6 As the route descends through the forest along 
the upper waters of the Pemigewasset, The Basin, 
an immense bowl hollowed out by the action of the 
river is by the roadside on the right. A great 
rock in the shape of a human foot projects into 
the basin. 

As there is a rather sharp incline of the road at 
this point, the driver should be prepared for the 
stop. 

54 t Flume House (Elevation 1,500 feet). 

At this point a pleasant path at the left, above the 
stables, leads (^ mile) to the Pool, a great basin worn a 
hundred feet deep through the rocks. 

Here also a road at the left, below the stables, leads to 
the entrance to the Flume. 

From the hotel is an attractive view down the 
widening valley toward Plymouth. Seen from the 
piazza, the mountains of the Lafayette Range 
present roughly a lay figure of Washington, Mt. 
Liberty forming his head and Mt. Lincoln his 
feet. The descent from this point is sharp and 
long. 



166 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

On the left is Flume Mountain with its slide- 
scarred sides and beyond are the more rounded 
Coolidge Mountains, Big and Little. Around the 
base of these mountains comes in the East Branch 
of the Pemigewasset, the headwaters of which 
are on Mt. Willey and in the tangle of mountains 
which lie between the two Notches. 

58. When approaching North Woodstock, as the 
road to Deer Park Hotel leaves to the left, is a 
Reservation of the Appalachian Mountain Club, 
on the right. 

59. t North Woodstock (Elevation 900 feet). Upon 
running through the village the route does not 
cross the river, but keeping straight ahead passes 
the Soldiers' monument, on the left. On the east 
side of the river is seen the village of Fairview. 

The route now follows the open valley of the 
Pemigewasset, which by the addition of the East 
Branch and other feeders has greatly increased in 
size. 

During this portion of the trip there are many 
attractive views as the route passes through the 
villages of Woodstock, West Thornton, Thornton 
and West Campton. Particularly is this true of 
the scene from a hill (73.8) which pushes out into 




Fran con /a Mrs. from Campfor? ///7/s 



AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 



167 



the valley below West Campton, where the last 
broad view is had of the Franconia Hills. 

From this point also is a view to the east up the 
valley of Mad River toward Waterville, including 
Sandwich Dome, Tri-pyramid and Tecumseh. 
West Ossipee on the Portsmouth route is scarcely 
more than twenty miles distant directly east. 

78. Livermore Falls was formerly attractive, but 
has been spoiled by the manufactories. 

79.4 Crossing Baker River, which here swells the 
Pemigewasset, the route enters 

80. Plymouth (Elevation 475 feet). 

A right turn on High street leads to Lake Sunapee and 
Springfield, Mass., see Chapter X, page 218. 

Straight ahead is the route to Boston via Concord, 
Chapter IX, page 201. 




The Ascent of Mt. Willard by "burro." 




pq 



IX 

The Return from the Hills 

North Conway to Portland and Portsmouth, 117.7 Miles 

North Conway to Portsmouth and Boston, 152.5 Miles 

Plymouth to Boston, 138.2 Miles 

Reverse of route described in Chapter VI and VII 

The least interesting part of a trip to a region like 
the White Mountains is the return. 

The face of the country seems fiat and uninteresting, 
the city streets appear to be more congested than usual 
and less attractive; and the chief point of interest is 
frequently the home which lies at the end of the 
journey. 

For these reasons, a return by way of the shore, 
which substitutes scenes of a widely different type 
for those which have been met with in the mountains, 
is better calculated to please than that which continues 
over the inland highways. 

Of the three routes which are included within the 
limits of this chapter, that by way of Portland offers 
most of the sea ; that by way of Portsmouth combines 
something of the shore with the best of roads ; and the 
third, that from Plymouth, is as pleasant a route as 
could well be found if it could be separated from the 
inevitable comparison with the scenery of the moun- 
tains. 

169 



170 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

North Conway to Portland and Portsmouth, 117.7 Miles 

Reverse of route described on pages 135-146 

o. North Conway. Running south through the 
village, the road follows the valley of the Saco 
River. The Rattlesnake Range is on the left and 
the Ledges and Moat Mountain on the right. 

2.5 Leaving the direct road to Portsmouth, the 
route bears to the left and follows the river valley 
around the base of the Rattlesnake Range. At 
the extremity of these mountains are the quarries 
at Redstone. 

4.4 Crossing the river, the route turns to the left 
and passes through Conway Centre. 

8.8 Crossing the State line, the road enters Maine. 

10.4 Fryeburg. This is a pleasant village located 
in a broad intervale of the Saco. The route passes 
directly through the main street and bears to the 
right on a State road. 

II. On the left is Jockey Cap and on the right 
LovelPs Pond, where, in 1725, Capt. John Lovell, 
the great Indian fighter, was killed. In the battle 
which took place on the shores of the pond, the 
great chief Paugus was also killed. 

13.6 The road again crosses the Saco River and 
ascends to East Fryeburg (16.4). 

Ahead is Pleasant Mountain, around which the 
road passes on its way to Bridge ton. 

20. The road descends and at the foot of Mt. 
Pleasant crosses Moose Pond by a two-parted 
causeway. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 171 

21.5 On the right is Beaver Pond. On the left is 
Highland Lake, at the foot of which the route 
turns to the right and enters 

25.3 Bridgeton. At the Soldiers' monument, the 
route bears to the left, down grade. This town 
is located on Long Lake, the first of a series of 
lakes and rivers through which the steamers of the 
Sebago Lake line run. 

26. The route turns to the right at Lower Bridgeton 
and crosses the little Bridgeton & Saco River rail- 
road, the gauge of which (2 feet) is the narrowest 
used on any railroad in the country. 

We now follow the general course of Long Lake 
(at the left), which is about fourteen miles in length. 

34.3 At the lower end of the lake is Naples. Here 
the road turns to the left across the bridge between 
Long Lake and the Bay of Naples and then turns 
to the right up-grade. 

35.6 A little beyond the top of the hill, the road to 
the left leads to fPoland Spring, while our route 
keeps straight on toward the shores of Sebago 
Lake. (See map, page 172.) Between the Bay of 
Naples and Sebago Lake runs the Songo River, a 
narrow stream which is famed for its beauty. 

36.5 The route crosses Crooked River which feeds 
the Songo. 

Sebago Lake now lies at the right and there are 
several views across its waters in the next few miles, 
although most of them look across Jordan Bay to 
Raymond Neck. Sebago is about fourteen miles 
long and eleven miles wide. 



172 






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To Portsmouth 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 173 

39.7 On the left is Thomas Pond, one of the favorite 
resorts of Nathaniel Hawthorne in his boyhood, 
which was spent in this vicinity. At the outlet 
of the pond is a large flat rock from which he liked 
to fish, and which is still called Nat's Rock. The 
Hawthorne house was a little at the right on the 
road leading out upon Raymond Neck and is now 
used as a church. 

Near the lower end of the Neck are Frye's Rocks, which 
rise about seventy feet from the water and are painted 
with a reproduction of scenes said to have been originally 
placed on the face of the cliffs by the Indians. Here it was 
that Captain Frye, pursued by the savages, leaped from 
the top of the rocks to the water and swam to the nearby 
island which received his name. 

43. Passing through the town of Raymond, the 
route keeps around to the right along the general 
course of the lake shore, but soon leaves the lake 
and passes through a long stretch of sparsely 
settled country, in which are the villages of North 
Windham (48.4) and Windham Centre. 

50.2 The route crosses Pleasant River, and passes 

56. Highland Lake Post Office. 

59.2 At the crossing of the Presumpscott River, 
which is the outlet of Sebago Lake, Riverton Park 
is on the left. 

61. At Morrill's, the route from Poland Spring 
comes in from the left. Crossing the railroad here 
and again ^t Woodford's, the route enters 

63.0 t Portland (Pop. 58,500). Entering the city on 
Forest avenue, the route proceeds directly to the 
business center. 



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To Portsmouth 



LOWER MAINE COAST 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 175 

64. Upon reaching Congress street, the direct 
through route turns to the right and at the Long- 
fellow Monument, turns to the left on Pine street. 

The Lafayette Hotel is one block south on 
Congress street. 

Having run for an hour through a rather uninteresting 
stretch of country, we should be ready to enjoy some of 
the interesting features of Portland, which are described 
on page 139. 

Upon returning to the center of the cit}^, we take our 
departure from the Longfellow Monument at the corner 
of Pine street (64.0). 

64.4 At Vaughan street we turn to the left. A little 
at the left is Williston Church, the birthplace of the 
Christian Endeavor movement. 

64.8 At the end of Vaughan street, the route turns 
to the right down grade and crosses the bridge over 
Fore River. The route now follows the trolley 
line through West Scarboro and Scarboro to 

78.3 Saco. At the Soldiers' monument the route 
bears to the right and crosses the Saco River which 
we last crossed at Fryeburg. This is practically 
the mouth of the river and the end of the log drives 
which have their origin in and about the White 
Mountains. The falls of the Saco at this place 
furnish power for much manufacturing. The 
river here forms the boundary line between the 
cities of Saco and Biddeford, which together have 
a population of 23,500. 

The route runs straight through Biddeford, 
passing the Weber hospital on the right. 

Biddeford Pool is some eight or nine miles off the route 
at the left, reached through Pool street. 



176 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

85.2 A prominent road at the left leads to fKenne- 
bunkport. (See map, page 174 for this de- 
tour.) 

Crossing the Kennebunk River, the route passes 
directly through 

88.4 Kennebunk and immediately crosses the Mousam 
River. 

After crossing Moreland River and coming 
within the confines of Wells, which is a long, 
straggling town, the route affords many views of 
the sea. Wells River, which is a sort of lagoon 
with a narrow entrance from the sea, separates 
Wells Beach from the mainland. 

94.3 On the left is a boulder monument which 
commemorates the defence of the garrison at this 
spot, June 9-1 1, 1692, whereby 400 French and 
Indians were resisted and Wells remained the 
easternmost town in the Province not destroyed 
by the enemy. 

98.5 fOgunquit is the resort of many artists. 
Keeping to the right* in the village, we soon come 

in sight of Mt. Agamenticus, on the right. While 
this hill has no great elevation (675 feet), yet by 
reason of its location near the shore, it offers a wide 
and beautiful view in every direction. The range 
is from Cape Elizabeth near Portland to Cape 
Ann in Massachusetts and northward, to the 
White Mountains. The stunmit of the mountain 
is the legendary burial place of St. Aspenquid, an 
Indian prophet. 

*The left fork at Ogunquit takes one over a winding 
drive along the ocean, past The Passaconaway Inn at 
York Cliffs, rejoining the main route at York Beach. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 177 

1 01.5 Cape Neddick village. From this point 
the most direct road is that straight ahead. Our 
route tiims to the left in order to visit 

104.2 fYork Beach. After passing through the 
business center of this resort, the route turns to the 
right across the base of Cape Neddick and reaches 
the long curve of the beach. 

At the extremity of the cape is the Nubble with 
its light-house. Directly off shore is Boon Island 
light. 

After running along the beach, the road passes 
Trinity Church. 

108. At York Village, the direct route from York 
Beach comes in from the right. Here, just beyond 
the Soldiers* monument on the left, is the old 
York Jail, which was built in 1653 and has been 
preserved at the suggestion of William Dean 
Howells. The jail contains an interesting collec- 
tion of relics. 

Sir Ferdinand Gorges, who had a grant covering 
all the country in this vicinity, intended York to 
become a great city, and under the name of Gorgeana 
it was given the first city charter granted in 
America. 

1 1 1.5 Crossing York River, the route keeps away 
from the shore line and nms straight across country. 
As it approaches Kittery some of the buildings of 
Portsmouth Navy Yard are seen at the left.- It was 
here that the conferences were held which ter- 
minated the Russo-Japanese war. 

1 16.5 Kittery. Here the route crosses the old toll 
bridge over the Piscataqua River and enters New 



178 



FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Hampshire. The large mills on the right were 
built for the manufacture of paper, but have never 
been used. 

Down the harbor the Navy Yard is seen and 
beyond it Seavey^s Island, where many Spanish 
War captives were quartered. 

Upon leaving the bridge, the road bears to the 

left and, entering f Portsmouth, runs directly to 

1 1 7.7 Market square at the center of the city. 

Some of the points of interest in this quaint 
old place are described on page 185. 

For the continuation of this route to Boston, see page 
187. 




Crossing a branch of Pine River at Ossipee 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 179 

(2) North Conway to Portsmouth (84.5) 
and Boston, 152.5 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 1 16-133 

o. fNorth Conway (Elevation 520 feet). The main 
road from this point to Portsmouth is plainly 
marked by the yellow bands which distinguish 
this section of the New Hampshire State highway. 
Running south on the main street of this popular 
summer resort, the route follows for a few miles 
the valley of the Saco River. 

On the right are the ledges — Cathedral and White 
Horse, at the base of the latter of which lies the 
Echo Lake of the eastern side of the mountains. 
Beyond the ledges rises the broad bulk of Moat 
Mountain. On the left is the Rattlesnake Range, 
around the base of which the Saco River and . the 
route to Portland find their way into Maine. The 
Redstone Quarries are at the extremity of this 
range. 

Crossing the Saco just below the mouth of Swift 
River, the route enters 

5.5 Conway. As the route turns to the right into 
the main street, Mt. Chocorua is directly ahead, 
the half-way house on its shoulder standing out 
clearly against the sky. 

6.5 At the lower end of the village, Pequawket 
Pond is on the left. 

7.5 Ascending the grade towards lona Post Office 
the tip of Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range is seen at 
the left. Directly ahead 



180 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

8.2 the rugged peak of Mt. Chocorua appears, 
10.5 On the left glimpses are had of Knowles' Pond. 
15. The road skirts the shores of Chocorua Lake. 

16.3 Upon ascending the grade after leaving the 
lake, from the rustic gateway at the right is obtained 
the best-known view of Chocorua. 

16.4 Passing the Inn on the left, the road descends 
to Chocorua village. Here the Chocorua River 
is crossed. 

19.2 Upon passing Moore's Pond on the left, a view 
of the Ossipee Range with Mt. Shaw overtopping 
the lesser heights, is followed by a view of the 
Bearcamp Mountains. 

21.5 West Ossipee (Whittier station). On the 
knoll at the right, opposite the garages, stood the 
hotel where the poet Whittier spent many summers. 
Among the willows, below the hotel, where the 
road from Centre Harbor comes in from the right, 
was a favorite seat of the poet. The scene of 
"Among the Hills," "Sunset on the Bearcamp," 
and other poems, is laid in this region. 

The road now bears to the left diagonally across 
the valley of the Bearcamp River. The Bearcamp 
Mountains are directly ahead. Behind at the 
right, is the Sandwich Range from Chocorua to 
Whiteface. Crossing the Bearcamp River and 
turning sharply to the left the road passes through 
the village of Ossipee Valley. 

24.6 From the railroad crossing at the end of the 
village Mt. Washington lies directly up the track, 
at the left. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 181 

To visit Ossipee Lake, which lies one-half mile to the 
left, take the road at the top of the hill. 

25.6 Just after crossing the small stream known as 
Lovell's River, in the open field at the left is a 
mound supposed to be the burial place of the 
Indians killed in the battle with Lovell's band of 
Indian fighters in 1725. LovelPs Fort was located 
at the farther end of the field. 

The route passes through Centre Ossipee (Moun- 
tain view station), crosses a branch of the Pine 
River, and ascends a hill from which the view be- 
hind includes Ossipee Lake and the Sandwich 
Mountains. The rounded summit on the left, 
below the lake is Green Mountain. 

31.5 On the left is Duncan Lake, which was much 
frequented by President Cleveland for its bass 
fishing, and on the shores of which he had a cottage. 

33. Crossing the railroad at f Ossipee, the route 
passes through the village bearing a little to the 
left at the center. The large buildings seen over 
at the right belong to the county farm. 

35.7 The route now skirts the base of Little White- 
face Mountain, and reaches another elevation 
from which the view behind again includes the 
Sandwich Range and, under favorable conditions, 
the President al Range. 



^^ 




V 


^c< 



Looking North from Ossipee 



182 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

36.5 Descending a steep grade, at the foot of which 
is a railroad crossing, the road reaches 

37.5 North Wakefield (Matthews station). Be- 
yond this village is another ascent at the top of 
which the elevation is about 1,000 feet, or nearly 
twice that of North Conway. 

40. From this ridge the Belknap Mountains on the 
southern side of Lake Winnepesaukee are seen at 
the right. 

42.7 The road now overlooks the village of Wake- 
field and descending, crosses the railroad at the 
station and passes through the town. A sharp 
descent with a cross road at its foot brings us into 

43. Sanbornville. The road keeps straight ahead 
and passes through 

48. Union. A mile beyond the village the route 
turns sharply to the right, the branch straight 
ahead leading to Milton Mills. 

From the elevated Plummer's Ridge, is an at- 
tractive view which includes the Teneriffe Moun- 
tains on the right. At the end of the ridge the road 
descends to the Milton Ponds on which are many 
camps and large ice-harvesting plants. 

The rugged and lonesome building which stands 
on the left at the corner of the roads part way 
down the hill is the Town Hall of Milton. 

54.3 At the end of the village of Milton is a dangerous 
railroad crossing. 

57.5 In North Rochester (Hayes Crossing), there is 
a manufactory of leather, or fibre-board. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 183 

The stream seen on the left at this point forms 
the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine. 
Running now across a sandy pine plain the road 
enters the city of 

62. Rochester (Pop. 8,800). At the center is a mon- 
ument, on the right, to Rev. Amos Main, "the first 
settled minister of the Congregational Church in 
the Province of Rochester, 173 7-1 760." 

Bearing to the left on the main street, the route 
leaves the city and ascends a long hill from the 
summit of which is an excellent view in all direc- 
tions. On a clear day Mt. Washington may be 
seen behind on the left. Ahead is the low rounded 
summit of Mt. Agamenticus at York, Me. A 
little at the right is the observatory on Garrison 
Hill in the center of Dover, and farther at the 
right the hills on the shores of Pawtuckaway Pond 
in Nottingham. 

67. Upon descending the hill the road turns to the 
left, leaving the direct sandy road to Dover, to 
follow the State road which runs by way of 

69. Somersworth. The route does not reach the 
center of the city, but upon meeting the trolley 
line doubles sharply back to the right and follows 
the tracks to 

72.8 Dover (Pop. 13,000). This is the oldest place 
in New Hampshire, having been settled in 1623. 
Passing the hospital, on the left, the route runs 
directly through the city, crossing the railroad. 

73.8 In the central square is a memorial fountain 
and just below are the great Cocheco Cotton Mills, 
on the Cocheco River. 



184 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

At the end of the city the route bears to the left, 
leaving the trolley line. 

Upon reaching the top of the ridge which runs 
through the narrow tongue of land forming Dover 
Point, the Piscataqua River forming the boundary 
between New Hampshire and Maine is on the 
left and on the right is Great Bay. This is a 
shallow tidal basin some six miles in length and 
situated about the same number of miles from 
the open sea. The entrance to the Bay is from 
the Piscataqua River. 

80. Crossing the toll bridge over the entrance to 
Great Bay, through which the tide runs with the 
velocity of a mill race, the route passes from Dover 
Point to Newington. 

To avoid Portsmouth. Just beyond Newington station a 
road to the right is frequently used for through travel, as it 
saves two miles and avoids the city of Portsmouth. This 
route runs through the village of Newington; passes the 
upper end of Great Bay, runs through the center of Green- 
land; passes to the right of the church at North Hampton 
and rejoins the road by way of Portsmouth at the railroad 
bridge midway between North Hampton and Hampton. 
The distance across country is twelve miles. 

The main route follows the State road. 

83.3 On the outskirts of Portsmouth, at a prominent 
fork, on the right, is the Frank Jones estate. 

84.5 t Portsmouth (Pop. 11,000). The yellow mark- 
ers of the State road will lead one directly through 
the city, but a slight detour will enable the tourist 
to see a few of the many points of interest in this 
quaint "old town by the sea." 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 185 

After crossing the railroad near the station, the 
route enters Vaughan street. No. 32 is the house to 
which Daniel Webster brought his bride, in 1808. 

At the end of the street, instead of turning to the 
right on Congress street with the markers, turn to 
the left into Market square at the center of the 
city. On the left is the Atheneum. 

Keeping straight through the square into Daniels street, 
we reach the City Hall on the left at the corner of Chapel. 
Across Chapel street stands the Warner house, a three 
storied brick building of Colonial type. Built in 1 7 12, of 
material brought largely from Holland, it was the first 
brick house in Portsmouth. The lightning rod is said to 
have been installed under the personal supervision of 
Benjamin Franklin. Turning to the left on Chapel, at 
the top of the grade stands St. John's church. This 
church, formerly known as Queen's chapel, is open to 
visitors and retains a distinct flavor of the old seaport. 
Among its valued possessions are two mahogany chairs 
presented by Queen Caroline in 1732 and a curious font of 
porphyritic marble, which was brought from Senegal, 
Africa. Pursuant to the terms of a bequest made by a 
Colonial parishoner, loaves of bread are distributed from 
this church at the close of the service every Sunday, for 
the benefit of the poor of the parish. In the churchyard 
is the tomb of Governor Went worth and others of interest. 

Returning on Chapel street, continue straight through 
to Court street and there turn to the right. On the left is 
the "Nutter" house (marked), the birthplace of Thomas 
Bailey Aldrich, and the house of which he wrote in "The 
Story of a Bad Boy." The house is now the Aldrich 
Memorial, and is open to visitors in summer. 

At the corner of Court and Pleasant streets is the 
Gov. Langdon house on the left, which Washington con- 
sidered the finest private house in town. Here were enter- 
tained Louis Phillippe, afterward King of France, Lafayette, 
John Hancock and many other notables. 



186 



To Ossipee To Portland 




To Boston THE NEW HAMPSHIRE COAST 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 187 

^ Turn to the right on Pleasant street and at the post office 
turn to the left on State. After passing the Rockingham 
Hotel, the house on the corner was the residence of Admiral 
John Paul Jones, who fitted out both the "Ranger" and 
the "America" in this port. 

85.5 Here we rejoin the through route, turning to 
the left on Middle street. 

From this point there are two main routes 
toward Boston, one following the shore and the 
other running straight across country. 

The shore road which leaves at the left on Miller street 
is that followed by the State markers, and passes Rye 
Beach, with an excellent hotel and many attractive cot- 
tages, Hampton and Salisbury Beaches and affords many 
fine sea views. It is, however, six miles longer than the 
direct route, is frequently very rough at one place or 
another, and has many sharp turns. It is necessary, more- 
over, in many places to leave the road in order to obtain 
the view, either by reason of the low grade of the road or 
the intervention of rows of cottages. A better way to 
Rye Beach is shown on the map opposite. 

The route to New Castle Island and The Wentworth is 
also indicated thereon. Here the Russo-Japanese Peace 
Commissioners made headquarters. 

The direct route keeps straight ahead. 

89.8 On the left are the extensive grounds of the 
"Winchester" farm. 

92. The road now runs over the shoulder of Break- 
fast Hih, Greenland, where in 1696 a band of 
warring Indians was surprised as they were eating 
breakfast, and defeated. 

At the second railroad crossing the short cut from 
Newington bridge comes in from the right. At 

96.2 Hampton the road passes the hotel, on the left. 



188 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

96.5 A little beyond, at a sharp turn to the right 
is the house of General Jonathan Moulton, who, 
having more money than some of his neighbors, 
was reputed to have obtained it by the sale of his 
soul to the Evil One. As the story goes, the 
General, who was to receive as much gold as could 
be contained in his top-boots, placed his boots in 
the fireplace and the money was poured down one 
of the great chimneys which still overtop the house. 

97.5 At the left the line of cottages at Hampton 
Beach is seen across the marshes. 

98.3 Hampton Falls. On the right is a monument 
erected by the State to Meshach Weare, who was 
the first President of New Hampshire. 

98.4 Just beyond, on the left, opposite an old brick 
building is "Elmfield," where the poet Whittier 
was a frequent visitor. 

Hampton Falls merges almost imperceptibly 
into Seabrook, an extended village chiefly famous 
for its automobile traps. 

1 01. 4 At the end of Seabrook is the hamlet of 
Smithtown, a trolley junction. Here the road 
keeps straight through at the left of the green. 

1 01. 5 Just beyond Smithtown the road crosses the 
line between New Hampshire and Massachusetts, 
the boundary stone being on the right. 

104. At Salisbury church with a memorial clock, the 
shore route comes in from the left. 

The road here keeps straight through ; the right- 
hand trolley line leads to Amesbury. 



190 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

1 06. The spires of Newburyport are now seen and 
the road soon crosses the Merrimack River. 

The last sharp spire at the left is that of the 
Whitefield Church, beneath the pulpit of which are 
the bones of the great preacher. Two miles up the 
river is Chain-bridge, the first suspension bridge in 
America, and on the island beyond is the residence 
of Harriet Prescott Spofford. 

106.2 fNewburyport (Pop. 15,000). Turning to the 
left at the end of the bridge, the route at once turns 
to the right on Market street, which is followed to 
its end at High. Here it turns to the left and con- 
tinues on High street. This is one of the fine 
streets of New England. On the right is the "Mall," 
at the end of which is a bronze statue of Washington 
b}^ J. Q. A.Ward, who also made the "Washington" 
which stands before the sub-treasury on Wall 
street, New York. 

At the left on State street is the old Wolfe Tavern. On 
Federal street is the church beneath the pulpit of which are 
the bones of George Whitefield, the eminent Calvanistic 
preacher. At the rear of the church is the birthplace of 
William Lloyd Garrison. 

107.4 After crossing over a railroad the route passes 
a group of old houses. On the left is the Tappan 
house, and opposite the Ilsley house, both built 
before the Revolution. Just beyond, the last 
house before reaching the church (Newbury Old- 
town) is the Coffin house, where was born Joshua 
Coffin, one of the twelve persons who, with Garrison, 
formed the first anti-slavery society in New 
England. Whittier's lines, "To my old school- 
master," are addressed to him. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 191 

Just beyond the church is the house of Henfy 
Sewall, the grandson of Samuel Sewall, of early 
Colonial fame. This house was built about 1678. 

107.8 On the green at the right is a Soldier's monu- 
ment and a marker commemorating the encamp- 
m^ent here of a part of the troops of Benedict Arnold 
on the expedition to Quebec. 

The ancient house on the left is the Short place, 
built in 1700, in which lives (19 14) a true daughter 
of the Revolution. Rounding the shoulder of 
Oldtown Hill, the road passes, on the right, the 

1 10.3 Lower Green, on which is an unusually 
attractive monument erected to the memory of the 
first settlers of Newbury who came up Parker River 
and landed near this spot. 

1 14.7 Passing through the quiet old town of Rowley, 
the seat of Dummer Academy, the route reaches 

118. flpswich. Here lived John Winthrop the 
younger, the first Governor of Connecticut, before 
his removal to New London in 1645. The route 
follows the street railway line through the center of 
the town. 

1 18.3 The first bridge over the Ipswich River which 
it is believed is incorporated in the present struc- 
ture, was built about 1650. 

1 18.6 The tablet on the left as the route turns to the 
right at the green, marks the site of an early church. 

1 18.8 At the end of the green a little brook crosses 
the road. On the culvert carrying this stream is 
the following inscription: "This road from Rowley 
to Salem was laid out in the year 1640 by order of 



192 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

* the General Court. It was then known as the 

Bay Road and was the first road so authorized." 
1 19.2 As the trolley leaves to the left, on the road to 
t Gloucester, the route keeps straight ahead. 
For Gloucester and Cape Ann consult map on page 49. 

1 19.9 The inscription on Appleton's bridge recites 
the various stages of its construction. 

120.2 On the right is an old mile-stone. 

12 1.2 At the left on the outskirts of Hamilton is the 
residence of Congressman Gardner. The farm 
buildings are dark red. The residence is at a con- 
siderable distance and scarcely visible from the road. 

122.2 A little beyond a prominent three-comers 
where the route turns sharply to the right, is the 
residence of George von L. Meyer, who has held 
many offices in national affairs. The house is on 
the right, of terra-cotta, and with an Italian garden. 

122.6 Hamilton church. Here preached Rev. 
Manasseh Cutler, who was an early explorer of the 
White Mountains and was largely instrumental in 
fostering the immigration which settled Ohio at 
Marietta. 

123. 1 On the outskirts of the village a little above 
the road at the right is the former home of Gail 
Hamilton (Mary A. Dodge) , author of many works, 
including the "Biography of James G. Blaine.'^ 

Just beyond this on the left are the polo grounds 
of the Myopia Club. 

123.7 The railroad is crossed at Hamilton-and- 
Wenham station. The route follows the trolley 
line from here to Salem. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 193 

A little beyond, on the left is the first of a 
series of three mile-stones which are located about 
half a mile apart and were erected in 1710. The 
second post is opposite Wenham church (124.8). 

125.3 At the cemetery, on the left, is the third mile- 
stone, this one bearing an inscription appropriate 
to its location: "Job 30:23. For I know that Thou 
wilt bring me to death and to the house appointed 
for all living." 

125.5 At the right on the shore of Wenham Lake is a 
boulder monument marking the site of a hill from 
which the Rev. Hugh Peters preached yi 1636 a 
sermon from the text, "At Enon near to Salem 
because there was much water there." The early 
name of Wenham was Enon. 

Wenham Lake is the source of early shipments 
of ice to England. Thackery says: "Everybody 
(of the genteel world, of course) has the same every- 
thing in London. You see the same coats, the 
same dinners, the same boiled fowls . . . and the 
same lumps of Wenham Lake ice." 

127.3 North Beverly station is on the left. 

At the brick fire station where the route turns to 
the left is a tablet on the right marking the site of 
the first cotton mill in America. This was visited 
by Washington in 1789. 

Beverly (Pop. 18,600) and the shore to the east- 
ward as far as Cape Ann has long been the resort 
of people of wealth. Henry C. Frick has a mag- 
nificent residence about three miles from the center 
of the city, and there are countless other summer 



194 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

homes along the shore. During the administration 
of President Taft, Beverly was the simimer capital. 
On the hills at the left are Salem Reservoir and 
Beverly Hospital. At the right are the great 
factories of the United Shoe Machinery Co., 1,220 
feet long. 

128. A little beyond the first railroad crossing, on 
a slight elevation at the right is the Balch house, 
erected prior to 1648. 

128.6 At the second railroad crossing the most direct 
route is to turn to the right on Rantoul street, 
passing^ the post office on the left and railroad sta- 
tion at the right. 

130. 1 Just beyond the end of Rantoul street, the 
route reaches the long bridge, over an arm of the 
sea, which connects Beverly and Salem. 

130.4 At the left is the shore resort, Salem Willows, 
and the islands of the harbor. Up the stream is 
seen the State Asylum for the insane, in Danvers. 

Salem (Pop. 43,700). The route through this 
interesting city is rough and crooked. (See map 
opposite.) Continuing on Bridge street, one block 
beyond the point where the trolley leaves to the 
left, the route turns to the left and at the end of the 
street, with a boulder monument to the Soldiers of 
the Civil War on the left, bears to the right along 
Washington square (common). 

13 1.4 At the Statue of Roger Conant, an early 
settler, turn to the right, passing on the left the 
Nathaniel Ward house erected in 1684, which stands 
in the grounds of the Essex Institute. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 



195 



13 1.5 At the next corner turn to the left, on St. 
Peter's street, St. Peter's Church being on the 
corner at the right. At the next comer turn to the 
right on the narrow Essex (main) street, and im- 
mediately to the left on Central street which, merg- 
ing into Lafayette, takes the tourist out of the city. 
On the left at the turn into Essex street is the East 
India Marine Hall and Museum with excellent 
collections covering a wide range of subjects. 

The locations of other points of interest in the city are 
indicated on the accompanying map of a part of the city, 
as follows: 

2. The Witch, or Roger Williams house on Essex street. 

3. The Court house, in which are shown the witch pins. 

4. Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street. 

5. The Custom House, where Hawthorne worked. 

6. The House of the Seven Gables. 



BEST ROUTE THROUGH 

SALEM, MASS 




^.fi&i 



B.&M.Sta.AJ [ I 

'3 



ha 



/?6 



of' 



196 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

13 1.6 Upon passing the statue of Father Matthew, 
the "Apostle of Temperance," the route enters 
Lafayette street, and passes through the heart 
of the territory devastated by the great fire of 
1914. 

132.5 At the yellow brick buildings of the State 
Normal school the route bears to the right. 

The road at the left leads to Marblehead and Swamp- 
scott, passing Hotel Preston at Beach Bluff and the New 
Ocean House at Swampscott. (See map, page 113, for 
this pleasant detour, which should be used if the direct 
Paradise road be closed for repairs during 19 15.) 

Leaving the trolley line the route bears to the 
left on Paradise road. 

Upon passing beneath the railroad at the entrance to 
t Swampscott a very pleasant variant to the direct route is 
had by bearing immediately to the left and continuing 
straight on over the Lynn Shore drive. On the left are the 
shores of Swampscott, and ahead is Nahant, connected 
with the mainland by the narrow isthmus which carries 
Nahant Beach. 

Before reaching this neck the route turns sharply to the 
right and rejoins the direct route at the open triangle 
(136.9). 

The direct route runs a little back from the shore 
following the trolley line which is met just beyond 
Swampscott, into 

Lynn (Pop. 89,000). This is a great center for 
the manufacture of women's shoes. 
136.9 At an open triangle on the left, is the build- 
ing of the Lynn Women's Clubs. Just beyond 
this, as the main street curves to the right, the 
route keeps straight ahead to the station (with 
clock) of the Boston & Revere Beach railroad. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 197 

J 3 7 . 3 At this point the route bears to the left ona wide 
roadway which leads at West Lynn into the Revere 
Beach boulevard. At the right are the works of 
the General Electric Company. At the left across 
Lynn Harbor, is Nahant. 

140. After crossing Saugus River, with the wide 
sweep of Revere Beach stretching out ahead, 
the tower of Boston Custom House is seen a little 
at the right. The sharp bluff at the left is Win- 
throp Highlands beyond which may be seen the 
south shore of Boston Harbor. The brick building 
on the right is the State Bath-house. 

On certain days in the summer the beach and 
its vicinity is so thronged with visitors that auto- 
mobiHng is almost impossible and is prohibited 
during stated hours. A road intended to relieve 
this situation has been constructed at the right, 
from Saugus River. At the end of the beach the 
boulevard turns toward the west. 

143.5 Just beyond the bridge crossing the rail- 
road at Revere station, on the left is a tablet 
marking the site of a Revolutionary engagement 
in which Israel Putnam won the first commission 
as Major General issued by the Continental Con- 
gress. On Powder-horn Hill at the left is the 
Soldiers* Home, Chelsea. 

145. Upon rounding the shoulder of this hill the 
view directly ahead includes Chelsea, Bunker Hill 
Monument, and the U. S. Marine Hospital on 
another hill. 

Passing through a part of Everett the route 



198 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

crosses the marshes and reaches the end of this 
botilevard. Directly ahead is Tufts College on 
College Hill. 
147.3 Here the road to Boston turns to the left. 

The direct route to Worcester, avoiding the city, turns 
to the right after crossing the trolley line. (See below.) 

Proceeding toward Boston the road crosses 
Wellington bridge, which was destroyed by fire 
in 19 14, and passing 

148.3 Broadway Park, on the left, crosses Broadway 
and ascends the hill on Walnut street. At the foot 
of the hill is Union square, Somerville, through 
which the route passes, turning to the right on 
Prospect street just beyond the railroad bridge. 

At the end of Prospect (Central square, Cam- 
bridge), we turn to the left on Massachusetts 
avenue, and after crossing the Charles River, 
enter Boston. A left turn on Commonwealth 
avenue, and right on Dartmouth street, brings us 
to Copley square (152.0). 

For Newport and New London see page 310. 

For Plymouth and Cape Cod Canal see page 299. 

To Avoid Boston 

The following connection between the North Shore and 
the main route to Springfield, entirely avoids Boston and 
its city approaches and thus makes an agreeable through 
route, particularly as the roads are excellent throughout. 

147,3 -^t the end of the Revere Beach boulevard, 
the route crosses the trolley line and turns to the 
right on the Medford boulevard. 

147.7 Leaving this boulevard by the first road at 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 199 

the left, the route follows Riverside street to Med- 
ford. 

148.4 Upon passing the brickyards on this road, 
the plantation house of Matthew Cradock, the 
first Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony, is 
on the right. This is one of the first brick houses 
built in New England and is in fact one of the oldest 
houses now standing. It was built in 1634. Its 
thick walls were intended as a defence against the 
Indians, and the small round windows were loop- 
holes. 
1 49. 1 Upon entering Medford square, the quaint 
Seccomb house, now used for city offices, stands 
on the further corner of the square. Here the 
route turns sharply to the left, across Mystic River, 
and immediately turns to the right on the Mystic 
Valley parkway. 

After passing beneath the railroad, and crossing 
Boston avenue, the route bears to the right, fol- 
lowing closely the Hne of the old Middlesex Canal. 
At the left is an extensive market-gardening 
section. 
1 5 1.2 Following the parkway to its end, the route 
makes a "hairpin" curve to the left and enters 
Arlington. This town is full of historic points con- 
nected with the Revolution, and especially with 
the battle of Lexington. The road we are now 
on was that followed by Paul Revere on his famous 
ride to arouse the countryside of the approach of 
the British troops. 
1 5 1.8 On reaching Massachusetts avenue, at the 
center of the town we pass the old Cooper Tavern 



200 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

on the corner at the left, and turn to the right on 
the avenue. This was the route of the British 
troops on the way to Lexington. 

The road to Greenfield and the Mohawk Trail continues 
on Massachusetts avenue. (See page 230.) 

Our route turns to the left at the church, on 
Pleasant street. On the left is Spy Pond (152.5). 

At No. 152 Pleasant street was the home of 
J. T. Trowbridge, the writer. The house stands 
back from the road as it curves slightly to the left, 
and the number is marked in the sidewalk. 

153.8 Skirting another portion of the market- 
gardening section, the road passes through Bel- 
mont, bearing to the right. 

154.8 At Waverly the McLean Asylum for the in- 
sane is passed on the right and the Beaver Brook 
Reservation on the left. Here the route turns 
sharply to the left at a dangerous corner. In the 
reservation are the Waverly oaks, famous trees 
of great size and age. 

From this point the route keeps straight through 
on the main road and after passing beneath the 
railroad, enters 

156.9 Waltham. Here, as the route keeps straight 
through the center of the city, the great watch 
works are on the left (157.4), but are not clearly 
seen. 

158. Beyond Waltham the route bears to the left 
and, crossing the railroad at Stony Brook station, 
enters Weston (160.8), where it joins the route 
from Boston to Springfield. (See page 256.) 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 201 



(3) Plymouth, N. H., to Boston, 138.2 Miles 

Reverse of route described on pages 102-115. 

o. Plymouth (Elevation 473 feet). Running south 
on the main street, the route follows the valley 
of the Pemigewasset River to Bridgewater station. 

4.2 Crossing the river, the road soon reaches 

5.8 Ashland, and turns sharply to the left in the 
center of the village. On the right is Little Squam 
Lake, the shores of which are followed to 

9.9 fHolderness. Passing White Oak Pond on the 
right, the route soon reaches Squam Lake, on the 
left, beyond which rises the bulk of Red Hill. 

Around the shores of Squam Lake are many fine summer 
places and across the lake, at the foot of Red Hill, is the 
location of the Summer Engineering school of Harvard 
University. (See map, pages 208-209, for complete lay- 
out of routes in the Winnepesaukee District.) 

18. Meredith. Passing directly through the town 
the route crosses the railroad at the station and at 
once begins the ascent of a long, steep hill. 

20.3 The climb brings its own compensation, for 
at the summit is one of the most beautiful views 
in this region. Lake Winnepesaukee, with its 
many islands is spread out below, hedged about 
with a multitude of hills. Looking backward 
the peaks of the Sandwich Range are seen. White- 
face and Passaconaway rising over the top of Red 
Hill and Chocorua a little to the right. Nearer 
at hand, on the northern border of the lake are the 



202 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Ossipee Mountains, the highest peak of which is 
Mt. Shaw. South of the lake He the Belknap 
Mountains, which are better seen as the route 
descends the hill. 
2 2.S Coming down from the heights, upon reach- 
ing the level of Lake Winnepesaukee (500 feet), 
the village of Weirs is on the left. This is a 
populous summer resort and the place at which 
connection is made from the railroad to points on 
the lake by steamer. 

22.6 When crossing the outlet of the lake, on the 
left is Endicott^s Rock, covered by a canopy which 
is surmounted by the figure of an Indian looking 
away over the lake. At this point also was the 
fish weir where the Indians were accustomed to 
take great numbers of shad. Endicott's Rock was 
marked in 1652 by surveyors sent out by John 
Endicott, Governor of the Massachusetts Bay 
Colony, to determine the location of the head- 
waters of the Merrimack River. It was understood 
that the boundary of the colony ran with the 
course of the river and three miles distant from it. 
Endicott therefore claimed that Massachusetts 
extended to a point three miles beyond this rock, 
which was marked as the headwaters of the river. 
All that remains of this peculiar boundary line 
is the portion between Lowell and the sea. The 
rock bears the governor's name, the initials of the 
surveyors and commissioners and the date. A 
large modern tablet behind the rock, within the 
canopy, recites the story of the expedition. 

Just beyond the outlet, which bears the name 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 203 

of Winnepesaukee River, the route turns to the 
right along the shores of Long Bay. 

The road straight ahead leads along the shores of 
Winnepesaukee Lake with excellent views and many hills to 
t Alton Bay, and thence to Rochester. (See map, page 208.) 

Passing through Lakeport, the route reaches 
Laconia, a manufacturing town containing large 
car works. Here the route turns sharply to the 
left around the Inn and passing through the main 
street turns to the right, and runs along the shores 
of Lake Winnesquam. 
31.8 While crossing between this lake and San- 
bornton Bay at Winnesquam station the last 
general view of the Sandwich Range is obtained 
at the right. Over Mt. Israel, which seems to be 
the left-hand section of Red Hill, is Sandwich 
Dome and the shde-scarred Tri-pyramid. Above 
Red Hill rise Whiteface and Passaconaway, while 
still farther to the right is the rounded Toad Back 
or Paugus Mountain and the sharp peak of 
Chocorua. 







/^ Ossipee 


/ RecfH>ll \ 



Sd/?c/^/c/? /^dn^e from l^/nnepesaakee Ouf/et 

3 8 . Tilton. When approaching Tilton the Memorial 
Arch of the Tilton family is seen crowning one of 
the hills at the center of the town. This arch is 



204 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

fifty-five feet in height. On the opposite hill, 
directly above the route on the right, at the first 
railroad crossing, is the Tilton residence, and also 
Tilton Seminary (with a clock in its tower). 

Besides the great memorial arch, Tilton is 
embellished by two overgrown parks, one at each 
end of the town, and a number of statues, among 
which is that of the Indian Chieftain S quantum, 
which stands at the railroad station. 

40.3 At the top of the grade beyond Tilton is a 
tablet on the right calling attention to a stone 
mortar used by the Indians and early settlers of 
Sanbornton for grinding corn, etc. This samp 
mortar is contained in the first boulder or out- 
cropping of ledge immediately behind the tablet, 
and is well worth a visit. 

Descending through Franklin Falls, the route 
crosses the Pemigewasset River near the point 
where, by its junction with the Winnepesaukee, 
the Merrimack is formed. 

41.9 Franklin. The route here doubles sharply 
upon itself, the road straight ahead leading to 
Bristol and Newfound Lake. 

44.4 At Webster Place station on the left, is an 
Orphans' Home and School. The original house 
of this group is Elm Farm, one of the homes of 
Daniel Webster from 1800 until the time of his 
death in 1852. In front of the house is a boulder 
bearing an appropriately inscribed tablet. A 
few miles at the right of the route is Salisbury, 
the birthplace of the great statesman. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 205 

47.5 At Gerrish is the Merrimack County farm. 
51. Boscawen. This is a pleasant old village lying 
quietly in the river valley. 

51.5 Somewhat below the center of the town, on the 
left, are two tablets; one marking the site of the old 
law office of Daniel Webster and the other the 
birthplace of General John Dix, who began his 
career at the age of fourteen as a soldier in the war 
of 18 12. As Secretary of the Treasury under 
President Buchanan he sent to New Orleans the 
famous message, "If anyone attempts to haul down 
the American flag, shoot him on the spot." 

51.9 Behind the last house in the village, on the 
right, is a boulder marking the site of the Old Fort 
which was 100 feet square and was built of hewn 
logs. As the river furnished the best pathway for 
the Indians, this fort, like some of those which were 
erected along the Connecticut valley, was placed on 
a bench which dropped sharply to the river bottom. 

53.7 Penacook. On the left is an old Inn, bearing 
the date 1787. 

54.1 Here the road crosses the Contoocook River at 
the junction of which with the Merrimack, a short 
distance at the left, is Dustings Island, where, in 
1697, Hannah Dustin, who had been taken captive 
by the Indians at Haverhill, Mass., killed her 
captors and escaped by way of the river. 

58.6 Passing the State Prison on the right, the road 
enters 

60.0 t Concord (Pop. 21,000). This is the capital of 

New Hampshire. At the center of the city, on the 



206 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

right, is the Capitol) surrounded by other public 
buildings. On the right is the State Library and 
behind it the Post Office, City Hall and Historical 
building. Opposite is the Eagle Hotel. 

In front of the State House, the grounds of which 
are entered through a Soldiers* memorial archway, 

are statues of General Stark, Daniel Webster, and 
John P. Hale, who was the first avowed anti- 
slavery member of the United States Senate. At 
the left of the archway is the newly erected statue 
of Franklin Pierce. Behind the State House is a 
statue of Com. George H. Perkins, whom Farragut 
called "the bravest man that ever trod the deck of 
a ship." 

A mile west of the center of the city on Pleasant street is 
Pleasant View, the former home of Mrs. Mary Baker 
Eddy, and a little beyond, at the right, is a monument 
marking the site of an Indian massacre in 1747. 

Farther out on the same road is St. Paul's school for 
boys. 

Some distance below the State House, at 52 
South Main street, is the former home of President 
Pierce, on the right. The house is marked by a 
stone on the lawn and a companion stone in the 
same grounds, marks the site of an old garrison 
house. 

61.5 At the lower end of the city the route bears 
to the left at a prominent fork and crosses the 
Merrimack. At the fork of the roads a little be- 
yond, on the right, is a tablet marking the site of 
another garrison house. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 207 

65.2 Pembroke. Near the end of this village on 
the left, is an old mile-post bearing the date 1793 
and the letters D. K., which were undoubtedly the 
initials of the keeper of the tavern before which it 
stood. The hitching ring in this stone is an unusual 
feature. From the elevated ridge on which^ the 
road is now running the view behind on the right, 
includes Mt. Kearsarge. 

67.3 At Suncook the route follows the trolley line 
through the town, crossing the Suncook River at 
the foot of a rather steep grade. At the right is 
seen Hooksett Pinnacle, surmounted by a tower; 
and the town of t Hooksett located at the falls of the 
Merrimack, which bear the same name. 

68.9 On the left at the brow of a sharp decline, is an 
almost undecipherable mile-stone bearing the date 
1790. 
70.3 On the left, opposite a road which comes in at 
the right is another mile-stone, this one well pre- 
served, and giving the distance to Haverhill as 
thirty-two, and to Chester, sixteen miles. 
70.5 A little beyond, on the left, is St. Mary's Roman 
Catholic school for girls. 

Manchester (Pop. 70,000), is the largest city m 
the State and a great cotton milling center, the mills 
standing in soHd ranks along the river which has a 
fall of about fifty feet. 

This was a great fishing resort of the Indians, as 
multitudes of shad, salmon, alewives and eels, fairly 
crowded each other in their passage up the falls 
"so that you could not put your hand in without 



208 



To North Conway 



To North Cc 




Center ^^=^ |@ 1915 Henry Mac Nair| 



To Concord 



LAKE WINNIP 



To North Conway 



209 



Moultonvill 

Mt. Shaw 
^ * Dm Hole 







DISTRICT 



To Portsmouth 



210 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

touching some of them." The early settlers of the 
region were accustomed also to congregate here in 
considerable numbers during the run of the fish. 
The early name of the town was Derrjrfield, and eels 
were called "Derryfield beef" on account of the 
number used for food in this vicinity. It is said 
that "eels enough were salted down in a single year 
to be equal to 300 head of cattle." So much for 
our fish story. 

Returning now to the route, we enter the city on 
Webster street, and may turn to the left either on 
Chestnut street, opposite the fire engine house, or 
on Elm, which is the main street of the city. The 
latter is wide, and not often overcrowded. 

79. A little below the business center we turn to the 
right on Granite street and, passing the railroad 
station, on the left, have a glimpse of some of the 
mills at the right. The route here crosses the 
Merrimack and a block beyond turns to the left on 
Second street, which leads us out of the city. 

The only village in the next ten miles is that of 
Reed^s Ferry. A little west of this place is the 
birthplace of Walter Kittredge, the author of 
"Tenting on the Old Camp Ground." 

89.4 At Merrimack the road crosses the Souhegan 
River. 

91.9 Thornton's Ferry. At the crossroads, on the 
left is a monument erected by the State to Dr. 
Matthew Thornton, a signer of the Declaration of 
Independence. 

94.4 On the right is the pumping station for the 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 211 

water system of Nashua. As the route enters the 
city it passes through a part of its best residential 
section. 
97.0 Nashua (Pop. 26,000). Opposite the park on 
the right which contains the soldiers' monument, is 
the Public Library. By reason of a quarrel over the 
location of the town hall, this portion of the city 
was once separated from that immediately beyond, 
and incorporated under the name of Nashville, but 
after a separate existence of eleven years the breach 
was healed and the two parts of the town were re- 
united under a city charter. 

The route passes the "City" railroad station, on 
the left, and crossing Nashua River, continues 
straight through the city. The larger manu- 
factories of cotton, shoes, etc., are located a little 
east of the business center, along the railroads and 
Nashua River. 

A change in the line of relative elevations is apparent 
in this region. Instead of coming in from the northward, 
the Souhegan River enters from the west, the Nashua rises 
in the vicinity of Mt. Wachusett thirty miles to the south- 
west, and the Concord, which enters at Lowell, comes 
directly from the south. Below Nashua the course of the 
Merrimack itself changes from south to east. 

97.5 On the left is the John M. Hunt Home for aged 

couples. 

The territory now occupied by Nashua was 

formerly included in a large tract of land which was 

chartered as Dunstable, a name now apphed only 

to a portion of the tract in Massachusetts. 

98. 5 Soon after leaving the city, opposite the end of 



212 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the street car line, is a tablet marking the site of the 
first church in Dunstable. 

100.5. ^^ the old cemetery on the right, is a monu- 
ment to a second church, and a little beyond on the 
left is a tablet to a third of these old Dunstable 
churches. 

I o 1 . 5 The boundary stone marking the State line is 
on the right, and the route enters Massachusetts. 

103.6 At Tyngsboro the route crosses the Merri- 
mack River, and turning to the right, follows the 
Merrimack boulevard along the banks of the 
river to Lowell. 

104.5 About a mile below the bridge there may be 
seen on the right, across the river, a large yellow 
house sitting on the high land back from the road. 
This is the Jonathan Tyng estate. Here Hannah 
Dustin stopped on her return from Indian captivity 
in 1697. In the lane leading to the house stands a 
boulder monument to the memory of Wannalancet, 
the last sachem of the Merrimack Indians, who 
died here in 1696. 

105.6 Tyng's Island, on the right, which is the home 
of the Vesper Country Club of Lowell, was the 
favorite dwelling place of Wannalancet and his 
father Passaconaway. These important chieftains 
among the Indians of New Hampshire were always 
faithful friends of the Colonists. Their names are 

, perpetuated in two peaks of the Sandwich Range. 

107. On the opposite side of the river is North 
Chelmsford. 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 213 

no. Passing, on the right, the dam at Pawtucket 
Falls the road turns to the right at the top of a 
slight grade, opposite the yellow brick buildings of 
the Lowell Textile school, and crossing the Merri- 
mack, enters 

no. 2 Lowell (Pop. 106,000). This is a great cotton 
manufacturing city, the water power for use of the 
mills being obtained from the falls of the Merri- 
mack, which has here a perpendicular descent of 
thirty-four feet. The water is carried to the mills 
by canals which have a total length of several 
miles. More than 20,000 horsepower is developed 
by the water. The first canal built at this point 
was intended to facilitate the navigation of the 
river. This was in 1792. The next year the great 
Middlesex canal was begun, which extended to 
Boston and was superseded by the railroad. 

The first mills were established here about 1823. 
The mill girls of Lowell, about 1840, attracted inter- 
national attention by their high standards of living and 
intellectual attainments. Their condition contrasted so 
favorably with that of the mill girls of Europe that Charles 
Dickens, who visited them in 1842, wrote: "I solemnly de- 
clare that from all the crowd I saw in the different factories 
that day, I cannot recall or separate one young face that 
gave me a painful impression." And again, "They have 
got up among themselves a periodical called the Lowell 
Offering, a repository of original articles written ex- 
clusively by the females employed in the mills, which is 
duly printed, published and sold; and whereof I brought 
away from Lowell four hundred good solid pages, which I 
have read from beginning to end." The Lowell Offering 
was regularly published for a number of years and in- 
cluded among its contributors Lucy Larcom, who as a girl 
was a worker in one of the mills. 



214 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

After crossing the river, the route continues 
straight ahead to the center of the business portion 
of the city, first on Moody street, and then on 
Merrimack. 
II0.8 At the junction of these streets on the right 
stands the City Hall, before which is the statue 
"Victory" and a monument to the memory of 
Charles A. Taylor and his companions, the first to 
fall in defence of the Union at Baltimore, April 
19, 1861. 

Here one of the canals supplying power, to the 
mills is crossed and just beyond on the left is St. 
Anne's Episcopal church, erected in 1824, "A 
monument to the religious purpose which animated 
the first manufacturers." This was the first church 
edifice erected in Lowell. 

111. Turning sharply to the right with a branch 
trolley line on Central street, the route bears to the 
left at an open triangle and immediately turns to 
the left on Church street. 

112. Upon crossing the Concord River, the route 
turns to the right on High street and at the end of 
the street turns to the left and follows the trolley 
line out of the city. 

1 12.4 When making this last turn, Fort Hill park is 

directly ahead. 
1 12.7 On the right is the Shedd playground. 
1 14.3 At Wamesit, which was the Indian name of 

this region, and of the tribe which inhabited it, the 

road crosses the railroad. After passing through 

the village of 



THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 215 

1 1 6. 1 Tewksbury, the State almshouse is seen over 

at the left. 
121. On the right is Silver Lake. 

12 1.6 Just beyond Wilmington Junction the route 
bears to the right and winds across the country to 
North Woburn and 

126.7 Woburn. On the square here, at the right, 
under glass, is a ventilator cowl of the Battleship 
Maine, a boulder monument to soldiers and sailors 
of the Spanish War and the Civil War monument. 

129. Winchester. This is an attractive residential 
town pleasantly located at the head of the Mystic 
Lakes, along the borders of which runs a fine boule- 
vard. The route crosses the railroad at the station 
and follows the trolley Hne. On the left is the city 
farm of Medford. 

13 1. 5 Upon entering Medford the road passes the 
Armory, on the right. Opposite this is the Public 
Library which occupies the house of Thacher 
Magoun, a noted Medford shipbuilder who learned 
his trade in the yard where the Constitution was 
built. This house was built by Magoun as much 
like one of his ships as possible, all of the rooms save 
two of high stud, which were intended for the social 
purposes of his wife, being made like a ship's cabins. 
Notwithstanding the changes necessary to adapt 
the house to the purposes of the Library, the unique 
character of the construction is evident upon a 
glance within the doors of the building. 

Just beyond this, on the left, a glance between 
the buildings on the street will reveal a fine stone 



216 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

garrison house, and on the corner of the square 
immediately beyond stands the quaint old Seccomb 
house, now used for municipal offices. 

131 . 8 The route turns to the right across the bridge 
over Mystic River and a little beyond bears to the 
left on Mystic avenue, which is unattractive but 
direct. 

133.9 -^t Broadway Park we turn to the right along 
the Park, cross Broadway and ascend the hill ahead 
on Walnut street. 

135. Turning to the left at the foot of the hill we run 
through Union stjuare, Somerville, and just beyond 
the center of the concrete railroad bridge turn 
halfway to the right on Prospect street. 

136. 1 At Central square, Cambridge, the route turns 
to the left on Massachusetts avenue. Crossing 
Charles River, by Harvard bridge, we enter f Boston. 
A left turn on Commonwealth avenue and a right on 
Dartmouth street brings us to Copley square 
(138.2). 

For New York via Springfield, see page 256. 

For New York via Newport and the shore, see page 310. 




The Farragut at Rye Beach 




One of New Hampshire's Giant Elms 



Down the Connecticut 
Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, 169 Miles 

Reverse of route described in Chapter II 
The first section of this route takes us back to road 
conditions which prevailed throughout the greater 
part of New England until within a very few years. 
From Plymouth to the region of Sunapee Lake the 
route passes over roads which are "worked" rather 
than "improved." 

There are some advantages, however, in riding 
occasionally on these ordinary country roads. Not 
only is the value of the State highway work more 
clearly impressed upon us, but in getting away from 
the beaten paths we gain new experiences and find 
fresh scenes. 

217 



218 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, 169 Miles 

Reverse of route described on pages 36-47 

o. Plymouth. The route runs west from the center 
of the town on High street, up-grade, with the hotel 
on the left. 

i.o At the top of the hill we may either turn to the 
left, with signs, or keep straight ahead into the 
valley of Baker River. 

3.5 Pursuing the latter course, the route turns to the 
left at a prominent fork, and follows up the side 
valley toward the south. 

8.7 Upon ascending a long grade. Newfound Lake 
lies ahead at the right. This lake is about nine 
miles long and has an elevation of 650 feet. 

16.5 After following the shores of the lake for about 
seven miles, the road turns sharply to the right at 
its foot and follows Newfound River to the outskirts 
of Bristol. This river is only two miles in length 
but is very swift. 

17.3 Turning to the right off the main road at the 
entrance to Bristol, the route crosses the river and 
runs over a shoulder of Round Top Hill. 

19.0 Upon reaching the valley of Smith River the 
route turns to the right and follows the stream 
closely, crossing it three times, to 

26.0 Elmwood. The route turns to the right across 
the outlet of Bog Pond, which is at the left. 

27.4 Danbury. Crossing the railroad at the station 
the route turns to the left and running south 



DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 219 

follows the railroad through South D anbury to 
West Andover. 

On this portion of the route, Mt. Kearsarge 
(elevation 2,900 feet), lies directly ahead. 

35.7 Just beyond West Andover the route turns to 
the west, and passes through Wilmot Flats. 

38.9 Passing a small pond on the right, the road 
reaches the village of Elkins, and turns to the left 
along the shores of Pleasant Pond. 

40.3 Ascending a long grade the route turns to the 
right at a four-corners and continues to ascend. 
At the top of the grade is a broad view at the right 
over Pleasant Pond to the hills of Wilmot and the 
mountains beyond. The elevation at this point is 
about 1,400 feet. 

42.0 The road now descends to the village of New 
London and turns to the right on the main street, 
passing Colby Academy on the right. 

42.6 Turning to the left and then to the right, the 
road soon overlooks Little Sunapee or Twin Lake. 

The road at the left (45.0) leads to Soo Nipi Park Lodge 

47.1 On the right is Otter Pond, along the shores of 
which the roads runs to George*s Mills. Here 
the head of Lake Sunapee is passed at the left. 

49.6 After passing a road on the left leading to 
The Granliden, the only general view of Lake 
Sunapee obtained from this route, is had at the 
left. While descending the hill toward Sunapee 
Harbor, the Sunapee and Lempster Mountains are 



220 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

seen ahead, the former rising directly from the 
foot of the lake. 

50.6 At Sunapee Harbor (the village and an arm of 
the lake are a short distance at the left) the road 
turns to the right along the Sugar River, and pass- 
ing through the village of Guild, enters 

56.6 fNewport (Pop. 4,000; elevation 850 feet). 
Here the route reaches the Western boulevard, one 
of the roads which the State of New Hampshire 
is constructing and maintaining between the White 
Mountains and the lower borders of the State. 
The distinguishing color of this route is blue and 
the markings are very clear between Newport and 
the Massachusetts State line sixty miles below, 
even on the two or three stretches where the im- 
provement of the road is not completed. At the 
center of the town the route turns to the left on 
Main street, crosses Sugar River and ascends its 
south branch. 

61.4 Passing through Mill Village, the route follows 
the stream toward its headwaters. 

64. On the left are the Lempster Mountains, with 
elevations of from 1,800 to 2,000 feet, and this 
range is prominently in the view for the next 
five miles. 

72. On the left is Trout Pond. Between this point 
and Stone Pond is the height of land on this portion 
of the route. The waters of Trout Pond flow 
north into the Sugar River and thence into the 
Connecticut, while Stone Pond feeds the Ashuelot 
River, the waters of which reach the Connecticut 



DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 221 

some fifty miles below the mouth of the Sugar 
River. 
76.6 At Marlow the route turns to the left, crosses 
a mill pond and follows the valley of the upper 
Ashuelot to 
83.5 Gilsum. Here again the route turns to the 
left in the village and soon leaves the river, which 
is finally crossed by a stone arch (84.2).^ A 
little at the right, down the stream, at this point, 
is a boulder known as the DeviPs Chair. Part 
way up the following grade, on the left, is a mica 
mine (84.7). The road now descends a long 
grade to 

fKeene (Pop. 10,000). This attractive city, with 

its wide, well-shaded streets and well-kept places, 

is the commercial center of southwestern New 

Hampshire. 

91.6 At the entrance to the city the county jail 

is passed at an open triangle, on the right. 
92.1 The route passes Central square with the 
Soldiers' monument on the right, crosses the rail- 
road at the station, and turns to the right on 
Winchester street (92.6). At this turn, the State 
Normal School is on the left. After crossing the 
Ashuelot River, the course of which is followed 
for about twenty miles, excellent views are had 
on the left of Mt. Monadnock. 
97.8 West Swanzey. The route does not pass 
through the center of the village. 

To visit the former home of Denman Thompson {^4 
mile), turn to the left through a covered bridge and at 



222 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the first corner curve to the right. The Thompson place 
is on the right, with smooth paving before it. Denman 
Thompson's grave may be seen from the road, in the 
cemetery at the left, near the house. 

After leaving West Swanzey, the hills straight 
ahead are the Ashuelot Mountains (1,400 feet). 
The high tension electric wires seen at various 
points are the lines of the Connecticut River 
Power Company. 
1 00. 1 Passing through the village of Westporti 
the route skirts the base of the Ashuelot Moun- 
tains crosses the outlet of Forest Lake, giving a 
glimpse of the lake on the left, and enters Win- 
chester. 

105.6 In Winchester square is a memorial church, 
erected on the site of the adoption of the Universalist 
creed in 1802, a soldiers' monument and the town 
hall. The route here turns sharply to the right 
across the river and immediately to the left. Gen. 
Leonard Wood was born in one of the houses in 
the wooden block seen across the river at the left 
after crossing the bridge. 

108.6 Along the river, at Ashuelot village and below, 
are several manufactories of tissue paper. 

1 1 1.6 Hinsdale. At the lower end of the village 
the route turns to the left across the Ashuelot 
River. 

The road straight ahead, up-grade, is the route to 
Brattleboro, Vt., seven and one-half miles. 

The plant of the Connecticut River Power Com- 
pany is in Hinsdale, but is not seen from the route. 



DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 223 

Leaving Hinsdale, the route now enters the 
valley of the Connecticut River, and the views are 
wide and pleasing. Ahead are the Northfield 
hills in Massachusetts, and at the right, across the 
river, the hills of Vermont. 

1 16.6 The New Hampshire-Massachusetts State 
line is crossed, the monument being on the left. 
A second stone is in a field on the right. 

1 17.6 fNorthfield. The monument at the left on the 
up-grade at the entrance to fEast Northfield, is 
erected to Nathaniel Dickinson, killed and scalped 
by Indians at this spot, 1747. Immediately be- 
yond, on the left, is an entrance to the grounds of 
Northfield Seminary (D. L. Moody school for girls). 

1 1 7 . 7 The white house on the left near the top of the 
grade is the D. L. Moody residence, and just above, 
on the right, is his favorite "Sunset Tree," from 
which there is a most attractive view. 

In the ledge in front of the Congregational 
Church, on the left, is cut this inscription: "Here, 
July 23, 1748, Aaron Belding was killed and scalped 
by the Indians." 

Immediately after passing the church, the Schell 
mansion "Greytowers," is seen over at the left. 

The Northfield, over at the left is a large temperance 
hotel, operated in connection with the Moody schools. 

After crossing a short bridge into Northfield 
proper, on the right is a boulder monument marking 
the site of an early fort. 

Northfield street, 200 feet wide and lined with 
four rows of old elms, is one of the finest of 



224 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the many beautiful village streets in New Eng- 
land. 
1 18.6 On the left is the Library and (119.0) the 
Belcher Memorial Fountain. 

1 19.3 On the right is a tablet marking the site of 
the first settlement of the town in 1672. 

1 19.6 The boulder monument on the left at the foot 
of the street marks the site of a large oak tree 
beneath which the first religious services in the town 
were held, 1673. Turning to the right out of 
Northfield street, Mt. Hermon, the Moody school 
for boys lies directly ahead across the river. 

120.4 Descending a winding grade, the Connecticut 
is crossed. On the grade up from the river, a road 
at the left leads to Mt. Hermon school, open to 
visitors, and commanding a fine view of the Con- 
necticut valley. The return to the main route is 
by a road leading through "The Pines." 

1 2 1 . 7 When ascending the grade after turning to the 
left at a prominent three-corners the fine grove 
known as the Mt. Hermon Pines, may be seen at 
the left. The route now runs over a gently roll- 
ing country to 

124.9 Bernardston. Turning to the left at the end 
of the road, with the hotel on the right, the route 
passes through a prosperous farming country. 

Entering Greenfield, the square tower at the 
left is the Poet's Seat, on Rocky Mountain, com- 
manding a fine view of the valleys of the Connect- 
icut and Deerfield rivers. 

The Weldon Hotel is on High street. 

For the Mohawk Trail to Williamstown, see page 244. 



DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 225 

13 1 .6 t Greenfield is a pleasant town, with a popula- 
tion of 10,500. Passing straight across Main 
street, with the Soldiers* monument on the right, 
the route descends beneath the railroad at the 
station and, turning left, follows Green River to 
its confluence with the Deerfield. 

132.9 Here, at an unusual collection of bridges 
the Deerfield River is crossed where it breaks 
through the hills to join the Connecticut. Be- 
yond the valley which now opens on the right, 
rises Arthur's Seat, around which the railroad 
makes a long detour to the south on its way to the 
Hoosac tunnel. 

Deerfield, the scene of many Indian attacks 
between 1675 ^^^ i709> contains many old houses 
particularly rich in Colonial doorways, and is the 
seat of the manufacture of fine basketry and hand- 
woven fabrics. Many sites on both sides of the 
streets are marked by tablets. 

134,9 At the center of the village, on the green at 
the right, is the Soldiers' monument, and the site 
of the "Old Indian House," the stout door of which, 
hacked by the tomahawks of the Indians, is pre- 
served in Memorial Hall. Here too, by the road- 
side, is a brownstone fountain-to-be marking the 
site of the old fort well. 

Just beyond the green, a road at^the left leads 
to the nearby Memorial Hall, which contains 
remarkable collections of Indian and Colonial 
relics. Upon leaving the village, the Pocumtuck 
(Indian name of this region) range of hills is at 
the left. 



226 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

136.5 Mill Village. 

137.5 Sugar Loaf Mountain is ahead, on the left. 
From his headquarters on the southern peak of 
this mountain King Philip is said to have directed 
the movements of his warriors in their attacks 
upon the settlements in the valley below. 

138.5 From the overhead railroad crossing at the 
entrance to South Deerfield, Mt. Tom may be 
seen directly down the track. 

139.4 Here, at Bloody Brook, in September, 1675, 
Captain Lathrop and his band, "the flower of 
Essex" (Essex County, Mass.) were ambushed and 
killed by the Indians. A monument marking the 
site is on the left, in a small triangle. 

At the end of the village, with the Lathrop Hotel 
on the r'ght, the route keeps straight ahead toward 
Northampton, through a rich farming country 
carrying heavy crops of tobacco, corn, onions, etc. 

142.4 Whateley village is seen at the right, and the 
Holyoke range of mountains soon comes into view 
ahead. 

148.4 Laurel Park, a Methodist camp-meeting 
ground, is passed on the right. Here an attractive 
view to the rear includes the Sugar Loaf peaks 
and Mt. Toby, with the Connecticut valley be- 
tween thenf. 

149.9 Hatfield village is seen at the left. 

1 5 1.3 t Northampton (Pop. 19,500). Upon entering 
the city, Round Hill, where Jenny Lind spent 
her honeymoon in 1852, is over at the right. 



DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 227 

On the left, standing a little back from the street, 
is a yellow brick house bearing a tablet. This 
is the site of the home of Jonathan Edwards, 
the great preacher and writer who ministered to 
the church in Northampton from 1727 to 1750. 
In front of this house stood the Edwards elm which 
fell in 1 9 13. The great stump is seen near the 
street. 

To visit Smith College (^ mile), turn right on 
Main street and pass the group of public buildings on the 
left. The college is on the right at the top of the slight 
hill. 

To visit Mt. Holyoke, turn to the left on Main street, 
under the railroad, and cross the Connecticut to Hadley. 
The Hockannum ferry at the base of the mountain fur- 
nishes a picturesque but not altogether desirable route. 
The view from this mountain, which may be ascended by 
automobile (10 per cent grades) has often been called the 
finest in America. 

Leaving the city and approaching the Mt. 
Tom Range, Mt. Holyoke with its hotel and 
passenger elevator is at the left. 

153.6 The Ox Bow of the Connecticut, so prominent 
in the view from Mt. Holyoke, is passed on the 
right. 

Skirting the base of the Mt. Tom Range and 
passing Smith's Ferry and the Holyoke Canoe Club 

House on the left, the road follows the Connecticut 
closely, rising with attractive views toward Holyoke. 
Mt, Tom with its pavilion is seen near at hand, 
on the right. 

158.2 At the entrance to Mt. Tom park, where 



228 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

cars arc taken for the ascent of the peak, is Kenil- 
worth Castle, on the right, commanding a fine 
view. Passing through the Highlands of fHolyoke, 
the route avoids the city proper and descending 
again to the level of the river, follows it closely 
to Springfield. 

Holyoke (Pop. 57,700) is the seat of very large manu- 
factories of paper, etc., power for the operation of which 
is furnished by the Connecticut River. The water is car- 
ried by canals in three levels, with a total fall of sixty feet. 
A new hotel, The Nonotuck, will be opened during the 
Summer of 1915. 

167. West Springfield. At the entrance to the 
Connecticut River bridge, is the Common in which 
is a boulder monument marking the site of an 
encampment of Hessians in the Revolution. 

Crossing the river the route enters f Springfield, 
and passing on the left the monument to Spanish 
War soldiers and the Memorial church, reaches 
Main street, and the center of the city, (169). 

The Kimball Hotel is reached by a left turn on Bridge 
street to Chestnut. 

The route to Hartford continues on Main street. (See 
page 265.) 

The route to Boston turns to the left on State street. 
(See page 50.) 




The Connecticut River and Mt. Holyoke 




The Aspinwall at Lenox, Mass. 

XI 

Toward the Berkshires 
Boston to Greenfield, 98.4 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter XV 
This route across the State furnishes a pleasing 
variant to those who are familiar with the Post Road 
and is, moreover, the logical approach from eastern 
Nev/ England to the Mohawk Trail. 

The road is neither so uniformly good, nor so easy 
to follow, as that across the State by way of Wor- 
cester and Springfield although beyond Fitchburg, 
both these objections are removed. 

The ascent of the ridge which crosses central Mas- 
sachusetts, is made with an almost entire absence 
of the steep grades which are encountered on the 
Post Road, although the elevation attained is prac- 
tically the same. ^ . 

Not the least interesting feature of the route is its 
passage through the towns of Lexington and Con- 
cord, with their unique experiences in war and 
Uterature. 

229 



230 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Boston to Greenfield, Mass., 98.4 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 286-297 

o. t Boston, Copley square. Running north on Dart- 
mouth street the route turns to the left on Common- 
wealth avenue, or Beacon street, and at Mas- 
sachusetts avenue turns to the right across Harvard 
Bridge over Charles River. 

1.5 Cambridge (Pop. 105,000). The route con- 
tinues on Massachusetts avenue, through the city, 
passing the City Hall, on the right. 

3.1 At Harvard square, the main buildings of the 
university are on the right. The campus is en- 
closed by a fence which has been given by various 
graduate classes. The Colonial residence within 
this enclosure at the Harvard square end was the 
home of the college presidents for 120 years. 

The route turns to the right, along the 
college grounds, and passes the statue of Charles 
Sumner on the right, at the apex of the subway 
entrance. On the right also, is a flag pole, which 
is a memorial of the suffering and fortitude of the 
men and women of Cambridge during the Revolu- 
tion. 

Over at the right beyond the subway entrance 
are two tablets, one of which marks the birthplace 
of Oliver Wendell Holmes. On the left is the 
Common, which was "the muster field where the 
army of the Revolution had its being." It was 
also the place of arms of the settlers of 1631, and 
here the flag of thirteen stripes was first flung to 
the breeze. 



TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 231 

A tablet in the Common near the street, marks 
the spot where, in 1630, stood an ancient oak under 
which were held Colonial elections. The tree 
under which it stands, is a scion of the Washington 
elm. The old tree beneath which Washington 
took command of the army, is seen across the 
Common, just in hne with the church. The 
monument at the further end of the Common is 
that of John Bridge, an early settler. 
4.2 Crossing above the railroad at Cambridge 
station, the route continues on Massachusetts 
avenue to 
6.5 Arlington. On the right just before reaching 
the railroad, is the Cooper Tavern, one of the many 
relics of that day in April, 1775, when the British 
marched over this road on their way to Lexington, 
and returned along the same road harrassed on 
every side by the attacks of the minute-men. 

Here in the center of Ariington came Paul 
Revere from Medford, at the right, and from this 
point our route coincides with that of his famous 
ride to warn the countryside of the approach^ of 
the British. Arlington has many tablets marking 
the events of that momentous day. 

Continuing through Arlington Heights the route 
reaches East Lexington, at which point a prom- 
inent road at the left furnishes the most direct 
route to Concord. Our route continues through 
Lexington, passing on the left the Monroe Tavern, 
sitting a Uttle back from the road. This was the 
headquarters of Lord Percy when he came with the 




The "Minute-Man" Statue of Captain John Parker 



TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 233 

reinforcements to the relief of the regulars who had 
been worsted in the fight from Concord. 
• On the right near the junction of Woburn street, 
at the High School, is a stone cannon marking the 
spot where Lord Percy planted a field piece which 
held the minute-men in check. After passing the 
Town Hall, on the right, we come in sight of 
1 1.5 The statue of Capt. John Parker, who com- 
manded the Lexington men. This statue, which 
surmounts the Hayes memorial fountain, stands 
at the apex of the Common facing the line of 
British advance. This was Lexington battlefield 
where the British regulars first fired upon the 
minute-men, who were drawn up to confront them. 

Across the street, at the right, is the Buckman 
Tavern, which was the headquarters of the minute- 
men after they had been aroused by Paul Revere 
on the night before the battle. 

On the Common, besides the statue already 
mentioned, are Pulpit Rock, which marks the site 
of the first three meeting-houses in the town, a 
boulder monument marking the line of the minute- 
men, and the ivy-covered monument which is 
probably the oldest memorial of the Revolution 
in the country. Behind the Pulpit is an elm which 
was planted by General Grant at the centennial 
celebration of the battle. 

Somewhat off the route, on Hancock street which bears 
to the right near the boulder monument, is the house 
where Samuel Adams and John Hancock were sleeping 
when aroused by Revere. Here also was living at the 
time Dorothy Quincy, who soon afterward became Han- 
cock's wife. 



234 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

1 1.5 From the Minute-man, the route bears to the 
left, with the common on the right, and at the end 
of the common continues to the left on the road 
to Concord. 

12.9 As the route turns to the right on the road from 
East Lexington, is a tablet on the left, marking the 
place where a stand was made on the retreat from 
Concord. 

The present State road follows in general, but 
not in particular, the route of Paul Revere as well 
as that of the British advance and retreat. When 
about two o'clock in the morning Revere' reached 
the point marked by a large pyramidal monument 
on the right, he was halted by a British patrol. 
Two companions escaped, but Revere, after leap- 
ing the wall and attempting to reach the woods, 
was overtaken, captured and carried back to 
Lexington, where he was soon released. 

17. t Concord, At the entrance to Concord, as a 
prominent road comes in from the right, is Mer- 
riam's Corner. At this point began the running 
fight in which the Provincials took the initiative 
and which only ended at Lexington Common, on 
the arrival of Lord Percy with reinforcements. 

Here we leave Revolutionary matters for a 
space, and pass a line of more modern places of 
interest. The first of these, on the right, is the 
birthplace of the Concord grape, marked by an 
appropriately embellished tablet. Next to this 
is "The Wayside/' the home of Nathaniel Haw- 
thorne during his second residence in Concord. 
The square tower of this house was his study, 



TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 235 

which was entered by a trap-door. Upon this, 
it is said, Hawthorne placed his chair when writ- 
ing, and thus effectively secured seclusion. 

Next beyond is the ''Orchard House," where 
the Alcott family lived for many years and where 
Louisa Alcott wrote "Little Women." Just be- 
yond this up the hill is the Hillside Chapel, in which 
were held the sessions of the School of Philosophy. 
A Httle beyond this, on the left, where the road 
from Lincoln comes in, is the house in which Ralph 
Waldo Emerson Hved, and where he died in 1882. 

18.3 Just beyond the church, on the left, at the 
corner of the square, is the Wright Tavern which 
was Major Pitcairn's headquarters on the day of 
the Concord fight. 

The route does not pass the scene of that fight, 
Hawthorne's Manse, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery nor 
the haunts of Thoreau, but turning to the left 
at Wright Tavern, leaves the town by Main street, 
passing the Library, on the left. Following the 
trolley line across Sudbury River, the road turns 
sharply to the left under the railroad (ig-s)- 

20.4 Over at the right is the State Reformatory. 
Passing the station at Concord Junction, on the 
right, the route bears to the left and follows the 
trolley Hne to Maynard. A corner of the township 
of Acton is crossed, and here the route passes 
extensive powder works on both sides of the road. 

24. Upon entering Maynard, the route turns to the 
right across the Assabet River and immediately 
to the left through the town, again crossing the 
Assabet and the railroad. 



236 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

27. Passing through the pleasant and quiet village 
of Stowe, the route next reaches the similar village 
of Bolton, six miles beyond. Keeping straight 
through this village and avoiding all roads leading 
to Clinton, the route bears to the right at the sign 
"Both ways to Lancaster" and at the second fork, 
with signs bears again to the right. This is called 
the Seven Bridge road and runs through a part 
of Lancaster. The road crosses the Nashua River 
and the railroad. 

37.2 Just beyond this, on the right stands the 
Beaman oak, marked with a tablet This is said 
to be the largest oak tree in Massachusetts. The 
circumference at the base is twenty-nine feet, and 
at five feet above the ground is eighteen feet five 
inches. Its height is seventy-five feet and its 
spread is about the same. Emerson's "Trees 
and Shrubs of Massachusetts," published about 
1840, gives the measurement of this tree at the 
height of three feet from the ground, as seventeen 
feet in circumference. Here Gameliel Beaman 
settled in 1659. 

The route bears to the right beyond the oak and 
passing through North Village (Lancaster) crosses 
the North Branch of the Nashua River and con- 
tinues along the broad valley of the river. 

41. The view ahead includes the town of Leominster 
in the valley of the Nashua River. The hills 
beyond form a range which reaches its greatest 
elevation in Mt. Wachusett, which is not far dis- 
tant but is not seen from this portion of the route. 

43. Leominster (Pop. 17,500). Near the center 



TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 237 

of the town, we turn to the right on Central street, 
and at the Soldiers' monument bear to the right on 
Main street. 
44.4 At West Leominster station, the boulder 
monument seen on the right beyond the tracks 
is erected in memory of the gift of the park in which 
it is located, as a common. Continuing with the 
railroad and trolley Hne the road passes South 
Fitchburg station and entering Fitchburg, crosses 
over the railroad at the station and turns to the 
left on Main street. 
47.6 Fitchburg (Pop. 37>8oo). At the left of the 
city is Rollstone Hill, on which are immense stone 
quarries. Passing City Hall on the left the route 
bears to the left at a small park and crossing an 
exceedingly unattractive branch of the Nashua 
River, follows the river valley for about two 
miles. 

A prominent road at the right (50.) leads to tKeene. 
50.9 The route now turns to the right and begins 
in earnest the ascent of the great ridge which 
divides the waters of central Massachusetts. The 
elevation at this turn is 600 feet. Passing beneath 
the railroad near Westminster station (on the 
right) the road continues through the town of 
Westminster while the railroad makes a long sharp 
loop to the north to overcome the constantly rising 
grade. 
54.2 At the left across a reservoir, is one of the few 
views obtained on this route of Mt. Wachusett, 
with its summit house. 



238 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

54.8 Westminster (Elevation 1,000 feet). The road 
passes directly through the town and continues 
across a rolling country to 

58.8 South Gardner. 

Here a prominent road at the left leads through the 
pleasant village of tTempleton, which is situated at the 
top of the ridge with an elevation of about 1,200 feet, 
and is the site of the Templeton Inn. This, however, is 
not an improved road. The better route follows the 
example of the railroad in making a slight detour which 
eliminates all but the ordinary grades of a rolling country. 

t Gardner (Pop. 14,700; elevation 1,100 feet). 
This is a great chair manufacturing town and a 
sample of its chief product is displayed, in mammoth 
size, at the railroad station. 

59. Upon entering the town, the route crosses two 
railroads at grade and a third by an overhead 
bridge. Here it turns sharply to the left and upon 
passing the railroad station, turns again to the 
left across the tracks. Upon crossing a spur track 
it turns to the right among some of the chair 
factories. 

60.4 At an open square it turns to the left and at 
the fork just beyond, bears to the right. These 
rather complicated directions take us through 
Gardner, beyond which the route traverses the 
crest of the highlands through an agreeable but not 
especially interesting country. 

65.4 At Baldwinville (elevation 1,100 feet), after 
passing under two railroads the route turns sharply 
to the left at the center of the village, and upon 
crossing Otter River, bears to the right. 



TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 239 

74. Athol (Pop. 8,500). There is no uncertainty 
in this town about the direction of the grade. The 
elevation falls 200 feet within the limits of the 
town proper. 
74.9 At the foot of this descent we reach the valley 
of Miller's River, the course of which is followed 
for fifteen miles. Passing through the town of 
79.8 Orange, which is the seat of several well-known 
manufactories, the road continues along the 
pleasant river valley through the villages of 
West Orange (Wendell station), Erving, and Farley. 
The scenery along this section of the road is ex- 
tremely picturesque, the mountains rising sharply 
from the river to what appear to be very con- 
siderable heights, although as a matter of fact, 
the highest of these elevations is scarcely greater 
than that of the road over which we have 
passed. The elevation of the river itself is about 
500 feet. Beyond Farley, the road rises above the 
the river but soon makes a rapid descent to 
90.8 Miller's Falls (Elevation 300 feet). The route 
here turns to the left across the railroad and imme- 
diately left again, over the river. 
9 1 . 1 Keeping now around to the right, it soon enters 

the State road to 
95. Turner's Falls. Here the Connecticut River 
makes several sharp turns through the hills and 
descends about forty feet, furnishing an abundant 
water power, which is used by the large manu- 
factories of paper, etc., which have been estabhshed 
here. The first dam and canal, intended merely 



To Manchester, Vt. 




Tdcawasick < 
Pond 



East^ 
, Nassau 



'-/Riders W''^^ West Lebanoo-, 



Layn^ille 



^Id qha^tham 



ill^ ^N.w^Lebano."Jf^^t 



240 




Yill^e o}^'est 






THE U 
7*0 Lenox, see pat 




KSHIRES 



241 



242 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

to aid in the navigation of the river, were built 
in 1792. At this place in 1676, Captain Turner, 
with a force of Colonial soldiers attacked a power- 
ful band of King Philip's Indians, and after destroy- 
ing 250 of them with the loss of but one man, was 
himself defeated by a rally of the savages, and was 
killed with many of his men. 

Upon reaching the brow of the hill overlooking 
the town, a suspension bridge across the Connect- 
icut is seen at the right. The route descends 
straight through the town and at the end of the 
street, turns to the left. 

95.6 At the foot of the grade the route turns to the 
right and crosses the canal, railroad and suspension 
bridge over the Connecticut River. 

The road now climbs a long grade and affords 
a wide and beautiful view across the valley of the 
Connecticut. Upon turning away from the river, 
the road skirts the base of Rocky Mountain, on the 
left, at the lower end of which is a square observa- 
tion tower — the Poet's Seat. 

On the right is the hospital. At the end of the 
street, the route turns to the right around a Colonial 
house of brick in the Southern style, and enters 

98.4 t Greenfield. The Weldon is on High street. 

At the center of this pleasant town, the road at the right 
leads up the Connecticut Valley to Brattleboro or Keene, 
and thence to the White Mountains. (See page 40.) 

The road at the left, at the small park, runs to Deerfield, 
Northampton and Springfield. (See page 225.) 

The road to the Mohawk Trail runs straight ahead on 
Main street. (See page 244.) 



XII 

The Mohawk Trail 

Greenfield to Springfield via Williamstown, 125 Miles 

The reverse description is in Chapter XIV 

For complete layout of routes through the Berkshires 

see maps on pages 240-1 and 272-3, 

The year 19 14 was marked in New England auto- 
mobiling circles by the opening of a new route for 
the Mohawk Trail over Hoosac Mountain. 

Although the new road is well nigh beyond com- 
parison with the old, and its practicabiHty is proven 
by the fact that hundreds of cars have passed over 
it in a single day, the trip should not be undertaken 
with the idea that it is a level highway Uke those of 
the Connecticut valley in Massachusetts or the 
"sandpapered" roads of the eastern part of the State. 

It is, however, one of the most attractive tours 
which can be made in New England territory, com- 
bining as it does the beauties of the Berkshire Hills 
with many interesting historical points in the towns. 

The elevation attained in passing over the Hoosac 
Range is not materially different from that reached 
at the Profile House, for instance, in the White Moun- 
tains, but instead of being surrounded at this eleva- 
tion by mountains of much greater height, the Hoosac 
road crosses over the top of the ridge and furnishes 
views such as are presented on few, if any, other 
main routes in this part of the country. 

243 



244 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Greenfield to Springfield, 125 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 275—284 

o. t Greenfield; Soldiers' monument. Proceeding 
west on Main street, the route descends, crosses 
Green River and then rises in a long climb up the 
slope of Greenfield Mountain. This climb is fully 
as steep as that over Hoosac Mountain, though 
not as long. 

3.4 At the top of the grade, the elevation is 800 
feet; a rise of 600 feet from the river. 

5.0 Descending through the village of Shielburne, 
the route soon approaches the Deerfield River and, 
skirting the base of Bald Mountain (1,800 feet), 
passes the hydro-electric plant and enters 

8.8 Shelburne Falls. At the entrance to the town 
the route turns to the left, and upon crossing the 
river turns to the right. A mile and a half beyond, 
the river is again crossed. 

10.3 The route now follows the famous trail of the 
Mohawk Indians along the north bank of the 
Deerfield River for about ten miles. The views 
are most attractive, as the road passes through the 
constantly narrowing valley. 

1 1.8 The site of Fort Taylor is on the right. The 
presence of this and other forts in the vicinity, 
speaks clearly of the perils and difficulties which 
beset the pioneers who followed the pleasant 
reaches of the river valley. 

12.9 East Charlemont. 

17.2 At Charlemont it is a good plan to be sure of a 
proper supply of water in preparation for the climb 



THE MOHAWK TRAIL 245 

of the mountain. The principal elevation on the 
left is Peak Mountain, with a height of 1,640 feet. 

17.6 On the right is the site of the great Rice Fort, 
which was 25 rods (412 feet) square. 

19. On the left is the site of Hawkes Fort. 

19.7 The route now crosses the river by a concrete 
bridge and begins the ascent of the Hoosac Range, 
following closely the course of Cold River. The 
elevation at the bridge is about 600 feet. The 
mountains rise abruptly on every hand, until it 
seems as though the road could find no way through. 
The steepest part of the cHmb is about five miles 
from the base, but the maximum grade is but little 
over 7 per cent. (See map, page 241.) 

26. Passing a cross road, the route emerges into the 
open and presents marvellous views across a sea 
of mountain tops and into the valley from which 
the ascent has been made. Looking down from a 
point over the mouth of the tunnel one may see 
the old road coming directly up the side of the 
mountain and compassing in about two miles the 
ascent for which the present route takes seven. 
The course of the river and the railroad to Wilming- 
• ton, Vt., may be traced for some distance beyond 
the mouth of the tunnel. 

The summit of the mountain is occupied by the 
scattered village of Florida. The highest point 
of the ascent is now reached (29.), the elevation 
being about 2,000 feet. Ahead, at the left, the 
tip of Mt. Greylock appears above the intervening 
summits. 




Grace Hall, Williams College, Williamstown, Mass. 



THE MOHAWK TRAIL 247 

31.6 Reaching the western slope of the mountain, 
the prospect suddenly opens upon a wonderful 
panorama. A thousand feet below lie North 
Adams and the valleys of the Hoosic River and its 
branches. Ahead are the hills of New York and 
Vermont. Far around to the left is Mt. Greylock, 
the highest peak in Massachusetts (3,500 feet), 
but this is seen to better advantage at a later 
point. The line of the old road, which zigzagged 
directly up the mountain-side, may be seen at 
several points. Upon reaching the single sharp 
turn of the road, the Vermont line is only about 
two miles distant. 

35.3 Entering the streets of North Adams, the route 
passes to the center of the city. 

36.2 fNorth Adams (Pop. 22,000) is the seat of ex- 
tensive manufactories of cotton, etc., and the home 
of one of the State Normal schools. Continuing 
directly through the city, the route follows the 
Hoosic River and enters 

41.0 t Williamstown. This is the home of Williams 
College, the buildings of which line both sides 
of the village street. On the right is the college 
chapel. 

The Greylock Hotel is beyond the college buildings on 
Main street, as the route to Manchester turns north (sec 
page 343). 

To visit the Haystack monument, marking the "birth- 
place of foreign missions in America," turn to the right on 
Park street and at the brow of the hill, enter a small park 
on the right. The monument is on the left, in a circle of trees. 

41.0 Leaving Williamstown toward the south, with 
Prospect Mountain and Mt. Greylock on the left. 



248 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the route passes through fSouth Williamstown (46). 
A wild gorge formed by the junction of Prospect 
Mountain, Greylock and Stony Ledge, is called 
"The Hopper." 

Following closely the east branch of Green River 
through open valleys and narrow defiles, the road 
passes the village of New Ashford (50.), and about 
a mile beyond crosses a narrow watershed. The 
little stream now by the roadside (5i.)> flowing 
south, is one of the highest sources of the Housatonic 
River. 

56.4 Lanesborough was the home of two men who 
attained fame through widely different paths — 
Jonathan Smith, who by his speech in the conven- 
tion was largely instrumental in securing the 
acceptance of the Federal Constitution by the State 
of Massachusetts, and Henry W. Shaw, better 
known as "Josh Billings." On the right, as we 
approach the village, across a little valley, is 
Constitution Hill, the home of Jonathan Smith, 
and at the center of the village, on the left, is a 
boulder monument to his memory. 

The birthplace of "Josh Billings" is a rather 
large farmhouse seen from the center of the village 
on the southern extension of Constitution Hill. 
The burial place of the humorist is in about the 
center of the cemetery on the left, a little below 
the center of the town, and is marked by a great 
boulder of marble. 

It is not until we enter the older burial places 
of this vicinity and find the slate markers replaced 
by massive slabs of marble, that we fully realize 



THE MOHAWK TRAIL 249 

that we are in a limestone country. Cheshire, 
which joins Lanesborough on the east, has extensive 
quarries. 
9.6 Skirting the shore of Pontoosuc Lake, the 
route now enters Pittsfield, passing the hospital 
on the left at the junction of the road from Dalton, 
and a httle further on The Maplewood, set some- 
what back from the street in attractive grounds. 
t Pittsfield (Pop. 32,000), is the commercial heart 
of the Berkshires. The greater part of the town- 
ship, about six miles square, was owned by 
Jacob Wendell, the great-grandfather of Oliver 
Wendell Holmes who resided for many summers 
at Holmesdale, some two miles out of town, on 
what is known as the middle road to Lenox. 

The Wendell Hotel at the center of the city 
preserves this historic name. 

At the junction of North, South, East and West streets, 
is a small park on the left, in the center of which is a sun 
dial marking the location of an elm locally famous for its 
age and size. It is said to have been 340 years old at 
the time of its removal. 

The soldiers' monument, "The Color Bearer," was cast 
from the metal of five cannon given by Congress for the 
purpose. 

On the south side of the park stand the Atheneum with 
a library and collections, and the Court House. 

A short distance down East street, on the right, "some- 
what back from the village street," stands the house made 
famous as the scene of Longfellow's poem, "The Old Clock 
on the Stairs." Here lived Miss Appleton, who became 
the wife of the poet. 

On South street, just below the park, on the left, is a 
boulder monument marking the site of the old Easton 




Longfellow House— "Old Clock on the Stairs" 



THE MOHAWK TRAIL 251 

Tavern, in which was planned the Revolutionary capture of 
Ticonderoga. 

Immediately beyond, is the Museum of Natural History 
and Art. 
62.1 Leaving the small park, the route runs south, 
passing on the left the grounds of the Country 
Club. Six miles from Pittsfield is 
68. 1 t Lenox, famed for the beauty of its scenery, the 
magnificence of its estates, and as having been the 
home for greater or less periods of time of Nathaniel 
Hawthorne, Fanny Kemble, Charlotte Cushman, 
Catherine Sedgwick, Henry Ward Beecher and 
many other people of note. 

At the entrance to the town The Aspinwall 
is seen perched upon the summit of a hill at the 
right, and at the highest point of the road is the 
old village church. 
68.7 Descending to the center of the town we stop 
at the cross-roads. The elevation here is about 
1,300 feet. On the right is the old Court House, 
now called Sedgwick Hall, and used as a Library. 
At the four-corners is a monument to Major- 
General John Pater son of Revolutionary fame. 
On the southeastern corner is the Town Hall. 
To visit the site of the "Little Red House" where 
Hawthorne wrote ' ' The House of the Seven Gables," turn to 
the right on West street and to the left when approaching 
vStockbridge Bowl. The site of the house is about two 
miles from town and overlooks the Bowl from the north. 

Turning to the left at the Paterson monument, 
the route follows the "Valley" road to Stockbridge, 
bearing to the right at the Episcopal church. 

The road straight ahead at this point is the direct route 
to Springfield, which we shall rejoin at East Lee, page 253. 



252 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

68.8 Opposite the Episcopal Church on the Stock- 
bridge road, the second house, set back from the 
road, is the place where Charles Sedgwick kept 
a school, and here lived his sister Catherine, "the 
first American woman to achieve international 
fame as a writer." A little further down, on the 
left, stood "The Perch," the home of Fanny Kemble. 

71.9 On the right is Rattlesnake Mountain and a 
view of Stockbridge Bowl. 

74.4 Entering f Stockbridge we pass through the 
main street of the village. The brick building on 
the left, with tablets, is a school. 

On the right, before a large white residence is a 
sun dial marking the site of the study of Jonathan 
Edwards, where he wrote the "Freedom of the Will." 
Here, in a ministry to the Indians, Edwards spent 
the closing years of his life, though his death 
occurred at Princeton, N. J. 

On the left is the Field Memorial Tower with its 
chimes, marking the spot where stood the little 
church in the wilderness, in which John Sargent, 
and after him Jonathan Edwards, preached to the 
Indians. 

75.2 Opposite the church, in the forks of the road, 
stands the Jonathan Edwards monument and a 
little beyond, where the village street slopes to 
the meadows of the Housatonic stands a monolith 
to the Stockbridge Indians, "the friends of the 
Colonists." 

The road leading toward the south at the Red Lion Inn, 
is the route to Great Barrington and New York. 



THE MOHAWK TRAIL 253 

75 '> At this point we turn and retrace our route 
^ through the village, following the course of the 

Housatonic River through South Lee. 
79 2 At the railroad crossing, the view at the right 
is up the valley of Hop Brook toward Tyringham, 
where was formerly a Shaker settlement. At the 
left some of the marble quarries of Lee are seen. 
803 Crossing the Housatonic the route enters 
East Lee, where it joins the direct route from 
Lenox Here begins the ascent which termmates 
at the top of Jacob's Ladder. On this side of the 
mountains this ascent is neither very long nor 
steep. The total rise from East Lee is about 700 
feet, and the elevation at the top of the "Ladder" 
about 1,700 feet. 
90.2 The summit is marked by a monument on the 
left From this point there is an almost contmual 
descent, abrupt or gradual, to Springfield, where 
the elevation is but 100 feet. 

Leaving Jacob's Ladder, the route follows the 
course of Walker's Brook to the West branch of 
the Westfield River at 
96.4 Chester. At this point the line of the Boston 

& Albany railroad is also joined. 
103.5 At Huntington the volume of the river is 
increased by the larger East branch. 

Leaving the river the road encircles Turtle 
Bend Mountain and passes through the village of 
Russell (107.5). On the right is Mt. Nero and on 
the left the cliffs of Mt. Tekoa (1,200 feet), the last 



254 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

of the long succession of mountains through which 
the route has made its way. 

115. Westfield (Pop. 16,000) is the seat of a State 
Normal school. Entering the city by Frankhn 
street, the route turns to the right at the center 
of the city on Elm, and then to the left on Main 
street. It crosses Little River and the Westfield, 
passes beneath the railroad twice and over it once, 
and soon enters 

122.9 West Springfield. Just before reaching the 
Connecticut River, is the common on the. right on 
which is a boulder monument marking the place 
of the encampment in 1777 of a body of Hessian 
soldiers on their way to Boston after Burgoyne's 
surrender at Saratoga. 

Nearly opposite the common is the house of 
Major Benjamin Day built in 1754, and now oc- 
cupied by the Ramapogue Historical Society. 
Crossing the Connecticut, the route enters 

123.5 t Springfield (Pop. 8 9, 000). The gilt-topped 
tower seen at the right from the bridge is that of 
the municipal buildings. On the left, as the 
route enters Main street is a memorial church and 
a monument to soldiers of the Spanish War. 

124.5 Passing beneath the railroad arch the route 
reaches 

125. Main and State streets, from which point the 
route to Boston begins. (See page 50). 

The Kimball Hotel is reached by a left turn on Bridge 
street to Chestnut. 

The route to Hartford continues south on Main street. 
(See. page 265.) 




XIII 
The Great Post Road 

(1) Boston to Springfield, 94.5 Miles 
(2) Springfield to New Haven, 63.5 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapters I and III 

This, the first section of the main highway between 
Boston and New York, follows in a general way not 
3nly the route of the early stage lines between the 
two cities, but of the Indian trail which led through 
the forests from the Massachusetts coast to the 
Connecticut River. 

Under the name of the "Bay Path," this trail was 
also followed by the pioneers in their jouneys through 
the otherwise unbroken wilderness which separated 
the settlements on the shores of Massachusetts Bay 
From those of the ' ' Great River. ' ' 

Over this road came Washington to assume com- 
mand of the Continental armies at Cambridge, and 
again in 1789, when as President, he made a tour 
through the P^astern States. 

The early stages on this route left Boston at five 
D'clock in the morning and reached Worcester in, 
the evening. The next day they proceeded to Palmer 
and on the third day reached Hartford. 

255 



256 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Boston to Springfield, 94.5 Miles 

Reverse of route shown on pages 51-61 

o. Leaving Boston on Commonwealth avenue, the 
route runs through Brookline on Beacon street, 
rejoins Commonwealth avenue at the reservoir and 
passes through Newton Centre and Auburndale. 

10.4 Norumbega Park is on the right. Just be- 
yond, the route crosses Charles River and soon 
turns to the right to 

13.9 Weston. Here we enter the "Great Post 
Road," over which the stages for Hartford and 
New York were operated. 

On the right is the stone church of the First 
Parish, the bell in the tower of which was cast by 
Paul Revere in 1801. 

1 5.1 At the left leaves the Old Connecticut Path, 
an early trail through the wilderness to the Con- 
necticut settlements. 

17.3 Wayland. The village church, on the left, 
was built in 18 14. 

18.3 Crossing the meadows of the Sudbury River, 
the route passes through South Sudbury. 

22.9 On the right is a tablet marking the site of an 
old stone garrison house. At this point the broad 
gable end of the Red Horse Tavern, made famous 
by Longfellow's "Tales of a Wayside Inn," comes 
into view. 

23.4 The great oaks at the entrance to the Inn are 
probably from 300 to 400 years old. 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 257 

27.5 Marlboro (Pop. 15,000). Upon entering the 
town the route turns sharply to the left and follows 
the trolley through the center of the city. Here 
are large manufactories of men's shoes. Passing 
through the main street, the City Hall and railroad 
station are on the left and on the right is the High 
School. Immediately beyond is G. A. R. Hall, 
on the front of which is John Brown*s bell, which 
hung in the engine house at Harper's Ferry, where 
Brown made his fight and was captured. This 
bell he expected to ring as a signal for the rising 
of the slaves. 

The route now bears to the left at the Soldiers' 
monument, passes the Public Library on the right, 
and descending a hill skirts the shores of Lake 
Williams, at the head of which is the old Gates 
Tavern, established in 1665. 

In front of this tavern the route turns to the 
right and enters 

33.9 Northboro. 

37.1 On the left, in a reverse fork of the roads, is 
the house once kept as a tavern by Levi Pease, 
"the Father of the Turnpike," who established a 
stage line between Boston and Hartford in 1783, 
held the first contract made by the United States 
Government for the carrying of mails, and re- 
ceived the first charter granted in Massachusetts 
for a turnpike. 

The approach to Shrewsbury is by a long ascent, 
the elevation at the center of the town being 650 feet. 

37.4 At the beginning of the hill, on the left, opposite 
a park, is the home of Gen. Artemus Ward, who 



258 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

had command of the troops at Cambridge before 
the arrival of General Washington. Opposite 
the house is an old mile-stone. 

A little beyond, on the left, is a tablet marking 
the place where "Luther Goddard, a noted clock- 
maker, established the first factory for the making 
of American watches, about 1790." Across the 
road, is a factory where leather has been made 
continuously since 1803. 

38.4 Near the center of the village, on the right, is a 
Memorial Library, a small boulder to 12.8 minute- 
men who answered the Lexington alarm, and the 
common, with a brick schoolhouse used since 1830, 
at its upper end. In the church here, John B. 
Gough delivered his first temperance lecture. 

39.4 On the right is the estate of C. H. Hutchins, 
president of the Crompton-Knowles Loom Works 
with an excellent view including the spires of 
Worcester, straight ahead; the State Asylum for 
the Insane; the village of Holden; and, at the 
extreme right, Wachusett Mountain, with a house 
on its summit. 

At the foot of the hill, Pease's turnpike and the 
Boston & Worcester trolley line come in from the 
left. 

41.4 Passing the White City amusement resort on 
the left, the road crosses Lake Quinsigamond and, 
ascending the hill with the asylum on the right, 
enters 

t Worcester (Pop. 146,000). The square granite 
tower, with a clock, on the left, is the tower 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 259 

of the old Union Station. The new station has 
two white towers. 
44. Bearing to the right at the station, the route 
passes City Hall Park, on the left, with the Soldiers' 
monument "Victory," and a monument over the 
remains of Col. Timothy Bigelow and other Revolu- 
tionary soldiers. At the side of City Hall, as the 
route turns to the left, is a statue of Senator George 

F. Hoar. 

The Bancroft Hotel is over at the left after passing City 
Hall. 

Keeping to the right on Main street, some of the 
buildings passed are: the Post Ofhce, on the left, 
of marble, with a square tower; the ornate 
Baptist church on the left, with the Masonic Hall 
behind it on the side street; I. O. 0. F. Hall on the 
right. 

On the right glimpses may be had of the castle- 
like buildings formerly occupied by Oread Semi- 
nary, an important school for girls. 

45.3 On the right is Clark University, opposite which 
is University Park, and just beyond the park, on 
higher ground, one of Worcester's High schools. 

45.9 At Webster square the route bears to the right 
and passes through Cherry Valley, the scene of a 
disaster in 1876 caused by the bursting of a dam. 

50.7 The route now ascends the steep grade of 
Leicester hill. At the brow of the hill, the first 
house on the right, marked as being the site of the 
first dwelling erected in the town, was the home of 
Samuel May, a noted anti-slavery worker. 

51.2 On the right at the common is Leicester 



260 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Academy, established in 1784. Here also is a 
boulder monument to the minute-men who marched 
from this point in 1775. A mile west of the meet- 
ing house on the left lived Lewis Allen, a tory, who 
at his request, was buried in his garden near the 
road "so that he might hear the stage go by with the 
news from Boston." 

Between Leicester and Spencer the road reaches 
an elevation of 1,050 feet, the highest point touched 
between Boston and New York. Here also is a 
prominent watershed, some of the streams running 
into Narragansett Bay, some into the Thames 
River and some into the Connecticut. 

55.4 Spencer. In front of the Town Hall, on the 
right, is a monument to Elias Howe, inventor of the 
sewing machine, and his brothers, also inventors. 

56. On the right is a monument marking the site of 
an early settlement of Spencer by Samuel Bemis, 
and another in honor of Capt. Edmond Bemis, who 
was in the French and Indian wars, at Louisburg 
and Crown Point. 

58.7 At East Brookfield, Lake Lashaway is on the 
right. 

61.5 At Brookfield, just beyond the Inn and on the 
opposite side of the road, is Brookfield farm house, 
with a remarkably fine Colonial doorway and 
windows. 

The stream at the left is the Quaboag River, 
which the road follows for some eighteen miles. 

At the foot of Brookfield Hill, the route bears to 
the left to avoid Foster's Hill, the site of the first 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 261 

settlement of Brookfield. On this hill are several 
tablets marking scenes in King Philip's war and 
the rock where Whitfield preached in 1741. 

At the entrance of West Brookfield just before 
reaching the common (No. 42 South Main street), 
stands the former home of Prof. Austin Phelps, the 
father of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward. 

Nearly opposite, on the common is an old mile- 
stone, "Boston 63 miles." At the north end of the 
common is the site of Fort Gilbert, built about 1688, 
to protect the second settlement of Brookfield from 
the Indians. 

64.3 West Brookfield Tavern, on the left, was built 
in 1760 and entertained Washington (1789), 
Lafayette (1825), John Adams and other notables. 
On the outskirts of the village. Lake Wickaboag 
is passed on the right. Bearing to the left, the 
route now follows the Quaboag River through 
Warren and West Warren to Palmer. 

68. Between Warren and West Warren on the left is 
Marks Mountain (1,100 ft.) Beyond West Warren 
the country becomes rough and picturesque as the 
road, with easy grades, follows the Quaboag through 
its narrow valley toward Palmer. 

73.5 The station of West Brimfield is seen at the left 
with Cook's Mountain (1,000 ft.) beyond. Here the 
Southern New England RR (Grand Trunk Hues) 
crosses the valley and skirts the hills toward Brim- 
field. As the valley opens, Chicopee Mountain is 
seen ahead with the buildings of the State Epileptic 
Hospital in Monson on its slopes. 



262 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

79.3 Palmer is the junction of the Boston & Albany 
and New London Northern (Grand Trunk) rail- 
roads. 

Upon entering the town the route turns to the 
left at the end of the road and then to the right. 
On the right upon leaving the town, is the conical 
peak of Mt. Dumpling. 

81.2 A little beyond the bridge over the river, is a 
large elm on the left (marked by a tablet) , beneath 
which it is said Washington stopped on his way to 
take command of the army at Cambridge, and 
addressed the citizens of Palmer. 

84. Approaching North Wilbraham, the road skirts 
a pond-like stretch of the Chicopee River. 

84.2 Nine Mile Pond, named from its distance from 
Springfield, is on the left. 

Ludlow, the seat of an extensive manufacturing 
plant is seen at the right, and while crossing Spring- 
field plains, Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range are 
seen at the right and the Wilbraham Mountains 
at the left. 

89.6 Five Mile Pond is on the right. 

90.5 Springfield may be entered from this point 
either by Bay Road, at the right, or by keeping 
straight ahead. 

On the direct route, the city Poor Farm is passed 
on the right. Passing on the left a large motor- 
cycle factory, the route soon reaches Benton Park, 
on the right, at the approach to the United States 
Arsenal. 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 263 

In the park is a monument marking the place 
where were enacted the final scenes of Shay's 
Rebellion in 1787. At the lower end of the park 
is the Wait Guide-stone, or Boston stone, erected 
in 1763 by Joseph Wait of Brookfield, who lost 
his way at this point in a blinding snowstorm and 
erected the stone as a guide to future travelers. 

Proceeding down State street, beyond the Arsenal, 
on the right is the Cathedral and the Library and 
Art Museum. On the left is the High School and 
the Church of the Unity. Below the Library is 
the statue of Deacon Chapin, an early settler at 
Springfield, by Saint-Gaudens, typifying "the 
Puritan." 

94.5 t Springfield, Main street (Pop. 89,000). 

The Kimball Hotel is at the corner of Bridge and 
Chestnut Streets. 

To reach the fine group of municipal buildings, 
turn to the right on Main street. The buildings are 
then on the left. 

Here, too, is a statue of Miles Morgan, an an- 
cestor of J. Pierpont Morgan. Miles Morgan was 
the third settler at Springfield. In 1643 he went to 
Boston, was married and brought his bride back 
through the wilderness, all of the party but the 
lady walking the entire distance. 

The route to Hartford turns to the left on Main street. 
(See page 265.) 

The route to The Berkshires turns to the right. (See 
page 275.) 




s 

ctf 
h-1 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 265 

(2) Springfield to New Haven, 63.5 Miles 

Reverse of route shown on pages 27-34. 

o. t Springfield, Main and State streets. Running 
southeast on Main street, the route bears to the 
right into Pecowsic avenue. 

1.7 On the hill at the left is the Barney residence 
and mausoleum, situated on the borders of Forest 
Park. Just beyond is a monument to President 
McKinley. 

The road from this point to East Hartford runs 
chiefly along the crest of a ridge, sloping on the 
right to the Connecticut River, and affording many 
pleasant views in both directions. A series of most 
attractive villages merge one into the other with 
scarcely a break. 

The first of these towns is Longmeadow. 
3.6 Here on the right, beyond a slight ravine, with 
an old mile-stone in front of it, is the Ely mansion, 
where lived Eleazer Williams, supposed to have 
been the lost Dauphin Louis XVII of France, the 
son of Marie Antoinette. The mile-post reads, 
"... from Boston, 22 from Hartford." 

3.8 In the church on the left hangs a bell which 
has a unique history. It was cast by Paul Revere 
in 18 10, cracked in celebrating the end of the war 
of 181 2, and recast by Revere. Richard Salter 
Storrs was for many years the pastor of this church. 

5.6 At State Line Grove, on the left, the route enters 
Connecticut. On the right is the well-named 
Conchusett farm. 



266 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

9. At Enfield, Conn., the Shaker village lies in the 
valley at the left, and the extensive powder mills 
at Hazardville are also on this side, about two 
miles from the road. Here the prospect at the 
right and left has a particularly wide sweep. 

1 1.6 Approaching Warehouse Point the road turns 
abruptly to the river bank near the railroad bridge 
over the Connecticut. For miles the road is lined 
by extensive tobacco farms. 

18.6 At East Windsor Hill, on the right, are the old 
brick buildings originally occupied by the Theolog- . 
ical School now located in Hartford. Upon the 
main building is the inscription **Oraculum, 
University of Benevolence." 

18.8 A little beyond, on the right, is a prominent 
white house with a Colonial doorway. This is an 
ancestral home of the Grant family from which 
descended Ulysses S. Grant. Not far beyond, 
near the cemetery stood the birthplace of Jonathan 
Edwards. A stone to the memory of his father, 
Rev. Timothy Edwards, is in the cemetery. 

21.7 South Windsor was a depot for prisoners in the 
Revolution, and many of its large trees were planted 
by British and Hessian captives under the direc- 
tion of Lafayette. 

22.7 On the right is an old mile-post. 

23.6 The dome of the Connecticut Capitol is seen 
on the right. 

24.9 At East Hartford the route turns to the right 
at the church and crosses the Connecticut River 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 267 

on the wide and substantial bridge erected by a 
corporation of some of the adjoining towns. 

The view of Hartford from this bridge includes: a 
little at the right, the square brownstone Keney Memorial 
Tower; at the left, the dome of the Capitol, the smaller 
gilded dome of the Old State House and City Hall, and 
the spire, with a gilt ball, of the First Church. 

Downstream is the plant of the Colts Arms Manufactur- 
ing Company. 
26.5 tHartford (Pop. 99.000)' formerly a port of 
^ considerable importance and a center of the West 
Indian trade, is now the home of many great 
insurance companies. 

Entering the city the route curves to the left 
at the end of the bridge and reaches the Post Office 
and Old State House, where sat the Hartford Con- 
vention in 1815, in which New England voiced its 
protest against the war of 181 2. 

Turning left into Main street, on the left is the 
Wadsworth Atheneum and Public Library, and the 
adjoining Morgan Art Memorial, before which is a 
statue of Nathan Hale, the patriot. The Atheneum 
is erected on the site of the home of Col. Jeremiah 
Wadsworth, a trusted friend of Washington. Here 
Washington met the French commander Count 
de Rochambeau in 1 781, and discussed with him 
the plans for the Yorktown campaign. Next is 
the City Hall. 

Just beyond, when crossing the bridge over Park 
River, the Capitol, which is attractively located m 
Bushnell Park, is seen at the right. The main 
entrance to this park is beneath the great Soldiers' 
Memorial Arch. 



268 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

27. Opposite the next church, a branch trolley line 
leaves to the left. A short distance down this 
street is the stone, which may be seen from Main 
street, marking the site of the famous Charter 
Oak. 

27.1 Bearing to the right at a fork of the roads (the 
left leading to Middletown) the route passes the 
hospital, on the right, and keeping straight ahead, 
runs over a rolling turnpike to Berlin. On the 
right, when approaching the town, the city of New 
Britain is seen, some four miles away. 

37.5. Berlin. In this town tinware was manufactured 
before the Revolution, and for many years this was 
the point from which the tin peddlers obtained 
their stock and took their departure for all parts 
of the Eastern States, carrying their wares at first 
on horseback and then in wagons which were often 
of brilliant hues. 

On the left is Mt. Lamentation, which has an 
elevation of about 1,000 feet. The name of this 
mountain is said to have been derived from the 
cries or lamentations of a party which in the early 
days was searching in the forest for a man from 
Middletown who was supposed to be lost and 
wandering in this vicinity. The road now enters 

42.7 Meriden (Pop. 27,000), sometimes called Silver 
City on account of the great amount of silver- 
plated ware which is manufactured here. Passing, 
on the right, the buildings of the 

43.7 State Reform School, the route reaches the 
center of the city. 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 269 

43.9 Here it turns to the right on Main street and 
then to the left on Cook avenue. 

46.5 Passing through the village of Tracy (Yales- 
ville station), the route turns sharply to the left 
under the railroad. The road straight ahead is 
that traveled by the old stage line to New Haven. 

The route now runs through a stretch of country 
in which the road maintains an almost level grade 
for nearly fifteen miles. 

On the right are the Hanging Hills of Meriden, 
with an elevation of 1,000 feet. 

50.0 Wallingford (Pop. 8,700). The route does 
not pass through the business center of the town 
which is located on the ridge at the left. 

Some distance below Wallingford there were 
standing a few years ago a number of large Colonial 
houses of rather striking appearance, bearing 
evidence to the character of the road as one of the 
main highways a century and a half ago. These 
have disappeared with the exception of one old 
brick structure which bears the date 1759. 

The road now passes directly through 

55.2 North Haven. On the left is an old burial 
place which has been made a part of the village 
green. 

On the right rises East Rock, on which is one 
of the parks of New Haven. At the summit is a 
monument to the soldiers of three wars. 

Passing through the village of Montowese the 
road crosses the Quinnipiac meadows. 



270 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

60.5 Passing under the railroad and crossing the 
Qtiinnipiac River the road ascends a sHght grade, 
goes over the railroad and turns to the left on 
State street. This street may be followed to the 
center of the city, but it is better to turn to the 
right at one of the through signs and then to the 
left on Temple street. 

fNew Haven (Pop. 133,600). This is the largest 
city in the State and formerly divided with Hart- 
ford the honor of being the capital. Here are 
located large manufacturing plants in great variety 
and the headquarters of the New York, New 
Haven & Hartford Railroad Company. 

In the center of the city are the many fine build- 
ings pertaining to Yale University. 

Entering the city on Temple street the route 
passes several chapter houses of the college frater- 
nities. 

On the lower right-hand corner of Grove street 
lived Noah Webster, the lexicographer. At the 
corner of Temple and Elm streets on the left 
is the Free Public Library, below which is the 
Court House. On Elm street at the right are two 
Colonial houses, the first now the residence of 
Anson Phelps Stokes, and the second the home of 
the Graduates' Club. 

Stopping for a moment here at the entrance of 
the historic Green, which Temple street bisects, 
we see immediately at the right the three churches. 
United, Center and Trinity. 

Beyond the green at the right is Yale College. 
Directly ahead, across the green is the business 



THE GREAT POST ROAD 271 

center of the city. On the left is City Hall and the 
new Post Office. Facing the Green is Hotel Taft. 

The Green is the historic center of the city. 
Here Washington reviewed the patriotic band of 
Yale students as he passed on his way to the com- 
mand of the army at Cambridge. Here Benedict 
Arnold, who was a New Haven druggist and book- 
seller, drew up his little company and demanded the 
keys of the powder-house when news came of the 
battle of Lexington. Here stood the old State House. 

Center Church, which was erected in 1814, is 
built over a part of the old burying ground. Be- 
neath the church is a crypt in which stand 140 
tombstones of the period before 1780. On the rear 
outside walls of the church are tablets to Theophilus 
Eaton, the first Governor of New Haven Colony, and 
to Stephen Goodyear, the first Deputy Governor. 
Behind the church is also the original grave-stone 
and a more modern monument to John Dixwell, 
who was one of the regicide judges of Charles I. 
63.5 Having traversed the green, the route reaches 
Chapel street at the center of the city. 

The route to New London turns to the left on Chapel 
street. (See page 63.) 

The route to New York turns to the right (page 329). 




Lake Onota, near Pittsfield, Mass. 



To Albany 



To Willi 



.Rayville^ / 
y»/01d Chatham 

H^aSJ-^p^ .Four Corner 

hatham \ 

jCanaan 

Concord Canaari 
Center 



Redrock 



^^Spencertown 




StOCkbridgeM WStockbridge/ ) {//U^ 

I w / r/i(\ *Mtn. r ^ 



Green Riveri 



AusterHtz/HarveyMl 
It 

I^Williamsville' 



llterlakenl 



t:!^ l' /TomBallMtn. 



Stockbridge 



/ 

Alford^ 



DHousatonil 

Monument J 
Mtn.i 



/ 



^ iNorth 
Egremont- 

/ 



.Great 
5arrington/""l 





vMill River/ 



To Poughkeepsie 



To Waterbury '^^^ ^^ 



ges 240-241 




^^^ JMontville 
Sandisfield\| West New Boston 



SHIRES 



273 




The Greylock at Williamstown. 

XIV 

The Berkshires Again 

Springfield to Pittsfield and Greenfield 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter XII 

This route will seem to many tourists the natural 
way of reaching the Berkshire Hills from points on 
the eastern coast of New England, because it is the 
route which has been most frequently used in the 
past and is the best known. 

If the objective point be Pittsfield or Albany, this 
is still the better road, but if it is contemplated to 
make the round trip through the Berkshires and over 
Hoosac Mountain, the reverse of this route, going 
by way of Greenfield and returning by way of Spring- 
field is the better. (See Chapter XII.) The reason 
for this lies in the fact that by the latter route the 
climb over both Jacob's Ladder and Hoosac Moun- 
tain are taken on the easier side. 

This route is, however, sufficiently attractive 
to make a delightful trip and is deservedly popular. 

274 



THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 275 

Springfield to Greenfield, 125 Miles 

Reverse of route shown on pages 244-254. 

For complete layout of routes through the Berkshires 

see Maps, pages 240-1 and 272-3. 

o. Leaving Springfield at Main and State streets, 
the route runs west on Main street beneath the 
railroad arch. At the junction of Main and Plain- 
field streets, as the route bears to the left, are a 
monument to the soldiers of the Spanish War, and 
a Memorial Church. 

1.7 Bearing still to the left we cross the Connecticut 
River into 

2.1 West Springfield. On the common at the left 
is a boulder marking the spot where a body of 
Hessians camped in 1777 on their way to Boston 
after the surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga. 
Nearly opposite the common is the home of the 
Historical Society, originally the house of Major 
Benjamin Day, and built in 1754. 

7.5 After winding about the railway line in several 
loops which require caution on the part of the 
driver, the route crosses the Westfield and Little 
Rivers and enters 

9. Westfield (Pop. 16,000). This is the junction 
of the Boston & Albany railroad and the old canal 
road from New Haven and is the seat of a State 
Normal school. At the center of the city the 
route turns to the right on Elm street and then to 
the left with a trolley Hne on Franklin street. 

Following the valley of the Westfield River, the 
road now begins the ascent which only terminates 
at the top of Jacob's Ladder, twenty miles beyond. 



THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 277 

For several miles, however, the grade is hardly 
perceptible. 

15. As the road nears the paper mills at Woronoco, 
the valley narrows, with the cliffs of Mt. Tekoa 
at the right and Mt. Nero on the left. The eleva- 
tion of the road at this point is about 200 feet. 

17.5 At Russell the route bears to the left, leaving 
the river to make the circuit of Turtle Bend 
Mountain. 

21.5 Huntington. Here the elevation is 400 feet, 
and the road crosses the river. At this point the 
stream divides and the route follows the smaller 
west branch. (See road map, pages 272-3.) 

Again crossing the river the road ascends to 

28.4 Chester (elevation 600 feet), where the main 

branch of the river and the railroad are left. 

The route now follows Walker's Brook, with 

continuous grades and curves until the top of 
34.8 Jacobus Ladder is reached at an elevation of 

about 1,700 feet. The summit is marked by a 

monument on the right. 
39.3 On the descent the road passes Greenwater 

Pond, on the left. 

43.6 East Lee. From this point the most direct 
route to Pittsfield is straight ahead through Lee, to 
Lenox. In order to visit Stockbridge, however, 
our route now leaves this main road, 

44.7 turning to the left across the Housatonic 
River and following the stream through South Lee, 
the route reaches 



278 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

49. t Stockbridge (Elevation 900 feet). This region 
is made the scene of Edward Bellamy's novel, 
"The Duke of Stockbridge, " the time of the story 
being that of Shay's rebellion. 

At the entrance to the village on the left is a 
large schoolhouse. A little beyond is a fountain, 
nearly opposite which, in front of a large white 

• residence, is a sun dial which marks the site of the 
study of Jonathan Edwards, where he wrote the 
"Freedom of the Will." Edwards was minister 
to the Indians of Stockbridge during the last 
years of his life, although he died and is buried at 
Princeton, N. J. 

49.3 At the four-corners in the center of the village, 
the road at the left at the side of the Red Lion Inn, 
is the route to Great Barrington and New York. 
On the left is the Field Memorial Tower with 
chimes, marking the site of the little church where 
John Sargent and Jonathan Edwards preached 
to the Indians. 

49.8 Opposite the church, in the forks of the road, 
stands the Jonathan Edwards Monument and a 
little beyond, where the village street slopes to 
the Housatonic, stands a monolith to the Stock- 
bridge Indians, "the friends of the Colonists." 
The monument stands on the ancient burial place 
of the tribe. 

Turning about at this point the route retraces 
its way through the village and bearing to the left 
nearly opposite the schoolhouse, follows the "val- 
ley" road to Lenox. 



THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 279 

53. On the left is a view of Rattlesnake Hill and 
Stockbridge Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac). On the 
northern side of the Bowl stood the "Little Red 
House," the home of Nathaniel Hawthorne where 
he wrote "The House of the Seven Gables." This, 
too, was the scene of his "Tangle wood Tales." 

55. On an elevation at the right stood "The Perch," 
the home of Fanny Kemble. 

56.1 Just before reaching the Episcopal church, 
the second house from the corner on the left was 
the home of Charles Sedgwick, with whom lived 
his sister Catherine, "the first American woman 
to achieve international fame as a writer." Re- 
joining the direct road from Lee, the route reaches 
the center of 

56.3 t Lenox (Elevation 1,300 feet). Here, on the 
left is the Town Hall; at the four-corners is a 
monument to Major- General John Paterson of 
Revolutionary fame, and on the right after turning 
the corner is the Old Court House now known as 
Sedgwick Hall, and used for the Hbrary, etc. 

56.8 At the top of the hill which terminates the 
village street, is the old meeting house on the left 
and above that is perched The Aspinwall, command- 
ing a wide and beautiful view. 

60.9 On the right is the Pittsfield Country Club. 
62.9 t Pittsfield (Pop. 32,000; elevation 1,000 feet.) 

This is the commercial center of the Berkshire 
region. Entering the city by South street the 
route passes, on the right, the Museum of Natural 
History and Art. 



280 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Just beyond this is a boulder monument mark- 
the site of the Easton Tavern, in which the Revolu- 
tionary capture of Fort Ticonderoga was planned. 

At the junction of North, South, East and West 
streets is a small park on the right, in the center 
of which is a sun dial marking the location of an 
elm beneath which many of the important events 
of the town were enacted. The tree was removed 
in 1864, and is said to have been 340 years old. 
Here also is the Soldiers' Monument "The Color 
Bearer" cast from the metal of five cannon given 
by Congress for the purpose. 

At the left is the Wendell Hotel. 

At the right of the park on East street is the 
Atheneum with a library and collections, and the 
Court House. Farther down East street at the 
corner of Bartlett avenue is the house famous as 
the scene of Longfellow's poem, "The Old Clock 
on the Stairs." This was the home of Miss Apple- 
ton, who became the wife of the poet. 

The greater part of this township was originally 
owned by Jacob Wendell, the great-grandfather 
of Oliver Wendell Holmes, who resided many 
summers at the family seat, Holmesdale, which 
is situated some two miles out of town on what 
is known as the middle road to Lenox. 

62.9 Proceeding up North street, the main business 
street of the city, the route passes the Maplewood 
Hotel at the right and passes to the left of the 
the hospital. 

66.7 Leaving Pittsfield, the route passes Pontoosuc 



THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 281 

Lake, on the left, with Mt. Greylock straight 
ahead, and soon after enters 

68.4 Lanesborough. In about the center of the 
burial ground at the right enclosed by a railing, 
is a massive block of marble, rough hewn, marking 
the grave of Henry W. Shaw, better known as 
"Josh Billings." Entrance into the old cemeteries 
of this section emphasizes the fact that we are in 
the marble country, for there are none of the slate 
or sandstone markers seen so generally through 
New England, but in place of them slabs of marble 
sometimes three inches in thickness. Looking 
to the left, across the valley, a large prosperous 
looking white farmhouse on the side of the hill, 
is the birthplace of Josh Billings. 

68.6 In the center of the village, as the trolley 
line leaves to the right, is a boulder monument 
to Jonathan Smith, who by his speech in the 
Convention was largely instrumental in securing 
the acceptance of the Federal Constitution by 
the State of Massachusetts. The home of Jona- 
than Smith was located on the main part of 
"Constitution" Hill, at the left of the village 
and a little above the center. 

70.3 A little beyond the second cemetery (on the 
left) the route turns to the left and then to the 
right. 

The route now ascends a little stream, which 
is one of the main headwaters of the Housatonic 
River, to its source among the hills of New 
Ashford, and passing over the height of land at 
an elevation of 1,500 feet, follows one of the feeders 



282 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

of the Green River which flows into the Hoosic 
at Williamstown and thence into the Hudson. 
Upon coming out into the open valley, the 
Grey lock Range is close at hand on the right. 
Greylock, with an elevation of 3,500 feet, is the 
highest mountain in Massachusetts. 

79.3 At t South Williamstown a wild gorge directly 
east of the village formed by the junction of Grey- 
lock, Prospect Mountain and Stony Ledge, is 
called "The Hopper/' 

84.0 t Williamstown is first of all the home of Williams 
College, the buildings of which line the main street 
of the town. 

To visit the Haystack Monument, marking the birth- 
place of foreign missions in America, turn to the right on 
Park street, which is a little at the left of the point of 
entrance to the town. At the brow of the hill, enter a 
small park on the right. The monument is on the left, 
in a circle of trees. 
The Greylock Hotel is over at the left, two blocks. 
For Manchester and Burlington see page 343. 

84.0 Leaving Williamstown (Main and Water streets) 

toward the east, the route soon reaches 
88.8 fNorth Adams (Pop. 22,000), a manufactur- 
ing city and the home of one of the State Normal 
Schools. The route runs through the center of 
the city. 

Although the road which now passes over Hoosac 
Mountain is a boulevard compared to that which 
was formerly used, an ample supply of water should 
be taken before starting the climb. 

At North Adams the elevation is about 700 feet. 
Upon leaving the city on the "Mohawk Trail" 



THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 283 

the road comes face to face with the mountain and 
is soon ascending its precipitous side in a long 
loop to the north. The old road which zigzagged 
directly up the mountain, is seen at several points. 
At the point farthest north, the Vermont Hne is 
only two miles distant. 

Upon turning the loop, which is the only sharp 
curve encountered on the mountain, the broad 
view looks over the valley of the Hoosic and its 
tributaries. Across the valley toward the south 
rises Mt. Greylock. 
96. The highest point of the ascent is now reached, 
the elevation being about 2,000 feet. The summit 
of the mountain is occupied by the scattered 
village of Florida. From this point for about 
three miles there is a series of broad views to the 
eastward over a multitude of mountain tops and 
into the valley of the Deerfield River, which the 
route follows after its descent from the heights. 
99. When above the mouth of the tunnel, the 
old road is seen coming directly up the side of 
the mountain. Beyond the mouth of the tunnel 
at the left, the course of the river and the railroad 
to Wilmington, Vt., may be traced for some 
distance. The descent from this point is about 
seven miles, much of the distance being along the 
course of Cold River. 
105.3 Emerging from the mountains, the road 
enters the valley of the Deerfield River at an 
elevation of about 600 feet. 
106. On the right is the site of Hawkes Fort, one 
of several forts in this vicinity which protected 



284 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

the settlers when the Mohawk Trail was something 
more than a name. 

107.4 On the left is the site of the great Rice Fort, 
which was about 400 feet square. 

107.8 At Charlemont, Mt. Peak, 1,640 feet, is on 
the right. Following the river closely the road 
passes through East Charlemont (11 2.1). 

1 13.2 On the left is the site of Fort Taylor. Cross- 
ing the river the route enters 

116. Shelburne Falls and again crosses the river 
at the center of the town. 

120. From this point there is a long, but not difficult 
grade through the village of Shelburne and over 
Shelburne Mountain. 

12 1.6 The elevation at the summit is 800 feet, from 
which point the road descends rapidly to the level 
of Green River. Crossing this stream at an eleva- 
tion of 200 feet the route enters 

125. t Greenfield (Pop. 10,500). The Weldon Hotel. 
The route to Boston runs straight ahead on Main street. 
(See page 286.) 

The route to Springfield turns to the right at the square. 
(See page 225.) 

The route to Keene and the White Mountains turns 
to the left beyond the square. (See page 40.) 




Lake Sunapee from the Granliden 



A Distant View of the Berkshire Hills 

XV 

In Northern Massachusetts 
Greenfield to Boston, 98 Miles 

Reverse of route described in Chapter XI 
This route will naturally be used by many who 
wish to reach Boston from the Mohawk Trail. 

It is not so good a road across the State as that by 
way of Springfield, because the grades are more fre- 
quent and the roads beyond Fitchburg are not the 
equal of those east of Worcester on the Post Road. 
It is, however, a pleasant route with a great deal 
of excellent State road, and as it enters Boston by 
way of Concord and Lexington, it has the distinct 
advantage of affording an opportunity to visit these 
interesting places. 

285 



286 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Greenfield to Boston, 98 Miles 

Reverse of the route described on pages 230-242 

o. t Greenfield. Small park on Main street. Run- 
ning east on Main street, with the Post Office on 
the right and the library on the left, the route turns 
to the left on High street, around a fine Colonial 
house of brick, in the Southern style. On the left 
is the hospital. 

The square tower on the elevation at the right 
is at Poet's Seat on Rocky Mountain. The route 
skirts the base of this rugged hill and upon bearing 
sharply to the right, comes suddenly upon a broad 
view over the valley of the Connecticut River 
and to Mt. Tobey beyond. 

As the route descends the grade along the course 
of the river, the town of Turner's Falls is at the 
right. The high tension wires which run down 
the valley, carry the electricity generated at the 
Turner's Falls power plant which is located just 
beyond the spillway of the canal. 

2.6 Upon reaching the bottom of the grade, the road 
crosses the river on a suspension bridge and imme- 
diately beyond the canal, turns to the left up- 
grade. At the top of the grade, the route turns 
to the right and runs straight through the town. 

2.8 Turner's Falls was the scene, in 1676, of an im- 
portant battle with the Indians under King Philip, 
in which Captain Turner and many of his men 
who attacked the savages, were killed. During 
the battle about 150 of the Indians went over the 
falls in their canoes, and were drowned. 



IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 287 

The Connecticut at this point, constricted by the 
hills which rise closely about its course, winds with 
many sharp curves around the location of the town 
and descending with a fall of thirty-six feet, 
furnishes abundant water-power for manufacturing 
purposes. Beyond the long brick row on the left, 
another suspension bridge is seen. 

7.3 Upon reaching Miller's Falls, the route turns 
to the left, down-grade, and at the center of the 
town turns again to the left. 

7.6 Crossing Miller's River and the railroad, the 
route turns to the right and ascends to a considerable 
height above the river. Here the scenery is wild 
and picturesque. The river is swift and the hills 
rise sharply on either side to the height of about 

1,200 feet. 

Upon descending through the hamlet of Farley 
the route reaches the level of the river, the course 
of which it follows closely to Athol. Passing 
through Erving and West Orange, the road reaches 

18.6 Orange, which is the seat of several manu- 
factories of well known articles. 

23.5 Athol (Pop. 8,500; elevation 600 feet). After 
passing through the portion of this town which 
hes along the river bottom, the route bears to the 
right, crosses beneath the railroad and immediately 
begins a long steep cHmb through Athol Centre 
(24.5). This ascent continues without much in- 
terruption until the elevation of 1,100 feet has 
been reached, some three miles beyond the begin- 
ning of the rise. Upon entering 



288 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

33. Baldwinville, the route turns to the left across 
the Otter River, and immediately to the right at 
the center of the village (33.2). 

The route straight ahead leads to Templeton and the 
Templeton Inn. 

Passing beneath two railroads, the Fitchburg 
Division of the Boston & Maine, and a branch 
of the Boston & Albany, the road ascends a grade 
through the little village of Otter River and con- 
tinues over a rolling country to 

t Gardner (Pop. 14,700; elevation 1,100 feet). 
Here are large manufactories of chairs, a mammoth 
specimen of which is displayed at the railroad station. 

38. Upon entering the town, the route turns to the 
right at an open square, and to the left at the foot 
of the grade. Bearing to the right it passes the 
railroad station, on the right, and just beyond, 
turns to the right across a bridge over the railroad. 

39.6 At South Gardner the route bears to the left, 
and runs across a rolling country with descending 
grades. At South Gardner church the top of 
Mt. Wachusett is seen ahead on the right. The 
occasional swamps along the road, are the head- 
waters of the Ware River which reaches the Con- 
necticut near Springfield. 

43.6 Westminster. Near the center of this village 
the route turns sharply to the left down-grade. As 
it runs along the shores of a reservoir, Mt. Wachu- 
sett, with a house upon its summit, appears directly 
across the pond. 

Constantly descending and passing beneath the 
railroad near Westminster station (on the left) 



IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 289 

the road reaches the valley of the Nashua River 
and enters 
49. Fitchburg (Pop. 37,800). At the right are the 
great quarries on RoUstone Hill. 

50.6 The route follows the course of the river, which 
is here useful but exceedingly unattractive, to the 
center of the city, passing City Hall on the right. 
From this point there are several good routes to Boston. 
One may turn to the left through the hilltown of 
Lunenburg and the delightful old town of Groton, and 
thence reach Boston by way of Concord and Lexington. 
Or, starting in the same manner, he may reach Concord 
from Lunenburg by way of Ayer and Harvard. 

50.8 Our route follows neither of these roads, but at 
the railroad station turns to the right over the 
tracks and then to the left with the line of the rail- 
road through South Fitchburg to 

55. Leominster (Pop. 17,600). Here, among the 
varied interests, are large manufactories of combs. 

55.4 Upon reaching the center of the town, the route 
turns to the left on Lancaster street and follows the 
trolley line. 

Crossing the valley of the Nashua River on a sort 
of causeway with frequent bridges, the route passes 
through 

61.4 North Village (Lancaster). Here a prominent 
road at the right leads to CUnton. The route 
ascends a sHght grade and reaches, on the left, the 

61.6 Beaman Oak. This venerable tree is said to be 
the largest oak in Massachusetts, although there are 



290 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

famous trees of this species at the Wayside Inn, 
Sudbury and at Waverly, near Boston. The tree 
now measures twenty-nine feet in circumference at 
the base, and eighteen feet five inches at the height 
of five feet from the ground. Its height is seventy- 
five feet and its spread is about the same. In 1840, 
the circumference at the height of three feet from 
the ground is given in ''Emerson's Trees and 
Shrubs of Massachusetts," as seventeen feet. 
GameHel Beaman settled at this place in 1659, and 
it is quite conceivable that the tree shaded his 
dooryard. 

Beyond the oak, the route crosses the railroad and 
the river and passes through the little town of 
Bolton (65.5). Six miles beyond is the quiet town 
of Stow (71.4) from which point the route follows 
the trolley line to 
73.6 Maynard. Here the Assabet River, one of the 
main branches of the Concord, is crossed. 

From this point there are two routes to Boston. That 
by way of Waltham, which is the more direct, and that 
by way of Concord and Lexington, which is the more 
interesting. 

74.4 At the center of the town the route turns to the 
right across the Assabet River. 

74.5 Here, as the trolley line bears to the left, the 
road straight ahead leads to Waltham. Our route 
follows the car line along the Assabet River to 
Concord, passing, in a corner of the town of Acton, 
an extensive powder works which lines the road on 
both sides with small isolated buildings. 

77.4 At the village of Westdale the route turns to the 



292 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

right and crosses the railroad at Concord Junction 
station. Here is the final crossing of the Assabet. 
Over at the left is the State Reformatory. Passing 
under the railroad, the route crosses the Sudbury 
River, which here joins the Assabet to make the 
Concord, and enters 

80.1 t Concord. From the square in the center of the 
town, the scene of the Concord fight, Hawthorne's 
Old Manse (close by the battlefield) and Sleepy 
Hollow Cemetery are easily reached, but are not on 
the direct route. 

On the right at the square, is the Wright Tavern, 
which was opened about 1747. This was the 
rendezvous of the Concord minute-men on the 
morning before the fight and the headquarters of 
the British a few hours later. Here Major Pit- 
cairn, who commanded the British marines, is said 
to have observed as he stirred his brandy and sugar 
with his finger: "In this way we will stir the blood 
of the Yankees before night." 

Continuing along Lexington road, at a prominent 
fork, on the right, is the house in which Ralph 
Waldo Emerson lived, and where he died in 1882. 

A little beyond this, on the left, stands the 
"Orchard House," which was the home of the Alcott 
family for twenty years, and in which Louisa M. 
Alcott wrote "Little Women." 

Back from the road near the house is the little 
Hillside Chapel in which the sessions of the School 
of Philosophy were held. 

Just beyond this is "The Wayside," the home of 
, Nathaniel Hawthorne during his second residence 



IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 293 

in Concord. The square tower of this house was his 
study. This was entered by a trap-door upon 
which, it is said, Hawthorne was accustomed to 
place his chair when writing in order to effectively 
secure seclusion. 

Next to this is the home of the Concord grape, 
which was originated here in 1843 by Ephraim W. 
Bull. The original vine still grows near the house, 
and a tablet appropriately modelled, stands as a 
tardy memorial to the value of the work of the 
discoverer. 

We may now return to matters Revolutionary 
and follow the general course of the British as they 
retreated toward Lexington. 

;i.4 At Merriam's Corner as the route turns to the 
right, began the running fight which only termi- 
nated upon the relief of the British at Lexington by 
reinforcements under Lord Percy. 

As the route proceeds toward Lexington, it 
passes, on the left, a large pyramidal monument 
which marks the place where Paul Revere's famous 
ride ended. Here, at about two o'clock on the 
morning of the 19th of April, i775. with two 
companions who had joined him on his way from 
Chariestown, Revere was halted by a British patrol. 
After leaping the wall with his horse and attempting 
to reach the wood, Revere was captured and taken 
back to Lexington, where he was soon released. 

At a natural redoubt on the left, a tablet 
marks the position of a stand which was made on 
the retreat. 



294 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

85.5 The route now turns to the left and reaches 
86.7 Lexington. Here upon the common, the first 
stand was made by the minute-men and here they 
were first fired upon by the regulars. 

The ivy-clad monument is probably the first 
memorial of the Revolution erected in the country. 
Besides this there are on the common a boulder 
monument marking the line of the minute-men; 
Pulpit Rock, which marks the site of the first three 
meeting-houses in the town; an elm behind this 
rock, which was planted by Gen. Grant at the 
centennial celebration of the battle ; and the Minute- 
man, the statue of Capt. John Parker, who com- 
manded the men from Lexington. This statue 
which surmounts the Hayes Memorial Fountain, 
stands at the end of the common, facing the line 
of the British advance from Boston. 

Opposite the Minute-man on the left, is the 
Buckman Tavern, which was the headquarters of 
the Continental soldiers on the day of the battle. 

Samuel Adams and John Hancock, who were aroused 
by Revere, were sleeping in a house which is somewhat off 
the main route on Hancock street, which leads from the 
common near the boulder monument. In this house 
also visiting was Dorothy Quincy, who soon after became 
Hancock's wife. 

86.9 Leaving the Minute-man, the route proceeds 
down Massachusetts avenue, passing, On the left, 
at the High School, a stone cannon which stands 
where Lord Percy planted one of his field pieces to 
protect the retreat from Concord. A little below 
this, on the right, is the Munroe Tavern, which was 
the headquarters of Lord Percy 



296 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

The route now continues through East Lexington 
and Arlington Heights to Arlington, passing at fre- 
quent intervals and particularly in Arlington, 
tablets marking the location of various houses and 
the scene of various events on the day of the battle. 

91.6 At the center of Arlington the Public Library 
is on the right and, a little beyond, the old Cooper 
Tavern is on the left. 

If it is desired to avoid Boston and continue along the 
shore road to Salem and Portsmouth, a turn to the left 
may be made at the Cooper Tavern. 

This route is described on page 60. 

94.2 Continuing straight on Massachusetts avenue 
toward Boston, the route bears to the right above 
the railroad at Porter square. 

Cambridge. Continuing on Massachusetts 
avenue, we reach the common, on the right. Here 
is a statue of John Bridge, an early settler. 

Looking across the common, in line with the 
church, we see the ancient elm beneath which 
Washington took command of the Continental 
army. The common was the training place of 
this army of the Revolution as it had previously 
been of the earliest settlers. 

A tablet within the common, near the street, 
marks the spot where, in 1630, stood an ancient 
oak under which were held Colonial elections. 
The tree under which this tablet stands, is a scion 
of the Washington elm. 

The flagpole at the left is erected in memory 
of the suffering and fortitude of the men and women 
of Cambridge during the Revolution. Over be- 



IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 



297 



yond the flagpole are two tablets, one of which 
marks the birthplace of Oliver Wendell Holmes. 

At the apex of the subway entrance, on the left, 
is a statue of Charles Sumner. 
95.3 On the left are the grounds of Harvard Univer- 
sity along which the route follows, curving to the 
left at Harvard square. 
97.0 Continuing still with Massachusetts avenue, 
the route passes through Central square, Cambridge, 
crosses Harvard Bridge over the Charles River, 
and enters fBoston. 

A left turn on Commonwealth avenue and a 
right on Dartmouth street, brings one to Copley 
square, 98 miles. 

Continued to New London on page 310- 

For Plymouth and Fall River see page 299. 

For Springfield see page 256. 




Home of the Presidents of Harvard College for 120 years 



XVI 

Through the Old Colony and Beyond 

(1) Boston to Fall River via Plymouth, 110 Miles 
(2) Boston to New London, 118.5 Miles 

Described in reverse direction in Chapter V 

To one who is accustomed to travel between Boston 
and New York by the Shore Line trains, there 
seems at first thought to be but one natural route 
to follow in making the trip by automobile; namely, 
that which reaches New London by way of Providence. 

This is probably the route which is most frequently 
used, but is the one in regard to which we shall 
have the least to say. It is not because we desire 
to avoid the beaten path that this route is omitted 
from our itinerary, for our work is confessedly an 
exposition of the main lines of travel, but because 
the routes chosen have appealed so much more 
strongly as being recreative rather than commercial. 

Speaking comparatively, the Providence route 
offers a continuous line of nearly eight miles of city 
streets through Pawtucket and Providence, while 
the road which we have chosen as our main line, 
finds its most congested traffic in the smaller city 
of Fall River and adds as an attraction, a visit to 
Newport and a trip by ferry across Narragansett 
Bay, which is altogether charming if not too frequently 
repeated. 

The introductory route by way of Plymouth and 
Cape Cod Canal, speaks for itself. 

298 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 299 



Boston to Plymouth and Fall River, 110 Miles 

Described in reverse on pages 86-99 
Map on pages 48-49 

o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs 
north on Dartmouth street to Commonwealth 
avenue, where it turns to the left. At Charlesgate 
West*, it turns to the left into the Fenway and keep- 
ing around to the right, runs to the end of Boylston 
street. 

1.8 Here the route crosses Brookline avenue diag- 
onally, and enters the River way, which with other 
parts of the Metropolitan Parkway system is fol- 
lowed for about three miles. 

On the corner at the left is Miss Wheelock^s 
School for the training of kindergarten teachers. 
The medallion over the entrance represents Froebel 
instructing a group of children whose faces are 
those of children of graduates of the school. 

2.1 On the left is the Winsor School. 

2.5 On the left ahead, is Parker Hill, with a large 
hospital on its summit. 

3.2 Leverett Pond is at the right and the Little 
Wanderers' Home on the left. 

4. Jamaica Pond is on the right. 

4.9 On the right is the Arnold Arboretum, in which 
is located Bussey Institute, an activity of Harvard 
University. The Arboretum contains extensive 
collections of growing plants and trees. 

5.5 Passing under the steam and elevated railroads 
at Forest Hills, the route enters Morton street 



300 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

and runs between Franklin Park on the left, and 
Forest Hills cemetery on the right. 

6.6 On the right is Pierce farm, and on the left 
Austin farm, both city institutions. Keeping 
straight through on Morton street the route 
reaches 

9. Milton Lower Mills. Here, on both sides of the 
road at the crossing of the Neponset River, are the 
factories of the Baker Chocolate Company. 

Upon ascending the hill beyond, the view at 
the left includes Boston Harbor and a part of the 
North Shore. At the extreme left, the tower of 
Boston Custom House is seen. 

II. East Milton. The railroad which is crossed 
at this point is about on the location of the first 
railroad (horse-drawn) in this country, built in 
1826 to transport stone from the Quincy quarries 
for the construction of Bunker Hill Monument. 

Passing through the village, a stone water tower 
crowns Forbes Hill on the left and some of the 
Quincy granite quarries are seen at the right. 

1 1.9 On the right the stone bearing a tablet is an 
ancient mile-stone set by one James Neal. 

12.7 At the entrance to Quincy, on the left at the 
corner of Newport avenue, and just before cross- 
ing the railroad, is a long old-fashioned house with 
many chimneys. This is the so-called "Golden 
Wedding House,'' in which were celebrated the 
golden weddings of John Adams, John Quincy 
Adams and Charles Francis Adams. 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 



301 



13. As the route bears to the right Adams Academy 

stands on the right at the junction of Hancock 
street. This is the site of the birthplace of John 
Hancock. 

To visit the mansion of the Quincy family (A mile), 
turn about on Hancock street, and follow the trolley line. 
The mansion is .on the right next the High School. Here 
was born " Dorthy Q.," the wife of John Hancock. 

13.2 Continuing down Hancock street to the center 
of Quincy, the "Stone Temple'^ stands in the fork 
of the roads. This is the Unitarian church, in 
which are buried the two Presidents, John Adams, 
and John Quincy Adams. The structure derives 
its name from the fact that it is built of material 
taken from a quarry given to the town by John 
Adams with the request that the stone be used for 

a "Temple." 

One-half mile down Hancock street 
is Christ Church on the left, at the corner 
of Elm street. 

Before this church is a curious 
fountain embellished with figures and 
texts in the manner of a wayside shrine. 
To visit the homes of the two pres- 
idents (open to visitors), turn to the 
right opposite this fountain, with the 
trolley. Pass Adams School and turn 
^ ^ to the left on Franklin street. The 

^\|presidents houses are then on the right at the 

\a\5 t)ouse junction of Franklin street, and In- 

dependence avenue. 

13.2 Continuing on the main route, the road passes 
the " Stone Temple" on the right, the library on 
the left and the Post Office on the right. 




302 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

1 5. 1 Weymouth Fore River. From the bridge, 
the Fore River Shipbuilding Works, where many 
battleships have been constructed, are on the right. 

16.3 Bicknell square, North Weymouth, is passed, 
on the right. 

At the left, on a slight elevation by the road is a 
little gambrel roofed house believed to be the 
birthplace of Abigail Smith, the wife of John Adams. 

17.2 Crossing Weymouth Back River, the route 

enters 

19.4 Hingham, another Colonial town. The route 
does not cross the railroad. 

To visit the "01d| Ship," which is the oldest church 
edifice in New England, built in 1681, cross the tracks at 
the station. The church stands just beyond, on an eleva- 
tion at the left, by the cemetery. As the belfry is over 
the center of the church, the bell rope hangs in the middle 
of the auditorium. 

22.1 Keeping straight ahead the route now enters 
the famous ''Jerusalem road" bordered by elegant 
estates, and passing Straits Pond on the left, soon 
overlooks the open sea. Across Massachusetts 
Bay at the left, the line of the North Shore is seen 
stretching down toward Cape Ann, and at the 
extreme left, is the Nantasket Peninsula. 

23.6 Directly ahead, alone in the sea, stands Minot's 
Ledge lighthouse. 

Either turning to the right at a stone watering 
trough or keeping farther along the shore around 
the pond-like "Little Harbor" the route enters 

26. Cohasset, and passes the green with its quaint 
church. 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 303 

.7.4 This neighborhood is beHeved to be the home 
of the ancestors of Abraham Lincoln. On the 
right a httle above the road are two old houses 
still in possession of the Lincoln family. The 
little house standing back from the road was built 
by Mordecai Lincoln, the first of the line in this 
country, for his son Isaac. Thejiouse of Mordecai 
still stands at the left over beyond the mill. 

27.6 Here too, on the banks of the pond-like Bound 
Brook, at the left, stands the stone marking the 
ancient boundary between the colonies of Plymouth 
and Massachusetts Bay. 

28.1 The route now crosses the railroad at North 
Scituate, and passes through the village of Egypt 

(29.), to 

32. Greenbush. This was the birthplace of Samuel 
Woodworth, the author of "The Old Oaken Bucket." 
The road turns sharply to the right about "the 
wide spreading pond," and "the mill that stood 
by it, " built in 1640, is on the left. 

The cottage, with its old well sweep is one-half 
mile off the main route, the third house at the left 
on Pond street. 

33. After crossing North River by Little's bridge, 
either the road straight ahead through Marshfield 
Hills, or that at the left, may be taken. The road 
at the left is the better. 

Marshfield. This was one of the homes of 
Daniel Webster, and is the place of his burial. 
39.2 In the open triangle at the church, where the 
route turns to the right, is a monument to the 
statesman. 



304 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

42.5 Passing through the village of Millbrook, the 
towers of the wireless station at Duxbury are seen 
at the left. 

43.5 A church and burial ground are passed on the 
right, in the woods. The monument in the fork 
of the roads on the left is at a private burial place. 
The road to the left at this point leads to South Duxbury, 
where the homes of John Alden and Myles Standish are 
located. 

44. The Myles Standish Monument, surmounted 
by a figure of the captain, is seen at the left on 
Captains* Hill, South Duxbury, and on approach- 
ing Kingston, glimpses are obtained of Kingston 
Bay and Plymouth Harbor. 

46.8 At the entrance to Kingston, on the left, behind 
the present houses, was the home of William Brad- 
ford, the second Governor of the Colony. 

To visit the site, turn to the left just before reaching 
the railroad, and again to the left on Bradford lane. The 
site of the house is marked. 

47.2 Kingston. The railroad is crossed at the 
station and the route bears to the left through the 
town. 
49.5 The works of the Plymouth Cordage Company 
are on the left. 

t Plymouth. Among the points of interest in 
• this ancient town the following may be readily 
visited in passing through : 

National Monument to the forefathers. 

This is seen on the right upon entering the town and is 
reached by turning to the right on Cushman street, and 
thence to the right on Allerton street. From the hill on 
which the monument is located there is a fine view. 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 305 

Pilgrim Hall. This is on the left at the corner of 
Court (main) and Chilton streets. The hall contains a 
valuable collection of relics pertaining to the early days 
of the colon}^ and the men and women who founded it. 
Many of the articles are intimately connected with the 
lives of those who came in the Mayflower. 

Three blocks beyond Pilgrim Hall, we may turn to the 
left on North street, at the foot of which is Plymouth Rock. 

The great linden trees on the right as we drive down 
the street are more than lOO years old. 

Opposite the rock, is Cole's Hill, the site of the 
first burial place of the Pilgrims. This is the hill which 
was sown with grain after the first winter so that the 
Indians might not be able to count the graves and thus 
understand how weak the colony had become. 

From the Rock, we may run eastward along the shore 
and take the first turn to the right on Leyden street. 
Here were built the first houses of the town. 

At the head of the street is Town square, in which are 
located the Town Hall, the Church of the Pilgrimage and 
First Church. 

At the head of the square is the main entrance to the 
ancient burial place of the colony, in which are stones 
running back to 1681. 

52. Running east from Town square, the route 
affords fine views of the harbor and Duxbury Bay. 
The long spit of land making out from the northern 
shore and terminated by the Gurnet lights, is 
Duxbury Beach. The route passes over Manomet 
Hill. When descending the hill (56.4) a glimpse 
of Cape Cod is had across the bay ahead. 

57.7 Passing through the village of Manomet, the 
route skirts Fresh Pond, at the end of the trolley 
line (59.5) While most of this section is covered 
with young growth and scrub oaks, there are 



306 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

occasional cranberry bogs by the road and a few 

views of Cape Cod Bay and the Cape beyond. 
62. Here is the best view obtained of the Bay and 

Cape. Two miles beyond is another view, broad, 

but not as satisfactory as the former on account 

of the lack of elevation. 
64.8 A third view which will probably be only a 

glimpse, is while ascending a hill through the woods. 
66. On the right a glimpse is obtained of Great 

Herring Pond. 

69.1 At Sagamore the route reaches Cape Cod Canal, 

a project which was proposed in early Colonial 
days but was not carried to completion until 19 14. 
This canal, which is about eight miles in length, 
saves some sixty miles of dangerous navigation 
between Boston and New York. At Sagamore 
the canal may be crossed by a drawbridge, and the 
southern bank followed. 

At the time of writing (fall 19 14) a road on the 
northern side of the canal, somewhat shorter than 
the former, is not entirely completed. The route 
however follows this northern road. 

Straight across the bridge leads to Cape Cod points. 

69.1 Turning to the right, with the canal, the car 
shops at Sagamore are on the left. 

73.5 At the left is the Bourne Town Hall with 
a Soldiers' monument before it. 

74.1 Buzzards Bay station is on the left. From 
this point the line of the route is full of sharp turns, 
as it follows a zigzag course along the inlets and 
through the shore resorts of Buzzards Bay. 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 307 

74.5 Turning sharply to the left the route crosses 
the outlet of Buttermilk Bay. Over at the left 
is the estate of General Taylor, chief owner of the 
Boston Globe. 

74.8 At the bridge over the railroad, is a view of 
part of Buzzards Bay. Grey Gables, the former 
home of President Cleveland, may be seen about 
two miles down the Bay, but is not readily dis- 
tinguished from other cottages. 

76.3 Crossing the bridge at the head of Onset Bay, 
the route enters Onset, a summer resort, and 
passes through the center of the village. 

78. The route crosses the railroad at Onset Junction, 
passes East Wareham Post Office just beyond, and 
at the end of the road turns to the right and crosses 
Agawam River, which at this point is a pond on 
the right and a small stream on the left. 

The road now runs along the course of the river 
and crossing it twice, enters 

80.4 Wareham. Having crossed the railroad, the 
route turns to the right through the town. 

81. In the center of the town the route turns sharply 
to the left and runs to 

86.4 t Marion, which is located on Sippican Harbor. 
Here is an important wireless sending station of 
the Marconi Company, which works direct with 
Norway. The messages are sent mechanically, 
at the rate of about 100 words per minute. The 
receiving station is located at Chatham, on Cape 
Cod, twenty miles away. 

The Sippican, a summer hotel, overlooks the bay. 



308 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Entering the town on Front street the route 
turns to the right on Main street, and to the left 
on Mattapoisett road. 
91. Mattapoisett. The route runs through the 
village with views at the left over Mattapoisett 
Harbor. Crossing the railroad, the route follows 
the trolley line to 

96. fFairhaven (Pop. 5,000). This was the birth- 
place and a residence of Henry H. Rogers, of the 
Standard Oil Company, whose connection with 
the town accounts in great measure for the unusual 
character of the public buildings, which should 
be visited. 

At the beginning of the paving the route turns 
to the left on Rotch street and to the right on 
Center street. At the left on Center street is the 
Rogers School, Tabitha Inn, the Unitarian Memo- 
rial Church, a magnificent structure whose property 
occupies an entire square, and the Millicent 
(memorial) Library. Opposite the library is the 
Post Office. 

Turning to the right beyond the street where 
the electric cars turn, we reach the entrance to 
the New Bedford bridge, at which point the High 
School of Fairhaven is on the right. 

97. Crossing the great bridges over the broadened 
mouth of the Acushnet River, the route enters 

New Bedford (Pop. 96,600). This was formerly 
a great whaling center and is still a maritime city 
though its interests are centered in manufactur- 
ing rather than trading. It is now the seat of more 
than forty cotton mills, many of which with other 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 309 

manufactories are in view from the bridges. There 
is a large Portuguese population. 

At the end of the bridges the route bears to the 
right along a small park and enters High street. 
Crossing Purchase, which is the main business 
street of the city, the route turns to the right, one 
block beyond on Pleasant, and then to the left 
on Mill street. From this point the route hes 
straight ahead to Fall River. 
I oo. Passing through the village of North Dartmouth 
over a roUing country, the spires of Fall River are 
soon seen ahead on the right, St. Anne's Church 
standing out with particular prominence. 
103.2 Westport Factory. On the right is Lincoln 
Park, an amusement resort. 

At the left a road leads across country toward New- 
port, but it is poor and rough throughout its twelve-mile 
length, while the road by way of Fall River is excellent 
except within the city limits. 
107.4. Crossing the causeway between North and 

South Watuppa Ponds the road enters 
1 10.4 Fall River (Pop. 119.000). This is the greatest 
cotton milling city in America. The Quequechan 
River which runs from the Watuppa Ponds has 
a fall of 127 feet in one-half mile, and furnishes 
power for the many cotton mills which line its 

banks. 

The route runs on Pleasant street, straight to 
the City Hall where it joins the direct route from 
Boston. 

See page 314 for continuation to Newport and New 
London. 



310 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 



Boston to Newport and New London, 118.5 Miles 

Reverse of route described on pages 70-85 
See map, pages 48-49 

o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs 
north on Dartmouth street to Commonwealth 
avenue, where it turns to the left. At Charlesgate 
West it turns to the left into the Fenway and 
keeping around to the right, runs to the end of 
Boylston street. 

1.8 Here the route crosses Brookline avenue diag- 
onally and enters the Riverway, which, with other 
parts of the Metropolitan Parkway system is 
followed for about three miles. 

On the corner at the left is Miss Wheelock's 
School for the training of kindergarten teachers. 
The medallion over the entrance represents Froebel 
instructing a group of children, whose faces are 
those of children of graduates of the school. 

2.1 On the left is the Winsor School. 

2.5 On the left ahead, is Parker Hill, with a large 
hospital on its summit. 

3.2 Leverett Pond is at the right and the Little 
Wanderers' Home on the left. 

4. Jamaica Pond is on the right. 

4.9 On the right is the Arnold Arboretum in which 
is located Bussey Institute, an activity of Har- 
vard University. The Arboretum contains exten- 
sive collections of growing plants and trees. 

5.5 Passing under the steam and elevated railroads 
at Forest Hills, the route enters Morton street 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 311 

and runs between Franklin Park, on the left, and 
Forest Hills Cemetery on the right. 

6.6 On the right is Pierce farm and on the left 
Austin farm, both city institutions for the care of 
the insane. 

7.5 Turning to the right on Blue Hill avenue the 
route crosses the Neponset River at 

8.7 Mattapan and enters the parkway at the left. 

9.9 At the end of the parkway the route bears to 
the right and ascends the approach to Blue Hills 
through a part of Milton. 

1 2. 1 The entrance to Blue Hill Reservation and 
the path to the summit are on the left. 

The view from the top of Great Blue Hill is excellent 
in every direction and embraces a great variety of scenery, 
including the sea, the forests of the Reservation, the city, 
and many of its suburbs. 

14. A look backward brings an attractive view of 
Great Blue Hill with the weather-forecasting station 
on its summit. Ahead at the right the town of 
Canton is seen in the valley. 

14.6 While descending the grade through Ponkapoag 
village the route bears to the left leaving the main 
road to Canton, and passes over a rolling turnpike 
to Stoughton. This road runs for a long distance 
through an entirely uninhabited section which 
it seems strange to find so near Bostgn. The only 
town upon the route for about fifteen miles is 

19. Stoughton. In the center of the town the 
route bears to the right. 



312 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

21.5 Over at the right are seen the spires of North 
Easton. 

23. After passing through a prominent four-corners, 
the road is bordered on both sides by the grounds 
of one of the Ames estates, of which there are 
several in this vicinity. 

25. Passing through the scattered village of South 
Easton, and the Great Cedar Swamp some three 
miles beyond, the road crosses the railroad at 

3 1 . Raynham station and enters 

35.2 Taunton (Pop. 34,000). Here are large manu- 
factories of stoves and furnaces. 

On the right at the center of the city is the green, 
on which is a monument marking the spot where, 
on October 25, 1786, General David Cobb with 
400 troops defeated a body of insurgents in Shay's 
RebelHon. Here also in 1774 (before the battle 
of Lexington) the citizens of Taunton raised a flag 
bearing the inscription, "Liberty and Union." 
On the left, opposite the green, on the site now 
occupied by the National Bank, stood the house 
of Robert Treat Paine, a signer of the Declaration 
of Independence. 

35.6 Keeping straight through by the green, the 
route enters Weir street, bearing to the right at 
Grace Church into Somerset avenue. (See map, 
pages 80-81.) 

38.5 The cegiter of the village of North Dighton 

is at the right. 
39. Crossing Three Mile River the road passes 

through the village of Segreganset and enters 



THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 313 

41.5 Dighton. This place is famous as the location 
of Dighton Rock, which bears upon its face rude 
hieroglyphics which have been attributed by dif- 
ferent authorities to the Norsemen, the Phoenicians 
and the American Indians. The rock is not entirely 
satisfactory as a point of interest for the inscrip- 
tions are indistinct, the rock is partly covered at 
high tide and in fact is quite inaccessible to the 
tourist, being located on the eastern side of the 
broad Taunton River. 

The location is directly opposite the end of the 
street as the route turns to the right along the river. 
43.2 On the left is Dighton Rock Park. 
44.2 Crossing an arm of Taunton River, the route 
proceeds with many pleasing views through the 
villages of Somerset and Pottersville. 
49 . 2 About a mile after coming in view of the city the 
route crosses Taunton River and enters 

Fall River (Pop. 119,000). This is the largest 
cotton manufacturing center in the United States. 
There are in the city about 800 manufactunng plants 
of various kinds. The Queqtiechan River, two 
miles in length, flows through the center of the city 
with a fall of nearly 130 feet in one-half mile. The 
great mills are crowded along its course. 

The route enters the city on Davol street, on 
which it continues beyond the railroad station. 
At the gasometer it turns to the left under the 
railroad and immediately to the right on Durfee 
street. At the Armory, with the Textile High 
School opposite, it turns to the left and then to 
the right on Main street. 



314 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

51. The City Hall, on the left, is built directly over 
the Quequechan River, which crosses beneath Main 
Street at this point. By the side of City Hall 
is a fountain, the gift of Henry G. Coggswell of 
San Francisco, who in 1833 as a boy, "marched 
to the music of the bell." This was also the scene 
of the battle of Fall River, a minor engagement 
of the war of the Revolution. 

The route from New Bedford comes in on the left at 
City Hall by Pleasant street. 

51.6 Proceeding south on Main street, the route 
reaches South Park, on the right. Opposite this 
is the great St. Anne's Church and college, which 
is a landmark throughout this region. A little 
beyond this point, the route bears to the right, 
still on South Main street. 

53.5 While the route is apparently still within the 
city it in fact leaves the State, slipping over the line 
into Rhode Island at State avenue. 

56. From the ridge below the city where the eleva- 
tion is about 200 feet above the sea, the view at the 
right extends over Mt. Hope Bay to Bristol, R. I. 
The road now descends through the village of 

57.4 Tiverton, crosses the Stone Bridge (now of 
steel), and the causeway, and enters the Island of 
Aquidneck or Rhode Island, at the lower end of 
which is Newport. The island is about fifteen 
miles long. 

62. From the summit of Quaker Hill the prospect 
is most attractive. Below at the left is the Sakonne 
"River" with the "Stone Bridge" at its head, and 
above the bridge is Fall River. 



THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 315 

Continuing through the length of the island the 
route passes many of the older estates with their 
roomy grounds and farms, and runs through 
Middletown. This town is rather unique in 
that it contains no village whatever, being made 
up wholly of large estates. The route now enters 
70. tNewport, and passing the Soldiers' monument, 
on the left, reaches the center of the city. 

The attention of the casual tourist will naturally 
be directed from the points of purely historical 
interest, of which there are many on the island, to 
the features which make of Newport a Mecca. 
Guides are numerous, but place high value upon 
their services. The tour of the * ' cottage' ' settlement 
should be made in any event, and the longer drive 
around the shore should be taken if time permits. 
Among the notable historical points is the old 
State House, which is at the center of the city 
near the Perry Monument on Washington square. 
The Old Stone Mill, the construction of which 
has been variously ascribed to the Norsemen and 
the eariy EngHsh settlers, is reached by turning 
to the left around the Perry Monument and bear- 
ing to the right up grade at the rear of the old 
State House. The old mill stands in a park at 
the right. Longfellow, in "The Skeleton in 
Armor," makes this the bower and memorial of a 
Viking's wife. 

Here also are monuments to Commodore 
Matthew C. Perry, who concluded the treaty which 
opened Japan to commerce and to William Ellery 
Channing, who was born in Newport in 1780. 



316 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Before reaching the "Mill" the Jewish Cemetery 
is passed on the left, and also the Redwood Library, 
which was established in 1750. The opening 
scenes of James Fenimore Cooper's "Red Rover" 
are laid in this vicinity. 

70. The exit from Newport is by way of a double 
ferry across Narragansett Bay. The trip occupies 
an hour and furnishes a pleasant diversion to the 
occasional traveler. To reach the ferry, keep 
straight by the Perry Monument, turn to the left 
on Thames street, and to the right at the ferry slip. 
70.3 Ferry. Directly ahead at the ferry house is the 
U. S. Torpedo Station on Goat Island, with its 
great wireless equipment. At the left, apparently 
on Goat Island, but really on the main island, is 
Fort Adams, which was originally built during the 
administration of John Adams. 

As the boat turns to the right to pass around 
Goat Island the buildings of the War College are 
ahead on the main island. Upon rounding the 
island, a better view is obtained of Fort Adams. 

On the right is Rose Island, on which are located 
magazines for the storage of powder. 

The Island of Conanicut, which contains the 
town of Jamestown, is nine miles in length. Many 
large hotels are seen as the boat approaches the 
shore. From the ferry slip the route makes a 
slight jog to the right and then runs straight across 
the island, which is about a mile in width, to another 
ferry. 

From this second ferry. Fort Greble, on Dutch 
Island, is directly ahead. At this island the boat 



THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 317 

frequently stops and then rounding the head of the 
island affords an excellent view of the fort, Plum 
Beach on the mainland being directly ahead. 

At the left, on the mainland is St. John's Church. 
71. Saunderstown. Ascending the hill from the 
ferry, the route turns to the left, on the main road 
from Providence. The views from the ridge which 
carries the road, are wide and attractive, looking 
out over Narragansett Bay on the left, and em- 
bracing Jamestown (Conanicut) Island. 

72.5 St. John's Church is seen on the left. 

As the road turns to the right, straight ahead is 
McSparren Hill, where lived Rev. Dr. McSparren, 
the rector of the first Episcopal church in New 
England. 

Between the ridge carrying the road and this 
hill lies Narrow or Pettaquamscott River, near 
the head of which was born Gilbert Stuart, the 
chief painter of portraits of General Washington. 

75.6 Tower Hill, overlooking Narragansett Pier, 
is ahead, and Narragansett Pier itself. 

76.1 Crossing the outlet of Narrow River with 
Tower Hill straight ahead, the road soon enters 

77.4 t Narragansett Pier. Almost at the entrance of 
the town the route turns to the right and leaves it. 

To visit the Casino, hotels and beach, keep straight 
ahead, turning at the first left and then right, through an 
archway passing in front of the hotels, the largest of which 
is The Mathewson. 

Upon leaving Narragansett Pier, the route 
makes a detour to the west and north, before re- 
suming its way down the shore. 

79.5 Wakefield. 



318 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

82.5 One-half mile at the right is the birthplace of 
Commodore Perry. This is the old Potter place 
where 100 slaves were kept. Here, too, is an ex- 
cellent view of the ocean across Point Judith Pond, 
and occasional glimpses of Point Judith light. 

83.6 The square tower on the right is a private 
water tower. 

On the left is a memorial fountain to Margaret 

Weeden, "who lived on this farm from 1826 to 

1863 and brought this water here." 
Passing through the village of Perryville. the road 

traverses long stretches of open country with many 

views of the sea. 
87. The view looks across Charlestown Pond. This 

is one of a series of lagoons which line the coast 

of Rhode Island from Point Judith to Watch Hill, 

and is separated from the open ocean only by the 

narrow strip of sand known as Charlestown Beach. 

This is frequently seen in the next few miles, and 

the roar of the surf may often be plainly heard 

from the road. 
89.1 Pass the old General Stanton Inn on the right. 
89.9 A little north of the village of Charlestown, 

is an Indian burial place and fort. 
92.8 The road skirts the lower end of Charlestown 

Pond. 
94.3 On the left is a monument erected by the State 

to General Joseph Stanton, Jr., the first U. S. 

Senator from Rhode Island under the constitution. 
The road now leaves the shore and bears away 

toward Westerly, which, with its granite quarries, 

soon comes into view. 



THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 319 

101.4 Westerly (Pop. 8,700). Passing directly through 
the town with the Court House on the left and the 
High School, Library and Post Office on the right, 
the route crosses the Pawcatuck River and enters 
the State of Connecticut. 

104.5 Wequetequock Village, at the head of the cove 
of the same name, is the site of the first white 
settlement in this section, which was made by 
William Chesebrough in 1649. 

105.4 At the right g impses may be had of jWatch 

Hill, with its numerous hotels and summer houses. 

In the waters a little west of Watch Hill, is 

the intersection of the State lines of Rhode Island, 

Connecticut and New York. 

106.7 The route enters the borders of Stonington 
only to turn away with scarcely more than a glimpse 
of the town. This was a great whaling center in 
the old days, and from here the Stonington Line of 
steamers ran to New York. 

107.3 Crossing an arm of Stonington Harbor the 
road ascends enough of an elevation to furnish 
excellent views over the ocean. 

108.8 At Lord's Point the view seaward is over 
Fisher's Island Sound (through which the Connect- 
icut-New York State line runs), Fishers Island, 
N. Y. and Block Island Sound beyond. 

109.4. On the left is a lighthouse, placed at a rather 
unusual distance from the shore. 

III. The route now enters Mystic and turning to 
the left at the Soldiers' monument passes directly 
through the town. Apparently a unit, this is 
really a divided community, Mystic and West 



320 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Mystic being separated by the river. Furthermore 
there is no town here by the name of Mystic, the 
first village being a part of Stonington and the 
second belonging to Groton. 

Pequot Hill, which lies directly ahead, was the 
scene of the decisive overthrow of the Pequot 
Indians in 1637, which preserved the settlements 
from destruction. On the summit of the hill is a 
statue of Major John Mason, who led the fight. 
The account of the "battle" reads, at this distant 
time, like that of a wholesale murder. The Indians 
were surprised in their sleep, the town was set on 
fire and 600 were burned or shot. Morton, in his 
New England Memorial, says: "It was a fearful 
sight. . . but the victory seemed a sweet sacrifice." 
1 1 1.3 Crossing Mystic River the route turns to the 
left with the car tracks, and at a brick factory a 
little beyond, turns to the right up the long steep 
grade of the southern extension of Pequot Hill. 
From the top of this grade the view at the left 
includes Fisher's Island, the mouth of Mystic 
River and the village of Noank. 

Upon descending this hill the road at once begins 
the ascent of Fort Hill, the long line of which 
stretches across the route ahead. This is the 
site of the fort of Sassacus, the sachem of the 
Pequots who, upon learning of the destruction of 
the town on Pequot Hill, marched to its relief and 
gave Major Mason a real battle. Sassacus was 
defeated and fled beyond the Hudson, a remnant 
of the tribe being pursued as far as Southport, 
Conn. 



THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 321 

1 13.8 At the top of Fort Hill is an old enclosed 
burial place of the Burrows family, from the wall 
of which is obtained the best view in this region. 
On the left lies Stonington and Watch Hill. Straight 
ahead to the south, is the long line of Fisher's 
Island, above which are the cliffs on Montauk Point, 
L. I. On the right is the mouth of the Thames, the 
monument at Groton and the spires of New London. 
The site of the Indian fort is said to be a little to 
the south of this burial place, between it and a 
more modern cemetery which is just below. 

114. Beginning the descent of the hill the road turns 
sharply to the right. 

1 15.2 On the left, as the trolley line comes in, is 
Groton Town Hall, thus situated in the open coun- 
try to meet the convenience of the widely separated 
villages which make up the town. 

1 1 6. 1 After passing through the village of Poquon- 
nock Bridge, the road turns to the left with the 
trolley line, and runs beneath the railroad. 

Here on the right is a monument on "the site 
of the home built in 1656 by Capt. James Avery, 
the founder of the family known as the Groton 
A very s. This Hive of the A very s was owned and 
occupied by its valiant builder until his death. Its 
ownership and occupancy passed in regular order of 
descent from father to son until it was burned on 
the night of July 20, 1894, Hinc illcE lacrimce.*^ 

118. Following the trolley line the route enters 
Groton, bearing to the right along the Thames 
River, with Fort Trumbull on the New London 
shore. The Griswold, at Eastern Point, is reached 
by a left turn down the river. 



322 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

On the heights at the right is the monument 
to the miUtia massacred at Fort Griswold in the 
Revolution. As the road approaches the ferry 
it passes, on a corner at the right, the Avery house, 
where the wounded were cared for during the Fort 
Griswold fight. 

Crossing the ferry, the route reaches 

1 18.5 fNew London (Pop. 19,600). The stretch 
of the river above the railroad bridge is the scene 
of the Yale-Harvard boat races. 

New London was formerly a whaling center and 
the water-front is still a busy place, with steamboat 
lines to New York, Fisher's Island and other points 
along the shore. This is also the terminus of the 
New London & Northern railroad, now a part of 
the Grand Trunk System. 

For the points of interest in New London, see page 68. 

Upon leaving the ferry, the route crosses the 
railroad at the station and enters State, which is the 
main street of the city. At the Soldiers' monument 
just beyond, the route to New Haven leaves at the 
left on Bank street. (See page 324.) 




The Shore and The Griswold at Eastern Point, Conn. 




"West Rock," New Haven, Conn. 

XVII 

Along the Sound 

(1) New London to New Haven, 53 Miles 

(2) New Haven to New York, 73 Miles 

From New London to New Haven, the country is 
rolling, pleasantly wooded and generally attractive, 
affording as it does many views of the Sound and 
passing through a number of delightful villages. 

The route will be especially pleasing to those who 
are interested in old-time places, for there is probably 
no stretch of road of equal length in New England 
where there are standing so many houses of the 
Colonial period. 

In the town of Guilford alone, there are more than 
eighty of these old landmarks which were built before 
the war of the Revolution. Along the route were 
made some of the earliest settlements in Connecticut, 
Saybrook having been founded in 1635, and most of 
the other towns during the succeeding fifty years. 

323 



324 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

New London to New Haven, 53 Miles 

Described in reverse direction on pages 63-68 

o. fNew London. Leaving the "Parade" at the 
Soldiers' Monument, the route runs southwest 
on Bank street, passing the Custom House on the 
left and on the right two Colonial houses which 
attract immediate attention. The first of these 
is the home of the Elks, and the second that 
of the New London County Historical Society. 
This latter was the Perkins mansion, in which 
Washington and Lafayette were entertained. 

Continuing on Bank street the route soon leaves 
the city and crosses the township of Waterford. 

6.8 Making a double crossing of the Niantic River, 
at the head of the tidewater, the route enters 

7.7 Flanders Village or East Lyme. This is about 
halfway between New York and Boston, on the 
railroad, the meeting point of the through expresses 
being on the long curve at the mouth of Niantic 
River. On the right is East Lyme school farm. 

9. The lower end of Pataguanset Lake is passed 
on the right. 

10.7 The road is bordered on both sides by the M. F. 
Plant game preserve. 

16. fOld Lyme, was the birthplace of Chief Justice 
Waite. Here gathers an artist colony which has 
its headquarters in one of the many fine old houses 
which line the village street. 

17. The route does not enter this delightful village, 
but at its entrance turns to the right and crosses a 
long toll bridge over the Connecticut River. The 



ALONG THE SOUND 825 

mouth of the river is some three miles below. 
The site of the primitive ferry which, until a few 
years ago, was the only means of crossing the river 
is seen below the bridge. 

19.7 The route now enters f Old Saybrook and runs 
a short distance down the wide main street. 

20.3 On the left, opposite the corner where the route 
turns to the right with the trolley line, is an old 
red mile-stone, "Hartford 41." 

A short distance down the main street on the right, 
is the first church which was organized in the "Great 
Hall" of the fort in 1646. 

At Saybrook Point, a mile and a half below, and at the 
left, is the site of the first location of Yale College, marked 
by a boulder, and in the Point Cemetery is the unlettered 
and transplanted tomb of Lady Fenwick, who died about 
1648. 
The summer hotel at this point is called Fenwick Hall. 

20.3. Continuing on the main route, the road 
soon approaches the shore, giving the first of many 
views of Long Island Sound with Long Island 
itself just visible on the horizon, about fifteen 
miles away. Between here and Guilford there are 
several excellent beaches just off the route. 

24. Passing through the town of Westbrook the 
road crosses Menanketesuck River (25.2), passes 
near Grove Beach and enters 

28. Clinton. This is a deHghtful Colonial town. 
In front of the Morgan School, on the right, are 
the statues of Charles Morgan, the founder of the 
school, and "the good and learned Abraham 



326 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Pierson, ". first president of Yale College, 1 701-1707, 
and pastor of Killing worth (now Clinton) Church. 

28.2 On the right is a large well-kept Colonial house 
adjoining the green. This is the Stanton house, 
in which is contained the John Stanton collection 
of Connecticut antiquities. 

28.3 Just beyond is a monument, surmounted by a 
group of books, marking the place where the earliest 
senior classes of Yale College were taught by Rector 
Pierson. The college at this time was nominally 
located at Saybrook, but as President Pierson 
refused to go there, the students were obliged to 
come to him. 

28.7 On the right is the railroad station and the 
home of Pond's Extract. 

29.8 The road crosses the Hammonasset River. 

31. On the right is Meig's Lodge, a building of 
strange appearance, the purpose and contents of 
which are variously described by the people of this 
section. It appears to be the country resort of a 
New Haven clothier. 

32.2 Madison. This is another Colonial town, its 
main street shaded by four rows of trees and lined 
with many old houses. At the center of the town, 
opposite the Post Office, is the Erastus Scranton 
Memorial Library. 

32.7 On the right is the green and the Town Hall, 
with tablets containing the Civil War rolls. Cross- 
ing the railroad at East River station, the route 
enters 



ALONG THE SOUND 327 

37.3 Guilford and passes on two sides of the green. 

At the corner opposite the green, now occupied 

by the Halleck hotel and stores, was the birthplace 

of the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck, and here he lived 

during the latter years of his life. 

In Guilford also was born W. H. H. ("Adirondack") 
Murray, and here the regicides were hidden, neither 
place being on the route. 

To visit the (free) historical museum owned by the 
State and lodged in one of the oldest houses (1639) in 
New England, turn square left, opposite the Halleck 
house, on Whitfield street. The Old Stone House, as it 
is called, is on the left, less than one-half mile down the 
street. For map of this section, see pages 16-17. 

The route now runs through a pleasant rolling 
country to 

45.8 Branford. Here, off the route, on Montowese 
street, is the site of the Russell Parsonage, where 
Yale College was formed. 

On the right, just beyond the business center 
of the town, is the Blackstone Memorial Library, 
said to be the finest building of its kind in Connect- 
icut. The library was given and endowed by 
Timothy B. Blackstone, formerly president of the 
Chicago & Alton railroad. The mural decorations 
are by Grover. 

48.3 The lower end of Lake Saltonstall, the scene 
of early college boat races, is seen on the right. 

49. The route now enters East Haven, passing the 

49.3 "Old Stone Church'* on the right. Here the 
road turns nearly north and at Farren avenue bears 
to the left, and curving around to the left 

50.8 Crosses the Quinnipiac River and enters 



328 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

53. jNew Haven (Pop. 133,600). Upon reaching 
Chapel street, just beyond the bridge, the route 
turns to the left and follows that street through 
one of the least attractive sections to the green at 
the center of the city. This is the largest city of 
the State, and was formerly one of the capitals. 
The central feature of the city is Yale College, 
many of the buildings of which adjoin the green 
on its western side. This was the early center of 
the city and still holds its preeminence. 

At the north of the green are the Public Library 
and Court House ; on the east side are the City Hall 
and Post Office ; and in the center of the green are 
three churches: Trinity, Centre and United, all 
built a hundred years ago. Centre Church is 
built over a portion of the old graveyard and con- 
tains a crypt in which are 140 tombstones, all 
bearing dates prior to 1780. Behind the church 
is the original gravestone and a more modern 
moniiment to John Dixwell, one of the regicide 
judges of Charles I. Facing the Green is Hotel 
Taft. 

Straight ahead on Chapel street is the route to New 
York, see next page. The route to Springfield runs north 
through the green. (See page 27.) 



ALONG THE SOUND 329 



New Haven to New York, 73 Miles 

Reverse of route described on pages 14-26 

o. t New Haven. The Green. Running west on Chapel 
street with the buildings of Yale College on the 
right, the route passes, opposite Vanderbilt Hall, the 
house of Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declaration 
of Independence and the first mayor of New Haven. 

0.4 At York street we turn to the left and run 
straight through to the hospital, where the route 
turns to the right on Davenport avenue. 

1.5 Just beyond the end of this avenue, the road 
crosses West River bridge which was the scene 
of a Revolutionary engagement in 1779, in which 
the Colonial forces were worsted. 

Ascending the hill beyond this bridge, the road 
continues straight across country to 

9. Milford. Bearing to the left under the railroad 
the route follows the trolley line. 

A little off the main road at the left is a Memorial 
bridge, which was erected to commemorate the 
250th anniversary of the settlement of the town, 
but which is also a memorial to many individuals 
whose names are inscribed upon various stones of 
which the bridge is built. 

Milford was one of the many hiding places of the 
regicides. Passing the village green, on the right, 
the road soon leaves the town. 

At the right is a boulder and flag-pole. The 
stone is inscribed "Liberty, 1766" and is now 
called Liberty Rock, but whether the Sons of 
Liberty, as is suggested, really met here, is uncertain. 



330 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

12.2 Crossing the Housatonic River, the road enters 
Stratford. This is a fine old town, with many- 
houses dating back to the time of the Revolution. 
The broad main street is shaded by rows of great 
elms which are the pride and glory of the town. 
13.6 Upon reaching the main street, the route turns 
to the left and follows the trolley line, soon turning 
to the right (13.9) on the road to 

t Bridgeport (Pop. 102,000). On the outskirts 
of the city near the Roman Catholic cemetery, 
the route bears to the right on Connecticut avenue 
as a shorter way of reaching the city proper-. 

This is one of the greatest manufacturing cities 
in New England in point of the diversity of its 
products if nothing more. There seems to be no 
line in which the city specializes, and few lines that 
are not represented. In addition to this, it is the 
home of Barnum's Circus. 

Upon crossing two bridges, the first over an arm 
of the harbor and the second over Pequonnock 
River, the route passes beneath the railroad at the 
station (17.2), and proceeding straight ahead across 
Main street, continues on Fairfield avenue. The 
Stratfield is at the right on Main street. 

17.8 At St. John's Episcopal Church, of stone, on 
the right, the route bears to the right. 

Here on the left, is a fountain to the memory 
of Nathaniel Wheeler, who was at the head of the 
Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machine Company, from 
its foundation to the time of his death. 

The street at the left leads to Seaside Park, where 
there is a monument to Ellas Howe, another sewing ma- 



ALONG THE SOUND 331 

chine pioneer, and to P. T. Barnum, whose residence dur- 
ing the later years of his life was near the park. 

As we continue beyond the church on Fairfield 
avenue, we pass, at the left, one of the several 
houses in which the great showman lived. The 
house is beyond Yale street, sets back from the 
road and has the figure of a sea-god before it. 

18.3 Just beyond this, the route bears to the left. 

19.2 After crossing beneath the railroad and passing 
the Burroughs Home for widows on the right and 
the Protestant Orphan Asylum on the left, the 
church spire at Black Rock village, is seen at the left. 
On the left, at the corner of Brewster street XX M 
is an old mile-stone bearing the inscription ^^ 

21. Fairfield. Upon entering this old town, the 
Post Road from which we have been separated 
since entering Stratford, comes in from the right. 
This town was the subject of a serious attack by 
the British in the war of the Revolution, when 218 
buildings were destroyed. 

Here, soon after the battle of Lexington, came 
Dorothy Quincy for her marriage to John Hancock, 
who was living here as a place of refuge from British 
displeasure. In front of the Town Hall, on the 
left, is a boulder monument commemorating the 
foundation of the town in 1639, and its burning by 
the British, July 8, 1779. 

21.9 On the corner as the route turns to the right 
with the trolley line, is a stone set "by David Bar- 
low, the cidevant farmer, 1791." On the reverse 
is the inscription: "Reset by H. J. Beers, July 4, 
I8S5." 



332 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

2 2.1 Near the railroad station, the route turns to 
the left, opposite the Memorial Library, and con- 
tinues with the trolley line to 

23.4 Southport. Here the road turns sharply to 
the right beneath the railroad. 

23.8 A short distance beyond this under-pass, after 
the road curves to the left, is a monument on the 

• left, marking the place where the Pequot War was 
ended in 1637. After the terrible blow inflicted 
upon the Indians at the Mystic hills beyond New 
London, the remnant of the savages fled along the 
shore of the Sound and were finally overtaken in 
this place which was then an almost impenetrable 
swamp and a stronghold of the Fairfield Indians. 
In the engagement which ensued, the remnant of 
the Pequot s was nearly annihilated. 

Over at the left is Green's Farms church and 
at the right by the roadside, Birge's Wells. 

27.5 Westport. Descending the grade through this 
village, the route passes on the right at the corner 
where a branch trolley line comes in, the Old Stage 
Tavern, which was an important relay house in 
coaching days, and still carries the appearance of 
an old inn. 

27.9 Immediately beyond, the Saugatuck River is 
crossed and the route ascends the hill straight ahead. 

30.5 Norwalk. Upon entering this town the route 
turns to the left, and passing the green, on the 
right, winds to the right down the hill. 

At the end of the green, the road straight ahead leads, a 
little beyond the corner, to the Connecticut Military School 
on left, and the Revolutionary Watch Tower, nearby. 



ALONG THE SOUND 333 

30.8 Part way down the hill, on the left, is what 
appears to be an old church with its adjacent church- 
yard, but which in reality is the Town Hall. 

31. At the foot of the hill the route crosses the Nor- 
walk River, passes the old Norwalk Hotel, a Revolu- 
tionary Inn, on the right and bears to the left with 
the main trolley line. 

On the right, at the flagpole, is the library. 

31.4 At an open triangle, the route turns to the 
right, leaves the trolley line, and, passing between 
a Memorial Fountain and the Armory, ascends 
the hill beyond. This fountain is a memorial to 
Nathan Hale, who is said to have embarked upon 
his secret service expedition to Long Island, from 
this town. On one side is the inscription: "The 
path of duty was the way to Glory," and on the 
other side is a bronze tablet * * given by the children 
of the town in loving memory of him whose last 
words were, 'I only regret that I have but one life 
to lose for my country.' " 

31.6 Ascending the hill, with Norwalk hospital 
on the left, the road runs straight across country to 

35.1 Darien. The square towered Congregational 
Church marks the scene of a disaster which befell 
the churchgoers on July 22, 1781, when all who 
were present at the service, including the minister, 
were taken captive by a party of tories and removed 
to Long Island. Here the road crosses under the 
railroad at the station and follows the trolley line 
across Noroton River to 

39.5 Stamford (Pop. 25,000). This is an important 



334 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

manufacturing place, among the products being 
the well-known Yale locks. 

The route avoids the business section of the city, 
running straight through with the City Hall on the 
left. Continuing with the trolley line the route crosses 
the Mianus River, at the village of the same name. 

44.4 t Greenwich. At the approach to this town, 
the route ascends the hill at the spot which is the 
scene of the famous ride of Gen. Israel Putnam in 
escaping from the British soldiers who had surprised 
him while absent from his forces. The hill from 
this approach presents a line of cliffs extending at 
right angles to the line of the road and topped by 
fine residences. The present road probably runs on 
about the line of the long flight of steps which was 
cut or built up the face of the cliff for the use of 
churchgoers. The roadway has been filled at the 
base of the cliffs and cut at the top so that the 
ascent is neither so steep nor so long as at the time 
of Putnam's ride. The old road ran along the top 
of the rocks and made a winding S-like descent which 
crossed the present road line. It is supposed that 
Putnam rode down a cow-path which cut off the 
loops of this S, and not in fact down the old line of 
steps. At the top of the cHffs on the right, is a 
monument in the little Putnam Hill Park, marking 
the spot "where, on Feb. 26, 1779, Gen. Israel 
Putnam, cut off from his soldiers and pursued by 
British cavalry, galloped down this rocky steep and 
escaped, daring to lead where not one of many hun- 
dred foes dared to follow. ' ' A modern flight of steps 
has been cut down the face of the cliff' at this point. 



ALONG THE SOUND 335 

Beyond the monument, on the right, is "Put- 
nam cottage,*' formerly the Knapp tavern, which 
is maintained as a Putnam Memorial, and is open 
to visitors at certain times. Although there seems 
to be some conflict of opinion as to the precise 
connection between Putnam and this house, it is 
safe to say that it had all the experiences of a 
Revolutionary tavern in a territory which was 
frequently visited by the soldiers of both armies. 

Opposite this "cottage" is the magnificent 
property of the Episcopal church. 

44.7 On the right, at the Soldiers' monument, is the 
Second Congregational church, of which Rev. W. 
H. H. Murray, of Adirondack fame, was once the 
pastor. Millbank, the entrance to which is opposite 
this church, was once the residence of "Boss" 
Tweed. 

45. Upon passing the Presbyterian church, on the 
right, the route keeps straight ahead on Putnam 
avenue, leaving the trolley line. 

47. Upon crossing Byram River, the route leaves 
New England and enters New York. 

48.1 Portchester (Pop. 12,800). At the lower end 
of the main street the route turns to the right, 
leaving the trolley line, and passes under the rail- 
road. 

Crossing over the railroad, the route enters 

49.7 Rye and keeps straight ahead, passing a flagpole 
on the right and crossing the street railway in a 
long diagonal. (See map, page 12.) 



336 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

Opposite the flagpole is the Municipal Hall, 
which was a tavern as early as 1731, and enter- 
tained Washington and Lafayette, Here also is 
the Library of brick, standing back from the road. 
In the time of the Revolution this was common or 
neutral territory which lay between the lines of the 
armies, after the British had taken New York. 

50. On the right is Christ^s (Episcopal) Church, 
the original organization of which dates from 1695. 
Among its valued possessions are a silver chalice 
and chalice cover presented by Queen Anne. 

50.6 On the right are the extensive grounds and 
large buildings of an Old Ladies* Home. 

51.5 On the left, with tall white pillars, is the mansion 
where John Jay, the statesman and jurist (Chief 
Justice of the U. S. Supreme Court 1 789-1 795), 
spent his boyhood. The original house was one 
room deep and eighty feet long. 

54. Mamaroneck. After passing through this vil- 
lage, on the left is the chimney of the ancient 
Disbrow house, which was erected in 1677. On 
the right is Heathcote Hill, now covered with new 
houses, but formerly the estate of Colonel Heathcote, 
one of whose daughters became the wife of James 
Fenimore Cooper. 

On one shoulder of the hill, overlooking the 
Sound, Cooper built the house in which he began 
his literary career. The scene of *'The Spy" is 
laid in this vicinity, Harvey Birch, the hero having 
been at one time concealed in the Disbrow house. 
Nothing remains that is closely connected with the 
life of the writer unless it be a little house in which 



ALONG THE SOUND 337 

he lived for a short time immediately after his 
marriage, and this, if standing, is so changed as 
to bear no resemblance to its original shape. 
5 5 . Larchmont was named from a row of larch trees 
which was planted to screen one of the early man- 
sions from the road. 

56.5 New Rochelle (Pop. 28,800). At the entrance 
to this city, in a fork of the roads, on the right, 
stands a monument "erected to indicate the Old 
Post Road." (See page 15.) 

56.7 The route does not pass through the center 
of the city, but turns to the left on Echo avenue 
and follows the shore road into Pelham Parkway. 

64.0 Bronx Park, one of the largest in Greater New 
York, contains the Zoological gardens, the Botanical 
gardens, and many points of historic interest, among 
which is the old Lorillard mansion. 

64.9 Upon reaching Grand boulevard, over at the 
right is the old Poe cottage. 

Here we turn to the left on a fine, wide parkway, 
and at the Franz Siegel statue (68.5) keep to the left. 

69.0 At the subway kiosk the route turns to the 
right on 149th street, Bronx, crosses the Harlem 
River and enters 145th street, Manhattan. 

69.6 At Seventh avenue the route turns to the left. 
At the end of the avenue the route enters 

71.3 Central Park, curves sharply to the right and 
follows the main winding driveway. At the Web- 
ster statue, the route turns to the left and bears to 
the right along the "Mall." 

74.2 The Plaza, Fifth avenue and 59th street. 



XVIII 
Western Entrances to New England 

(1) New York and Poughkeepsie to the Berkshires 

(2) Albany to Pittsfield and Burlington, 199 Miles 

(3) Lake Champlain to the White Hills 

While the route described in Chapter I carries 
perhaps a greater amount of automobile travel than 
any similar stretch in the United States,- there are 
many who, coming from the West, find it more to 
their fancy and convenience to enter New England 
at other points. The principal gateways as de- 
scribed very briefly in this chapter are Pough- 
keepsie, Albany and Buriington. 

Those from Southern New York, Northern New 
Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania, who wish to avoid 
the crowded thoroughfares of the metropolis, drive 
directly to Newburgh, cross the Hudson River by 
ferry to Beacon, and thence to Poughkeepsie. 

Westerners, who are coming every year in con- 
stantly increasing numbers use the Mohawk Valley 
route to Albany, from which point Pittsfield, the com- 
mercial center of the Berkshires, is reached in two hours. 

From upper New York and the great Northern 
Wilderness, as well as from Ontario, the logical 
entrance to New England is across Lake Champlain, 
traversing the lovely island route to Burlington. 

All of these routes are very fully covered in The Scenic 
Motorway, a copy of which will be sent gratis by the 
publisher upon request of any user of this volume. 

338 



WESTERN ENTRANCES 339 

(l) New York and Poughkeepsie to the Berkshires, 
151.8 Miles 

o.o New York. From the Plaza at 59th street and 
Fifth avenue, the route enters Central Park and 
keeping left of the ''Mali, " turns to the left at 
Webster statue, and next sharp right out of the 
park into 7 2d street. 

1.5 At the end of the street the route turns to the 
right and follows Riverside drive past the Soldiers' 
monument (3.) and Grant's Tomb (4.1), crosses the 
viaduct and finally enters Broadway (8.6), which it 
follows to 

13.6 t Yonkers. Bearing left across Getty square, the 
route continues on North Broadway. 

Over at the left of Getty square is the historic 
Phillipse Manor, where Washington wooed the 
pretty Mary without vSuccess. 

24.6 A road at the left leads to Sunnyside, former 
home of Washington Irving, his tomb being in 
Sleepy Hollow cemetery, passed upon leaving the 
interesting village of 

25.4 Tarrytown. Bearing to the left at a church, the 
route soon enters 

30.9 Ossining. Here is located the largest of the 
State penitentiaries known as Sing Sing. Keeping 
to the left of the monument we are soon favored 
with a view of the Hudson River at its widest part 
(3 3^ miles). Entering via Washington street, the 
route follows the trolley line to the center of 



340 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

42.2 Peekskill. Here the route curves left on North 
Division street and at a water trough bears to the 
left leaving the trolley line. 

47.0 Here a right fork puts one on the new State 
road which winds through the hills at a considerable 
distance back from the river, rejoining the old route 
through Cold Spring and Beacon at 

66.4 Wappinger's Falls. Here we pick up the 
trolley line which is followed all the way into 

74.1 fPoughkeepsie. At the end of Market street, 
the route turns to the right on Main street, with a 
trolley line. 

To visit Vassar College, turn right from Main street on 
Hamilton, and half left on Hooker avenue. 

74.9 On the left is the old DeWitt Clinton mansion. 

89.1 At a cross-road the route turns to the left and 
passes the Millbrook Inn, at the right. Just beyond 
it turns to the right across the railroad, and at the 
end of the road turns again to the right in front of 
"Daheim" lodge, guarding the entrance to the 
magnificent Dietrich estate. 

100.2 At Amenia, the route turns left and follows the 
macadam through Millerton (107.5) into 

1 13.2 fLakeville, Conn. Here is the famed Lake 
Wononscopomoc and several summer hotels. 

Turning to the left away from the railroad under- 
pass, and keeping to the left at the monument in 
Salisbury (114.8) the route shortly enters Massa- 
chusetts. 

124. We are now passing the first of the lower 



WESTERN ENTRANCES 341 

Berkshire Hills, Mt. Everett (2624 feet) being 
directly opposite, and Mt. Washington ahead, both 
at the left. 

127.7 After crossing a short iron bridge, the route 
turns to the right, merging with the route from 
Hudson, N. Y. Passing through a beautiful resi- 
dence district, we soon enter 

13 1 .6 t Great Barrington. The Berkshire Inn on the 
left is composed in part of the old home of William 
Culleji Bryant, who was town clerk here from 18 15 
to 1825. Opposite is the magnificent Hopkins- 
Searles mansion, costing upwards of $1,500,000. 
Farther up Main street, we pass the Congregational 
church and Hopkins memorial manse. 

132.3 Turning to the right at the end of Main street, 
the route follows the trolley to the foot of Monu- 
ment Mountain, which it ascends on a winding 
grade, descending into 

139-3 fStockbridge. Here we turn to the right 
around the Red Lion Inn, and take the first diagonal 
road to the left. 

The road straight ahead at the latter point goes 
to Lee and on to Springfield, see page 253. 

145.3 t At Lenox, the route turns to the right around 
the Curtis House and passing The Aspinwall, 
perched on a hill at the left, follows a straight 
road into 

15 1.8 fPittsfield. The Wendell Hotel. The road 
straight ahead on Main street leads toWilliamstown, 
page 280 and to Burlington, page 342. 



342 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

(2) Albany to Pittsfield, 36.4 Miles, and Burlington, 
199 Miles 

Not shown in reverse direction 

o.o fAlbany at the State Capitol. Descend Capitol 
Hill and at the foot turn right with a cross trolley 
line into Pearl street. Look sharp for a branch 
trolley line turning off to the left, which the route 
follows across a toll bridge over the Hudson River. 

i.o At the end of the bridge turn right and take the 
first left fork on the State road through East Green- 
bush (5.5) and Schodack Center (7.3), keeping left 
at the garage (8.9). The route keeps straight 
through Nassau, and at Brainard joins the route 
from Troy. 

25.7 New Lebanon. Turning left at the church, the 
route passes the little cemetery at the right where 
Tilden lies buried, and crossing the railroad, turns 
right up the long slope of Taconic Mountain. 

28.0 At the top, looking back, is a magnificent view 
of the Lebanons and Wyomanock Valley. A stone 
at the right (28.6) marks the New York-Massa- 
chusetts boundary. Descending by easier stages 
the route passes through 

32. Shaker Village, where a few remaining devotees 
of this once flourishing sect conduct a store. 

36.4 fAt Pittsfield we join the route coming up from 
the South, and turn to the left on Main street. 

57.8 t Williamstown. At the end of the street the 
route turns left and passes Williams College. 

This vicinity is more fully described on pages 280-2. 
For The Mohawk Trail to Greenfield, see page 282. 



WESTERN ENTRANCES 343 

58.2 Turning to the right around The Greylock, a 
well defined road is followed into Vermont. 

63. Pownal. Keeping to the right across a small 
bridge, the middle road past the hotel is followed up 
a long grade through Pownal Centre (65.6). 

68.1 Leaving the main road at a schoolhouse the 
route bears the the left and enters 

62.4 tOld Bennington. On the left is Walloomsac 
Inn built on the site of the old Catamount Tavern 
which was burned in 187 1. The Bennington battle 
monument is directly ahead. This commemorates 
a battle which was actually fought in the town of 
Hoosick, New York, on August 16, 1777- 

Our route turns off to the right before reaching 
the monument, and after passing through a covered 
bridge and over an iron bridge, turns to the right 
over a hill into South Shaftsbury (77-2). Continu- 
ing through Arlington, Mount Equinox (3,706 
feet) is seen towering on the left as the road ap- 
proaches 

95. t Manchester. Here the principal feature is The 
Equinox an ancient hostelry, which has been in one 
family for a hundred years. The Ek-wa-nok golf 
course is one of the best in New England. Keeping 
to the right at the library, the route crosses a small 
bridge at Manchester depot, and then keeps to the 
left at the next two forks, through the villages of 
East and North Dorset, Danby, and Wallingford. 
128.5 Turning to the right through a covered bridge, 
the route passes under a railroad, turns to the left 
at the end of the street, and bears to the right on 
Wales street. 



344 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

129.7 t Rutland. At the Berwick Hotel, the route 
turns to the right on Center street, and left with a 
trolley line on Main street. Passing through 
Pittsford (138.4) on a well defined road, we reach 

145.8 t Brandon. Curving to the left at the monu- 
ment, we pass the Brandon Inn at the right, and 
curve right at the monument to Stephen A. Doug- 
las near a church (146.4). 

1 53. 1 Curving right at the three-corners we shortly 
pass fLake Dunmore, one of Vermont's loveliest 
lakes. The route is easily followed into 

163.6 jMiddlebury. Entering the village, take the 
right fork and turn left at the Inn, and next right 
on Pleasant street, keeping to the right of the large 
church. Cross two railroads at New Haven 
junction (17 1.6). 

176.6 Vergennes, the oldest city in Vermont, is one 
of the smallest in the United States. Here Commo- 
dore MacDonough's fleet was fitted out for victory 
in the Battle of Lake Champlain, 18 14. 

At the end of School street, the route turns to the 
right and shortly passes under a railroad. 

Opposite Shelburne, and worth a visit, is the fine 
farm of Dr. Seward Webb. A little farther along is 
the entrance to Queen City Park, where the wonder- 
ful ' ' Red Rocks ' ' may be seen. 

198.2 The route bears slightly to the left on St. Paul 
street and quickly reaches the center of 

199. fBurlington. On the right is the Hotel Vermont, 
and on the left The Van Ness. Ahead is a small 
park in which the city buildings are located. 
Continued to The Balsams on next page. 



WESTERN ENTRANCES 345 

(3) Lake Champlain to the White Hills 

o.o Burlington. From The Vermont, run north on 
St. Paul street and turn to the right on Pearl street. 

2.2 After crossing an iron bridge into Winooski, the 
route turns to the right at the first four-corners, 
following the trolley line to Essex Junction. 

8.6 At the four-corners in Essex Center, the route 
turns to the right around a store, and follows the 
telephone line through Jericho and Cambridge into 

38.7 Johnson. At the water trough, where the route 
straight ahead leads to Hyde Park and St. Johns- 
bury, we turn to the left through Lowell (58.1) to 

66.2 Troy. Turning a half -right at the Inn the 
main traveled road is followed through picturesque 

78. Newport, at the foot of Lake Memphremagog. 
The route crosses a bridge, at once turns to the 
left and then right, taking a right fork at 81.5. 

82.4 At the end of the road in Derby, the route turns 
right through a covered bridge and at once left. 

88.8 At the old pump we take the fork to the left, the 
direct road ahead leading to St. Johnsbury. 

98.5 After making a sharp left and then a right turn, 
the route continues along the line of railroad, cross- 
ing the Connecticut River into 

1 1 6.3 North Stratford. Turning to the left on the 
main street, the route follows the Connecticut to 

1 29. 1 Colebrook. Here we turn to the right on 
Parsons street and follow the diminutive Mohawk 
River, entering the property of the Dixville Notch 
Corporation (136.6). 



346 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 

137.5 The right fork leads to the Fish Hatchery. 
On a hill at the left is the red-tiled roof of the 

Country Club House. On the left is Mt. Abenaki. 

139.2 Here the left fork is the entrance to The 
Balsams, a large hotel which, with its surrounding 
buildings, constitute a considerable settlement. 

Skirting now the shores of Lake Gloriette, origi- 
nally a beaver pond, the road approaches 

Dixville Notch, named for Col. Timothy Dix, 
grandfather of Ex-Governor Dix of New York. 
The lands in this vicinity were granted to Dix for 
his services during the Revolution. 

Entering the Notch, the elevation is 2,000 feet. 

On the right is Table Rock, and on the left is 
Mount Sanguinari, with a conspicuously projecting 
cliff called "The Buttress." 

The first road was built through the notch in 181 1 
from the receipts of a State lottery. In 1795 
Whittemore, agent for Dix, made a clearing (141. 9), 
and his remains lie in the cemetery at the left. 

Emerging into open country, the road now follows 
the level valley of Clear Stream to 

150.6 Errol. Here a turn to the right down the 
Androscoggin will bring us to Gorham, where, by 
consulting the map on pages 144-145, one may 
select any one of several ways to reach Bretton 
Woods, continuing the trip as fancy may dictate. 

Another popular trip is to continue east from Errol 
to Bethel and Naples, joining the route on page 172. 

From Dixville Notch one may return to Colebrook, and 
thence down the Connecticut through Groveton to 
Bretton Woods. Consult Finding-map inside front cover. 



INDEX 



Page 

Adams, Charles Francis 97, 300 

Adams, John .... 76, 96, 97, 300, 301 

Adams, John Quincy 96, 97. 

300, 301 

Adams, Samuel 233, 294 

Agamenticus, Mount. .127, 129, 135, 
137, 176, 183 

Alcott House 235, 292 

Alcott, Louisa M 235, 292 

Alden, John 94. 304 

Aldrich, T. B 128.185 

Allen, Lewis 54, 260 

Ames Estate 83, 312 

Ammonusuc Falls IS3. 163 

Ammonusuc River IS3. 163 

Anderson, S, J. & J. F IS4. 161 

Aquidneck, Island of 79, 314 

Arlington, Mass. . . .60, 199. 231, 296 

Arnold Arboretum 84, 299 

Arnold, Benedict 27, 191, 271 

Arnold, Gov. Benedict 78 

Arsenal, Springfield 51. 263 

Arthur's Seat 39. 225 

Ashland, N. H iiS, 201 

Ashuelot Mountains 43, 222 

Ashuelot River. 42, 221 

Ashuelot Village 42, 222 

Assabet River 235 , 290 

Athol, Mass 239, 287 

Avery, Capt. James 70, 321 

Avery House, Groton 70, 322 

Baker River 47, 167, 218 

Balch House 194 

Baldwinville, Mass 238, 288 

Barlow, David 23, 331 

Barnum. P. T 24, 33 1 

Barnum's Circus 24, 330 

Bartlett, N. H 157, 160 

Bartlett Haystack 160 

Basin, The 150, 165 

Bay Path 50, 255 

Bay Road 123, 192 

Beaman, Gameliel 236, 290 

Beaman Oak 236, 289 

Bearcamp Mountains 131, 180 

Belding, Aaron 41, 223 

Belknap Mountains. . .111, 130,202 

Bemis Family 53, 260 

Bemis, N. H 156, 160 

Bennington, Vt 343 

Berlin, Conn 31, 268 

Bernardston, Mass 40, 224 

Beverly, Mass 121, 193 

Biddeford, Me 137. I7S 

Bigelow, Col. Timothy 55, 259 

Billings, Josh 248, 28 1 

Bloody Brook 39. 226 

Blue Hills 83,311 

Boscawen, N. H 109, 20S 

Bradford History 93 

Bradford, Maj. John 93 

Bradford, William 93. 304 

Brandon, Vt 344 



Page 

Branford, Conn 63, 327 

Brattleboro, Vt 42, 222 

Breakfast Hill 127, 187 

Bretton Woods, N. H IS3. 161 

Bridge, John 231, 296 

Bridgeport, Conn 23. 330 

Bridgton, Me 142, 171 

Bristol, N. H 47, no, 218 

Bronx Park 14. 337 

Brookfield, Mass 53, 260 

Brown, John 58, 257 

Bryant, William Cullen 341 

Bull, Ephraim W 293 

Burlington, Vt 344 

Buzzard's Bay 89, 306 

Byram River 19, 335 

Cambridge, Mass 230, 297 

Campton, N. H 148 

Cannon Mountain 150, 165 

Canton, Mass 311 

Cape Cod 89. 305, 306 

Cape Cod Canal 89, 306 

Cathedral Woods 159 

Charlemont, Mass 244, 284 

Charlestown, R.I 74, 3 1 8 

Charter Oak 32. 268 

Chelsea, Mass 116, 197 

Cherry Mountain 152, 163 

Cherry Valley, Mass 54, 259 

Chester, Mass 253. 277 

Chicopee River 52, 262 

Chocorua Lake 132, 180 

Chocorua Mt 131, 132, 179. 180 

Christ's Church, Rye 18, 336 

Clinton, Conn 64, 32s 

Clinton, De Witt 340 

Cocheco Mills 120, 183 

Coffin, Joshua 190 

Coffin, Tristam 125 

Coggswell, Henry G 79. 3I4 

Cohasset, Mass 95. 302 

Colts Arms Mfg. Co 32, 267 

Conanicut Island 75. 3i6 

Conant, Roger 120, 194 

Concord, Mass 234, 292 

Concord, N. H 108, 20S 

Concord Grape 234, 293 

Connecticut River. . .36, 40. 66, 239. 
266, 287 

Constitution Hill 248, 281 

Conway, N. H 133. I79 

Cooper, J. Fenimore 18, 336 

"The Spy" 18, 336 

"Red Rover" 78, 316 

Cooper Tavern .... 60, 199. 231, 296 

Cotton Mill, First in America. .121, 

193 

Cradock House 60, 199 

Crawford, Abel 156, 160 

Crawford House 154, 161 

Crawford Mountain 156, 160 

Crawford Notch 152, 156, 160 

Cutler, Rev. Manasseh. . . .122, 192 

347 



348 



INDEX— Continued 



Page 

Danbury, N. H 47. 218 

Darien, Conn 21, 333 

Dauphin, The Lost 34, 265 

Day, Maj. Benj 254, 276 

Deerfield, Mass 39, 225 

Deerfield River 40, 225 

Dickens, Charles 213 

Diokenson, Nathaniel 42, 223 

Dighton, Mass 82, 313 

Dighton Rock 82, 313 

Disbrow House 18, 336 

Dix, Gen. John no, 205 

Dixville Notch, N. H 346 

Dixwell, John 29, 271 

Douglass, Stephen A 344 

Dover, N. H 120, 183 

Duncan Lake 131, 181 

Dunmore Lake 344 

Dustin, Hannah. . . 105, 109, 205, 212 
Duxbury, Mass 91, 94. 304 

East Hartford, Conn 32, 266 

East Rock 29, 269 

Eaton, Theophilus 29, 271 

Echo Lake (Eastern) 1 33. 1 79 

Echo Lake (Western) 132, 164 

Edwards, Rev. Jonathan 

Birthplace 33. 266 

At Northampton 38,227 

At Stockbridge 252, 278 

Egypt, Mass 95, 303 

Elephant's Head 154. 161 

Elkins, N. H 46,219 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo .... 235, 292 

Endicott's Rock 114, 202 

Epileptic Hospital 52, 261 

Fabyan's, N. H 153, 163 

Fairfield, Conn 23, 331 

Fairhaven, Mass 87, 308 

Fall River, Mass 79, 309, 313 

Battle of 82,314 

Falmouth 89 

Fitchburg, Mass 237, 289 

Florida, Mass 24s, 283 

Flume, The 150, 165 

Flume Mountain 149, 163 

Fore River Shipyards 96, 302 

Forts — Adams 76, 316 

Greble 75, 3i6 

Griswold 70, 322 

Hawkes 245, 283 

Rice 24s, 284 

Taylor 244, 284 

Trumbull 70, 322 

Warren 76 

Fort Hill 71,320 

Franconia, N. H. 152, 163 

Franconia Mountains. . 148, 163, 167 

Franconia Notch 150, 165 

Frankenstein Cliffs 156, 160 

Franklin, N. H no, 204 

Franklin. Benjamin 128, 185 

Frye, Capt., Escapes Indians 141, 173 
Fryeburg, Me 143, 170 

Game Preserve, Conn 65, 324 

Gardner, Mass 238, 288 



Page 

Gardner, Augustus P 123, 192 

Garrison Houses 58, 102, 206, 

216, 256 
Garrison, William Lloyd. . .125, 190 

General Electric Co 117, 197 

George's Mills 46, 219 

Gilsum, N. H 44, 221 

Gloucester 121 

Goddard, Luther 56, 258 

Golden Wedding House 97, 300 

Goodnow, Mary 56 

Goodyear, Stephen 29, 271 

Gorges, Sir Ferdinand 136, 177 

Gorham, N. H 346 

Gough, John B 56, 258 

Grant, U. S 33, 266 

Great Bay 120, 184 

Great Barrington, Mass 341 

Great Blue Hill 83 

Great Post Road 256 

Great Stone Face 164 

Greenfield, Mass. . .40, 225, 244, 286 

Greenwich, Conn 19, 334 

Grey Gables 88, 307 

Greylock, Mount 247, 281, 282 

Groton, Conn 70, 321 

Guilford, Conn 63, 327 

Hale, Nathan — Monument. .32, 267 

Memorial Fountain 21, 333 

Schoolhouse 67 

Halleck, Fitz- Greene 64, 327 

Hamilton, Gail 122, 192 

Hamilton, Mass 122, 192 

Hampton, N. H 126, 187 

Hampton Beach 126, 188 

Hampton Falls 126, 188 

Hancock, John i8s 

Birthplace 97, 30l 

At Fairfield 23, 331 

At Lexington 233, 294 

Hanging Hills 30, 269 

Hartford, Conn 31, 267 

Hart's Ledge 156, 160 

Harvard University 85. 98, 230, 

297, 299 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 

Birthplace 120, 19s 

Boyhood Home 141, 173 

At Concord 234. 292 

At Lenox 251, 279 

Haystack Monument 247, 282 

Heathcote Hill IS, 336 

Hingham, Mass 96, 302 

Hinsdale, N. H 42, 222 

Hoar, George F 55, 259 

Holderness, N. H 1 15, 201 

Holmes, Oliver Wendell 138, 230, 

249, 280, 297 

Holyoke, Mass 36, 228 

Holyoke, Mount 36, 227 

Hooksett Pinnacle 108, 207 

Hoosac Mountain 24s, 283 

Hoosic River 247, 282 

Hopper, The 248, 282 

Housatonic River 25, 248, 253, 

277, 330 
Howe, Elias 54. 260 



INDEX— Continued 



349 



Page 

Hudson River 339, 342 

Huntington, Mass 253, 277 

Ice, Early Shipments of.. . .122, 193 
Indian Attacks and Battles 

Deerfield 39. 226 

Pequot Hill, Mystic 71, 320 

Peqout at Southport 23, 332 

Turner's Falls 242, 286 

Wells. Me 137, 176 

Ipswich, Mass 123, 191 

Irving, Washington 339 

Jacob's Ladder 253, 277 

Jackson, N. H I57, IS9 

Jay, John 18, 336 

Jerusalem Road 95, 302 

Jockey Cap 143, 170 

Jones, John Paul 128, 187 

Kearsarge, Mt. (Northern) .133, 142 
Kearsarge, Mt. (South'n).46, 207,219 

Keene, N. H 43, 22 r 

Kemble, Fanny 252, 279 

Kenilworth Castle 37, 228 

Kennebunk, Me 137, 176 

Killingworth, Conn 64, 32 S 

Kingston, Mass 94. 304 

Kittery, Me 135, 177 

Kittredge, Walter 107, 210 

Laconia, N. H 114, 203 

Lafayette, General. ... 19, 32, 53. 67, 
128, i8s, 261, 266, 336 

Lafayette, Mount 150, 164 

Lakeville, Conn 340 

Lamentation, Mount 31, 268 

Lanesborough, Mass 248, 281 

Langdon, Gov., House of. . .128, 185 

Larchmont, N. Y IS.337 

Larcom, Lucy 104, 213 

Laurel Park 38, 226 

Lee, Mass 253, 277 

Leicester, Mass 54, 259 

Lenox, Mass 251, 279, 341 

Lempster Mountains 45, 220 

Leominster, Mass 236, 289 

Lexington, Mass 233, 294 

Lincoln, Abraham 95, 303 

Lincoln, Mordecai 95, 303 

Lind, Jenny 38, 226 

Livermore Falls 148, 167 

Longfellow, H. W 65, i39, 249, 

280,315 

Longmeadow. Mass 33, 265 

Long Lake, Me 142, 171 

Lovell, Capt. J ... 131, 143, 170, l8l 

Lovell's Pond 143, 170 

Lovell's River 132, 181 

Lowell, Mass 103, 104, 213 

Lynn, Mass 117, 196 

MacDonough, Com 344 

Madison, Conn 63, 326 

Magnolia I2I 

Magoun, Thacher 103, 215 

Main, Rev. Amos 130, 183 

Mamaroneck, N. Y 18, 336 

Manchester, N. H 107. 207 



Page 

Manchester, Vt 343 

Manomet, Mass 91, 305 

Marblehead, Mass 118 

Marion, Mass 87, 307 

Marlboro, Mass 58, 257 

Marshfield, Mass 94, 303 

Mattapoisett, Mass 87, 308 

May, Samuel 54, 259 

Maynard, Mass 235, 290 

McKinley Monument 34, 265 

McSparren, Rev. Dr 75. 317 

Medford, Mass. . . .61, 102, 199, 215 

Meredith, N. H 115, 201 

Meriden, Conn 30, 268 

Merrimack River. .104, no, 125, 204 

Meyer, George von L 122, 192 

Mile-stones and Guide-stones 

Bridgeport 23, 331 

E. Windsor 266 

Hamilton 192 

Longmeadow 34, 265 

Pembroke 207 

Shrewsbury 56, 258 

Springfield 51, 263 

Suncook 108, 207 

Wenham 122, 193 

West Brookfield 52, 261 

Milford, Conn 25, 329 

Millbank 19, 335 

Miller's Falls 239, 287 

Miller's River 239, 287 

Milton, N. H 130, 182 

Minot's Ledge Light 302 

Missions, Birthpl. of Foreign. 247, 282 

Mohawk Trail 243, 282 

Monroe Tavern 231, 292 

Moody, Rev, D. L 40, 41. 223 

Moulton, Gen. Jonathan. . .126, 188 

Mt. Equinox 343 

Mt. Everett 341 

Mt. Hermon Schools 40, 224 

Mt. Monadnock 43. 221 

Mt. Vernon House 68 

Murray, Rev. W. H. H 64, 33S 

Myopia Club 122, 192 

Mystic, Conn .71. 3^9 

Monuments and Memorials 

Aldrich, T. B 128,185 

Anderson, S. J. & J. F. . . 154. 161 

Avery 70, 32 1 

Baltimore Riot 104, 214 

Belcher Fountain 41, 224 

Belding, Aaron 41, 223 

Bemis Family S3. 260 

Bennington Battle 343 

Bigelow, Col. Timothy. . .55. 259 

Black.stone Library 63. 327 

Bloody Brook 39. 226 

Bridge, John 231, 296 

Channing, Wm. E 78, 3I5 

Charter Oak 32. 268 

Coggswell. Henry G 82,314 

Conant, Roger 119. I94 

Cotton Mill, First 121, 193 

Dickenson, Nathaniel 42, 223 

Dixwell, John 29, 271 

Douglas, Stephen A 344 

Edwards, Jonathan 252, 278 



350 



INDEX— Continued 



Page 

Father Matthew 119, 196 

Fenwick, Lady 66, 325 

Firemen's 68 

Forefathers 93, 304 

Goodnow 56 

Groton Battle 70, 322 

Hale, Nathan 21, 32, 267, 333 

Haystack 247, 282 

Hessian Camp. . .36, 228, 254, 275 

Hoar, George F 55, 259 

Holmes, O. W 230, 297 

Howe, Elias 54. 260 

Longfellow, Henry W. . . . 139, 175 

Main, Rev. Amos 130, 183 

Mason, Capt. John 71 

McKinley, President 34, 265 

Milford, Conn. Bridge. . . .25, 329 

Minute-man 233, 294 

Morgan Art Memorial. . . .32, 267 

Morgan, Charles 65,325 

Morgan, Miles 263 

Newbury 123, 191 

Parker, Capt. John 233, 294 

Paterson, Gen. John 251, 279 

Pequot War 22, 71, 320, 332 

Perry, Com. O. H 77, 315 

Perry, Com, M. C 78. 31S 

Peters, Hugh 122, 193 

Pierce, Franklin 109, 206 

Pierson, Abraham 65, 325 

Post Road 15, 337 

Puritan, The 51, 263 

Putnam, Gen. I.. 20, 117, 197, 335 

Regicides 29, 271 

Revere, Paul, Capture of . 234, 293 
Shay's Rebellion. .51, 83, 263, 312 

Siegel, Franz 14. 337 

Spanish War Soldiers 36, 228 

Standish, Myles 91. 304 

Stanton, Gen. Joseph 73. 3i9 

Stark. General 109, 206 

Stockbridge Indians 252, 278 

Sumner, Charles 230, 297 

Taylor, Charles A 104, 214 

Thornton, Matthew 106, 210 

Tilton Family iii. 203 

Washington, George 125, 190 

Weare, Meshach 126, 188 

Webster, Daniel. .14. 94. 109, 206, 
303. 337 

Weeden, Margaret 74, 318 

Wheeler, Nathaniel 24, 330 

Winthrop, John 68 

Yale College 65,325 

Nahant, Mass 117. 196, i97 

Nantasket Beach 95, 302 

Naples. Bay of 141, 171 

Narragansett Bay 74. 75, 3i6 

Narragansett Pier, R. 1 74, 317 

Nashua, N. H 106. 211 

Nashua River 106, 211 

Nat's Rock 141, 173 

Neddick, Cape 136, 177 

Neponset River 84, 98 

New Bedford 87. 308 

New Britain, Conn 31. 268 

Newbury, Mass 123, 191 



Page 

Newburyport, Mass 125, 190 

New Castle, N. H 127 

Newfound Lake 47, 218 

New Haven, Conn . .26, 270 

The Green 27, 271 

New Lebanon, N. Y 342 

New London, Conn 66,-322 

New London, N. H 46, 219 

Newport, R. 1 76, 315 

Newport, N. H 45, 220 

Newport, Vt 345 

New Rochelle, N. Y 15, 337 

New York City 14, 339 

North Adams, Mass 247. 282 

Northampton, Mass 37, 226 

North Conway, N. H 133, 159 

North Easton, Mass 312 

Northfield, Mass 41, 223 

Northfield Seminary 41, 223 

North Haven, Conn 30, 269 

North Wilbraham, Mass. . . .51. 262 
North Woodstock, N. H. . . 149. 166 
Norwalk, Conn 21,332 

Ogunquit, Me 137. 176 

Old Oaken Bucket 94, 303 

Old Orchard Beach 138 

Old Ship 96, 302 

Onset, Mass 88, 307 

Oraculum 33, 266 

Orange, Mass 239, 287 

Oread Seminary 55, 259 

Ossining, N. Y 339 

Ossipee, N. H 131, 181 

Ossipee Lake 131, 142, 181 

Ossipee Mountains 132, 180 

Ox-Bow of the Connecticut . . 37, 227 

Paine, Robert Treat 83, 312 

Palmer, Mass 52, 262 

Parker, Capt. John 233, 294 

Passaconaway 105, 212 

Passaconaway Mountain.. .114, 131 
Paths and Trails, See Roads 

Pawtucket Falls 104, 213 

Pease, Levi 56, 258 

Peekskill, N. Y 340 

Penacook, N. H 109, 205 

Pembroke, N. H 108, 207 

Pemigewasset River.. .110, 115, 164, 

201, 204 

Pequot Battles 22, 71, 320, 332 

Pequot Hill 71,320 

Perry, Com. O. H 74, 76, 31S, 3i8 

Perry, Com. M. C 78, 31S 

Phelps, Prof. Austin S3, 262 

Philip, King 38, 79, 226 

Phillipse Manor 339 

Pierce, Franklin 108, 109, 206 

Pittsfield, Mass 249, 280 

Plymouth, Mass 91 , 304 

Plymouth, N. H 47, i IS, 148, 

167, 201 

Poe Cottage 14, 337 

Poet's Seat 40, 224, 242, 286 

Point Judith 74, 318 

Poland Spring, Route. . 140, 141. 171 

Ponkapoag, Mass 84, 311 

Pontoosuc Lake 249, 280 



INDEX — Continued 



351 



Page 

Pool, The 150,165 

Portchester. N. Y I9. 335 

Portland, Me 138.173 

Portsmouth, N. H. 

Points of Interest in 128, 185 

Powder Mills 33. 235. 266, 290 

Pownal, Vt 343 

Presidential Range . . . . I33. i53. 161 

Profile, The 151. 164 

Putnam Cottage 20, 335 

Putnam, Gen. Israel 

At Greenwich 20, 334 

At Revere 116. I97 

Quaboag River 52. 261 

Quaker Hill 79.314 

Quarries — Cheshire, Mass 249 

Conway. N. H. .133. I43. i70. I79 

Fitchburg, Mass 237, 289 

Lee, Mass 253 

Quincy, Mass 98, 300 

Westerly, R.I 73.319 

Quequechan River . . 79. 86. 309. 3i3 

Quincy, Mass 96, 301 

Quincy, Dorothy— Birthplace.97. 301 

At Lexington 233, 294 

At Fairfield 23,331 

Quinnipiac River 30,62, 270,327 

Quinsigamond Lake 55. 258 

Rattlesnake Range I33. i43, I79 

Red Rocks 344 

Redstone, N. H. . .133. I43. 170. I79 

Regicides — At Guilford 64. 327 

At Milford 25,329 

At New Haven 29, 271 

Grave of 29,271 

Revere Beach, Mass 117. I97 

Revere, Paul • J 5 

Bells made by 33. 59. 256. 265 

His Ride 60.231 

His Capture 234. 293 

Revolution, Battles at 

Bennington 343 

Fall River 82,314 

Groton 70,322 

New Haven 25. 329 

Revere ii7, I97 

Roads, Paths and Trails 

Bay Path 50.255 

Bay Road 123. 192 

Connecticut Path 59. 256 

Mohawk Trail 243, 282 

Old Post Road IS. 256 

Rochester, N. H 130, 183 

Rogers. H. H 87.308 

RoUstone Hill 237, 289 

Rowley, Mass 123. I9i 

Russell, Mass 253, 277 

Rutland, Vt 344 

Rye, N. Y 18. 335 

Rye Beach. N. H 126, 187 

Saco. Me I37. I75 

Saco River I33. I37, I70. I75 

Salem, Mass 118, 120, 194. I9S 

Salisbury, Conn 340 

Salisbury. Mass. 126, 188 

Salisbury Beach 126 



Page 

Saltonstall Lake 63.327 

Samp Mortar 1 1 1. 204 

Sanbornville. N. H 130, 182 

Sandwich Mts 114. 131. 181. 203 

Saunderstown, R. I 75. 3I7 

Sawyer's River 156, 160 

Sawyer's Rock 156. 160 

Saybrook. Conn 65. 325 

Scarboro. Me 138. I75 

Scituate. Mass 95, 303 

Seabrook, N. H 126, 188 

Sebago Lake 140, 171 

Seccomb House. . . .61, 102, 199, 216 

Sedgwick, Catherine 252, 279 

Sedgwick, Charles 252, 279 

Shaker Villages. . . .33. 253. 266, 342 

Shaw, Henry W 248, 281 

Shay's Rebellion 278 

Springfield 51.263 

Taunton 83,312 

Shelburne Falls 244, 284 

Sherman, Roger 26, 329 

Shrewsbury, Mass 55, 257 

Siegel, Franz 14. 337 

Signers of Declaration of Inde- 
pendence 

John Hancock 23, 97, 233 

Robert Treat Paine 83,312 

Roger Sherman 26, 329 

Matthew Thornton 106, 210 

Smith College 37, 227 

Smith, Jonathan 248, 271 

Smithtown, N. H : 126, 188 

Songo River 141,171 

Southboro, Mass 58 

South Deerfield. Mass 38, 226 

South Easton, Mass 312 

Southport, Conn 22, 332 

South Windsor, Conn 32, 266 

Spencer, Mass 53. 260 

Springfield, Mass 34. 36. 51. 228, 

254. 263, 275 

Squam Lake 115. 201 

Squantum. Chief 1 11, 204 

Stamford, Conn 21, 333 

Standish, Myles 91,92,94,304 

Stanton, Gen. Joseph 73. 3i8 

Steerage Rock • 52 

Stockbridge, Mass. . . .252. 278,341 

Stockbridge Bowl 252, 279 

Stockbridge Indians 252, 278 

Stokes, Rev. Anson Phelps. .29, 270 

Stone Mill 78.315 

Stone Temple 96, 301 

Stonington, Conn 72,319 

Storrs, Rev. R. S 34.265 

Stratford, Conn 24, 330 

Stuart, Gilbert •• 3I7 

Stoughton. Mass 83.311 

Sudbury, Mass 58.256 

Sudbury River 58. 256 

Sugar Hill, N. H 152.163 

Sumner. Charles 230. 297 

Sunapee Lake 46. 219 

Sunapee Mountains 45. 219 

Suncook, N. H 108.207 

Sunset Tree 41.223 

Swampscott, Mass 118, 19O 



352 



INDEX— Continued 



Page 

Tarrytown, N. Y 339 

Taunton, Mass 83, 312 

Taverns — Arlington, Mass .231, 296 

Charlestown, R. 1 74. 3 18 

Concord, Mass 235, 292 

Greenwich, Conn 20, 335 

Lexington, Mass 231, 294 

Madison, Conn 64 

Marlboro, Mass 58, 257 

Norwalk, Conn 22, 333 

Pease 56,257 

Penacook, N. H 109, 205 

Pittsfield, Mass 249, 280 

Red Horse 58, 256 

Sudbury, Mass 58, 256 

Wayside Inn 58, 256 

West Brookfield, Mass. . . .53. 261 

Westport, Conn 22, 332 

Tecumseh, Mount 148, 167 

Templeton, Mass 238 

Tenting on the OldCampgr'd 107, 210 

Thackery, W. M 122, 193 

Thompson, Denman 43, 221 

Thornton, N. H 148. 166 

Thornton, Matthew 106, 210 

Tilden, Samuel J 342 

Tilton. N. H iii, 203 

Tin Peddlers 31. 268 

Tiverton, R. I 79. 3i4 

Tobacco Farms 33. 38, 226 

Tobey Mountain 38, 226 

Tom Mount 36,226.227 

Trowbridge, J. T 60, 200 

Tufts College 102, 198 

Tug-of-War Hill IS4. 161 

Turner's Falls, Mass 239, 286 

Turnpike, First in Mass 56. 257 

Tweed Estate 19. 335 

Tyng, Jonathan 105. 212 

Tyngsboro, Mass 105. 212 

Tyng's Island 105. 212 

Union. N. H 130. 182 

United Shoe Machy. Co 121, 194 

Universalist Creed Adopted. . 43, 222 

Vassar College 34° 

Vergennes, Vt 344 

"Victory" 55. 104. 214, 259 

Wachusett Mount.. 55. 237. 258. 288 

Wadsworth Atheneum 32, 267 

Wait Guide-Post SL 263 

Wakefield, N. H 130, 182 

Wakefield, R. 1 74. 3i8 

Wallingford, Conn 30, 269 

Waltham. Mass 60, 200 

Wannalancet 105. 212 

Ward, Gen. Artemus 56. 257 

Wareham, Mass 88, 307 

Warehouse Point, Conn 33, 266 

Warren, Mass 53. 261 

Washington, George 

At Beverly 121,193 

At Brookfield 53. 261 

At Hartford 32. 267 

At New Haven 37,271 

H 88 



Page 

Washington, George 

At New London 66 

At Palmer 52, 262 

At Portsmouth 128, 18 j 

At Rye 19, 336 

Washington Elms. .52, 231, 262, 296 

Washington, Lay Figure of. . 149, 165 

Washington, Mount. .130, 131, 133, 

140, 153 

Watch Hill, R. 1 73,319,321 

Watches, First American .... 56, 258 

Watersheds — Ashuelot 45, 220 

Central Mass 54, 237, 260 

Crawford 154, 161 

Franconia 152, 164 

Watuppa Ponds 79, 86, 309 

Waverly Oaks 60, 200 

Wayland, Mass 59, 256 

Wayside Inn 58, 256 

Webster, Daniel. . . 14. 94, no, 120, 
185,205,303.337,339 

Webster, Mount 154, 161 

Webster, Noah . . .• 29, 270 

Weeden, Margaret 74, 318 

Weirs, N. H lis, 202 

Wells, Me 137, 176 

Wenham, Mass 122, 193 

Wenham Lake 122, 193 

Wequetaquock Cove 73, 319 

Westerly, R. 1 73, 319 

Westfield, Mass 254, 275 

Westminster, Mass 238,288 

Weston, Mass 59. 256 

West Ossipee, N. H 132, 180 

Westport, Conn 22, 332 

Westport, N. H 43, 222 

West Swanzey. N. H 43, 221 

Whateley, Mass 38, 226 

Wheeler, Nathaniel 24, 330 

Whitefield. Rev. G .53, 125, 190, 261 

Whittier. J. G 126, 132, 180 

Wilbraham Mountains 51, 262 

Willard, Mount 154. 160 

Willey House 156, 160 

Williams College 247, 282 

Williams, Eleazer 34, 265 

Williamstown, Mass 247, 282 

Winchester, Mass 103, 215 

Winchester, N. H 42, 222 

Winnepesaukee Lake. .114. 201,202 

Winnepesaukee River no, 203 

Winnesquam Lake in, 203 

Winthrop, John, Jr 67 

Winthrop Mill 67 

Woburn, Mass 103, 215 

Wononscopomoc Lake 340 

Wood, Gen. Leonard 43, 222 

Woodworth, Samuel 94. 303 

Worcester, Mass 55.258 

Yale University— At Branford 63. 327 

At Clinton 64, 326 

At New Haven 26, 270 

At Saybrook 66. 325 

Yalesville, Conn 30 

York, Me 136, I77 

York Jail 136, I77 

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